When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A few more parts went on and welded bracket for Z bar. Sorted out the rods for 3 speed shifter, had to do some mods but seems like ll is good with that.
Wow looks great! Im glad you put that picture of the Z bar bracket on here, i needed to see that. I have collected most everything to convert my 442 to a 4 speed, might consider a Tremec 5 speed.
Gonna be a very cool wagon, keep up the good work, with pics please.
Thanks
Steve
Wow looks great! Im glad you put that picture of the Z bar bracket on here, i needed to see that. I have collected most everything to convert my 442 to a 4 speed, might consider a Tremec 5 speed.
Gonna be a very cool wagon, keep up the good work, with pics please.
Thanks
Steve
Thanks!! It wasn't hard to get the position of that z bar tab. With new engine mounts, trans mount and things in place, the tab pretty much fell into its own place.
Today I got the tailgate to open and glass moving up and down. I did not know what issues I may be facing with this as the window motor may have gone under when it was flooded. The wiring under the dash for the rear glass switch was molested some. I found the original cut wires and connected things up and everything works with this. Still need to check other electrical conditions. The rear glass channel is pretty rusty with some rot. It appears to have been chrome but little of that is left so I have to see if there is a source for this piece. With the tailgate operating I was able to get to the screw on the end of the upper moldings.
I ordered a dual exhaust from Classic Exhaust (listed on Ebay) for a 67 Cutlass 4dr 330. I noticed the Rt side pipe was a larger diameter than the left side and the flare seemed a little excessive where it mates to the manifold but I think it will be ok. The long header pipes were a bit too long putting the mufflers too far back to the rear. I removed about 3.5 inches from the center straights on each. Then the left over axle pipe would not connect to the muffler because of the shortened header pipe. I added the amount cut off to the over-axle pipe and all seems well. The rt. side was fine as far as length and the tailpipe appears to be fine just sneaking by the spare tire well. Nothing will be clamped tight until the bumper goes on so I can adjust the tailpipe length if needed. Over all the system fits well and perhaps the header pipe length issue was because it was a wagon.... I guess soon I will try to break in the engine. A tiny bit of rot was found on the tailgate that I have not repaired yet. Since a lot of the wiring connectors saw water I found they all needed attention. I have been busy with that cleaning connections.
The tailgate had some decent dents in it, some oil-canning and just a bit of rot down in the rt lower edge. Started working on that. Still searching for the tailgate glass channel, thought that would not be too difficult to find but it is.
You are doing a beautiful job. The car will be a show piece. I look forward to your updates.
Originally Posted by Oldsmaniac
...Nothing will be clamped tight until the bumper goes on so I can adjust the tailpipe length if needed...
Wagon exhaust usually exits to the side behind the rear wheels, otherwise the exhaust fumes come in the back window or through gaps in the tail-gate weatherstrip.
Wagon exhaust usually exits to the side behind the rear wheels, otherwise the exhaust fumes come in the back window or through gaps in the tail-gate weatherstrip.
Was not sure about that so Thanks! I will see how it goes with the fumes, I do like the rear exit look though so we shall see. I had an 84 wagon and you could not hardly drive with that back with the tailgate glass down because of the fumes.
And that's STILL a problem with today's manufacturers. The Sequoia had the Tundra exhaust, but the **** gas they run in the Persian Gulf made that stink, so we put the pipe out the side.
When I got the car I found the gas tank full of a water and gas mixture which I drained out, removed the tank, installed new sender, and re-installed. On Saturday I put about 5 gallons of gas in the tank, made things ready and attempted to break in the engine. It fired a few times but would stop running due to lack of fuel. I checked a few things and then found about a gallon of gas under the wagon! I guess condensation had formed in the tank causing some rot. It was not fun draining the fuel out of the tank. Ok, so I checked to see if a new tank is available but the only thing reproed is for the Chevelle wagon. I looked all over and among the few vendors selling this none listed it for anything but the Chevy. On Ebay I found a vendor selling the tank for 120 dollars with free shipping so I bought it. It came yesterday and it appears to be an exact match, I will know for sure when I install it this weekend! I also need to check the fuel line as the line was dry after my attempts to fire the engine.
Picked up some boxed rear lower control arms and anti sway bar at Carlisle so I put them on the wagon. It was found that the fuel line was plugged and also had a hole and was pretty rotted. I remade the rear half and connected it to the front original fuel line with a short piece of rubber fuel line.
The tailgate glass and channel arrived this week, its in really nice shape compared to mine which is unusable. Too bad I could not find one with tinted glass. I will use this one without swapping the glass, its such a chore to get the glass back in.... I put some gas in the tank and gave the engine a spin, it started right up but I did not run it long at 2000 RPM since I had no temperature gauge. After I get one installed I will do a proper break-in procedure.
Thanks, Eric yes they did a good job pulling that damage, now I got to weld up of all those holes and pull a bit here and there myself, all part of the project.
Some progress has taken place, I decided to install the new carpet and the seats because I was tight on space and the best place seemed to be where they belong. I just have to be careful with sanding dust and paint so nothing goes were its not supposed to. I got a few more run sessions on the 330 and Its ready for me to set the timing and dwell and curb idle. I have not attempted to put it in gear yet and try the clutch. I still have to bleed the brakes. These past few weekends I have been stripping off paint from the body, found some pin holes on one rocker. I also got one coat of color on the tailgate.
Bled the brakes last week, soon I will be able to see if it drives. I need to strip and sand the roof, a job better to be done outdoors. Spent some time working on the fenders. Both are in primer with a little sanding yet to be done. The hood will be next. I hope there isn't anything ugly under the paint.
Had a couple of days to work on the wagon, the hood needed rot repair and had a few dings and waves. I got it pretty good and put 3 coats of primer on it. Its almost ready for top coat and so are the fenders. A big milestone occurred today, I drove the wagon under power for the 1st time. The drive was only about 5ft. I wanted to clean around and under the wagon's bedroom. I also started sanding the roof. It quite the job and am learning why the term "longroof" was coined!
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; August 11th, 2019 at 02:39 PM.
Reason: spelling
Glad to say the spraying is done, now it is sand and buff time. I got the fenders done, so far I am happy with the results. I need to get a couple of repo Cutlass badges for the fenders... The roof will be next so I can mount the roof rack and get that where it belongs.
Man that looks good! Did you paint it outside? Very nice work, congratulations..
Thanks, I have no place to spray indoors so yes it was done outside. Lacquer dries to the touch in less than a minute so you can get by with painting outside. An occasional gnat will get stuck to the paint but they sand off usually without issue.
Thanks guys, yeah I like the look of lacquer as well over the base-clear process. Some go for 100% originality with hose clamps, crayon marks, etc but then have a plastic looking paint job.
Thanks guys, yeah I like the look of lacquer as well over the base-clear process. Some go for 100% originality with hose clamps, crayon marks, etc but then have a plastic looking paint job.
I agree! The over use of hi solid primer is removing the fine detail of the cars.
Your car with the gold lacquer highlights the body lines,
The metallic base coat looks closer to lacquer but in my opinion the lacquer looks is the best.
Lacquer is banned in BC were I live so I will have to go with a low gloss clear over silver metallic.
The wagon is looking great nice work!
Thanks for the contact info on your paint supplier.
From what I have been told it does not look like I can import lacquer. When I get closer to the paint process I will talk to customs.
I might have to import it 16 oz at a time LOL
Its kind of a joke the water born **** is nasty its transfer method just happens to be water.
January 6th, 2019, 07:25 PM
