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My first US car as well as my oldest car and a type of car I have no tools for. So lets get started, I bougth it sight unseen in Toronto Canada and around two weeks ago it showed up at my place in Germany.
I noticed right away the brakes are dead. Fast inspection showed the rear reservoir of the master cylinder was empty. A quick check on the lift and I saw the metal lines are rotten and the rubber lines are hard as a rock.
So I ordered American tools because most of the metric stuff won't work, as well as a bunch of new parts. brake lines, master cylinder, sway bar links, a bunch of filters and new door and trunk seals.
Yesterday we removed the lines wich broke like glas, as well as the master cylinder and proportion valve. Now I wait for the 9/16 and 7/16 inch fittings to make new lines in the engine bay. For the lines on the underbody I will use stainless steel braided lines wich is easier to install and last forever. The rubber lines in the front are also just a quick fix because the car will get disc brakes during winter.
Here are some photos of the Delta, I'm very happy with the purchase so far. Engine runs super smooth, nearly all the electric stuff works ecept for two functions of the power seats and the rear passenger window will not roll down from the driver control panel.
I expected much more rust but the floors, trunk and frame are solid. Doors are in good shape only the left rear quarter panel had some bad spots where the rear bumper sits. I also think the car was repainted at one point, its the original colour but it looks very dull. No idea if it's possible to polish it but I like the used look of it.
I hope I can take it for a first test drive next week after the fittings for the brake system have arrived.
Last edited by KAIDOautosport; August 5th, 2021 at 05:31 AM.
Car looks VERY clean underneath, I think you got a good car just needing the brake stuff done. The Turbo 400 trans is very strong and the 425 engine. You may want to upgrade to dual exhaust when the time comes for an exhaust system. The proper manifold on the drivers side is reproduced for dual exhaust. You will feel the increase in power. Looks like you have the high compression 2bbl carb engine, that's nice!
Nice find. FYI, as a drum brake car, it does NOT have a "proportioning valve". It has a distribution block that has no valve functions. Brake drums and shoes are difficult to find for these cars, as are some suspension and steering parts. Most vendors list Cutlass parts as fitting these full size cars. They do not.
I'm happy that I get the one with the three speed instead of the two speed. I think it will be a much more relaxed drive. Getting all the safety issues done is the first task. I have to pass German inspection to get a german registration.
It's a two barrel high comp version, the dual exhaust is high up on my to do list, as well as the disc brakes and a No Slip locker. I have no idea what wheels I will choose, maybe 15 maybe 18 or some 20 inch Detroit steel wheels. The suspension is also not final, maybe coilovers maybe airride. But first I want to drive it and enjoy it a little bit before winter.
The hardtop was mandatory. I first wanted a 1970 Cutlass Hardtop Coupe but it was sold before I can get my hands on, after that the Delta showed up and since it was a hardtop as well I finally get this one.
I also have some old documents with the car, the original invoice as well as some invoices till 1994. It still had the same name on it so I assume it was long in the first owners hand.
Last edited by KAIDOautosport; August 5th, 2021 at 06:30 AM.
Nice find. FYI, as a drum brake car, it does NOT have a "proportioning valve". It has a distribution block that has no valve functions. Brake drums and shoes are difficult to find for these cars, as are some suspension and steering parts. Most vendors list Cutlass parts as fitting these full size cars. They do not.
Oh thats a good info I thought of it too. Because the brakes are the same sice if I'm right so maybe I can leave it out and just use a T piece instead.
Regarding the suspension and streeing. I allready saw that options are very limited for these parts. Will parts from the 67 Impala B body fit? I know it has 5x4.75 instead of 5x5 bolt pattern but I will switch to the different PCD if necessary.
Last edited by KAIDOautosport; August 5th, 2021 at 06:32 AM.
Oh thats a good info I thought of it too. Because the brakes are the same sice if I'm right so maybe I can leave it out and just use a T piece instead.
Regarding the suspension and streeing. I allreday saw that options are very limited for these parts. Will parts from the 67 Impala B body fit? I know it has 5x4.75 instead of 5x5 bolt pattern but I will switch to the different PCD if necessary.
Nothing from the Chevy interchanges. Despite the fact that both are B-body platforms, the Olds and Chevy use completely different frames, suspension, steering, rear axle, and brakes. There are no parts in common.
Nothing from the Chevy interchanges. Despite the fact that both are B-body platforms, the Olds and Chevy use completely different frames, suspension, steering, rear axle, and brakes. There are no parts in common.
Thats not so good. That means more own ideas and more fabrication.
Haha, so it's not the best platform to modify. Anyway two friends of mine have several classic US cars so we can see what we can fit and what not. So far I still have some fun with the Delta and I always keep an eye open for a Cutlass anyway.
The car looks so original and clean I would not modify any part of it, leave it original. It is a good product, no modification needed.
Thats another option but as I said, first I will fix the stuff wich is broken then get it out on the road and see if I like it. After that I make the decission what I will do with it in the future.
I would strongly recommend not using that Scarebird kit. The factory 1969-70 disc brakes are larger than the ones in that Scarebird kit. They are available used.
Here are some good threads that should help the OP decide what brakes to use. Either way he's going to have do some disassembly and searching for parts.
I get the brakes done, I changed all the lines to stainless steel braided lines and changed the master cylinder as well. During the weekend I drove around 200miles and achieved appriximately11 MPG wich is not to bad for a 54 year old car with just fresh fluids and some 98 Octan gasoline.
I have some smaller issues wich I want to get done in the next step. The idle is a little bit rough but very little so new spark plugs may do the trick. The power door lock work from the the switches on the door panels but not with the key and not all electric windows work with all switches. Also the trunk release is not working. When I get the car the power lock worked and I hear the trunk opener operating. Is the system vacuum driven?
I'm very suprised how easy and flawless the car runs. It's very pleasant driving experience, the steering is the the most uncommon thing. I never drove a car with a vague and unconnected feeling steering like this but after a while I get used to it.
I'm very suprised how easy and flawless the car runs. It's very pleasant driving experience, the steering is the the most uncommon thing. I never drove a car with a vague and unconnected feeling steering like this but after a while I get used to it.
Try increasing the caster setting on your front end .
Get as much caster as possible while leaving your other settings ( camber , toe in , etc ) the same as factory .
In my opinion, the 5 spoke old school SS Cragars will look killer on this car.
2nd choice would be widened steel 15" rims with dog dish hub caps...sleeper mode.
Try increasing the caster setting on your front end .
Get as much caster as possible while leaving your other settings ( camber , toe in , etc ) the same as factory .
I will check this when I bring the car to the shop for alignment. My friend installed steering damper in his C10 pickup wich helped with the steering a lot.
Are there any alignment infos for this car online?
The Crager are a classic option for sure. Tonight we will try out some larger Torq Thrust wheels at my friends garage. There is a set of Weld Prostar for sale wich I also like. Maybe it's to much Muscle Car and less full size cruiser but I can imagine it would look nice.
I will check this when I bring the car to the shop for alignment. My friend installed steering damper in his C10 pickup wich helped with the steering a lot.
Are there any alignment infos for this car online?
Try increasing the caster setting on your front end .
Get as much caster as possible while leaving your other settings ( camber , toe in , etc ) the same as factory .
This is always a good thing for greater stability, but unfortunately I can tell you from personal experience that the stock front suspension on the 1967 full size cars has precious little adjustment available. I was able to get only about 3/4 of a degree of additional caster before running out of available adjustment, and even then there are so many shims at the rear upper control arm bolt that the arms nearly hit the exhaust manifolds.
The Crager are a classic option for sure. Tonight we will try out some larger Torq Thrust wheels at my friends garage. There is a set of Weld Prostar for sale wich I also like. Maybe it's to much Muscle Car and less full size cruiser but I can imagine it would look nice. [/QUOTE}
If those are Chevy wheels , you are going to be disappointed .
They are not going to bolt on . The Chevy wheels have a 4.75 in bolt circle pattern .
Your Oldsmobile has a 5 in bolt circle pattern .
Last edited by Charlie Jones; August 17th, 2021 at 07:54 AM.
We tried a set of 18 and 20 inch Torque Thrust wheels and today I ordered a set of these wheel. In this picture the car is lowered via Photoshop. I think with an airride system it will look pretty rad.
Last edited by KAIDOautosport; August 18th, 2021 at 05:35 AM.
The season is almoste done for 2021 and this is how it looks so far. Wheels are mounted and I just enjoyed the car for the last months. Today I get the info from Thornton that the B body manifolds are back in stock so I orderd them right away. I also changed the broken rear trunk lock and get new ignition cable, new spark plug, new distributor cap and finger. During the change of those parts I found out that two cylinders were interchanged. Not a big deal but we sort it out.
As soon as the monifolds arrive I will try to unscrew the old ones without breaking the bolts and start with the fabrication of the new dual exhaust. I will use Cherry Bomb Vortex muffler to hopefully achieve a nice V8 sound without drone. Not sure if I use 2.5 or 2.25 inch piping
Second task for the Winter is the air suspension and if I have the time and money I will swap the 2brl carburator for a 4brl Holley EFI. Disc brake conversion will be a topic for Winter 22/23.
Thats the situation with the new wheels and the Olds next to my other V8.
And this is how one of the wheels arrived, but they send me another one as a replacement, so I just lost one week.
Did you have to use those 5x4.75" to 5x5" adapters for those Torque Thrust wheels? If so, I'm surprised the car passed safety inspection in Germany.
Glad you got the Thornton dual exhaust manifold.
I thought the adapters were for the used wheels the OP had. I ASSUME (yeah, I know...) the new Torq Thrust wheels are the correct pattern. I got 5 x 5" TTOs for my Delta with no issues (though not in Germany).
Yes I used the adapter because the offset was not low enough even now the wheels have a lot of space to the arches. Also I want want them with the 4.75 PCD if I swap the brakes to discs I will maybe do it with something of the Chevy shelf and then I maybe swap to 4.75 anyway.
The car is not yet inspect but will be next month. It will be legalized with the OEM wheels.
Yes I used the adapter because the offset was not low enough even now the wheels have a lot of space to the arches. Also I want want them with the 4.75 PCD if I swap the brakes to discs I will maybe do it with something of the Chevy shelf and then I maybe swap to 4.75 anyway.
The car is not yet inspect but will be next month. It will be legalized with the OEM wheels.
Wrong bolt pattern and wrong offset. Sorry, two wrongs don't make a right. These heavy cars used a larger bolt pattern for a reason, and the correct disc swap also uses 5 x 5" wheels. Just sayin'
The bolt pattern I choosed because of the reasons I told before, maybe I swap to 5x4.75 disc brakes. Also the offset was the lowest possible there is no lower offset available. So it wasn't wrong it's just not possible to get them with a lower offset.
And if I ever want to sell the wheels a 5x4.75 is an easier to sell set. The Impala B body uses the 5x4.75 PCD as well and I think it is the same death trap as a Delta 88. My Lexus ISF uses 5x4.5 wich is even smaller.
Last edited by KAIDOautosport; October 19th, 2021 at 08:38 AM.
August 5th, 2021, 05:26 AM
That means more own ideas and more fabrication.
