Gassed - another MAW disaster?
September 6th, 2012, 08:01 AM
#121
Arrrggggg
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 322
Allan, I ordered another hige lot of stuff for my car as well as have a gas tank to go on. Your more than welcome to come on down to the states and help me toss this on! The tank that is since you did such a kick *** job with yours. 
Looks good man! It amazes me the things we do to these cars. I was just thinking that I remember just slapping my lift kit on my truck on, not wrapping parts with rags or styrofoam layers or anything like that when I installed it. My cutlass on the other hand it doesn't matter if I am changing the air filter I throw on 2 feet of padding on fenders. When I did my tubular controls arms evetything was wrapped for protection, I cleaned every old bolt by hand, sanded and painted. I took a great deal of time making sure it looked like gold when it was finally finished.
Nice to see others out there doing this stuff and going to great lenghts to make sure it looks nice and is done right when finished.
Looks good man! It amazes me the things we do to these cars. I was just thinking that I remember just slapping my lift kit on my truck on, not wrapping parts with rags or styrofoam layers or anything like that when I installed it. My cutlass on the other hand it doesn't matter if I am changing the air filter I throw on 2 feet of padding on fenders. When I did my tubular controls arms evetything was wrapped for protection, I cleaned every old bolt by hand, sanded and painted. I took a great deal of time making sure it looked like gold when it was finally finished.
Nice to see others out there doing this stuff and going to great lenghts to make sure it looks nice and is done right when finished.
September 6th, 2012, 08:41 AM
#122
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central IN
Posts: 1,226
I've used flat black with just a spritz of some dark silver mixed in. Perfect match for the oxide coating that has little micro sparkles in it.
September 6th, 2012, 08:50 AM
#123
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Northlake, IL
Posts: 633
I've also tried the paint mixing technique with certain parts. I was too cheap to send a wiper motor out for restoration, so I did it myself. I used silver with a quick mist of gold to try and replicate cad plating. It didn't really come close, but it doesn't look bad either.
September 6th, 2012, 10:39 AM
#125
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
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I used 2X6 lumber scraps on the jack stands because the stand bites into the wood, and the wood distributes the weight load better on the car's frame. My frame is all nicely painted and I don't like to put scratches or dents into it. Just a personal preference I guess. Kind of like when you go to a shop, the lift uses a wide surface to distribute the load and stabilize? Everyone has their preferences.
Of course I know that's not going to work on the axle
Of course I know that's not going to work on the axle
September 6th, 2012, 12:21 PM
#127
Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 17,615
Allan, My dear departed mother used to say, "If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when are you ever going to have time to go back and do it right."
Looks like you got the same message
Very nice work
Looks like you got the same message
Very nice work
September 6th, 2012, 01:25 PM
#128
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
P.S. If you don't want those dust covers you can send them to me
September 6th, 2012, 02:13 PM
#130
NOVICE car nut
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 3,123
September 6th, 2012, 06:42 PM
#131
Just an Olds Guy
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September 6th, 2012, 06:57 PM
#133
Just an Olds Guy
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All that glitters sometimes get taken apart
After reviewing some of Brians tips for parts restoration I decided the gas tank straps I did yesterday just wouldn't cut it. So out came the sander and in short order the tank straps were stripped down to base metal. I don't know much about galvanizing but I think it's just a surface that goes onto the steel? If that's the case I think I wore through that layer. I wet sanded both straps to an even smooth surface and use compressed air and a clean cloth to finish the drying. They looked really nice, but I was sure that if I put them on the car like that, they would rust pretty fast.
Solution? I went and bought 2 cans of 'stuff'. The first was a can of clear. The second was this product from duplicolor. It's supposed to create the effect of galvanizing on bright metal parts. I figured it was worth a shot. Didn't notice till just now the pic includes the reserved parking for my Dad. I bought that sign many years ago and put it on the wall beside the car in memory of him. I think he would approve.
2 coats of 'galvanizing' finish later they looked like this:
I know that looking at the picture it appears they are too dark, but they aren't really. There is a bit of tinting, but the overall appearance is translucent and you can see the metal below the finish. When it was fully cured this afternoon, the surface had changed from slightly gloss to a beautiful satin look.
Solution? I went and bought 2 cans of 'stuff'. The first was a can of clear. The second was this product from duplicolor. It's supposed to create the effect of galvanizing on bright metal parts. I figured it was worth a shot. Didn't notice till just now the pic includes the reserved parking for my Dad. I bought that sign many years ago and put it on the wall beside the car in memory of him. I think he would approve.
2 coats of 'galvanizing' finish later they looked like this:
I know that looking at the picture it appears they are too dark, but they aren't really. There is a bit of tinting, but the overall appearance is translucent and you can see the metal below the finish. When it was fully cured this afternoon, the surface had changed from slightly gloss to a beautiful satin look.
September 6th, 2012, 07:23 PM
#135
Just an Olds Guy
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Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
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Don't sweat the small stuff? Heck it's ALL small stuff now
On to the back up lights. When I took them off I thought they would clean up easily. Sure, if you count easily as over 2 hours per assembly.
First thing was to remove the pigtail. It pops through from the backside. Only thing you have to do is remove the spade connector and it all comes through the front of the assembly.
Next I took the assemblies and doused them with the magic elixir for about 20 minutes. Any of you figured out what it is yet??
Then I sprayed it with zep degreaser and scrubbed with a brush. Rinse and it comes out looking like the pod in the bottom of the first pic. Rusty scaly looking isn't it?
It took 3 different size wire wheels and lots of patience and perseverance to get these clean. The upper picture shows after the first go with a large general purpose wheel disc. The bulb sockets only needed a minor amount of polishing to look like new.
Round 2 and 3
Smaller wheel discs and careful manipulation got them looking like this. I was a little surprised. They are the same part number. Here I thought there would be one for left and one for right like on the front signal lights. Nope! These are the real deal though - you can see plainly they are 'Made in USA'
The inside of the housings were really hard to get but overall they're ok. I stuffed the well of the housings with shop rags to keep the 'elixir' from dissolving the good paint in there. I used it on the inside primarily to clean up the sticky residue from around the gasket. Yes, these gaskets are silicone rubber - NOT foam. Anyway the feathering was good enough to proceed to paint.
First step - tape off the lamp socket. They look purty don't they? I was SOOO tempted to use the galvanized look again, but decided against. Notice also the tag light assembly ready for paint. That sucker is rough. It looks somewhat better in the pic than it really is, but it was quite pitted and lots of surface rust. That was an easy hour worth of cleaning just to get to this stage. Also note the pigtail removed for more thorough job in cleaning/painting.
The finished paint will be on the next post. I wanted to show the effect of the magic 'elixir' on the silicone rubber parts that were OEM on the car. Last year when I restored my signal lamps, I put aftermarket gaskets between the housing and lens because this gasket was ugly - crusted with grease/dirt. The more I tried to clean it (even soaked it in bleach) the dirtier it got. So I just stored it till now. With about 20 minutes soak and gentle scrubbing it came from a dark pewter gray to this
I like the results a LOT. So much so that I'll put this one back in the car and take out the after markets. The other reason I like this result is the backup light gaskets are the same material and need a real cleaning. Around the edges they are black from dirt and crud.
First thing was to remove the pigtail. It pops through from the backside. Only thing you have to do is remove the spade connector and it all comes through the front of the assembly.
Next I took the assemblies and doused them with the magic elixir for about 20 minutes. Any of you figured out what it is yet??
Then I sprayed it with zep degreaser and scrubbed with a brush. Rinse and it comes out looking like the pod in the bottom of the first pic. Rusty scaly looking isn't it?It took 3 different size wire wheels and lots of patience and perseverance to get these clean. The upper picture shows after the first go with a large general purpose wheel disc. The bulb sockets only needed a minor amount of polishing to look like new.
Round 2 and 3
Smaller wheel discs and careful manipulation got them looking like this. I was a little surprised. They are the same part number. Here I thought there would be one for left and one for right like on the front signal lights. Nope! These are the real deal though - you can see plainly they are 'Made in USA'
The inside of the housings were really hard to get but overall they're ok. I stuffed the well of the housings with shop rags to keep the 'elixir' from dissolving the good paint in there. I used it on the inside primarily to clean up the sticky residue from around the gasket. Yes, these gaskets are silicone rubber - NOT foam. Anyway the feathering was good enough to proceed to paint.
First step - tape off the lamp socket. They look purty don't they? I was SOOO tempted to use the galvanized look again, but decided against. Notice also the tag light assembly ready for paint. That sucker is rough. It looks somewhat better in the pic than it really is, but it was quite pitted and lots of surface rust. That was an easy hour worth of cleaning just to get to this stage. Also note the pigtail removed for more thorough job in cleaning/painting.
The finished paint will be on the next post. I wanted to show the effect of the magic 'elixir' on the silicone rubber parts that were OEM on the car. Last year when I restored my signal lamps, I put aftermarket gaskets between the housing and lens because this gasket was ugly - crusted with grease/dirt. The more I tried to clean it (even soaked it in bleach) the dirtier it got. So I just stored it till now. With about 20 minutes soak and gentle scrubbing it came from a dark pewter gray to this
I like the results a LOT. So much so that I'll put this one back in the car and take out the after markets. The other reason I like this result is the backup light gaskets are the same material and need a real cleaning. Around the edges they are black from dirt and crud.
?
September 6th, 2012, 07:39 PM
#139
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
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I'm happy with these
As promised, here are the pics of the back up light housings all painted. The backs are done in cast, which dries very quickly.
15 minutes after painting the back I was able to tape off the sides and prep for white. You have to remember to tape the holes for the lens screws and the hole beside the bumper mounting tab or the white will venturi out onto that nice cast you just did. Prep and anticipation is everything. I think I will spray the back side with some clear to protect that electrical socket finish.
When the pigtail goes back in, this will look like new. I conditioned the pigtail, rinsed it with electrical contact cleaner and air dried it. Looks like fresh off the shelf.
For the interior of the housings I used Krylon white. I found that last year you shoot a light coat, wait 30 minutes for tack then shoot the finish coat. It takes about 2 or 3 days to fully cure. When it does it sucks down and bonds tight to the metal. But for now it looks like this. Not in a hurry so I'll wait the 3 days, install the cleaned up gaskets, lenses and show you the finished assembly then. The shadows in the garage don't do this justice. It is fully painted and brilliant white.
The tag light has some minor pitting on it, but it's ok. Way better than what I started with. The plastic lens is looking a little yellowed so I might have to experiment with some of that new headlight restoring product on it.
Well that rusty old locking ring from the fuel tank sender looked like it could be salvaged. Spend about 1/2 hour getting it cleaned up. Ended up looking like this - pretty close to the new one from Spectra.
15 minutes after painting the back I was able to tape off the sides and prep for white. You have to remember to tape the holes for the lens screws and the hole beside the bumper mounting tab or the white will venturi out onto that nice cast you just did. Prep and anticipation is everything. I think I will spray the back side with some clear to protect that electrical socket finish.
When the pigtail goes back in, this will look like new. I conditioned the pigtail, rinsed it with electrical contact cleaner and air dried it. Looks like fresh off the shelf.
For the interior of the housings I used Krylon white. I found that last year you shoot a light coat, wait 30 minutes for tack then shoot the finish coat. It takes about 2 or 3 days to fully cure. When it does it sucks down and bonds tight to the metal. But for now it looks like this. Not in a hurry so I'll wait the 3 days, install the cleaned up gaskets, lenses and show you the finished assembly then. The shadows in the garage don't do this justice. It is fully painted and brilliant white.
The tag light has some minor pitting on it, but it's ok. Way better than what I started with. The plastic lens is looking a little yellowed so I might have to experiment with some of that new headlight restoring product on it.
Well that rusty old locking ring from the fuel tank sender looked like it could be salvaged. Spend about 1/2 hour getting it cleaned up. Ended up looking like this - pretty close to the new one from Spectra.
September 6th, 2012, 07:51 PM
#140
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Close to the end of another long day
Still have the tail light pods to do, and all the bolts/fasteners but I thought I'd finish off the day with the rock guards for the tail lamps. They are actually pretty flimsy things. Lightweight roll steel cut/punched to shape. They even have an 'idiot proof' sign on them that indicates which end is the top. Duhhhh
Anyway, these I'm not too concerned about. I put on a fresh 100 grit sandpaper wheel and took the sander to them. So much fun with those stupid inside right angles.
This is just before final sanding by hand.
About 15 minutes later they were ready for paint. So I figured time to git r' done. Graeme came home from college just as I was sanding. He's not very independent at cooking so I knew my day was going to shut down right after I got these painted. I'm thinking fresh garden beans, breaded pork cutlets with hot sauce on them and McCains curly fries. We all like them. Couldn't be complete without a tomato and cucumber salad! But I digress..... sorry bout dat!
I haven't eaten since 0815 this mawnin.
This is what the stone guards ended up looking like. I can live with that. Wait till you see all this stuff installed on that new bumper waiting for it!!! I'm stoked
Mo stuff tomorrow!
Anyway, these I'm not too concerned about. I put on a fresh 100 grit sandpaper wheel and took the sander to them. So much fun with those stupid inside right angles.
This is just before final sanding by hand.About 15 minutes later they were ready for paint. So I figured time to git r' done. Graeme came home from college just as I was sanding. He's not very independent at cooking so I knew my day was going to shut down right after I got these painted. I'm thinking fresh garden beans, breaded pork cutlets with hot sauce on them and McCains curly fries. We all like them. Couldn't be complete without a tomato and cucumber salad! But I digress..... sorry bout dat!
I haven't eaten since 0815 this mawnin. This is what the stone guards ended up looking like. I can live with that. Wait till you see all this stuff installed on that new bumper waiting for it!!! I'm stoked
Mo stuff tomorrow!
September 6th, 2012, 08:06 PM
#141
Just an Olds Guy
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Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
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Yes, my Dad was a Doctor. I named my son in honor of him. Dad was a well respected GP when I was young, then later specialized in Anaesthesia for the last 25 years of his life, and became one of the 'go to guys' in his profession. No I never wanted to be a Dr. in his footsteps, but I still miss him. I was on holidays in Utah when he went into a coma from his cancer. It happened very fast. When I got home I never got a chance to say goodbye and thank him for all the things we had shared and done. I know he'd be proud of what's being done to this car. Funny, even though he passed 33 years ago, I feel a bond like he's watching me do all this. God, I wish he could materialize out of thin air for a couple of hours so we could just talk and I could give him a hug and tell him I love him.
September 6th, 2012, 09:00 PM
#142
Once Olds Always Olds
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: New Matamoras, Ohio
Posts: 1,202
Allen, The project is really looking great!!!
I am sure you father would be really proud of you. My father has been gone 14 years now, I definately can relate many times I would like the chance just to talk to him.
I am sure you father would be really proud of you. My father has been gone 14 years now, I definately can relate many times I would like the chance just to talk to him.
September 6th, 2012, 10:17 PM
#143
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 489
....I know he'd be proud of what's being done to this car. Funny, even though he passed 33 years ago, I feel a bond like he's watching me do all this. God, I wish he could materialize out of thin air for a couple of hours so we could just talk and I could give him a hug and tell him I love him.
I share a lot of those feelings when it comes to my 56, so I kind of relate.
September 6th, 2012, 10:44 PM
#144
NOVICE car nut
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 3,123
Yes, my Dad was a Doctor. I named my son in honor of him. Dad was a well respected GP when I was young, then later specialized in Anaesthesia for the last 25 years of his life, and became one of the 'go to guys' in his profession. No I never wanted to be a Dr. in his footsteps, but I still miss him. I was on holidays in Utah when he went into a coma from his cancer. It happened very fast. When I got home I never got a chance to say goodbye and thank him for all the things we had shared and done. I know he'd be proud of what's being done to this car. Funny, even though he passed 33 years ago, I feel a bond like he's watching me do all this. God, I wish he could materialize out of thin air for a couple of hours so we could just talk and I could give him a hug and tell him I love him.
You are doing a bang up job on that car , which makes me proud !
September 7th, 2012, 04:35 AM
#145
Sammy70 455 Supreme
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Port Perry, Ontario
Posts: 3,069
My home is your home Allan, just let me know when you are coming and I will shine up a Cutlass or two so you will have one to drive around
I feel your pain.I have a feeling that your Dad would be mighty proud of you!
Ted
I feel your pain.I have a feeling that your Dad would be mighty proud of you!
Ted
September 7th, 2012, 07:27 AM
#147
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
Yes, my Dad was a Doctor. I named my son in honor of him. Dad was a well respected GP when I was young, then later specialized in Anaesthesia for the last 25 years of his life, and became one of the 'go to guys' in his profession. No I never wanted to be a Dr. in his footsteps, but I still miss him. I was on holidays in Utah when he went into a coma from his cancer. It happened very fast. When I got home I never got a chance to say goodbye and thank him for all the things we had shared and done. I know he'd be proud of what's being done to this car. Funny, even though he passed 33 years ago, I feel a bond like he's watching me do all this. God, I wish he could materialize out of thin air for a couple of hours so we could just talk and I could give him a hug and tell him I love him.
September 7th, 2012, 08:00 AM
#148
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Troy, Highwayman, Ted and Brian. Thank you for the kind sentiments. My respects to you also. Not easy to lose someone who brought you into the world and had a big impact on shaping your life.
Yes, and yours too Henry. You have way more skills and equipment (and space) than I do! Your car is looking darn amazing too!
Well ok there NANCY! So you know the secret Yeah, it can sting at times but dang it works great! Owe that one to my Master, The Dark Lord. You know who that is don't you?
Yes, and yours too Henry. You have way more skills and equipment (and space) than I do! Your car is looking darn amazing too!
Yeah, it can sting at times but dang it works great! Owe that one to my Master, The Dark Lord. You know who that is don't you?
September 7th, 2012, 05:56 PM
#150
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You're not supposed to make a girl cry.
I DID get a quote on getting the limited slip and 3:23's installed. Jim Mitsche already overhauled the unit and pressed on the bearings. The local shop wants 450.00 to install and shim. Thought I MAW have the driveshaft checked for balance at the same time. They can take off the OEM universal. IIRC it has that plastic seal that has to be heated with OA to get hot enough to gush out.
I'm not feeling well today, so nothing got done. Hope this passes soon.
September 8th, 2012, 02:28 AM
#151
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
I hope you feel better Allan! I'm sorry you didn't get to work on your car today...but I did...and I'm DONE
Well mostly, I have to get it aligned or have Joe come over and help me align it...either will do. But it needs it bad! I can't believe changing the springs out dropped the front end 2" or more...it sits so much better than it used to.
Sorry, I'm bragging...I hope you feel better soon.
P.S. I'm done
Well mostly, I have to get it aligned or have Joe come over and help me align it...either will do. But it needs it bad! I can't believe changing the springs out dropped the front end 2" or more...it sits so much better than it used to.
Sorry, I'm bragging...I hope you feel better soon.
P.S. I'm done
September 8th, 2012, 08:37 PM
#154
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
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The Salt Mine
Didn't get started till early afternoon because I had some pork ribs on the grill doing a slow cook. 2 1/2 hours in a foil boat, then another 45 minutes on low heat smothered with BBQ sauce. So tender they fell apart with a fork! A really nice late lunch.
Then it was back to the salt mine. I really don't like having things disorganized and after seeing how Steve's garage is so tidy, I was embarrassed. Normally I don't let my work area get very dirty or disorganized. But with all the parts cleaning and what not, it was definitely in need of help. So I spent about 30 minutes tidying up and vacuuming EVERYTHING! Shop vac's are worth their weight in gold!
I'm at the stage where the next major thing will be pulling the rear differential. I sourced out the cost to have the open 2:73 gears changed to limited slip 3:23s. I have the parts ready, just need to get the carrier installed and shimmed. Local price was 450.00 Don't know it that's normal, high, or low.
One of the things that will go on is this nice W27 cover
3:23 ring/ pinion/ races and bolts that I got from monzaz
Also got a series 2 limited slip reconditioned by him. Has the bearings already pressed on. Sorry, I forgot to take a pic today. But rest assured it will show up. Everything that's getting done to this car gets photographed
Rear sway bar (shims and bolts still in the shed - got to dig them out)
Almost forgot! This is the pic I promised you a few days back and forgot about till today. This is the patch that was put onto the old tank when it started leaking. When I went to check on it, there were no more fumes so I sealed it with duct tape to keep insects and rodents out. Not sure what to do with it.
Then it was back to the salt mine. I really don't like having things disorganized and after seeing how Steve's garage is so tidy, I was embarrassed. Normally I don't let my work area get very dirty or disorganized. But with all the parts cleaning and what not, it was definitely in need of help. So I spent about 30 minutes tidying up and vacuuming EVERYTHING! Shop vac's are worth their weight in gold!
I'm at the stage where the next major thing will be pulling the rear differential. I sourced out the cost to have the open 2:73 gears changed to limited slip 3:23s. I have the parts ready, just need to get the carrier installed and shimmed. Local price was 450.00 Don't know it that's normal, high, or low.
One of the things that will go on is this nice W27 cover
3:23 ring/ pinion/ races and bolts that I got from monzaz
Also got a series 2 limited slip reconditioned by him. Has the bearings already pressed on. Sorry, I forgot to take a pic today. But rest assured it will show up. Everything that's getting done to this car gets photographed
Rear sway bar (shims and bolts still in the shed - got to dig them out)
Almost forgot! This is the pic I promised you a few days back and forgot about till today. This is the patch that was put onto the old tank when it started leaking. When I went to check on it, there were no more fumes so I sealed it with duct tape to keep insects and rodents out. Not sure what to do with it.
September 8th, 2012, 08:54 PM
#157
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
FE2 Body braces
When the rear differential is out, I will also be upgrading the suspension to FE2. One of the components is the body braces. I bought these from Eric (jensenracing77) about 3 years ago. He told me they were in rough shape but I didn't pay a huge amount for them, and I think they will end up looking almost like new when I'm done with them. They started out like this:
Other side. You can see how bad the rust is.
Out came the grinder, put on a fresh disc and away we go. Sparks flying everywhere! Crud flying everywhere! Good thing I wear full body protection, gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection and a hat! This is a tricky bit of manoeuvring grinding while the part is clamped in the vice. Took about 45 minutes to get them both to this stage. The lighting is kind of crappy, but 95% of the heavy rust is gone. Only small pockets of pitting left. They won't affect the overall integrity of the brace.
Next step was to bath them in Metal Ready. After 40 minutes I rinsed them with plenty of fresh water and air dried them. They are now phosphate coated and ready for the next step. According to POR the Metal Ready will also convert the rust to a phosphate base ready for paint.
Now that most of the ugliness is gone, I plan to smooth out the pitting with some glazing putty, then sand the whole assembly smooth, prime and paint black. That will wait till at least tomorrow.
Other side. You can see how bad the rust is.
Out came the grinder, put on a fresh disc and away we go. Sparks flying everywhere! Crud flying everywhere! Good thing I wear full body protection, gloves, safety glasses, hearing protection and a hat! This is a tricky bit of manoeuvring grinding while the part is clamped in the vice. Took about 45 minutes to get them both to this stage. The lighting is kind of crappy, but 95% of the heavy rust is gone. Only small pockets of pitting left. They won't affect the overall integrity of the brace.
Next step was to bath them in Metal Ready. After 40 minutes I rinsed them with plenty of fresh water and air dried them. They are now phosphate coated and ready for the next step. According to POR the Metal Ready will also convert the rust to a phosphate base ready for paint.
Now that most of the ugliness is gone, I plan to smooth out the pitting with some glazing putty, then sand the whole assembly smooth, prime and paint black. That will wait till at least tomorrow.
September 8th, 2012, 09:00 PM
#160
Just an Olds Guy
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
If the 72 you bought has 3:08s in it you're on easy street Ted. The 2:73 I have is the utility gear that gave some get up and go married to better fuel economy. 3:08 will give you a very good range of performance and better fuel economy than what I'm going to get.
In 72 the 442 (W29) 350's would get the 3:23 as a performance gear. The BBO W30 72's got the 3:42 gears.
All I'm doing is putting the car into what 'could have been' when ordered. You should see the list of options I'm putting into this project. When I'm done it will be one of the most highly optioned period correct 72 Cutlasses on the planet!
Go figure huh?
