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Full floor replacement on a 71 Cutlass Convertible
The floor was obtained from ADM (Auto Metal Direct) and it was as close to the original as I could tell. I used a $60 spot weld cutter too late. the $20 Amazon one sucked. Big difference with the one I bought at the local body supply. Once the rocker spot welds were cut and as much as I could get of the front floor boards the car was lowered onto half ramps in the front and jack stands under the rear axle. The car was not raised again until the floor was completely welded in at the top side. The car was never braced because i was putting the floor in from the top. One mistake was not jacking the rear of the car slightly when the new floor was in and I now have a slight gap at the top rear of the door. I have piles of pictures of this so I will post periodically. My patience for this site has worn thin over the years.
I have no problem answering questions as I see them and have time.
Originally tried an SO3 TiG wire but it was to thick. The kid at the welding supply counter didn't know what I was looking for and neither did I. It took some learning to repair this. My Miller 180 kept burning through I wound up using a Miller 135 with .023 wire and fed a TIG 70SO2 wire in the peddle to cool it to keep it from burning through. I got the trick off an old retired welder. Trying to repair this threw my patience for a loop. Welded a washer on this hole to hold the bushing. It didn't look like it was rotted that way but damaged possibly during the original installation of the body.
Big job for sure, looks like you got there just in time though. I burned thru many spots replacing my front pans, i would just go back andrepair the spots and i thinkit made me a better welder, which isnt really much cause i was a beginner w little experience when i started so i had no where to go but up.
That is a huge undertaking! I have not done that to mine yet but I think it will eventually need it. My middle brace has been cut out by a previous owner. I did replace the floor pans in my Boss' VW Beetle and that was a PITA. Even with the body off it took a lot of patience and work. The heater channels were even worse. That experience is probably why I have been dreading my Cutlass repairs. Yours looks great.
Hi there I'm in process of replacing my floors. Nit sure if I'm going full replacement or not. You have any tips on removing this part and finding a replacement? Someone mentioned its called the Brace, body lock pillar to floor pan. Thanks
The floor was obtained from ADM (Auto Metal Direct) and it was as close to the original as I could tell. I used a $60 spot weld cutter too late. the $20 Amazon one sucked. Big difference with the one I bought at the local body supply. Once the rocker spot welds were cut and as much as I could get of the front floor boards the car was lowered onto half ramps in the front and jack stands under the rear axle. The car was not raised again until the floor was completely welded in at the top side. The car was never braced because i was putting the floor in from the top. One mistake was not jacking the rear of the car slightly when the new floor was in and I now have a slight gap at the top rear of the door. I have piles of pictures of this so I will post periodically. My patience for this site has worn thin over the years.
I have no problem answering questions as I see them and have time.
Originally tried an SO3 TiG wire but it was to thick. The kid at the welding supply counter didn't know what I was looking for and neither did I. It took some learning to repair this. My Miller 180 kept burning through I wound up using a Miller 135 with .023 wire and fed a TIG 70SO2 wire in the peddle to cool it to keep it from burning through. I got the trick off an old retired welder. Trying to repair this threw my patience for a loop. Welded a washer on this hole to hold the bushing. It didn't look like it was rotted that way but damaged possibly during the original installation of the body.
June 6th, 2020, 05:40 PM
