Fell Into My Lap - Documented 1970 W-30
January 16th, 2014, 07:06 AM
#161
Engine disassembly day (about 2 1/2 hours)
I was curious about whether the engine had ever been into. I could not understand why the intake manifold had been off at one time, but the exhaust manifolds had obviously never been off the heads. Now I know.
First of all, good news on all the basic parts. The intake is in excellent condition 406115 with a date code of 11 13 69 and a 5562 below it. The heads are in good shape - center exhaust dividers have little erosion and have the same date code of 336. The 402294 & 402295 manifolds both have a Julian date of either 6 or 9 and have little pitting. Notched covers are dent free and relatively clean. Timing cover is good, threaded holes OK with little erosion. Bad news is I broke a water outlet bolt, and the LH center exhaust manifold bolt. The stumps are both sticking above the casting - more for Chris Dreiling to do.
And it is confirmed - the motor has been into. The rocker arms were replaced, 13 of the 16 pushrods were changed out, and the camshaft sprocket was replaced with a Cloyes S360 dated Nov. 1979. The crank sprocket is still the GM original - it is stamped GM SP. The intake gasket was made by McCord which has been out of biz for over 15 years. Did not pull the camshaft and lifters, but they look original. Will confirm tomorrow on this.
Engine is not using any oil, and cylinders have zero ridge. Piston crown shape/ depth looks to be high compression. Head gaskets were the original steel shim with a PN of 404896 on them.
So it looks like at some time between November 1979 and April 1985, someone changed out the cam sprocket and chain, most of the push rods, and all the rocker arms. They did not mess with the rest of engine, and it looks like they did all this without dropping the pan because the front lip seal was missing, and someone had made caulking type gasket out of blue RTV to seal the gap - quite comical.
The original motor mounts with GM part numbers on them were in horrible shape, and disposed of.
Will pull a main and rod cap off tomorrow and see the journal condition. I'm hoping to not have to rebuild the lower end if the crank is OK and the water jackets are not full of junk. I'll completely rebuild the heads with all new pushrods, rockers, springs, guides, seals, keepers and valves.
I was curious about whether the engine had ever been into. I could not understand why the intake manifold had been off at one time, but the exhaust manifolds had obviously never been off the heads. Now I know.
First of all, good news on all the basic parts. The intake is in excellent condition 406115 with a date code of 11 13 69 and a 5562 below it. The heads are in good shape - center exhaust dividers have little erosion and have the same date code of 336. The 402294 & 402295 manifolds both have a Julian date of either 6 or 9 and have little pitting. Notched covers are dent free and relatively clean. Timing cover is good, threaded holes OK with little erosion. Bad news is I broke a water outlet bolt, and the LH center exhaust manifold bolt. The stumps are both sticking above the casting - more for Chris Dreiling to do.
And it is confirmed - the motor has been into. The rocker arms were replaced, 13 of the 16 pushrods were changed out, and the camshaft sprocket was replaced with a Cloyes S360 dated Nov. 1979. The crank sprocket is still the GM original - it is stamped GM SP. The intake gasket was made by McCord which has been out of biz for over 15 years. Did not pull the camshaft and lifters, but they look original. Will confirm tomorrow on this.
Engine is not using any oil, and cylinders have zero ridge. Piston crown shape/ depth looks to be high compression. Head gaskets were the original steel shim with a PN of 404896 on them.
So it looks like at some time between November 1979 and April 1985, someone changed out the cam sprocket and chain, most of the push rods, and all the rocker arms. They did not mess with the rest of engine, and it looks like they did all this without dropping the pan because the front lip seal was missing, and someone had made caulking type gasket out of blue RTV to seal the gap - quite comical.
The original motor mounts with GM part numbers on them were in horrible shape, and disposed of.
Will pull a main and rod cap off tomorrow and see the journal condition. I'm hoping to not have to rebuild the lower end if the crank is OK and the water jackets are not full of junk. I'll completely rebuild the heads with all new pushrods, rockers, springs, guides, seals, keepers and valves.
January 20th, 2014, 08:15 PM
#163
A few days since posting (total time worked approx 12 hours)
Got started on fastener reconditioning, but took a few hours for something more fun. Here's the intake cleaned with carb cleaner and a hand held light tension wire brush to try to keep the original look to it.
Block will clean up at std bore, will reuse the original pistons in it due to with very little bore wear and almost zero ridge. Original 400165 cam will also be reused along with the matching lifters. Crank should also just need a polishing, and everything else will be replaced.
Found the found the correct, date code appropriate water pump and correct water outlet. Found some rust free doors locally (thanks KJR442!) and a rust free 71/72 fender will have to undergo the conversion to flat upper ridge.
Have sent a few parts to 70Post that I don't trust myself in restoring - seat belt cleaning, red well cleaning, grilles and headlamp surround repaint. He said mine need almost zero work, they are some of the nicest non NOS he's ever seen.
Trans bell housing lower plastic cover, despite two hours of work looks like crap and has a couple of cracks. Will post in parts wanted for one, along with a few correct bolts that I broke during disassembly. Pretty much everything else is looking good - for now.
Got started on fastener reconditioning, but took a few hours for something more fun. Here's the intake cleaned with carb cleaner and a hand held light tension wire brush to try to keep the original look to it.
Block will clean up at std bore, will reuse the original pistons in it due to with very little bore wear and almost zero ridge. Original 400165 cam will also be reused along with the matching lifters. Crank should also just need a polishing, and everything else will be replaced.
Found the found the correct, date code appropriate water pump and correct water outlet. Found some rust free doors locally (thanks KJR442!) and a rust free 71/72 fender will have to undergo the conversion to flat upper ridge.
Have sent a few parts to 70Post that I don't trust myself in restoring - seat belt cleaning, red well cleaning, grilles and headlamp surround repaint. He said mine need almost zero work, they are some of the nicest non NOS he's ever seen.
Trans bell housing lower plastic cover, despite two hours of work looks like crap and has a couple of cracks. Will post in parts wanted for one, along with a few correct bolts that I broke during disassembly. Pretty much everything else is looking good - for now.
Last edited by costpenn; January 20th, 2014 at 09:11 PM.
January 21st, 2014, 04:52 AM
#164
[QUOTE=costpenn;644211]A few days since posting (total time worked approx 12 hours)
Got started on fastener reconditioning, but took a few hours for something more fun. Here's the intake cleaned with carb cleaner and a hand held light tension wire brush to try to keep the original look to it.
Joe the work is looking good. Glad the engine was in such good condition.
How do you clean fasteners? I spent hours in front of a bench grinder with wire wheel on mine. I was wondering how a rock tumbler with some fine abrasive would work. You can buy those things at Harbor Freight for next to nothing . Has anyone tried this?
Got started on fastener reconditioning, but took a few hours for something more fun. Here's the intake cleaned with carb cleaner and a hand held light tension wire brush to try to keep the original look to it.
Joe the work is looking good. Glad the engine was in such good condition.
How do you clean fasteners? I spent hours in front of a bench grinder with wire wheel on mine. I was wondering how a rock tumbler with some fine abrasive would work. You can buy those things at Harbor Freight for next to nothing . Has anyone tried this?
January 21st, 2014, 07:26 AM
#165
Thanks Sampson.
I pretty much wire wheel everything myself. I bag everything as it comes off the car by what component it attaches to the car to keep them together. I'm up to 205 baggies of stuff and still have the undercarriage to do.
I process each baggie by itself - once again to keep all the fasteners together. I pretty much wire wheel every single nut, washer and bolt that needs it, unless somehow it has survived in pristine condition and those are usually only interior fasteners, and these usually I buff out on the cloth wheel with the white compound. If a fastener is going to be painted like valve cover bolts, I leave them nude. Nuts, washers, and bolts that look natural I shoot clear over out of the rattle can, and stuff that has to be plated I put aside after wire wheeling and send off as a group to be black oxide or zinc plated. I make sure that all the ones I send to be plated I make kind of like a bill of materials so when I get them back, I know which baggie they go in. I probably go over board on trying to keep the fasteners by application together and separate from each other, but it really helps the reassembly process go much faster, and avoid things being broken due to the bolt being too long, and also keeps the right fastener head marking back in the location it came out of.
I pretty much wire wheel everything myself. I bag everything as it comes off the car by what component it attaches to the car to keep them together. I'm up to 205 baggies of stuff and still have the undercarriage to do.
I process each baggie by itself - once again to keep all the fasteners together. I pretty much wire wheel every single nut, washer and bolt that needs it, unless somehow it has survived in pristine condition and those are usually only interior fasteners, and these usually I buff out on the cloth wheel with the white compound. If a fastener is going to be painted like valve cover bolts, I leave them nude. Nuts, washers, and bolts that look natural I shoot clear over out of the rattle can, and stuff that has to be plated I put aside after wire wheeling and send off as a group to be black oxide or zinc plated. I make sure that all the ones I send to be plated I make kind of like a bill of materials so when I get them back, I know which baggie they go in. I probably go over board on trying to keep the fasteners by application together and separate from each other, but it really helps the reassembly process go much faster, and avoid things being broken due to the bolt being too long, and also keeps the right fastener head marking back in the location it came out of.
Last edited by costpenn; January 21st, 2014 at 07:35 AM.
January 21st, 2014, 08:35 AM
#166
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,498
WOW! I used a bench grinder with a wire wheel when I did the Rallye 350. That is a long involved way of doing it. A blast cabinet is worth it's weight in gold compared to the wire wheel. Just have to learn not to etch the parts you don't want etched. My hands can not take the wire wheel method any more.
January 22nd, 2014, 01:46 PM
#168
WOW! I used a bench grinder with a wire wheel when I did the Rallye 350. That is a long involved way of doing it. A blast cabinet is worth it's weight in gold compared to the wire wheel. Just have to learn not to etch the parts you don't want etched. My hands can not take the wire wheel method any more.
It's not too bad for me. I use a old drill chuck to hold the bolt to clean the heads and then transfer it to a pair of vise grips to hold it by the head and clean the threads. The wire really cleans the threads well. Also, again, I'm reluctant to mix too many bolts together from different applications and risk getting them mixed up.
Believe me the blast cabinet is going to get a hell of a workout on all the other things I gotta clean/prep for paint!!
January 22nd, 2014, 09:41 PM
#170
Tonight's output (2 1/2 hours)
Fasteners only tonight. Worked on mostly engine fasteners, which are the slowest sets to do due to deterioration, precleaning, and raw quantities. Does any other engine have as many valve cover bolts as our beloved Rockets? I'm going to check if any of the Olds suppliers sell a kit of all the exhaust manifold bolts with the E W F markings and thick washers. The heads of the bolt on mine are pretty badly pitted.
Does anyone know what is the correct finish for the exhaust bolts? They look like they were never plated at all. The bolt plating pile is growing.
The engine ground strap came out looking good with just a good cleaning. I detailed the end eyelets with a little wire brush on a Dremel tool.
Fasteners only tonight. Worked on mostly engine fasteners, which are the slowest sets to do due to deterioration, precleaning, and raw quantities. Does any other engine have as many valve cover bolts as our beloved Rockets? I'm going to check if any of the Olds suppliers sell a kit of all the exhaust manifold bolts with the E W F markings and thick washers. The heads of the bolt on mine are pretty badly pitted.
Does anyone know what is the correct finish for the exhaust bolts? They look like they were never plated at all. The bolt plating pile is growing.
The engine ground strap came out looking good with just a good cleaning. I detailed the end eyelets with a little wire brush on a Dremel tool.
Last edited by costpenn; January 22nd, 2014 at 09:44 PM.
January 23rd, 2014, 06:21 PM
#171
No work tonight - too cold in the garage, but I did get my Eastwood 's order in for various spray bombs - detail gray, zinc, dull aluminum, cast blast, zinc, trunk spatter, etc....
January 24th, 2014, 02:29 PM
#174
No outside work today, but got my Master Cylinder back from White Post - excellent work, and the BE marking is still legible with a little light pitting. I asked them to double check what they show as the original finish on these due to the cast iron vs. black controversy I read about, but they insist it should be cast iron. They use a paint that is brake fluid resistant, and a little came out of the bore in transit, but it didn't even faze the paint.
Also sent out my front speaker to Freeman Tuell here in Dallas for reconing. The cone paper wasn't ripped, but since it felt dryer than a mummy's palms I am having it done. Only thing left to send out is the booster and other misc pieces to Gregoire, radiator to Centennial, and bolts to TPP.
Also sent out my front speaker to Freeman Tuell here in Dallas for reconing. The cone paper wasn't ripped, but since it felt dryer than a mummy's palms I am having it done. Only thing left to send out is the booster and other misc pieces to Gregoire, radiator to Centennial, and bolts to TPP.
Last edited by costpenn; January 24th, 2014 at 02:38 PM.
January 24th, 2014, 09:47 PM
#175
January 25th, 2014, 03:43 AM
#176
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 1,565
Joe: Ironic, the owner of Freeman Tuell was at our house last night (Friday), a close neighbor/friend having a cool one (actually 4) with me! Very close friend. Are you working on the car this weekend, and when? May run over.
Aron
Aron
January 25th, 2014, 09:32 PM
#177
Today's action.
Drive to Alvarado Texas to pick up KJR442's doors he sold me. You really do meet the nicest people when you own an Oldsmobile. Wait until he posts pics of the 1960 Olds he just bought. It is the CLASSIC definition of a unmolested barn find - solid car in original condition. The thing has all the OEM A/C stuff - so cool.
Went to the painter to see the car since I first dropped it off. Lots of good news, and here's a few pics. The deck lid is solid - hurray since I have learned here this car gas the correct early style trunk lid on it. RH fender is truly next to NOS - was replaced in the mid 80's with a GM one and the car has only about 1000 miles since, never in the rain and stored inside.
The LH 70 fender can be saved. The reinforcement is salvageable, it needs a lower rear patch panel and a lower front patch part around the marker light. I also found a "18" factory marking on the back of the fender around where the piercings are. I hope the pics came out OK. It will need lower a lower patch panel around the circumference of the LH wheel well and will probably need a outer wheel housing as well, but aside from that, looks like I dodged a bullet with respect to major rust.
Drive to Alvarado Texas to pick up KJR442's doors he sold me. You really do meet the nicest people when you own an Oldsmobile. Wait until he posts pics of the 1960 Olds he just bought. It is the CLASSIC definition of a unmolested barn find - solid car in original condition. The thing has all the OEM A/C stuff - so cool.
Went to the painter to see the car since I first dropped it off. Lots of good news, and here's a few pics. The deck lid is solid - hurray since I have learned here this car gas the correct early style trunk lid on it. RH fender is truly next to NOS - was replaced in the mid 80's with a GM one and the car has only about 1000 miles since, never in the rain and stored inside.
The LH 70 fender can be saved. The reinforcement is salvageable, it needs a lower rear patch panel and a lower front patch part around the marker light. I also found a "18" factory marking on the back of the fender around where the piercings are. I hope the pics came out OK. It will need lower a lower patch panel around the circumference of the LH wheel well and will probably need a outer wheel housing as well, but aside from that, looks like I dodged a bullet with respect to major rust.
Last edited by costpenn; January 25th, 2014 at 09:52 PM.
January 26th, 2014, 05:46 PM
#178
Long work session today (6 1/2 hours)
Lots of fastener clean up. Was able to save more than I thought - for example, I thought the muffler hanger bolts and washers were toast, but with a lot of wire wheeling they came out looking like new. Have now finished all of the engine bolts, and most of the undercar fasteners.
Also finished the block disassembly. Still looks like it will just need journal polishing, and a cylinder honing. All the pistons came out easily, rings weren't stuck or overtly worn. Found a 4972 stamped on the block where the starter mounts - anyone know anything about this marking? Date code on the crank is 13.
You would not believe how much nylon came out of the oil pick up. I will post a pic in a minute of the pile I scraped together, and more of it came out before I started collecting it.
Lots of fastener clean up. Was able to save more than I thought - for example, I thought the muffler hanger bolts and washers were toast, but with a lot of wire wheeling they came out looking like new. Have now finished all of the engine bolts, and most of the undercar fasteners.
Also finished the block disassembly. Still looks like it will just need journal polishing, and a cylinder honing. All the pistons came out easily, rings weren't stuck or overtly worn. Found a 4972 stamped on the block where the starter mounts - anyone know anything about this marking? Date code on the crank is 13.
You would not believe how much nylon came out of the oil pick up. I will post a pic in a minute of the pile I scraped together, and more of it came out before I started collecting it.
Last edited by costpenn; January 26th, 2014 at 06:30 PM.
January 27th, 2014, 07:53 PM
#179
Today's progress (3 1/2 hours)
Yet again more fastener reconditioning. Finished the main cap bolts, as tomorrow the block, crank, piston/rod assemblies, heads, and tin ware are going to Tinker's Machine Shop here in Dallas for work. Block will be vatted, new freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. Decks will be checked and surfaced, and cylinders rechecked for size and (hopefully) lightly honed to keep it at standard. Pistons will be cleaned and rods sized and checked for straightness. Crank will be polished and reinstalled with new bearings and rear main seal along with the OE pistons with new standard chrome rings - Enginetech of course.
Cylinder heads will get new guides, springs keepers and seals along with valves as required. Broken exhaust bolt to be extracted, and surface checked for straightness. Oil pan, valve covers, timing cover to be tanked. I'll reinstall the original 400165 cam & lifters, add valve train and the core engine will be finished.
Got to do some fun parts today like the choke stove piping, booster to firewall nuts, etc.. which look really good coming off the wheel. Found the acrylic lacquer clear changes the color of the steel the least, and interestingly the high heat clear is pretty inconspicuous as well. On certain screws that I don't want to plate, the high heat dull aluminum does a good job of mimicking the bright zinc plating. The Eastwood's phosphate stuff is excellent as well in certain applications.
Still have a lot of baggies to go. Some guys have me turned onto the AMK site for fasteners. Some things like the wheel cylinder to backing plate screws of mine are pretty wasted, and they have them available.
Yet again more fastener reconditioning. Finished the main cap bolts, as tomorrow the block, crank, piston/rod assemblies, heads, and tin ware are going to Tinker's Machine Shop here in Dallas for work. Block will be vatted, new freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. Decks will be checked and surfaced, and cylinders rechecked for size and (hopefully) lightly honed to keep it at standard. Pistons will be cleaned and rods sized and checked for straightness. Crank will be polished and reinstalled with new bearings and rear main seal along with the OE pistons with new standard chrome rings - Enginetech of course.
Cylinder heads will get new guides, springs keepers and seals along with valves as required. Broken exhaust bolt to be extracted, and surface checked for straightness. Oil pan, valve covers, timing cover to be tanked. I'll reinstall the original 400165 cam & lifters, add valve train and the core engine will be finished.
Got to do some fun parts today like the choke stove piping, booster to firewall nuts, etc.. which look really good coming off the wheel. Found the acrylic lacquer clear changes the color of the steel the least, and interestingly the high heat clear is pretty inconspicuous as well. On certain screws that I don't want to plate, the high heat dull aluminum does a good job of mimicking the bright zinc plating. The Eastwood's phosphate stuff is excellent as well in certain applications.
Still have a lot of baggies to go. Some guys have me turned onto the AMK site for fasteners. Some things like the wheel cylinder to backing plate screws of mine are pretty wasted, and they have them available.
Last edited by costpenn; January 27th, 2014 at 08:08 PM.
January 28th, 2014, 09:55 PM
#180
Today's activity (1 1/2 hours)
Tonite I wire wheeled/cleaned the following parts before sending them away to be plated
Dark Phosphate
Accelerator pedal rod
Hood latch
Safety catch
OAI underhood plates
Hood hinges
TCS switch bracket
Battery Tube frame bracket
Kick down switch bracket
Disc brake valve prop. bracket
Gold Cadmium
Booster (to be rebuilt as well)
M/C. cap
Jack column
Zinc
Ash Tray
Hot air stove
Coil bracket
Starter heat shield
Battery cable tube clamp
Will not be able to get the carb dashpot off the bracket without breaking it, so will clean/clear/paint while assembled as required.
Also placed my order with AMK for bolts that were missing, incorrect, or too far gone. Used a 70 Chevelle as the catalog application and only ordered stuff I am pretty sure Chevelle &. Olds have in common. Big savings on things like control arm bolts, sway bar bolts, fronpt upper bushing nuts and big washers, bumper bracket to frame bolts, etc... Will let everyone know what actually fit.
Tonite I wire wheeled/cleaned the following parts before sending them away to be plated
Dark Phosphate
Accelerator pedal rod
Hood latch
Safety catch
OAI underhood plates
Hood hinges
TCS switch bracket
Battery Tube frame bracket
Kick down switch bracket
Disc brake valve prop. bracket
Gold Cadmium
Booster (to be rebuilt as well)
M/C. cap
Jack column
Zinc
Ash Tray
Hot air stove
Coil bracket
Starter heat shield
Battery cable tube clamp
Will not be able to get the carb dashpot off the bracket without breaking it, so will clean/clear/paint while assembled as required.
Also placed my order with AMK for bolts that were missing, incorrect, or too far gone. Used a 70 Chevelle as the catalog application and only ordered stuff I am pretty sure Chevelle &. Olds have in common. Big savings on things like control arm bolts, sway bar bolts, fronpt upper bushing nuts and big washers, bumper bracket to frame bolts, etc... Will let everyone know what actually fit.
Last edited by costpenn; January 28th, 2014 at 10:22 PM.
January 29th, 2014, 05:13 AM
#181
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 1,565
Nylon?
Joe: The "nylon" that was stuck to the oil pick up, where did that come from? Filter media? A shop towel left in the pan? That looks crazy, and don't think it really "belongs" there! But everyone knows my limitations when it comes to things mechanical! LOL! Been down with a really bad cold, couldn't make it over last weekend, will keep trying.
Aron
Aron
January 29th, 2014, 06:17 AM
#182
car guy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,656
Joe: The "nylon" that was stuck to the oil pick up, where did that come from? Filter media? A shop towel left in the pan? That looks crazy, and don't think it really "belongs" there! But everyone knows my limitations when it comes to things mechanical! LOL! Been down with a really bad cold, couldn't make it over last weekend, will keep trying.
Aron
Aron
January 29th, 2014, 06:19 AM
#183
Joe: The "nylon" that was stuck to the oil pick up, where did that come from? Filter media? A shop towel left in the pan? That looks crazy, and don't think it really "belongs" there! But everyone knows my limitations when it comes to things mechanical! LOL! Been down with a really bad cold, couldn't make it over last weekend, will keep trying.
Aron
Aron
The nylon bit and chunks are from the O.E. camshaft sprocket disintegrating due to heat and age. In '68 I believe, Olds engineers tried to quiet down some more engine/valve train noise by lining the cam sprocket hub with nylon teeth. Quieter yes, but not as long lasting as a conventional iron or powdered metal design. I kept the one that came off the Hurst if you want to see it. The nylon was cracking, but it had not started coming apart yet.
January 29th, 2014, 09:33 PM
#184
Today's Work (3 hours)
Sent booster, cap, hinges, disc brake prop. valve, bail, jack column off to California. Sent door handles into Al's for rechroming, spoke with JoesW31 and bought a NOS non Rally Pak temp sending unit.
Also did three more baggies of different bolts, and cleaning detailing of the intake mounted carb dash pot. The most effort was devoted to, of all things, the ashtray. I was going to send it in to get plated, but realized those side plastic runners are riveted to the body of it, and am worried they'll get screwed up if I try to remove them. I spent about an hour removing the corrosion with a Dremel tool using a variety of different attachments, and still it looks like butt. No holes, but it is pretty pitted looking. Since no one is ever going to smoke in the car again, I'm thinking about smoothing it out as much as possible and shooting it with the Eastwood's blue/silver Zinc paint. Anyone else have experience with this?
Sent booster, cap, hinges, disc brake prop. valve, bail, jack column off to California. Sent door handles into Al's for rechroming, spoke with JoesW31 and bought a NOS non Rally Pak temp sending unit.
Also did three more baggies of different bolts, and cleaning detailing of the intake mounted carb dash pot. The most effort was devoted to, of all things, the ashtray. I was going to send it in to get plated, but realized those side plastic runners are riveted to the body of it, and am worried they'll get screwed up if I try to remove them. I spent about an hour removing the corrosion with a Dremel tool using a variety of different attachments, and still it looks like butt. No holes, but it is pretty pitted looking. Since no one is ever going to smoke in the car again, I'm thinking about smoothing it out as much as possible and shooting it with the Eastwood's blue/silver Zinc paint. Anyone else have experience with this?
Last edited by costpenn; January 29th, 2014 at 09:42 PM.
January 30th, 2014, 07:31 AM
#187
A few pics of the finished dashpot and bracket. I had to detail it without removing the dashpot from the bracket and damaging it, so I wirewheeled as much as I could, dremel tooled it, steel wooled the pot, carefully cleaned with a toothbrush the gray boot, LIGHTLY wire wheeled the spring, cleaned the white plastic piece with carb cleaner, then taped off the dashpot and painted the bracket with the Eastwood Zinc with a dusting of Stainless Steel paint.
January 31st, 2014, 09:28 PM
#196
No actual resto work today (0 hours)
But, dropped off engine at the machine shop. Measured all the journals before I left and the crank on the rods will have to go .010, but mains are all in spec. Bore will be checked one more time after vatting - #6 is right on the edge of having to go oversize.
Dropped off the radiator. Told the guy NOT to paint it. I like using the Eastwood's radiator paint. He says he will try to remember. Hope the ID rag survives - I told the guy at least 5X to be careful. Interestingly, he looked it over and said it might just need a rodding out - it is the original core.
Dallas Bumper Exchange was closed at 2:30 PM on a Friday - out of biz? Was going to drop off the rear to get done, will have to find an alternative. I bought a front triple chrome plated GM off evil bay for 550.00 delivered. It is really nice. Mine had a weird dent right in the very center of the point in the middle of the bumper like it once hit a trailer ball, and was going to be difficult to fix (right)
Then went to paint shop. Holes in the cowl can be fixed with metal patches. Going to get both quarter skins for around the wheel wells. Brian is going to Herculean lengths to try to save the headliner. He got the rear window windlace off without damaging the material - whew.
Back to bolts tomorrow
But, dropped off engine at the machine shop. Measured all the journals before I left and the crank on the rods will have to go .010, but mains are all in spec. Bore will be checked one more time after vatting - #6 is right on the edge of having to go oversize.
Dropped off the radiator. Told the guy NOT to paint it. I like using the Eastwood's radiator paint. He says he will try to remember. Hope the ID rag survives - I told the guy at least 5X to be careful. Interestingly, he looked it over and said it might just need a rodding out - it is the original core.
Dallas Bumper Exchange was closed at 2:30 PM on a Friday - out of biz? Was going to drop off the rear to get done, will have to find an alternative. I bought a front triple chrome plated GM off evil bay for 550.00 delivered. It is really nice. Mine had a weird dent right in the very center of the point in the middle of the bumper like it once hit a trailer ball, and was going to be difficult to fix (right)
Then went to paint shop. Holes in the cowl can be fixed with metal patches. Going to get both quarter skins for around the wheel wells. Brian is going to Herculean lengths to try to save the headliner. He got the rear window windlace off without damaging the material - whew.
Back to bolts tomorrow
Last edited by costpenn; February 1st, 2014 at 06:36 AM.
February 1st, 2014, 06:31 AM
#197
February 1st, 2014, 07:02 AM
#198
A few pics of the finished dashpot and bracket. I had to detail it without removing the dashpot from the bracket and damaging it, so I wirewheeled as much as I could, dremel tooled it, steel wooled the pot, carefully cleaned with a toothbrush the gray boot, LIGHTLY wire wheeled the spring, cleaned the white plastic piece with carb cleaner, then taped off the dashpot and painted the bracket with the Eastwood Zinc with a dusting of Stainless Steel paint.
Details, details, details,
This looks great Joe! I know how much time it takes to detail a small piece like this. I had about 40 hours in the A/C cover box on mine. It would be interesting to keep a time log on a restoration just to see how many hours go into doing it right like you are. How many hours have you stood in front of the wire wheel?
Keep the pics coming
February 1st, 2014, 09:30 PM
#199
Details, details, details,
This looks great Joe! I know how much time it takes to detail a small piece like this. I had about 40 hours in the A/C cover box on mine. It would be interesting to keep a time log on a restoration just to see how many hours go into doing it right like you are. How many hours have you stood in front of the wire wheel?
Keep the pics coming
This looks great Joe! I know how much time it takes to detail a small piece like this. I had about 40 hours in the A/C cover box on mine. It would be interesting to keep a time log on a restoration just to see how many hours go into doing it right like you are. How many hours have you stood in front of the wire wheel?
Keep the pics coming
February 1st, 2014, 09:44 PM
#200
Today's report (4 1/2 hours)
Boltapalooza continues.
Am finally getting to the end of all the engine fasteners & underhood bolts not attached to the frame. Much like the master cylinder to booster nuts, the disc brake proportioning valve bolt was junk from severe pitting - brake fluid is nasty, corrosive crap.
Still not satisfied with the finish on the W-30 intake manifold. Chris Dreiling is going to mill the sides to get it straight since around #1 it is warped inwards about .007, and has offered to talc blast it. I tried Patton!!!
Below is a pic of my work station the way I have it set up to process bolt refurbishment. I am trying to save as many original bolts as I can, and keep them organized so they go back in the same application where they were originally installed. I go to a lot of extra effort in the tear down to, as I am pulling the parts off having no piles of bolts accumulating and getting mixed up, so I bag and label it as soon as it comes off the car. I also make notes on the baggie like wrong bolt, or missing one, or location specifics if needed. For me it is torture because it makes disassembly go so slow, but it is so worth it later on
On the end is the wire wheel, bolted to the table as close as possible to the front to give me as many angles and clearance possible in bringing the part to the wheel. Lots of light helps so much, especially with 50 year old eyes. I keep the vise close by along with the tap and die set to identify and fix problem fasteners on the spot. I keep a cheap foil tray of Purple Power right there to clean the easy stuff off, and have a can of Brake Cleaner, then Carb Cleaner in respective strength to deal with the dirtier ones. I also have a can of liquid parts cleaner with the basket I use for bolts that are really dirty, but it almost makes as much of a mess as it it cleans, and causes flash rust I then have to deal with.
I use a drill chuck to hold the bolt by the shank to clean the head, then use the appropriate size vise grip to hold it by the head to clean the bolt threads and shank. I also keep some wooden shiksabob skewers, Q-Tips, and Griot foam pad sticks to clean crevices and tight spots I can't get to any other way. Lastly, I keep a toothbrush sized wire brush for the hard to get to spots that are corroded.
Most important, to me, is my box system for keeping things straight. You can see the boxes on the table that hold and identify the baggie basic car location, and thd status of the baggie inside. The Junk Hold box holds baggies for the bolts that are too far gone and I'm ordering replacements from AMK or others and want to compare against each other.The boxes marked To Be Plated is obvious, but I try to only plate those that really need it to avoid all the problems that will be caused by the intermixing that occurs when you send them off. The Engine Not Done are still waiting for work, and the other two boxes are completed bags. I mark each baggie with a little red stick on dot to denote completion. Not showing in the pic are the boxes of interior and body fasteners I have not even touched yet.
Boltapalooza continues.
Am finally getting to the end of all the engine fasteners & underhood bolts not attached to the frame. Much like the master cylinder to booster nuts, the disc brake proportioning valve bolt was junk from severe pitting - brake fluid is nasty, corrosive crap.
Still not satisfied with the finish on the W-30 intake manifold. Chris Dreiling is going to mill the sides to get it straight since around #1 it is warped inwards about .007, and has offered to talc blast it. I tried Patton!!!
Below is a pic of my work station the way I have it set up to process bolt refurbishment. I am trying to save as many original bolts as I can, and keep them organized so they go back in the same application where they were originally installed. I go to a lot of extra effort in the tear down to, as I am pulling the parts off having no piles of bolts accumulating and getting mixed up, so I bag and label it as soon as it comes off the car. I also make notes on the baggie like wrong bolt, or missing one, or location specifics if needed. For me it is torture because it makes disassembly go so slow, but it is so worth it later on
On the end is the wire wheel, bolted to the table as close as possible to the front to give me as many angles and clearance possible in bringing the part to the wheel. Lots of light helps so much, especially with 50 year old eyes. I keep the vise close by along with the tap and die set to identify and fix problem fasteners on the spot. I keep a cheap foil tray of Purple Power right there to clean the easy stuff off, and have a can of Brake Cleaner, then Carb Cleaner in respective strength to deal with the dirtier ones. I also have a can of liquid parts cleaner with the basket I use for bolts that are really dirty, but it almost makes as much of a mess as it it cleans, and causes flash rust I then have to deal with.
I use a drill chuck to hold the bolt by the shank to clean the head, then use the appropriate size vise grip to hold it by the head to clean the bolt threads and shank. I also keep some wooden shiksabob skewers, Q-Tips, and Griot foam pad sticks to clean crevices and tight spots I can't get to any other way. Lastly, I keep a toothbrush sized wire brush for the hard to get to spots that are corroded.
Most important, to me, is my box system for keeping things straight. You can see the boxes on the table that hold and identify the baggie basic car location, and thd status of the baggie inside. The Junk Hold box holds baggies for the bolts that are too far gone and I'm ordering replacements from AMK or others and want to compare against each other.The boxes marked To Be Plated is obvious, but I try to only plate those that really need it to avoid all the problems that will be caused by the intermixing that occurs when you send them off. The Engine Not Done are still waiting for work, and the other two boxes are completed bags. I mark each baggie with a little red stick on dot to denote completion. Not showing in the pic are the boxes of interior and body fasteners I have not even touched yet.
Last edited by costpenn; February 1st, 2014 at 10:38 PM.
