Fell Into My Lap - Documented 1970 W-30
December 2nd, 2013, 07:36 PM
#81
If you are going to restore it,a car like that has to be done all the way,best as possible. You could put it up for sale,just as it sits,and see if you get a buyer.Otherwise,take your time & restore it.
It soulds a lot like the Astro blue 4-spd in my building,as far as the body goes.It is a 12A car,but my Agean Aqua car is 1D,like yours.
Does your car have the intake that says OLDSMOBILE W455 or OLDS W455?
The correct alternator should be 1100890 55A. I had one dated December 29th,which would be a great fit for that.I'll see if I still have it.
I am going to guess that the carb is dated 3329,and the distributor is dated 9L19.I think the 0A8 would to late to make it to production for a late-January car,but I could be wrong.Are your F-heads dated 295 or 336?Block date?
This is all cool stuff.
It soulds a lot like the Astro blue 4-spd in my building,as far as the body goes.It is a 12A car,but my Agean Aqua car is 1D,like yours.
Does your car have the intake that says OLDSMOBILE W455 or OLDS W455?
The correct alternator should be 1100890 55A. I had one dated December 29th,which would be a great fit for that.I'll see if I still have it.
I am going to guess that the carb is dated 3329,and the distributor is dated 9L19.I think the 0A8 would to late to make it to production for a late-January car,but I could be wrong.Are your F-heads dated 295 or 336?Block date?
This is all cool stuff.
December 3rd, 2013, 03:09 PM
#82
A few more disassembly notes:
Was able to remove all underdash duct work - the plastic pieces and original cloth duct hoses intact without any tabs being broken.
Found some remnants of a plastic bag and a old wire tie holding to the side of the RH upper duct work between the glove box and the duct. Maybe was used to eliminate a squeak or rattle?
Someone, long ago, had to hide some cannabis, and put in the back of the glove box door. Must have shoved it in the holes that are used to attach the glovebox emblem.
Steering wheel is not sticky at all and is in excellent condition, but the long windlaces that run front to back along the headliner edge are. Nasty. Why are the steering wheel to hub screws always loose on the Rally steering wheels?
Turns out both doors are original to the car, but the driver's side was reskinned at some point. All but that panel had the black paper barrier still attached. They are going to need work on the bottoms, but I think they are worth saving.
Looks like the carpet will be OK. It amazing what a good brushing and vacuuming can do.
Floor is excellent - a little surface rust in the front floorboards only. The back wells and underseat are virgin.
The dash pad has a little sag to it right above the gauges. Not sure whether it is worth replacing. All the other soft trim in the interior I’m going to re use. Changing out only the door handles, headrest escutcheons, bucket seat piping, arm rest backing plates, seat release buttons and console bezel.
Have decided to go with the SSII wheels and the Goodyear repo bias ply G70X14 tires, and am not going to install gauges or a AM/FM.
Was able to remove all underdash duct work - the plastic pieces and original cloth duct hoses intact without any tabs being broken.
Found some remnants of a plastic bag and a old wire tie holding to the side of the RH upper duct work between the glove box and the duct. Maybe was used to eliminate a squeak or rattle?
Someone, long ago, had to hide some cannabis, and put in the back of the glove box door. Must have shoved it in the holes that are used to attach the glovebox emblem.
Steering wheel is not sticky at all and is in excellent condition, but the long windlaces that run front to back along the headliner edge are. Nasty. Why are the steering wheel to hub screws always loose on the Rally steering wheels?
Turns out both doors are original to the car, but the driver's side was reskinned at some point. All but that panel had the black paper barrier still attached. They are going to need work on the bottoms, but I think they are worth saving.
Looks like the carpet will be OK. It amazing what a good brushing and vacuuming can do.
Floor is excellent - a little surface rust in the front floorboards only. The back wells and underseat are virgin.
The dash pad has a little sag to it right above the gauges. Not sure whether it is worth replacing. All the other soft trim in the interior I’m going to re use. Changing out only the door handles, headrest escutcheons, bucket seat piping, arm rest backing plates, seat release buttons and console bezel.
Have decided to go with the SSII wheels and the Goodyear repo bias ply G70X14 tires, and am not going to install gauges or a AM/FM.
Last edited by costpenn; December 3rd, 2013 at 03:14 PM.
December 3rd, 2013, 03:27 PM
#83
Old School Olds
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Marble Falls TX
Posts: 9,029
[QUOTE=costpenn;622997]A few more disassembly notes:
Someone, long ago, had to hide some cannabis, and put in the back of the glove box door. Must have shoved it in the holes that are used to attach the glovebox emblem.
So how was it?
Someone, long ago, had to hide some cannabis, and put in the back of the glove box door. Must have shoved it in the holes that are used to attach the glovebox emblem.
So how was it?
December 3rd, 2013, 08:30 PM
#84
December 4th, 2013, 02:02 PM
#85
Good progress this morning on the disassembly. Was not able to save the firewall grommet that the A/C vac. line and wires pass through - it just crumbled as I pulled the A/C harness through it. Also, glove box liner is pretty shot - mostly from ne getting it out incorrectly. I have so much @#$! trouble with that stupid glove box liner and reattaching the hinge to the dash.
Anyone know about the very strange looking - to me- white 3 pin barrel shaped connectors on the door jamb switches? I've never seen these before on any of the cars I have done.
Anyone know about the very strange looking - to me- white 3 pin barrel shaped connectors on the door jamb switches? I've never seen these before on any of the cars I have done.
Last edited by costpenn; December 4th, 2013 at 02:05 PM.
December 4th, 2013, 02:09 PM
#86
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie,PA
Posts: 3,814
Those 3-pin door jamb switches are either a 70 thing,or a driver side thing. I don't quite remember,but I have seen plenty if those. I remember sorting through about 10 of them,to find the best one for Nate's W30.
We sorted through piles of each part,to pick out the best one for that car.He even had four 336-dated F-heads,and we picked the best two.
We sorted through piles of each part,to pick out the best one for that car.He even had four 336-dated F-heads,and we picked the best two.
December 4th, 2013, 02:28 PM
#87
Those 3-pin door jamb switches are either a 70 thing,or a driver side thing. I don't quite remember,but I have seen plenty if those. I remember sorting through about 10 of them,to find the best one for Nate's W30.
We sorted through piles of each part,to pick out the best one for that car.He even had four 336-dated F-heads,and we picked the best two.
We sorted through piles of each part,to pick out the best one for that car.He even had four 336-dated F-heads,and we picked the best two.
Brian, mine has them on both door jambs. I've done my 68, two 71's and a 72 and never encountered them before. I used to have a 70, but never pulled those switches out.
Did you have a chance to check on that alternator?
December 11th, 2013, 09:15 PM
#90
Damn did it get cold since my last update, but did get a few more things done.
I placed and received my big " non specialty Olds part" order from Rock Auto. Wound up spending right at 950.00 for many misc parts such as Gas tank, tank straps, tank sending unit, Delco fuel pump (41567), heater core, blower motor, heater valve, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar link kits, sway bar bushings, upper and lower control arm bushings, front and rear coil springs, front pads and rear shoes, all possible brake hardware (holddown, springs, self adjusters, caliper pins etc...) front and rear brake hoses, front and rear wheel bearings, seals, temp & oil pressure sending units, blower relay, battery tray, trans seal kit, trans filter, air filter, differential cover gasket, rear end snubbers, brake pedal pad, points, condenser, cap (do not like it) spark plugs, speedo cable, universal joints, receiver/dryer, thermostat, motor mounts, tranny mount, and a few more misc. pieces. The majority of the parts are A/C Delco brand, but they are of off shore origin. They do look nice on my shelf in their blue Delco boxes.
Still have to place orders with Fusick, TPP, Ames, and ILT. Will await completion of the tear down before placing. Some stuff I thought that I would have to replace might be salvageable. For example, I thought I would have to replace the PRNDL lettering thing in the Dual Gate, but in messing with it tonight it cleaned up, with a DELICATE cleaning, very well. Also, the bezel itself I was sure would need to have rechromed, not so sure now. Same with seat belts - Snake Oyl is a lot of dough.
Got my Millenium reprint of the 70 assy manual. Pure junk - the pages that are most critical are out of focus or too light to read. Anyone want to sell a good legible one?
Dash came out with all the mounting studs intact. Boy, there's a lot of wires and hoses going to the temp control switches.
Pulled the distributor. It is the correct 979 unit with a 9L19 code next to it. The vac. advance unit has been replaced with a funky one that has a 90 deg. elbow on the vac hose nipple.
I placed and received my big " non specialty Olds part" order from Rock Auto. Wound up spending right at 950.00 for many misc parts such as Gas tank, tank straps, tank sending unit, Delco fuel pump (41567), heater core, blower motor, heater valve, upper and lower ball joints, sway bar link kits, sway bar bushings, upper and lower control arm bushings, front and rear coil springs, front pads and rear shoes, all possible brake hardware (holddown, springs, self adjusters, caliper pins etc...) front and rear brake hoses, front and rear wheel bearings, seals, temp & oil pressure sending units, blower relay, battery tray, trans seal kit, trans filter, air filter, differential cover gasket, rear end snubbers, brake pedal pad, points, condenser, cap (do not like it) spark plugs, speedo cable, universal joints, receiver/dryer, thermostat, motor mounts, tranny mount, and a few more misc. pieces. The majority of the parts are A/C Delco brand, but they are of off shore origin. They do look nice on my shelf in their blue Delco boxes.
Still have to place orders with Fusick, TPP, Ames, and ILT. Will await completion of the tear down before placing. Some stuff I thought that I would have to replace might be salvageable. For example, I thought I would have to replace the PRNDL lettering thing in the Dual Gate, but in messing with it tonight it cleaned up, with a DELICATE cleaning, very well. Also, the bezel itself I was sure would need to have rechromed, not so sure now. Same with seat belts - Snake Oyl is a lot of dough.
Got my Millenium reprint of the 70 assy manual. Pure junk - the pages that are most critical are out of focus or too light to read. Anyone want to sell a good legible one?
Dash came out with all the mounting studs intact. Boy, there's a lot of wires and hoses going to the temp control switches.
Pulled the distributor. It is the correct 979 unit with a 9L19 code next to it. The vac. advance unit has been replaced with a funky one that has a 90 deg. elbow on the vac hose nipple.
Last edited by costpenn; December 11th, 2013 at 09:42 PM.
December 12th, 2013, 05:40 AM
#91
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie,PA
Posts: 3,814
The original vacuum pods have that 90* curve on the pipe.Look for a number stamped into the flat plate of the pod.
What is the julian date on the block,next to the distributor hole. Your water pump should have a julian date near the casting number.
What is the julian date on the block,next to the distributor hole. Your water pump should have a julian date near the casting number.
Last edited by 507OLDS; December 12th, 2013 at 05:50 AM.
December 17th, 2013, 02:01 PM
#92
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie,PA
Posts: 3,814
Another good question for the 70 guys:
What does the underside of the trunklid look like? Are their rings,or is it plain? Post a picture if you can. Just trying to determine when they went to the second style.
What does the underside of the trunklid look like? Are their rings,or is it plain? Post a picture if you can. Just trying to determine when they went to the second style.
December 17th, 2013, 09:44 PM
#93
What am I looking for with regard to the rings vs. plain? And also, could you go ahead and send that package by the end of this week?
December 18th, 2013, 08:30 AM
#94
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie,PA
Posts: 3,814
I would have the painter try and mask along the seam on the underside,and that way paint the actual skin only,including the part that is folded over and crimped.
Look at the underside in the area where the wing studs would come through.There are three styles for 70-72.
1: plain or flat
2: raised rib ring
3: open ring
The first two were used during 1970 model production. The 3rd style was used for 71-72,and any NOS ones will likely be like #3,unless they were bought in 1970.
Look at the underside in the area where the wing studs would come through.There are three styles for 70-72.
1: plain or flat
2: raised rib ring
3: open ring
The first two were used during 1970 model production. The 3rd style was used for 71-72,and any NOS ones will likely be like #3,unless they were bought in 1970.
December 18th, 2013, 08:59 AM
#95
Trying to remember member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,112
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...=9930348356921
Plus lots of other documents!
December 21st, 2013, 01:39 PM
#97
Finally got the block date, but don't have a clue how to decipher. It has a single "4", then below it it has "15" between some marks that look like rivet heads. Anyone?
December 21st, 2013, 02:01 PM
#99
Trying to remember member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,112
The 4 is the "mold" number, or more specifically the 4th pattern that was made for the 455 block casting. The 15 is the ordinal date code meaning the 15th day of the year. It does not tell you directly what the year is, but the mold number indicates that it probably 1970. The marks you see are the screw heads that secure the metal date code tag to the pattern, obviously changed daily.
December 21st, 2013, 02:20 PM
#100
"Car"mudgeon
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Perry, GA
Posts: 5,191
December 21st, 2013, 02:30 PM
#101
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie,PA
Posts: 3,814
The next date of the 979 is 0A8,which is January 8th,but would be pushing it,to have been on his car,unlike the block,which have found to have dates closer to the date of the car.The 9L19 makes sense.
The block to Nate's blue car was cast a week before his car was built.I don't think that one sat in the corner,waiting to get used.
The block to Nate's blue car was cast a week before his car was built.I don't think that one sat in the corner,waiting to get used.
December 23rd, 2013, 10:26 AM
#103
I would have the painter try and mask along the seam on the underside,and that way paint the actual skin only,including the part that is folded over and crimped.
Look at the underside in the area where the wing studs would come through.There are three styles for 70-72.
1: plain or flat
2: raised rib ring
3: open ring
The first two were used during 1970 model production. The 3rd style was used for 71-72,and any NOS ones will likely be like #3,unless they were bought in 1970.
Look at the underside in the area where the wing studs would come through.There are three styles for 70-72.
1: plain or flat
2: raised rib ring
3: open ring
The first two were used during 1970 model production. The 3rd style was used for 71-72,and any NOS ones will likely be like #3,unless they were bought in 1970.
Brain, here's some pics of the trunk underside. It has never been messed with, and to me this shows how the stickers were actually placed - relatively close to where the assembly manual says they're supposed to be with maybe a little +/-... Let me know if this has the info you need on the ring question.
December 23rd, 2013, 10:48 AM
#104
Also here some pics of some other things I found during the disassembly process.
1) I found this tag dated DEC 16 '69 stuck on top of the heater case housing. I don't know if this is commonly found, and I haven't seen anyone repro these yet - or even mention them.
2) This tightly folded plastic bagging material was folded up and stuffed kind of like between the RH upper A/C duct and the "frame" of the glovebox housing. It has some numbers on it, and though it looks newish, it is really brittle.
3) Here's a pic of what was holding that plastic in place - kind of, but it was stuffed in there pretty well.. It's a very thin gauge wire.
I don't believe 2 and 3 were placed there after the car was built because I'm 100% sure that dash had never been out before. Anyone ever seen anything like it?
1) I found this tag dated DEC 16 '69 stuck on top of the heater case housing. I don't know if this is commonly found, and I haven't seen anyone repro these yet - or even mention them.
2) This tightly folded plastic bagging material was folded up and stuffed kind of like between the RH upper A/C duct and the "frame" of the glovebox housing. It has some numbers on it, and though it looks newish, it is really brittle.
3) Here's a pic of what was holding that plastic in place - kind of, but it was stuffed in there pretty well.. It's a very thin gauge wire.
I don't believe 2 and 3 were placed there after the car was built because I'm 100% sure that dash had never been out before. Anyone ever seen anything like it?
December 23rd, 2013, 12:29 PM
#105
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,535
Brain, here's some pics of the trunk underside. It has never been messed with, and to me this shows how the stickers were actually placed - relatively close to where the assembly manual says they're supposed to be with maybe a little +/-... Let me know if this has the info you need on the ring question.
It is nice to see you have the first style because it just adds to the suspicion that the second style was not out till later in the year.
December 24th, 2013, 07:17 PM
#106
December 25th, 2013, 06:51 PM
#108
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 36
Interesting on the bag and wire.
I just pulled my dash out this last weekend out of my 72 convertible. Found the same type of wire at basically the same position but without the bag. I assumed it was a post production install by a dealership tech for a repair as it looks like my dash had been out before with some missing nuts for the studs.
May possibly be a TSB repair? Would like to know if anyone has any idea of why it is there?
Bill
I just pulled my dash out this last weekend out of my 72 convertible. Found the same type of wire at basically the same position but without the bag. I assumed it was a post production install by a dealership tech for a repair as it looks like my dash had been out before with some missing nuts for the studs.
May possibly be a TSB repair? Would like to know if anyone has any idea of why it is there?
Bill
December 25th, 2013, 09:57 PM
#109
Interesting on the bag and wire.
I just pulled my dash out this last weekend out of my 72 convertible. Found the same type of wire at basically the same position but without the bag. I assumed it was a post production install by a dealership tech for a repair as it looks like my dash had been out before with some missing nuts for the studs.
May possibly be a TSB repair? Would like to know if anyone has any idea of why it is there?
Bill
I just pulled my dash out this last weekend out of my 72 convertible. Found the same type of wire at basically the same position but without the bag. I assumed it was a post production install by a dealership tech for a repair as it looks like my dash had been out before with some missing nuts for the studs.
May possibly be a TSB repair? Would like to know if anyone has any idea of why it is there?
Bill
December 28th, 2013, 10:51 PM
#110
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie,PA
Posts: 3,814
My aqua car was built February 4th,1970,02A on cowl tag,and the body number is 362759.
Does your cowl tag or sheet happen to have a "Z" in front of the interior trim code? My aqua car has this,and I have seen other Lansing cars with this,but not all of them.
Does your cowl tag or sheet happen to have a "Z" in front of the interior trim code? My aqua car has this,and I have seen other Lansing cars with this,but not all of them.
December 30th, 2013, 06:16 PM
#111
Brian, mine does not have the Z in front of the 930 code. Do you know what the Z stands for?
December 30th, 2013, 07:04 PM
#113
A Mixed Day Of Tear Down
Well, today I enjoyed almost 6 & 1/2 hours of uninterrupted time to continue the disassembly. A few highlights, and low lights:
1) Broken bolt day. Broke off both header flange to exh manifold bolts off in the manifold on the LH side. This manifold might have a crack so I maybe looking for another one. Also, broke one off on the Fenderwell to radiator support, and don't know what to do about the battery tray to support bolts - they don't even budge, and a couple have the head worn down to where the socket does not fit. The red wells are so nice - have to be careful here.
2) Also, the LH fender lip to the well bolts I believe have had the j nuts break. The bolt just spins and doesn't come out. I was trying to avoid pulling the fender off before taking it in for paint, but now I'm going to have to to pull it to get the well off, after I get the battery tray out!!!
3) No doubt about it - I'm going to need both rear quarter skins.
4) Brian, on the X water pump, I can't find a part number. There is a faint sideways 2 on the inlet hump, and on the lower right flat part there is Made In The USA, and below that is 5741.
5) The starter is 1108389 OG 6 1. Below that is Made In The USA. I think this is the correct one and it looks like it has never been off the car. Is the date code right for a Jan 70 car? I don't know how this dating code works.
6) The power steering belt looks to be original to the car. Has the GM number, but it also says Dayco on it. P/S hoses also are original but very tired. Going to send it and the gearbox off to the guy in Missouri who rebuilds and details them.
Happy New Year
1) Broken bolt day. Broke off both header flange to exh manifold bolts off in the manifold on the LH side. This manifold might have a crack so I maybe looking for another one. Also, broke one off on the Fenderwell to radiator support, and don't know what to do about the battery tray to support bolts - they don't even budge, and a couple have the head worn down to where the socket does not fit. The red wells are so nice - have to be careful here.
2) Also, the LH fender lip to the well bolts I believe have had the j nuts break. The bolt just spins and doesn't come out. I was trying to avoid pulling the fender off before taking it in for paint, but now I'm going to have to to pull it to get the well off, after I get the battery tray out!!!
3) No doubt about it - I'm going to need both rear quarter skins.
4) Brian, on the X water pump, I can't find a part number. There is a faint sideways 2 on the inlet hump, and on the lower right flat part there is Made In The USA, and below that is 5741.
5) The starter is 1108389 OG 6 1. Below that is Made In The USA. I think this is the correct one and it looks like it has never been off the car. Is the date code right for a Jan 70 car? I don't know how this dating code works.
6) The power steering belt looks to be original to the car. Has the GM number, but it also says Dayco on it. P/S hoses also are original but very tired. Going to send it and the gearbox off to the guy in Missouri who rebuilds and details them.
Happy New Year
Last edited by costpenn; December 30th, 2013 at 08:12 PM.
December 30th, 2013, 08:09 PM
#115
Crap. I thought it was correct since it has a big X on it, but taking the pulley off today revealed the "ugly underneath". Do you have one for sale?
December 30th, 2013, 08:21 PM
#116
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 573
Costpenn, beautiful car and a nice find!!! I love the original cars!
Very interesting about the "Z" on the cowl tag so I checked my W cars........
Oct 69 built W30 - has the "Z"
Jan 70 built W31 - has the "Z"
Jun 70 built W30 - NO "Z"
The "Z" cars above were both delivered in Canada and both cars are column shift. Nothing else is the same between the 2 vehicles.
Puzzling........
Cheers,
Sam
Oct 69 built W30 - has the "Z"
Jan 70 built W31 - has the "Z"
Jun 70 built W30 - NO "Z"
The "Z" cars above were both delivered in Canada and both cars are column shift. Nothing else is the same between the 2 vehicles.
Puzzling........
Cheers,
Sam
December 30th, 2013, 08:49 PM
#119
December 31st, 2013, 05:36 AM
#120
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Melrose FL 32666
Posts: 425
1) Broken bolt day. The red wells are so nice - have to be careful here.
2) Also, the LH fender lip to the well bolts I believe have had the j nuts break. The bolt just spins and doesn't come out. I was trying to avoid pulling the fender off before taking it in for paint, but now I'm going to have to to pull it to get the well off, after I get the battery tray out!!!
Happy New Year
2) Also, the LH fender lip to the well bolts I believe have had the j nuts break. The bolt just spins and doesn't come out. I was trying to avoid pulling the fender off before taking it in for paint, but now I'm going to have to to pull it to get the well off, after I get the battery tray out!!!
Happy New Year
Steve
