Fell Into My Lap - Documented 1970 W-30
July 8th, 2014, 10:02 PM
#521
As long as I can see the light (2 1/2 hours)
Finished painting the engine pullies. The part number and code letters came out looking great. I painted both in the Duplicolor Ford semi gloss. Moved onto the radiator top plate which I decided to paint the underside of first. Will let that dry overnight, and will paint the topside first in a layer of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis satin, and then overspray with the Duplicolor. I want to get a smooth layer of that tough epoxy paint on, and then cover it with something a tiny but more glossy.
Moved onto disassembling the headlamp buckets, and getting the components ready for paint. The adjusting screws wirewheeled clean, and the 4 springs I wire brushed in place with the Dremel tool. The black plastic retainers I could not get any gloss out of with my usual tricks, so I will paint them with the black vinyl paint, and them mask them and the springs off before painting the plates themselves.
HELP - does anyone know why the 4 buckets themselves each have a different letter? Does this mean they go in a certain sequence?
Spent 30 minutes giving the fan a pretty detailed final sanding in preparation for painting tomorrow. Found a weird stamping on it. Hope this does not mean it isn't OE.
Started trying to do the "body work" on my rear bumper brackets to remove the pitting. This crap makes one hell of a holy mess when you sand it.
Wirewheeled my starter bracket and started on the air cleaner housing. The hot air flapper thing still works.
Got in my master cylinder cap from Steve G. I sent it flack to him for rework to remove some of the pitting and it came out looking great. He says these style Delco caps are getting tough to find in good enough condition to replate, and the repos aren't close to right (along with the boosters!) because they don't have the correct lettering.
Finished painting the engine pullies. The part number and code letters came out looking great. I painted both in the Duplicolor Ford semi gloss. Moved onto the radiator top plate which I decided to paint the underside of first. Will let that dry overnight, and will paint the topside first in a layer of the Eastwood Extreme Chassis satin, and then overspray with the Duplicolor. I want to get a smooth layer of that tough epoxy paint on, and then cover it with something a tiny but more glossy.
Moved onto disassembling the headlamp buckets, and getting the components ready for paint. The adjusting screws wirewheeled clean, and the 4 springs I wire brushed in place with the Dremel tool. The black plastic retainers I could not get any gloss out of with my usual tricks, so I will paint them with the black vinyl paint, and them mask them and the springs off before painting the plates themselves.
HELP - does anyone know why the 4 buckets themselves each have a different letter? Does this mean they go in a certain sequence?
Spent 30 minutes giving the fan a pretty detailed final sanding in preparation for painting tomorrow. Found a weird stamping on it. Hope this does not mean it isn't OE.
Started trying to do the "body work" on my rear bumper brackets to remove the pitting. This crap makes one hell of a holy mess when you sand it.
Wirewheeled my starter bracket and started on the air cleaner housing. The hot air flapper thing still works.
Got in my master cylinder cap from Steve G. I sent it flack to him for rework to remove some of the pitting and it came out looking great. He says these style Delco caps are getting tough to find in good enough condition to replate, and the repos aren't close to right (along with the boosters!) because they don't have the correct lettering.
Last edited by costpenn; July 8th, 2014 at 10:08 PM.
July 9th, 2014, 06:43 AM
#523
Lance
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: YUKON, OK.
Posts: 742
HELP - does anyone know why the 4 buckets themselves each have a different letter? Does this mean they go in a certain sequence?
Spent 30 minutes giving the fan a pretty detailed final sanding in preparation for painting tomorrow. Found a weird stamping on it. Hope this does not mean it isn't OE.
Got in my master cylinder cap from Steve G. I sent it flack to him for rework to remove some of the pitting and it came out looking great. He says these style Delco caps are getting tough to find in good enough condition to replate, and the repos aren't close to right (along with the boosters!) because they don't have the correct lettering.
Spent 30 minutes giving the fan a pretty detailed final sanding in preparation for painting tomorrow. Found a weird stamping on it. Hope this does not mean it isn't OE.
Got in my master cylinder cap from Steve G. I sent it flack to him for rework to remove some of the pitting and it came out looking great. He says these style Delco caps are getting tough to find in good enough condition to replate, and the repos aren't close to right (along with the boosters!) because they don't have the correct lettering.
Yes, the "ERX" stamped 19" 6 blade fan is the correct fan for your car.
BTW, that is a very nice one year only master cylinder cover with the correct "USE SAE J1703" script!!!
July 9th, 2014, 08:59 PM
#524
Is ERX the manufacturer? I could not find a P/N anywhere on the fan except for a "FRONT" stamped on it.
July 9th, 2014, 09:16 PM
#525
Morning and evening session today (total 4 1/2 hours)
This morning I painted the following:
Headlamp buckets (4) - Eastwood Satin Black
Headlamp brackets (LH & RH) - Duplicolor Semi Flat Black bumper paint
Fan & Radiator Top Plate Duplicolor Ford Semi Gloss Black. (Tried a little of the epoxy paint on the plate and did not like the appearance.)
Let them dry during the day, then reassembled the headlamp holder assemblies. Then went on to completely hand sand the air cleaner housing first in 220, then 400 in preparation for paint tomorrow. I am going to try to paint it in Glossy Black Lacquer - hope it turns out OK. Also sanded down the spot filler of the rear bumper brackets, and will paint tomorrow as well.
No worky tomorrow night - going to the Queen concert. Tie Your Mother Down.
This morning I painted the following:
Headlamp buckets (4) - Eastwood Satin Black
Headlamp brackets (LH & RH) - Duplicolor Semi Flat Black bumper paint
Fan & Radiator Top Plate Duplicolor Ford Semi Gloss Black. (Tried a little of the epoxy paint on the plate and did not like the appearance.)
Let them dry during the day, then reassembled the headlamp holder assemblies. Then went on to completely hand sand the air cleaner housing first in 220, then 400 in preparation for paint tomorrow. I am going to try to paint it in Glossy Black Lacquer - hope it turns out OK. Also sanded down the spot filler of the rear bumper brackets, and will paint tomorrow as well.
No worky tomorrow night - going to the Queen concert. Tie Your Mother Down.
July 10th, 2014, 02:02 PM
#526
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 1,587
July 11th, 2014, 10:21 PM
#527
No pics, no work, just update (0 hours)
Thanks for the referral Lance - today I picked up the trans from Jeff at Plano Transmission. He says the thing was in excellent condition except for the modulator being rusted in place. He had to put some time into extracting it without damaging the body. He says he's never in 35 years of doing TH400's seen one stuck like that. The modulator was beyond repair, but he had a old style big can 400 modulator in stock.I will need to do done final detail work before reinstalling, but overall very pleased with his work and the fact he did it himself.
He left the pan and gov. cover nude. He says all the people painting those things black are doing it to prevent rust, but they were never like that from the factory. Mine showed no evidence of ever being painted. Converter was good - he just drained and flushed it.
Where the big yellow OW stencil will need to go is pretty self explanatory since like the driveshaft stripes, the paint provided a layer of protection that has the underlying metal look different than the metal around it. On my driveshaft, I thought I had written the dimensions down wrong since the rear stripe uni my notes measured a different width than the front stripe (about 1/8 narrower) but when I looked at the metal after sanding, it was correct. They were not the same width when originally painted. If anyone needs a good OE width and location reference see my pics above, although I cannot vouch for how correct the shades of the blue and brown stripes are.
Painted the air cleaner gloss lacquer) and rear bumper brackets (Eastwood Satin Chassis black) yesterday. Housing will be OK, but bumper brackets have the filler clearly showing through. This is why I can never be a paint and body guy.
Vastine's sent me a pic on a Facebook of my car temporarily reassembled for block sanding. So far the gaps and body lines look very straight and proportioned. Will probably now be bringing the rolling frame home a week from Monday to begin disassembly. Chomping at the bit to get it home since there will be more work to do then!
Thanks for the referral Lance - today I picked up the trans from Jeff at Plano Transmission. He says the thing was in excellent condition except for the modulator being rusted in place. He had to put some time into extracting it without damaging the body. He says he's never in 35 years of doing TH400's seen one stuck like that. The modulator was beyond repair, but he had a old style big can 400 modulator in stock.I will need to do done final detail work before reinstalling, but overall very pleased with his work and the fact he did it himself.
He left the pan and gov. cover nude. He says all the people painting those things black are doing it to prevent rust, but they were never like that from the factory. Mine showed no evidence of ever being painted. Converter was good - he just drained and flushed it.
Where the big yellow OW stencil will need to go is pretty self explanatory since like the driveshaft stripes, the paint provided a layer of protection that has the underlying metal look different than the metal around it. On my driveshaft, I thought I had written the dimensions down wrong since the rear stripe uni my notes measured a different width than the front stripe (about 1/8 narrower) but when I looked at the metal after sanding, it was correct. They were not the same width when originally painted. If anyone needs a good OE width and location reference see my pics above, although I cannot vouch for how correct the shades of the blue and brown stripes are.
Painted the air cleaner gloss lacquer) and rear bumper brackets (Eastwood Satin Chassis black) yesterday. Housing will be OK, but bumper brackets have the filler clearly showing through. This is why I can never be a paint and body guy.
Vastine's sent me a pic on a Facebook of my car temporarily reassembled for block sanding. So far the gaps and body lines look very straight and proportioned. Will probably now be bringing the rolling frame home a week from Monday to begin disassembly. Chomping at the bit to get it home since there will be more work to do then!
July 16th, 2014, 08:43 PM
#528
No work - on vacation in Puerto Rico. Having a great time, weather is beautiful, staying at great resort, yet in the back of my mind - always - is getting back to work on the car.
July 19th, 2014, 04:42 PM
#529
Back in town, and back at it (3 hours)
Went back and repainted the rear bumper brackets after sanding the filler used to fill the pits a little more. Still not perfect, but much better with most of the pits gone or partially filled in. Redid the air cleaner base in Acrylic Black Lacquer after sanding down the previous coat with 600. It took out that dry spray finish I hate, and looks wetter/blacker (?) also redid the back of the fan because of similar dry spray problems. It was worth the rework.
Also today began detailling the OW trans after getting it back from rebuilding. I am having to use a variety of hand and power wire brushes to clean this thing and get a nice finish. Getting close to finishing the DS - next week I will finish the other side, and then detail things like the trans pan, gov. cover, rail housing bolts, gear selector crank, fill tube and dipstick etc...
Will post this here, but might also post in the 442 section. We all know about the big yellow code letters on the bell housing, but mine also has something that looks like a small 4 before it. Anyone know anything about this?
Went back and repainted the rear bumper brackets after sanding the filler used to fill the pits a little more. Still not perfect, but much better with most of the pits gone or partially filled in. Redid the air cleaner base in Acrylic Black Lacquer after sanding down the previous coat with 600. It took out that dry spray finish I hate, and looks wetter/blacker (?) also redid the back of the fan because of similar dry spray problems. It was worth the rework.
Also today began detailling the OW trans after getting it back from rebuilding. I am having to use a variety of hand and power wire brushes to clean this thing and get a nice finish. Getting close to finishing the DS - next week I will finish the other side, and then detail things like the trans pan, gov. cover, rail housing bolts, gear selector crank, fill tube and dipstick etc...
Will post this here, but might also post in the 442 section. We all know about the big yellow code letters on the bell housing, but mine also has something that looks like a small 4 before it. Anyone know anything about this?
Last edited by costpenn; July 19th, 2014 at 04:45 PM.
July 23rd, 2014, 08:37 PM
#530
Missed yesterday's entry (2 1/2 hours yesterday, 4 hours today - total 6 1/2)
Finished the transmission this evening. Summary of work done by me after receiving the unit back from the rebuilder
1) Removed all the exterior accessories i.e dipstick tube, modulator etc..
2) Taped off all holes leading to trans interior
3) Wire brushed with various tools the case to remove corrosion and scale - this was 60% of the work I did
4) Removed the pan. Sanded, then wire wheeled, then shot with the Krylon clear rust inhibitor paint.
5) Removed tail cover and gov. cover bolts. Wire wheeled and painted in phosphate paint.
6) Removed governor cover and wire wheeled. Painted in the same clear rust inhibitor paint used on the pan
7) Wirewheeled the dipstick handle and tube. Cleared the handle, but painted the tube in the Eastwood silver cad.
8) Painted the gear selector bell crank thing in the flat olive green paint.
9) Installed the gear shift cable bracket. Amazingly, the original plating on it was still good.
10) Installed the detailed harness clip
11) Installed the OW decal over my original still riveted in place tag. Man, that piece is nice - thanks Paul!
12) Painted the modulator and speedo hold in plates in Camoflauge black paint and reinstalled with phosphate painted bolts.
Tomorrow engine reassembly begins.
Finished the transmission this evening. Summary of work done by me after receiving the unit back from the rebuilder
1) Removed all the exterior accessories i.e dipstick tube, modulator etc..
2) Taped off all holes leading to trans interior
3) Wire brushed with various tools the case to remove corrosion and scale - this was 60% of the work I did
4) Removed the pan. Sanded, then wire wheeled, then shot with the Krylon clear rust inhibitor paint.
5) Removed tail cover and gov. cover bolts. Wire wheeled and painted in phosphate paint.
6) Removed governor cover and wire wheeled. Painted in the same clear rust inhibitor paint used on the pan
7) Wirewheeled the dipstick handle and tube. Cleared the handle, but painted the tube in the Eastwood silver cad.
8) Painted the gear selector bell crank thing in the flat olive green paint.
9) Installed the gear shift cable bracket. Amazingly, the original plating on it was still good.
10) Installed the detailed harness clip
11) Installed the OW decal over my original still riveted in place tag. Man, that piece is nice - thanks Paul!
12) Painted the modulator and speedo hold in plates in Camoflauge black paint and reinstalled with phosphate painted bolts.
Tomorrow engine reassembly begins.
July 24th, 2014, 03:46 AM
#532
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,535
My transmission guy wanted me to go with the new updated modulator and only use my original one for shows. My original one is good and not sure what the difference is but I think after I get some miles on the car I am going to switch back to the original one. I am not likely going to put more than 1000 miles per year on it anyway.
July 24th, 2014, 09:28 PM
#533
My transmission guy wanted me to go with the new updated modulator and only use my original one for shows. My original one is good and not sure what the difference is but I think after I get some miles on the car I am going to switch back to the original one. I am not likely going to put more than 1000 miles per year on it anyway.
By the way, I painted the side marker brackets- they came out looking great.
July 25th, 2014, 05:23 AM
#534
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 624
While I had the floor pans out of my car I decided to replace the spedo cable, transmission pan gasket, dipstick o ring, and the modulator valve - I ended up picking up an old style black one on ebay for $60
July 25th, 2014, 06:09 AM
#536
Started engine building but...(2 hours)
Began assembling the engine after painting the front side marker light brackets received from Eric. (You really need to go up on your prices) Pit free parts are so much easier to get a good finish on.
Began the motor build after reconfiguring the workspace, and cleaning the floors, shelves etc to get rid of loose dust and grime from all the wire wheeling and sanding. Installed the 400165 cam I pulled out of my 68 A/C Hurst (63k miles), but after sleeping on it overnight, I am worried about ANY problems I might have - especially after all the issues I had last year with the '72. At my company we just bought a Cam Doc, so I'm going to pull it back out and at least check the lift on all the lobes. The Hurst was running very well when I pulled it out of the engine, and the journals look brand new, but I can't stand the thought of having to go back into the motor because of a bad lobe.
Began assembling the engine after painting the front side marker light brackets received from Eric. (You really need to go up on your prices) Pit free parts are so much easier to get a good finish on.
Began the motor build after reconfiguring the workspace, and cleaning the floors, shelves etc to get rid of loose dust and grime from all the wire wheeling and sanding. Installed the 400165 cam I pulled out of my 68 A/C Hurst (63k miles), but after sleeping on it overnight, I am worried about ANY problems I might have - especially after all the issues I had last year with the '72. At my company we just bought a Cam Doc, so I'm going to pull it back out and at least check the lift on all the lobes. The Hurst was running very well when I pulled it out of the engine, and the journals look brand new, but I can't stand the thought of having to go back into the motor because of a bad lobe.
Last edited by costpenn; July 25th, 2014 at 06:12 AM.
July 30th, 2014, 07:31 AM
#540
No real work done- just final parts gathering
Still not satisfied with the color of the painted jack parts. I had enough Dove gray to paint the handle, but can't find more of the correct shade anywhere. Going to have to go on the 'net to see if I can find some - anyone have any ideas?
Sent off the intake to Patton to see what he can do to get the right OE appearance on it. Chris got the thing laser straight and compensated the end seal surfaces.
Frame should be ready for pick up from my painter this Friday. I will start stripping it down this weekend. Hoping for minimal rust issues.
Decided after all to replace the cam. Got one on the way from Supercars Unlimited.
Repainted the transmission dipstick tube a darker primer type color as suggested by a fellow CO member.
Can reuse the original master cylinder cover gasket. After a LOT of careful cleaning, it came out sevicable.
Pics below of repo rear control arms bought off of Rock
Still not satisfied with the color of the painted jack parts. I had enough Dove gray to paint the handle, but can't find more of the correct shade anywhere. Going to have to go on the 'net to see if I can find some - anyone have any ideas?
Sent off the intake to Patton to see what he can do to get the right OE appearance on it. Chris got the thing laser straight and compensated the end seal surfaces.
Frame should be ready for pick up from my painter this Friday. I will start stripping it down this weekend. Hoping for minimal rust issues.
Decided after all to replace the cam. Got one on the way from Supercars Unlimited.
Repainted the transmission dipstick tube a darker primer type color as suggested by a fellow CO member.
Can reuse the original master cylinder cover gasket. After a LOT of careful cleaning, it came out sevicable.
Pics below of repo rear control arms bought off of Rock
Last edited by costpenn; July 30th, 2014 at 07:37 AM.
July 30th, 2014, 08:44 AM
#542
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,535
I got a can of jack paint from inline tube. I am not a professional at color matching but it looked to me that it was the exact match to some used originals I have. The used ones I have were dirty. I wet sanded a couple spots with 2000 and polished it real good to try getting the original color. Before that the originals looked darker than the inline tube paint.
July 30th, 2014, 07:40 PM
#544
Good luck on your resto modding!!
July 30th, 2014, 07:44 PM
#546
I got a can of jack paint from inline tube. I am not a professional at color matching but it looked to me that it was the exact match to some used originals I have. The used ones I have were dirty. I wet sanded a couple spots with 2000 and polished it real good to try getting the original color. Before that the originals looked darker than the inline tube paint.
August 3rd, 2014, 08:27 PM
#547
Looking for something to do so (5 hours)
Spent three hours revising and tightening up my parts and services spreadsheet I am keeping on the car. Still don't know about additional steering suspension components or rear end rebuilding parts I will need, but I think I have a total - about 3150.00 - I will need to spend with the restoration specialty vendors:
Fusick - 380.00
In Line Tube - 1080.00
The Parts Place 1375.00
Ames - 260.00
I still think I will come in around 58K total including purchase price. I originally estimated around 45K total with the paint and body being the major cost overrun.
Also started detailling out the console. It is in excellent shape. Various things done include removing the rear lens and touching up with a paint pen the accent box, steel wooling the stainless and pot metal trims, brushing and vacuuming out the inside, cleaning the lid underside, detailling the latch and hinge (the hinge attaching lip broke at one time, and someone did a very sturdy, if visually incorrect repair) and removing the old adhesive off the insert where the bezel sits.
Really, really will be getting be getting my frame back tomorrow - I think???
Spent three hours revising and tightening up my parts and services spreadsheet I am keeping on the car. Still don't know about additional steering suspension components or rear end rebuilding parts I will need, but I think I have a total - about 3150.00 - I will need to spend with the restoration specialty vendors:
Fusick - 380.00
In Line Tube - 1080.00
The Parts Place 1375.00
Ames - 260.00
I still think I will come in around 58K total including purchase price. I originally estimated around 45K total with the paint and body being the major cost overrun.
Also started detailling out the console. It is in excellent shape. Various things done include removing the rear lens and touching up with a paint pen the accent box, steel wooling the stainless and pot metal trims, brushing and vacuuming out the inside, cleaning the lid underside, detailling the latch and hinge (the hinge attaching lip broke at one time, and someone did a very sturdy, if visually incorrect repair) and removing the old adhesive off the insert where the bezel sits.
Really, really will be getting be getting my frame back tomorrow - I think???
Last edited by costpenn; August 3rd, 2014 at 08:30 PM.
August 4th, 2014, 05:25 AM
#549
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 624
Fusicks and Inline tube have great products... I use to like the parts place but got burned on an exhaust I bought from them.... It appears their website and ebay stores are run by two different parts of the business. The exhaust I ordered was supposed to be to OEM specs and it is a cheap piece of crap that was stamped in Canada. The website said I needed to deal with ebay and the people on ebay were jerks. I have purchased 5K in parts from them and will never spend another nickel with them.
August 4th, 2014, 08:29 PM
#551
Fusicks and Inline tube have great products... I use to like the parts place but got burned on an exhaust I bought from them.... It appears their website and ebay stores are run by two different parts of the business. The exhaust I ordered was supposed to be to OEM specs and it is a cheap piece of crap that was stamped in Canada. The website said I needed to deal with ebay and the people on ebay were jerks. I have purchased 5K in parts from them and will never spend another nickel with them.
August 4th, 2014, 09:29 PM
#552
No work on actual car, but the rolling frame is home
Spent the day preparing for getting my frame back. Called Sparky's to see about replating my OAI motor. He has never done one, but he says send it and he'll see what he can do. The unit works, but the di-chromate plating is totally gone. I took a close look at the repos. The actuating arm has a sharper bend to it since it looks like the center can has a greater offset to the bracket than the OE one does. There are also a few small holes along the forward edge of the can that the repo does not have as well.
The dual gate sliding cover is ready for pick up. It was 43.50 to re chrome, but again, the repo parts are different. I believe they are considerably lighter gauge metal than the OE part.
Rented a u-Haul car trailer to bring the frame home. Got to Brian's but they were still blocking the hood to fender lines. I will have never had a car have such nice level gaps between body panels. The guys removed the core support, fenders and got the car up in the air to begin removing the body bolts. I was fearful of rust, and was not disappointed
1) the front two had to be cut in half (above the frame rail and below the puck) The nuts were rusted solid onto the bolts
2) the six intermediate pucks with no bolts had little corrosion between them and the metal
3) the two just aft of the axle were the worst. The drivers side bolt had already broken off before, and the passenger side one broke off AND broke off the captured nut in the trunk floor brace. Both holes in the braces are wasted but the drivers side looks big enough to push the complete puck into.
4) the rearmost two were a mixed bag. The passenger side one came out just fine (the only one) but the drivers side bolt just spun, so again the sawzall came out.
The frame looks to be generally OK. The only two holes that have metal wastage are the passenger side core support, and front body mount. Did a quickie hammer test and did not find any obvious soft spots.
Also, it seems only the bushings that have the bolt going through them had the green paint on them. Are the 6 without bolts supposed to be black only?
Got very detailed pics of fuel/brake line routings as well as bracket and clamp orientation. The Gabriel Red Ryder shocks on the front are a hoot, but those vintage air shocks on the back make it seem like 1975. Rear end cover has been off, but whoever did it put the limited slip tag back on - if in the wrong spot. Center link will need to be changed and I was wrong - the idler arm is the OE one and nothing on the front end except shocks has ever been replaced.
So much to do and I can't wait to get started.
Spent the day preparing for getting my frame back. Called Sparky's to see about replating my OAI motor. He has never done one, but he says send it and he'll see what he can do. The unit works, but the di-chromate plating is totally gone. I took a close look at the repos. The actuating arm has a sharper bend to it since it looks like the center can has a greater offset to the bracket than the OE one does. There are also a few small holes along the forward edge of the can that the repo does not have as well.
The dual gate sliding cover is ready for pick up. It was 43.50 to re chrome, but again, the repo parts are different. I believe they are considerably lighter gauge metal than the OE part.
Rented a u-Haul car trailer to bring the frame home. Got to Brian's but they were still blocking the hood to fender lines. I will have never had a car have such nice level gaps between body panels. The guys removed the core support, fenders and got the car up in the air to begin removing the body bolts. I was fearful of rust, and was not disappointed
1) the front two had to be cut in half (above the frame rail and below the puck) The nuts were rusted solid onto the bolts
2) the six intermediate pucks with no bolts had little corrosion between them and the metal
3) the two just aft of the axle were the worst. The drivers side bolt had already broken off before, and the passenger side one broke off AND broke off the captured nut in the trunk floor brace. Both holes in the braces are wasted but the drivers side looks big enough to push the complete puck into.
4) the rearmost two were a mixed bag. The passenger side one came out just fine (the only one) but the drivers side bolt just spun, so again the sawzall came out.
The frame looks to be generally OK. The only two holes that have metal wastage are the passenger side core support, and front body mount. Did a quickie hammer test and did not find any obvious soft spots.
Also, it seems only the bushings that have the bolt going through them had the green paint on them. Are the 6 without bolts supposed to be black only?
Got very detailed pics of fuel/brake line routings as well as bracket and clamp orientation. The Gabriel Red Ryder shocks on the front are a hoot, but those vintage air shocks on the back make it seem like 1975. Rear end cover has been off, but whoever did it put the limited slip tag back on - if in the wrong spot. Center link will need to be changed and I was wrong - the idler arm is the OE one and nothing on the front end except shocks has ever been replaced.
So much to do and I can't wait to get started.
Last edited by costpenn; August 4th, 2014 at 09:46 PM.
August 5th, 2014, 05:03 AM
#555
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: milwaukee
Posts: 548
August 5th, 2014, 05:05 AM
#556
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: milwaukee
Posts: 548
The assembly manual shows what mounts go where and what colors. I was able to mix my own batch to color them.I sent you a pm about Sharing some photos? I could post some here instead (didnt want to without permission) so as to not post on your thread.bodymounts.jpg
August 5th, 2014, 08:39 PM
#557
Hello, I sent a email to you mid last week, but for some reason it was not delivered, and I only got the notification on Monday morning!! Please post those undercarriage pics here on the thread.
Brian is doing all the body work on the frame, he just used the lift to remove the body from the frame. He is going to mount it on a rotisserie to paint the shell and underside.
Thanks!!
August 6th, 2014, 06:08 AM
#559
[QUOTE=costpenn;729919]Looking for something to do so (5 hours)
Spent three hours revising and tightening up my parts and services spreadsheet . - I will need to spend with the restoration specialty vendors:
Fusick - 380.00
In Line Tube - 1080.00
The Parts Place 1375.00
Ames - 260.00
Joe, just spent some time this morning catching up on your project. Great work and progress. Very impressive. Make sure you are backing up your computer if you keep your spreadsheet and pics on it. About half way through my build the computer crashed and I lost my spreadsheet and 1/2 my reference photos from disassembly. Lesson learned. Also we tend to hear the horror stories on Vendors but I had some really good experiences w/TPP taking back some parts I ordered in error. Over a year had passed between the order and when I discovered they were the wrong part. The mistake was mine and they were very helpful.
Spent three hours revising and tightening up my parts and services spreadsheet . - I will need to spend with the restoration specialty vendors:
Fusick - 380.00
In Line Tube - 1080.00
The Parts Place 1375.00
Ames - 260.00
Joe, just spent some time this morning catching up on your project. Great work and progress. Very impressive. Make sure you are backing up your computer if you keep your spreadsheet and pics on it. About half way through my build the computer crashed and I lost my spreadsheet and 1/2 my reference photos from disassembly. Lesson learned. Also we tend to hear the horror stories on Vendors but I had some really good experiences w/TPP taking back some parts I ordered in error. Over a year had passed between the order and when I discovered they were the wrong part. The mistake was mine and they were very helpful.
