71 OLDS

Unfortunately my 10+ year old Stewart Warner speedometer wont stop "sticking". I got it all dialed in and accurate but it sticks so much that I'm not 100% confident how fast I'm going. Because it's so old and they no longer make it my only option is to send it off to be fixed or order a new speedometer that matches with all my other gauges so it still looks correct and I don't have to replace them all.

On a positive note I'm really happy with the speedometer I found. So happy that I'm buying the matching tach to go with it. It's from a company called Speed Hut and looks the same as my Stewart Warner one but it's a GPS speedo which allows it to have lots of high tech new features including a compass, digital mph, clock, 0 -60 times, 1/4 mile time and mph, and the standard trip features. The coolest thing about this company is that it allows you to add a small custom logo for $10. I found an Olds Rocket that worked with their requirements and ordered them today. Here's a pic of each one:

1213_zpswm2ob2rq.png

abc_zpsrzfffrfl.png

Troys Toy 70

That's a cool gauge set-up. Sounds like you are happy with the engine work this time around. You did a great job getting the OAI set up to work with the tourqer.

dfire25

Someone else on here used Speed Hut gauges. I really like them. I wish I would have seen those before I purchased my Rallye Pack gauges. FWIW, this is the route I would go. I like the chrome bezels you can put in them to make them look more factory style.

Oops! Bad link. They won't let you copy the custom imagine I guess.

http://www.speedhut.com/images/gauge...ACY_CHROME.png

ctosiflying

Do you mean these? They work great!!!!

dfire25

I wasn't referring to you ctosiflying, but WOW! Those look AWESOME! The only thing I would add is the chrome bezels around the needles, but I understand why you didn't add them. That was a 70-72 thing, not 68-69. Very nice though.

71 OLDS

Thanks - real happy with most things on the car now. Just trying to get all the little things worked out and dialed in. It will be nice to have a working and accurate speedometer soon!! Need to get the AC figured out then get the reverse lights hooked up. Having issues with the drivers side pwr window and the windshield wiper motor now. It's always something. Once I get all this worked out I'll need to say bye bye to the car for a while for all the paint and body work. May wait for the winter - we'll see. Enjoying the car way too much right now!! Also want to take the car to an 1/8 mile track that's about an hour away to practice launching with the manual trans and these drag radials. I need LOTS of practice.

71 OLDS

I agree those do look nice. I think this speed hut company is on to a good thing with their gauges. Nicest ones I've seen in a while and lots of cool features and options!!

71 OLDS

The metal bracket that goes from the frame to the Z bar broke in half on a drive last night. Clutch went to the floor. Have to get a new bracket welded on and see if anything else got damaged in the process. Will be off the road for a while

71 OLDS

I custom ordered a new shift ball from Speed Dawg. Hard to tell in the pics but it's twice the size of the stock ball (cue ball size) and has the correct pattern for my Richmond 5 speed. Looking forward to banging through the gears with this when the z bar bracket is replaced/fixed. It took 5 weeks for it to be made but unbelievably was only $30

IMG_1108_zpsqyinyezt.jpg

IMG_1106_zps8rvoggdp.jpg

71 OLDS

Still waiting on the bracket to arrive to replace the one that snapped in half (from frame to Z bar) that caused the clutch to go to the floor. In the mean time a local shop here in Virginia Beach (Rory and Son's) is making good progress with my AC. Will add the detail here in case anyone else runs into this. All the parts of the AC have been upgraded new aluminum compressor (cut the weight in half), new condenser, new POA valve, all new hoses, full R134 conversion - however there were still several problems: 1. The car would not idle without stalling with the AC on, 2. There was a huge power surge when it came on 3. It was not blowing out properly in the interior/vents 4 It is missing the duct that goes to the driver's side vent but found one on Ebay and ordered it.

So...yesterday lot of positives for the AC. To deal with the idle issue, I ordered a solenoid that goes with my Holley Street Avenger carb. This little solenoid attaches to the throttle and when the AC is turned on increases the idle to a point where the car won't stall.
IMG_1110_zpso8smytcq.jpg

Sounds easy enough but like everything else, it's not. The A6 compressors cycle on and off as the AC is running so every time this happens the solenoid would drop its hold on the throttle and the car would stall. Solution was to add a toggle switch in the interior that keeps the solenoid on at all times while the AC is on regardless of whether or not the compressor is cycling on or off. This has all been hooked up and is working like a charm now. I turn on the toggle switch and touch the gas pedal once and the solenoid pushes up the idle to about 1400 RPM. Then turn on the AC and it drops to about 1100 RPM and idles nice an smooth.

Next issue was the power surge. Turns out this was related to my electric fans. Apparently all the new cars have an overide that when the AC is turned on, the electric fans come on and stay on the entire time. What I didn't know is my elec fans thermostat setup (hidden away in my fake battery shell) had a spot open and ready for the AC to be hooked up to. The guys wired it properly and all good there. Now when the AC is turned on the elec fans come on and stay on until the AC is turned off then it goes back to the thermostat settings.

The not blowing on the inside through the vents turned out to be a vacuum line that was not hooked up correctly behind the dash.

So I 3 of the 4 issues are resolved now. I sat in the car and tested everything and it blows ICE cold at idle on an 80 degree day here in Virginia Beach and idle is smooth right around 1100 RPM. Turn the AC and toggle switch off and it drops back down to about 800 with the nice lope from the cam coming back. Will have to do some real life testing with some hard core street driving and cruises with the AC on and off to see how well it's working, does it stay cold at all times?, any power loss issue while it's on? etc etc Will add some details when I do. Still have to add the duct for the drivers side vent but will get to that down the road.

71 OLDS

Broken z bar bracket has been replaced and all is good there. The one that broke was NOT correct. It was a custom skinny piece of metal that was welded on. The stock correct piece is bolted to the frame and is much thicker metal. Hoping it can hold up to the abuse I'm going to create banging through the gears for many many years.

Custom reverse light switch was added to the Richmond 5 speed. Works great and I don't have to have the car in reverse or 5th to take the key out.

Got lots of driving in with the AC over the last few days. It's been in the 90s and 100% humidity here in Virginia Beach and the AC worked like a champ and kept me nice a cool driving around. It's bad *** to be in a convertible with the windows and top up at a stop light on a 90 degree day. This is my 13th 442 or Cutlass for my lifetime and I've NEVER had working cold AC in any of my cars. What a concept!! So I tried to get on it a few times with the AC on and the butt dyno feels like about a 20% drop in power. Still cool to light em up with the AC blowing cold but definitely a power sucker.

That's all the good news. Bad news I have 2 new issues that came up with all this heat. Oil temp is hitting the 240 degree mark after about 30 min of driving in this extreme heat and humidity - especially with the AC on and me getting on it. Then related to this I started to have some vapor lock. Very strange. When this happens the RPMS just don't want to go above about 4000 and it runs like crap. As soon as the temps cool down the lost power and RPMs are back. I think for starters I'm going to do an oil change. I've got about 1,500 miles on the new motor and it's a regular 10/40 blend used to break the motor in. I think I'm going to swap it out for some mobile one synthetic and see if that helps bring the oil temps down a little. If not a may consider adding an oil cooler. I know 240 degrees isn't terrible but if it starts to creep up higher that will concern me and keep me from getting on it. The water temps are staying around 160 -180 but I have the dual electric fans and huge Be Cool aluminum radiator keeping that cool. The oil is still crystal clear, there's good oil pressure, and no smoke or anything so I don't think there's an issue but I want to be able to drive the car hard in any conditions without any worries so I will get this worked out one way or the other.

I talked to Frank Trimble (my engine builder) about his custom fuel pump and he has a plan for the fuel lines to help with the vapor lock. Will definitely make some changes there to prevent that from happening.

71 OLDS

Oil change is done - went with Mobile 1 Synthetic 10/40 per the suggestion of my engine builder. Also did some carb tuning. It's always run a little rich. Both idle mixture screws on the 770 Holley street avenger were out 2 turns. I tried turning them in 1/4 turn at a time and both the idle and vacuum went up all the way to a full turn. So now they are only one turn out instead of 2. The air fuel gauge shows around 12.5 to 13 now instead of being pegged at 12 (the lowest reading) meaning it was probably less than 12. Pulled some plugs and they showed the expected results that it needs to be leaned out. May drop down a size in Jets but will check the plugs again in a few weeks.

Also having some other strange issues with the carb. It usually idles around 850 when warmed up but now when I drive it, it won't go below 1,100 when I stop unless I tap the gas. Almost like the choke is sticking or something is binding. Also the first 1/2" or so of the gas pedal/throttle when leaving from a stop is "sticking". It won't let me leave the line slow. I have to get it past this sticking point which makes me lurch off the line from a dead stop. I can also feel it stick on the 1-2 shift when I'm Granny driving. I wondering if these 2 issues are related. Trying to trouble shoot both. Won't do much driving until these 2 are fixed. Not fun to drive like this.

71 OLDS

New GPS Speedo and tach arrived today:
IIqtK20.jpg

Hope to get these installed in a few weeks. Really happy with how they came out. Love the Olds rocket on there!!

71 OLDS

Carb issue has been solved. We figured out a much tighter throttle spring eliminates the idle not coming down at stops (staying way up at 1100 to even 1500) but made the gas pedal super hard and the car almost not able to be driven at slow speeds, then a soft spring eliminated the hard gas pedal and made for easy slow starts but then the idle wouldn't come back down from the higher RPMs w/o tapping the gas pedal and sometimes that didn't work. The carb guy I was working with suggested going with a medium spring that was just enough to pull the RPMs down at stops and then suggested moving the throttle cable ball attachment to a higher hole on the carb bracket for better leverage with less effort. Once moved the pedal was soft and the RPMs come down with the medium spring. Can't believe how easy the fix was. Below is the "before" pic. The ball/cable was moved to that empty hole just above where it is now:

IMG_1110_zpso8smytcq.jpg

71 OLDS

Had more issues that came up. Electrical this time. My subwoofers (2 x 10" JLs) blew which is not the end the of the world or that surprising since they are 15 yrs old but the chain of events that happened from there was very frustrating. I stopped by my local stereo guy but he's was booked up for a week and as I was leaving his shop I got a pop up on my phone that my battery was low. That is a feature on the new alarm system I didn't even know I had. I looked at my volts gauge and sure enough it was showing around 9 or 10 volts. My battery is in the trunk so I checked it out. It's a yellowtop Optima and they usually last forever. The date showed 2012 so I figured it must have lived it's life. Found the best deal and replaced it. Drove the car again and still got the pop up and sure enough the volts were back down again but this time with the new battery. I called the stereo guy to see if he had any ideas and he said when you have blown subs and the amp keeps pushing 500 watts to the subs it could drain the battery. Go figure. So I disconnected the entire stereo including the amps/subs and the volts went up to about 12 but if I used any electrical items (AC, conv top, pwr windows etc) the volts would go back to 9 or 10 and not come back up. So I check my 15 year old 140 amp alternator and sure enough it wasn't charging. I got a new Powermaster alternator (150 amp this time) and all is good. Sadly my 2012 Optima battery was probably fine but strange that the subs and the alternator both died only a few days apart. Getting new subs installed tomorrow so hopefully will be all set on these issues and get back to all the other projects!!

-Joe

OldSoldier

What a trip you're on so far! For the subs, you can buy the foam surrounds and recondition them yourself for a lot less $ than buying new. I've done my computer subs (two 6.5") and my surround theater sub (8") and will be doing my olds subs this year (two 12"). It does sound like you've already purchased new, but it is an option when it comes time. My speakers sound brand new again and the repairs cost me about $25 for a kit.

Eddie Hansen

Wow love the build and the thread, looking forward to more updates , its making me get out into the shop lol

71 OLDS

Thanks Eddie - it's coming along slowly but surely.

OldSoldier - thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately both my JL Audio subs had holes in them. They were both 15 years old and had seen better days. I don't think there was any way to save them. But....the new sub is in and I'm very happy with it. Went with a kicker 12" this time instead of 2x10s. I think it sounds a little better than it did and it sounded great to begin with. It's called the Kicker Comp RT "loaded enclosure. Here's the detail on it:

Kicker's 43TCWRT124 loaded enclosure puts a thumping 12" CompRT subwoofer and a second passive sub behind the seat of a truck or in any vehicle that's low on space. The rugged sealed box was designed specifically for the subwoofer, so you can count on getting maximum performance, no matter what kind of tunes you enjoy. The second sub (called a "passive radiator") reacts to the air pressure produced by the active sub, creating lots more bass without producing any port noise.

Strange to see one of them is "passive" but the sound is amazing and the entire box setup was almost 10 lbs lighter than my previous one. Can't beat that. The box has to be small for my car since it's a convertible and the convertible top well has to remain open. This kit fit in the same spot perfectly so it was an easy decision especially when I heard how incredible it sounded. Here's a pic of the sub box:
g206TRT124-F_zpsqatepovk.jpg

71 OLDS

Painted white OLDSMOBILE letters on my breather and added the hose with the white line on it:

wTUboKO.jpg

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71 OLDS

Been a few weeks since I updated here. About 2 weeks ago was driving and all of a sudden there was a horrific noise with vibration and grinding. It sounded and felt like rocks in a blender. I was barely able to pull off the road. Had to push the car the last 20 yards or so to get to a safe spot. Shut the car off and looked around and under the car. Was expecting to see carnage of some kind. It all looked fine. Opened the hood. All looked fine. Started the car up and no issues. Went to let the clutch out - rocks in blender again. Put it in neutral and tried to let the clutch out. Rocks in a blender. Tried shifting through the gears with the clutch in - shifted like butter as always. So I knew it was trans related but not sure what it was. Called my local trans shop I use here in Virginia Beach (Rory and Son's) and they said they were booked up until yesterday. Had to have the car towed to my house where it sat for 2 weeks. Towed it over to the shop yesterday - diagnoses - multiple broken teeth on the 2nd gear main shaft and 2nd gear cluster on my Richmond 5 speed. They got all the teeth out and it appears there is no other damage. Going to order a new 2nd gear main shaft and cluster and a new throw out bearing from McLeod and have it put back together. Hoping to have it back on the road banging through the gears by next week. Really need this trans to hold up for a few more years until I can upgrade to the Magnum 6 speed. Way too many other projects to get done now (like all the paint and body). Hoping I can wait a few years on that....we'll see how it goes.

71 OLDS

New 2nd gears are back in the Richmond 5 speed and I had it back on the road today. Did a 6000 RPM shift after a good warm up and all seems good. Also got my last A/C duct installed on the drivers side while the new GPS Speedo and tach from Speedhut were installed. Really love these gauges so far. MPH is dead on (tracking tire size and RPM) and no sticking like I had before with my Stewart Warner speedo. Also has digital MPH in the little window as well as a compass, 0-60, 1/4 mile, elevation, clock, and highest speed. Tach works great too. Got the RPM and shift light all dialed in. Like it to go off at 5,600 for a 6,000 shift. Here are some pics I took today in the garage of the gauges. Sorry for the lighting but it still shows them pretty well:

cIsX2xp.jpg
RroSVPM.jpg

71 OLDS

I had some bad news last night. Took the car out for a 2nd drive with the new gears and the trans back in and the same thing happened again. Same horrific noise and situation as before so I'm sure I sheared some teeth off again. I guess this Richmond 5 speed just can't survive behind the almost 600 lb feet of torque the motor is putting out. Time for the 5 speed to come out and the Magnum 6 speed (rated to 700 lb feet) to go in it's place. I'm guessing that's it for me for 2016 with the 442. Will have the car towed to MD to Frank Trimble and get the trans ordered. It's no small undertaking with a new tunnel/hump having to be created to go around the massive 6 speed and trying to get the stock console to fit. I don't think this will be done before the winter hits so will probably have to wait for spring of '17 to have the car back on the road. Was hoping to get all the paint and body work done this winter but I guess that will have to wait especially with what the 6 speed and labor is going to cost me

71 OLDS

Going with the Magnum 6 speed rated at 700 ft lbs and will swap out my 3.31s for 4.10s

Here's what the #s will look like with the new trans and rear:

Magnum TR6060 6 speed (2.66, 1.78,1.30,1.00, .8, .63)

W: 4.10 gears & 305/45/18 Nitto DRs:

{28.78” tire}
1st = 4.10*2.66= 10.91 launch multiplier/ 2nd =4.10* 1.78 = 7.30 /3rd =4.10*1.30=5.33 4th =4.10*1.00=4.10
Shift points:
1-2 47 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4000 67%)
2-3 70 mph 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4400 73%)
3-4 96 mph 1/8th mile 6000 RPM (RPM drop to 4600 77%)
Cross traps for 1/4 mile at approx.: 117 mph = 5600 RPM (in 4th gear) w/current motor
125 mph =6000 RPM (in 4th gear) - room to grow (future stroker motor 650/650)

POWER RANGE = 4000 – 6000 (2000 RPM Power band)

2300 RPM = 60 MPH in 5th and 76 mph in 6th
65 mph in 5th gear @ 2500 RPM (W/28.78”)
70 mph in 6th gear @ 2100 RPM (W/28.78”)
75 mph in 6th gear @ 2263 RPM (W/28.78”)
80 mph in 6th gear @ 2413 RPM (W/28.78”)
150 mph in 6th gear @ 4525 RPM (W/28.78”)

71 OLDS

Here are some older pics I found of a T56 install w/the console. If I understand correctly the Magnum is a little bigger than the older T56 and will require even MORE cutting but I believe the location will be about the same. Note the shifter handle will be much further back than stock so the console will have to be as well.

t56inolds_zps8x4xu8q4.jpg

t56inolds4_zpsrudgr2nq.jpg
[URL="http://s303.photobucket.com/user/jl71442/media/T56ConsoleWithStick_zpsm325pftb.jpg.html"]

71 OLDS

t56inolds5_zpsbmdb0nkk.jpg
T56ConsoleWithStick_zpsm325pftb.jpg[/URL]

Magna86

Joe you can also move the shifter to the center location where the square plate is. They make a relocation kit to convert it. You can find the instructions online but I'm not sure it won't be too far forward for you.

RetroRanger

Sucks about the Richmond....600ft/lbs and 6k Rpm shifts Gotta be tough on the components hopefully the magnum stands up to it.....

71 OLDS

I'm probably going to go with this kit:

http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521...speed-kit.html

Hopefully it will help things line up closer to where things are now. We'll see

This was the same trans that was in the 2013 Viper (640/600), and 2014 GT500 (662/631). Both of them them had more power than me and HP max/shift points of 6200, and 6500 so I'm sure I'll be fine. I would like to upgrade the motor down the road to a stroker motor and try to get up to 650/650. The rating of 700 ft lbs gives me a little room to grow. The Richmond was only rated to 450 ft lbs so I knew I was pushing it. Hoping this will be the last trans I have to buy for the car. I'm going to drive it extremely hard like a always do. What's the point to have a car like this and not drive hard? I'm sure the Viper and GT500 owners are driving their cars hard too!!

71 OLDS

Finally stepped up and ordered the 6 speed today:
Magnum TR6060 6 speed (2.66, 1.78,1.30,1.00, .8, .63) should be arriving at the shop next week sometime. Next I need to get the car on a flat bed from VA to MD. Frank will be doing several projects this round including:
1. 6 speed install
2. swapping out 3.31 gears for 4.10 - going to keep the 3.31s in case I need to put them back in down the road if and when the motor is upgraded.
3. converting over to hyd clutch - going with the American powertrain one
4. adding an oil cooler
5. adding an electric fuel pump to help with vapor lock and the manual pump losing it's prime. Electric pump will only be used for these issues not run all the time.
6. Removing B-body spindles and replacing with AFX aluminum spindles - will also include swapping out upper control arms and front rotors so everything is compatible - going with the full SC&C kit. As well as a new Lee 800 steering box to replace my 12 year old leaking AGR box.
7. going from 500 front coil over springs to 600 - will keep 500s in case I need/want to swap them back some day but they are just a little too soft for my liking on the street. Great for launching not so great for corners.
8. Roll bar - full permanent 4 pt (main hoop and down bars) with built in shoulder harness front seat belts from a 2004 Nissan 350z convertible. The belts and part of the roll bar will be hidden in a custom enclosure built into where the armrest is right now in the rear seats. The cross bar and the door bars will be removable and only added for track days. I understand the crossbar can't be removable per NHRA guidelines but I'm doing it anyway. Will have 4 pt bars fully padded and back seat passengers will ride at their own risk. There will be room for 2 in the back still or even 3 if the 2 on the outside can live with the down bar pad against their ribs. I have an entire post on the roll bar stuff for anyone who is interested. I mocked it all up with PVC pipe.

Olds442redberet

All I can say is "WOW!"
Awesome build!

71 OLDS

Thanks!

Another Update: Just purchased:

**Street comp AFX spindle kit from SC&C that includes the forged aluminum AFX tall spindle with C7 Corvette hub and bearing pack, stock A body steering arms, and adjustable upper controls arms - will be going with the "aggressive street" settings/alignment.

**Baer GT 13" GT rotors that are compatible with the AFX Spindles

**Lee 800 steering box 12.7:1 at 1275 psi to match my hydroboost and current pump

**SC&C heavy duty tubular chassis brace to help "triangulate" the front frame horns to improve steering response and chassis stiffness - this was a must with my convertible and the entire front end being fiberglass (fenders, bumper, and hood) - needed something for additional support. The frame and glass panels deflect and move too much right now plus the steering box is just hanging out there imparting all it's steering load on just one frame rail. This chassis brace will eliminate all these issues.

My B-body spindles, Baer 13" track rotors, Hotchkis B-body compatible upper control arms, and my 12 year old leaking AGR steering box will all be coming off.

71 OLDS

Nothing but frustrating delays on everything. Front end parts and 6 speed trans were both ordered 7 weeks ago. Tremec stopped making the Magnum 2.66 6 speed for 5 weeks so mine finally shipped today. Then I got an update from SC&C that the company that makes the aluminum AFX spindles won't have another run of them completed until end of April at the earliest which means they won't be assembled and to me until May/June time frame. Unfortunately the B-body spindles and my old rotors will have to go back on for now until these spindles are finally ready. Will have the chassis brace, SC&C adjustable upper control arms, and Lee 800 box installed this go round but will have to wait on AFX spindles and GT rotors until I finally have the spindles.

71 OLDS

Finally some positive news and progress. The Magnum 6 speed arrived at the shop today. Also Mark at SC&C had a customer change plans and return a set of AFX spindles that will be arriving at the shop next week. So I don't have to wait until May/June now on anything but the aluminum steering arms. Will go with the stock steering arm until the aluminum ones are made with the AFX spindles. Will still have the bumpsteer unfortunately until the steering arms are swapped out but at least I will have the AFX spindles installed and the new GT 13" rotors.

The car has been stripped down in preparation for the trans and the 4.10 gears have already been installed. Also had Frank shorten up the battery shut off switch that stuck out way too far in the "on" position. Here are a few pics. Hoping to have lots more over the coming weeks as the progress happens.

output_zpsh11zrdgx.jpg
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oldcutlass

I've been following along on your build... awesome.

71 OLDS

Thanks! Can't wait for all of these projects to be done. Another delay/issue - American Powertrain sent the wrong bell housing for the Magnum 6 speed so have to order the correct one. Also hoping Frank can work his magic and swap out the shifter handle that came with the 6 speed (it's rounded instead of a rectangle like the originals were) with a late 60's Hurst "442" handle like this one:

image_zpsdt6uldsf.jpeg


I'm sure there will be several challenges to make it work on the 6 speed trans but also fit into the new hole and fit and shift through all 6 gears without hitting on the factory 4 speed console. Like my 5 speed did:

IMG_1108_zpsqyinyezt.jpg

Brian Trick has one of these shifter handles I can buy from him so fingers are crossed. I know the "Hurst" is the correct shifter handle for my 71 442 (used that on my 5 speed you can see it in the pic) but I have always loved that "442" one.

71 OLDS

Some good news and some bad - the good news is the aluminum steering arms are available now and will be sent to the shop with my new aluminum spindles. Now everything can be installed this go round instead of installing stock steering arms temporarily so really happy about that.

Not so good is how the McLeod street twin looks.
20170320_152309_zpsitqsih0x.jpg

20170320_152256_zpscso4uxj2.jpg


Lots of nasty black spots from heat caused most likely by disks dragging or improper shimming or throwout bearing not getting proper travel out for full release. Whatever caused it going to have to send the entire kit back to McLeod to be serviced - Service includes surfacing the flywheel, surface or replace floater, new disc facings, and rebuild the pressure plate. Then put it back together and shim it properly and check for engagement and release.

71 OLDS

Lee 800 steering box and new chassis brace are on:

Y54OgRN.jpg

VpijkXr.jpg

71 OLDS

AFX spindles, steering arms, upper control arms, and GT rotors are installed:

7kVsCHa.jpg

71 OLDS

Finally a little progress - 6 speed install is coming along - slowly but surely:

Xk9ZX8a.jpg
ZnliK12.jpg

Oil cooler is installed:

TEoSgsI.jpg
cv0unja.jpg

Got the old Hooker SC 1 7/8 headers coated:
8sd2vCv.jpg
Switching back to my Holley 830 carb from the 770 street avenger:
C2elhUn.jpg

dc2x4drvr

Subscribed, just reread this thread, I've followed your build for at least a few years, if it was easy....
BTW, to use the Hurst flat handle on my Legend 5 speed, the vendor modified the stub to match the angle on the Hurst, however my trans shifter stub fit the original 4 speed hump, I think your shifter stub is on the trans centerline.