FStanley

FStanley

if anyone gets a decal and on the back of it and there is a code and the 1st letter is a "D" it probably came from Osborn.....

Tom Bilse

Though I haven't posted a comment for a while, the '69 H/O project is progressing well.
Among other to-do's, I'm researching the correct paint for the exhaust manifolds.
I've found great pictures on the costpenn "The body stays on this one . . ." thread, per the attached image.
Should the color on the EM's on a '69 H/O be the same as on the '70 442?
Should the EM's be heat-coated before painting?
Thanks.

Tom Bilse

Are there any special markings or features on the fuel pump which would indicate originality? I'd post a photo of mine, but it's with the engine guy at the moment.
If mine happens to be original, is it best to have it rebuilt (if there is such a process), or is that unnecessary?
If rebuilt, is there a recommended resource for that?
Apologies for my ignorance on some of these things.
Thanks.

Tom Bilse

Posting photos of the painted frame and underside of body.
I assisted with scraping/cleaning under the body which required many hours. Thankfully it was on a lift, but my shoulders/upper back were sore for a while.

FStanley

FStanley

Don't paint Eastwoods exhaust paint looks good for about a year , downhill and rust after that do some homework on a coating process.. maybe ceramic..

rob1960

I used Por "manifold gray" on mine after a trip through the blasting cabinet. I did them back in the winter of '12 & they still look like they were cast yesterday!! I did "bake" them in my oven to set the paint. Don't do this if you have a wife!!!! It will stink up the house!!!

Funkwagon455

Tom, I had my manifolds Jet Hot coated cast grey by an outfit in Arlington. I was pleased with the factory appearing finish Will not peel or discolor with heat.

Tom Bilse

rob1960,
Your engine looks great. Thanks for sending the photo and input.

Tom Bilse

Thanks FStanley for the heads-up info.

Tom Bilse

Posting a photo of my drivers side exhaust manifold. The heat riser valve is missing. Are replacements available? I've found replacement full exhaust manifold w/ HRV at Fusick. Will call to verify if they sell just the HRV.

I've read posts on CO indicating the HRV isn't necessary. Would like feedback on this also.

Thanks.

briane

My friend does restorations for a living, mostly Chevrolet products. His work is among the finest I've seen. I asked him what he uses for exhaust manifolds and its the POR 15 Factory Manifold Gray. I tried it on freshly glass beaded manifolds and used a heat gun to help cure it (I figured I couldn't sneak them into the kitchen oven without the wife detecting). Very pleased with the results. The Jet Hot cast gray looks great in their ads, and perhaps is even a better option. However, I don't personally have experience with it.

frankr442

I've read posts on CO indicating the HRV isn't necessary. Would like feedback on this also.

Unless you plan on using the car in cold weather, I wouldn't worry about the HRV. It just helps the engine warm up a little quicker.

70Post

I'd cut that "rod" out of the middle of the EM exit and weld up or tack-in-place what is left. Is the flat "coil" on your heat riser (on the outside) broken or just not connected?? That part can be replated if it's intact, decent and you can get it removed from the exterior part of the rod (I've removed the coil before).

The surface of the manifold looks pretty nice in the pic....would be a shame not to use it and who wants the restriction in the inside of the exit?

tru-blue 442

Tom, I have this NOS one I bought years ago that I don't think I will be using if your interested.

Tom Bilse

The coil and connection to the rod are solid. Would it be stupid for me to keep the visible components in place and "finish" them somehow, to retain original appearance?

Tom Bilse

Would you be willing to PM me a price? Thanks.

70Post

That's what I was suggesting....leave the "externals" on the manifold. BUT - comparing your pic to Adam's pic of the NOS parts, it looks like you may be missing that cast iron "counterweight" looking chunk of metal that is slid or pressed onto the rod.

Maybe part of the rod is broken off on your manifold (the external part with the "counterweight")??

tru-blue 442

PM sent.

Tom Bilse

Understood. You're correct in that the counterweight thing is missing. Prior to seeing the NOS photo, I didn't know it existed. Thanks again.

FStanley

ram air shroud and flapper were gray phosphate coated, lid was gloss black with 455 4BB decal.. OEM...

Tom Bilse

Looking for the correct paint/color/finish on the '69 HO gas tank.

Thanks.

FStanley

original was silver zinc plated.. I bought a NOS tank years ago to solve the problem as mine was pretty rusty. if you want to keep your original tank you might look into something like GASTANKRENU places that restore them but they might not give you an OEM like finish.. inside will be great though..

70Post

Tom - Best to buy a new tank if you want the tank to look "new" with a fresh factory appearance. The tanks weren't painted originally and there isn't any paint out there that will look remotely like the original finish.

The "gas tank renu" places use a black coating I think.......not what you want at all. Besides, you will pay A LOT of shippng (both ways) to ship your tank off to any tank coating place. You pay RETAIL shipping rates and places like RockAuto (below) charge MUCH, MUCH less. And....you only pay shipping ONE WAY when you buy new tank.

Check RockAuto and get a Spectra Premium brand tank (Made in Canada). They beat everyone on pricing and their shipping charges are WAY LOWER compared to other sellers.

The "coating" used on the original tanks is called "terne".....it's a tin/lead coating or plating. It was applied to the flat/coiled rolls of steel.....not done once the tank was stamped out and welded together.

FStanley

Thanks for the info... on outside coating..

Fred

70Post

Fred - I had seen the "word(s)" used on original tanks.....when the tank had evidence of the large ink/paint stamp (you've probably seen repros of the large stamp). Somewhere in the wording on the original stamp I saw that odd "word(s)" "Long Ternes" or "Long Tern". This was before the repro stencils came out but the internet had been going for a few years so did some searches and sure enough there were some references/links. Was also dealing with used tanks on early restos and wondering about the "odd" look/finish so that led to looking around. Probably a trademarked name one or more of the big US steel manufacturers came up with for the particular coating. I'm fairly sure it was probably one of the final, if not last, steps done when the steel was made in the mill...before the sheet was rolled up. The "stencils" were applied to the roll randomly or intermittently at the mill.

The coating was a rust preventative but also presented a softer surface for the tool/dies used to stamp the tanks......may have cut down on wear and tear of the stamping dies as a side benefit.

Back to our regular programming.

Tom Bilse

Thanks for the input.

My original tank was in pretty good condition, so I had it cleaned inside and out at a local place (Centennial), which also cleaned the radiator. If the result of their work is comparable to the service experience provided, I'll be happy with it.

Regarding the appearance, it looks like the exterior of my cleaned tank is kind of a dull light gray. I'm not with the car now - had the attached (darker) photo texted to me. I don't believe this was intended as a "final" appearance - probably a protective coating of some type?

Also attached is a photo of the replacement tank on my '68 442. It looks pretty good but may not be correct. Not as worried about that since car is not numbers-matching.

So, do I leave the cleaned tank as is or paint it a silver color?

Thanks.

70Post

Almost looks like they sprayed the tank with some glossy grey paint.

If they did that and sanded the tank first it won't look that good bare.....you'll have to see it in person to determine that.

If they just sprayed something over the bare/unsanded/clean tank surface OR left the bare/natural finish then you could try brightening it up with something like Brasso and paper towels (after removing whatever they sprayed with solvent and paper towels...which may take awhile in these cold temps right now). The idea here is to avoid harming, scratching, removing, etc the original coating (if it's still present). The original tank coatings, over time, do react with the atmosphere and oxidize. They turn from their brighter, more "silvery" look to the duller grey look. But, if the tank/coating "lived" in a decent environment you may be able to brighten it up a bit.

If that is the case you could follow up with periodic spraying/wiping of the tank with Boeshield T-9. That's a oil/wax type coating (clear/transparent) that will help seal off the bare surface from the elements. I guess you could also get it shined up and then try to clearcoat it with a satin clear but it may not stick that well and may not prevent oxidation going forward...time would tell.

The reason I mention these type methods is once you paint it it will NEVER look like the original finish.....it'll just look like paint in whatever color, etc you choose. The Eastwood stuff is very dry and flat and again, being paint, it LOOKS like paint. It's a spray can application and it just doesn't lay down very nicely, despite what the pictures in their catalog show. Then again, maybe that sort of finish is fine.....it'll look decent from a distance...all one color/tone/etc. If it was going to be painted then some sort of custom-mixed paint sprayed through a spray gun (over a primer) would give a more consistent finish without the dry edges/pattern you may get when spraying a larger flatter part like a gas tank with spray cans.

I don't have any suggestions on a color/mix for a spray gun....haven't had to paint a tank in years.

Tom Bilse

Patton,
Thanks.
While I have the opportunity at this point in the process, I'll have the painter spray-gun it for me. I saw a post for a '69 442 resto (501Paratrouper) which included photos of a reinstalled gas tank. It appears that "color" is more correct than what I did on my '68 442 tank.

Related to this topic, I've heard varying opinions on whether to replace my original sending unit. I'm thinking yes, but need to be careful it is absolutely correct. Is there a best source for this?
Attached is a diagram from a different thread on CO. Would this be what I should look for? Thanks.

70Post

Tom - Not sure what you mean when you said "correct" in your last posting. Who knows if the new sending units are EXACTLY that same looking, etc as the originals???? Probably vary slightly in some way and since you can't, for the most part, see the part once installed, then the only "correct" you could be worried about, appearance-wise, would be the look or length of the two steel fuel lines coming out of the top.

I've never done a side-by-side comparison of the aftermarket sending units with an original.

I mean....the aftermarket vendor is going to send you whatever a new production unit looks like....you can't always "trust" the pics shown in parts listings either. They could be "generic" pics just so folks have an idea of what the "general" part looks like. That pic is a sending unit and looks like a pic of a typical replacement for our cars but who knows??

I'm just not really clear on your use of "correct"....not trying to argue or anything like that.

Tom Bilse

Patton,
I meant to convey I'd like the sending unit to fit and function correctly.
I happened across the noted diagram in CO, which was in a post for a slightly newer car. I was just wanting to confirm if I purchased a unit that had the components shown, should it work for my H/O and who is the best source for it.
I was pretty emphatically told by a very knowledgeable member in our car club to be careful with aftermarket units.
I'm ignorant about a lot of this stuff, but (hopefully) learning as I go.

70Post

Tom - First....have you tested your existing unit?? If it works and appears original why not re-use it?

On sourcing an aftermarket......RockAuto probably sells Spectra Premium brand sending units which should be fine. Don't know of a "best source" as there are a "jillion" places that probably have them. With so many potential sellers (and possible manufacturers)....who knows if one aftermarket piece is better than the other....a dice roll I guess.

Probably worth testing any NEW unit prior to installation. The testing method has probably been discussed on this site and/or appears in the Chassis Service Manual.

There may be places that rebuild original sending units but I've never looked into it.

FStanley

If your original is working, use it.. who is going to see it on top of the tank?? for the tubes that stick out just clean with some scotchbrite maybe run a satin clear to seal???

I can't tell you how many times I've bought new or repro stuff and been disappointed.. in function and appearance... so much stuff comes from China and a lot is just crap....

Fred

Tom Bilse

My original unit is in very rough shape, so I've ordered a Spectra Premium unit from RA. Will have it tested before installation. Thanks for the tip on that.

Tom Bilse

I'm trying to find a source for the yellow transmission tag decal (per attachment), but have had no success so far.
I'd appreciate help with this.
Thanks.

Tom Bilse

The following numbers are stamped onto my distributor:
1111989 9D29
I assume these are the part # and date code.
Would they suggest the distributor is correct/original for a '69 H/O?
Thanks.

70Post

The date code indicates a April 29, 1969 build date for the distributor. The PN is correct....I think....number seems familiar but someone with a '69 HO will know for sure.

35olds

Check with "Hairy Olds" on the forum Paul's the man you need.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tag-decal.html

Tom Bilse

Thanks Patton.