'64 Cutlass coupe resto
#201
More mud work
I set my deadline for the end of month to be finished all of the mud work and blocking. Getting distracted by life has needed me to likely push that out 1 week. I'm going to try - we'll see. I'm almost done with the body tub then on to the panels.
I modified my engine stand to support fenders and doors for blocking and possibly painting.
I'm starting to freak out a little because it seems like there is a stink load to do in order to reunite the body and chassis and my deadline for total completion is rapidly approaching.
I modified my engine stand to support fenders and doors for blocking and possibly painting.
I'm starting to freak out a little because it seems like there is a stink load to do in order to reunite the body and chassis and my deadline for total completion is rapidly approaching.
#205
Bernhard wrote
I was just at our local car show and you would be surprised at how may cars were painted twice or have to go back in for a complete strip and re-paint.
I can tell you from personal experience it does not take much for paint work to go sideways. You can get the prep right and be undone by product failure.
Incompatible products, paint booth motor that fails mid paint job.
When I go through a show it is rare that I find a car free of paint and prep problems.
I don't go looking for them nor do I judge the cars that have issues!!!!!!!!!
When you are trained to look for problems you cant help but notice they just pop right out, I don't even ware my glasses at the show for that very reason.
There are so many things that you have to get right for top shelf paint work there is a reason paint jobs run $20,000 and up.
I would never pay for 20K paint job nor do I think a muscle car should have such paint work.
I like the factory thin mill thickness paint look but that is not for everyone.
Looking forward to seeing it back together!
Good luck with the rest of the build.
Last edited by Bernhard; April 25th, 2017 at 05:45 PM.
#206
Coming back to Earth...
Thank you for the encouragement. I am going to relax on this and get it right. As a matter of fact I am going to redo all of the seam sealer work I did because it looks ugly.
I had a buddy who is a professional painter come over and have a look at what I've done so far. He has basically convinced me to drop the idea of painting the car black. Not sure what to spray it but I have a few colours in mind. Kev gave me a few tips and advice. That combined with your input has made me realize that this part in particular can't be done at warp 9...
Taking the pressure off makes it fun again - not a chore.
I had a buddy who is a professional painter come over and have a look at what I've done so far. He has basically convinced me to drop the idea of painting the car black. Not sure what to spray it but I have a few colours in mind. Kev gave me a few tips and advice. That combined with your input has made me realize that this part in particular can't be done at warp 9...
Taking the pressure off makes it fun again - not a chore.
#207
Your welcome. We were just trying to help you make your May 1st deadline as you requested. I knew by your previous work you weren't going to cut corners anyway. We can all go back to our regularly scheduled program now. Good luck!
#208
Thank you for the encouragement. I am going to relax on this and get it right. As a matter of fact I am going to redo all of the seam sealer work I did because it looks ugly.
I had a buddy who is a professional painter come over and have a look at what I've done so far. He has basically convinced me to drop the idea of painting the car black. Not sure what to spray it but I have a few colours in mind. Kev gave me a few tips and advice. That combined with your input has made me realize that this part in particular can't be done at warp 9...
Taking the pressure off makes it fun again - not a chore.
I had a buddy who is a professional painter come over and have a look at what I've done so far. He has basically convinced me to drop the idea of painting the car black. Not sure what to spray it but I have a few colours in mind. Kev gave me a few tips and advice. That combined with your input has made me realize that this part in particular can't be done at warp 9...
Taking the pressure off makes it fun again - not a chore.
The cars that were black at the show had lots of high solid primer on them and you could tell. To make the car perfectly straight dulls the lines of the car. This is a hard one to balance straight but not dull the lines.
#212
The car was Royal Mist (Navy Blue).
Maybe I'll consider factory paint again...this isn't my car but it's what it would look like. Minus the mini tubs and roll bar of course...
Maybe I'll consider factory paint again...this isn't my car but it's what it would look like. Minus the mini tubs and roll bar of course...
#213
color
It looked like this once....go there again.
Or if you prefer a lighter blue you could go this way.
FYI the light blue car ended up black after I sold it. Also a possibility.
Or if you prefer a lighter blue you could go this way.
FYI the light blue car ended up black after I sold it. Also a possibility.
Last edited by oldsmobiledave; April 27th, 2017 at 08:12 AM.
#215
Well I think it will come down to Factory Royal Mist or Burgundy Mist. My buddy is pushing me to go Burgundy with a two tone. Black roof with the red. I'm thinking Burgundy with gun metal grey metallic roof to match the rest of the car. Wheels, chassis engine bay etc..
#217
#219
Yeah Dave - that's what I'm thinking. Burgundy Mist body with a gunmetal grey roof.
BUT - I want to do it right so I'll need to find C pillar trim to separate the colours..
BUT - I want to do it right so I'll need to find C pillar trim to separate the colours..
#221
Have you checked online pics of grey and maroon cars? Personally I think you went to so much trouble to make the car like new, I would either pick a stock colour or an enhancement to a stock colour. JMO.
Robski - although red is not my favourite that looks sharp and very period correct.
Robski - although red is not my favourite that looks sharp and very period correct.
#224
Nice!
I like the color and stripe!
The color and stripe work well with the dog dish hub caps.
Last edited by Bernhard; April 28th, 2017 at 07:18 PM.
#225
I'd be stoked if my car turned out as nice as Robski's. I/m not sure about going full on red - but it does look awesome. I'm still thinking two tone - maybe black roof with the burgundy mist. My wheels are gunmetal grey with a red pinstripe which would still work with a black roof. I still have time - keep the ideas rolling in!
#229
Another random discovery!
I had a productive evening in the garage. I formed up my rear brake lines, dug out my door hinges to mount the doors to the body AND - as I was digging through my shed 'o' parts I came across my Vista parts. Comparing reverse light lenses - lo and behold the reverse light housings on 64/65 wagons are identical to the reverse light lenses and housings on a 64 Cutlass.
Whaddya know...
Whaddya know...
#230
YE;P I badly needed back up lights too and was very lucky and found these brand new still the GM Guide box on E-Bay. I cross referenced the part number and low and behold its the same part number for a 67 Buick Skylark wagon as advertised.
#231
tail light bezels restored.
It's been quiet around the car lately. I haven't gotten up to much. This past week I was in SoCal for business so I figured I'd grab my tail light bezels from Dan at big D's chrome.
They are so pretty...
They are so pretty...
#232
Getting motivated again
I've reset my deadlines to finish the car. They're a little more realistic this time but I want to hurry up and get the next bit done so I can hit the milestone. So far this weekend I finished the undercoating and plan to finish the rear brake lines. I would like to install my freshly ceramic coated exhaust as well but that may happen over the next couple of days. My mission is to reunite the body and chassis by next weekend.
The next steps will be checking and test firing the engine, finishing the mud work and preparing for paint. I expect to have the car painted by late fall while I continue to restore the trim.
Late winter coming into spring I should be doing the reassembly and WHAMBO - drive it next summer. Assuming of course nothing goes sideways between here and there cuz that never happens...
The next steps will be checking and test firing the engine, finishing the mud work and preparing for paint. I expect to have the car painted by late fall while I continue to restore the trim.
Late winter coming into spring I should be doing the reassembly and WHAMBO - drive it next summer. Assuming of course nothing goes sideways between here and there cuz that never happens...
#233
moving along on both fronts
My goal is to mate the body and chassis on the upcoming weekend so there's a lot I have to do between here and there. I am having special stands made to support the body while I roll the chassis under it. Those will be welded up this week. When I can get those under it I can dismantle the rotisserie and get it out of the way so I can paint the firewall gunmetal grey THEN roll the chassis in.
I am in the process of mounting my ceramic coated exhaust and just cut the hole in my perfect floor for my auto trans shifter linkage. There should be lots of good stuff to post over the next week or so.
sorry about the pic orientation...
I am in the process of mounting my ceramic coated exhaust and just cut the hole in my perfect floor for my auto trans shifter linkage. There should be lots of good stuff to post over the next week or so.
sorry about the pic orientation...
Last edited by Napoleon Solo; July 31st, 2017 at 07:13 PM.
#234
Getting things done
It feels good to get done what you set out to do. Today I got the body up in the air on my custom made pedestals and 4x4's so I can finally do the paint work on the firewall. I'm giving the rotisserie back to my buddy tomorrow.
When that was all done I went on to the chassis to finish the exhaust. I had to modify the muffler hangers to fit. I think I bought Camaro hangers because they were readily available. I ended up reversing the sides, making a spacer out of tube and used long bolts to hold them up. I drilled out the cross member holes to 3/8" so I could get a slightly larger bolt in. Between the plated washers and frame I put rubber 'O' rings on the bolts to eliminate vibration.
It's only Saturday and I have 2 more days off...
When that was all done I went on to the chassis to finish the exhaust. I had to modify the muffler hangers to fit. I think I bought Camaro hangers because they were readily available. I ended up reversing the sides, making a spacer out of tube and used long bolts to hold them up. I drilled out the cross member holes to 3/8" so I could get a slightly larger bolt in. Between the plated washers and frame I put rubber 'O' rings on the bolts to eliminate vibration.
It's only Saturday and I have 2 more days off...
#236
heater core
Looks good sir.
Don't forget your new heater core. It's sitting on the shelf in my condo in Tsawwassen.
I'll be out in late Sept or early Oct and drop it off when we get together. I look forward to seeing the car.
Don't forget your new heater core. It's sitting on the shelf in my condo in Tsawwassen.
I'll be out in late Sept or early Oct and drop it off when we get together. I look forward to seeing the car.
#237
Another productive day
Thanks Gents!
So I'm in the garage enjoying my coffee this morning dreading the job I had in front of me. In another thread I was asking about painting over POR-15 and everyone said I'd have to either scuff it up with 320 or hit it again to make it tacky - then blow on primer then paint. I had done a quick test for colour with a rattle can over 4-5 square inches and was pleased with how it looked. So I'm thinking, coffee in hand, what if I just rattle can paint the firewall?
I weighed it out. Best case, looks good and I'm done in 5 minutes with no mess and trouble. Worst case it doesn't stick, turns out splotchy and I have to sand it all off. So I went for it - and the result is pretty impressive.
Feeling pretty good about myself and being a full day ahead now, I rolled the chassis under the body. It almost looks like a car again.
Also, using the stencils I had made for my valve covers I decided to paint that today too. The scratch on the valve cover above the lettering is touched up already..
So I'm in the garage enjoying my coffee this morning dreading the job I had in front of me. In another thread I was asking about painting over POR-15 and everyone said I'd have to either scuff it up with 320 or hit it again to make it tacky - then blow on primer then paint. I had done a quick test for colour with a rattle can over 4-5 square inches and was pleased with how it looked. So I'm thinking, coffee in hand, what if I just rattle can paint the firewall?
I weighed it out. Best case, looks good and I'm done in 5 minutes with no mess and trouble. Worst case it doesn't stick, turns out splotchy and I have to sand it all off. So I went for it - and the result is pretty impressive.
Feeling pretty good about myself and being a full day ahead now, I rolled the chassis under the body. It almost looks like a car again.
Also, using the stencils I had made for my valve covers I decided to paint that today too. The scratch on the valve cover above the lettering is touched up already..
#238
Another step complete
I was working on the car over the weekend and I should be ready to test fire the ol' machine shortly. I just need to figure out what the wiring looks like...
Anyway, more and more it's looking like a car again.
Anyway, more and more it's looking like a car again.