1972 442 W-30 Tribute Project
May 9th, 2011, 01:14 PM
#81
NOVICE car nut
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May 22nd, 2011, 02:21 PM
#82
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
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Got a bunch done this weekend, even if I did go to a Pontiac show in Philly.
Finished wiring the amps, cap, and speakers, all the grounds, power, etc.
Got the amp fuse setup installed by the battery, think I'm going to paint the cover black, write the amp for the fuse in white.
Finished a bunch of the other wiring, main harness, etc. Left slack in the charge wire so I can easily drop the starter. Routed the pos calble differently, have slack in that too, for the starter.
Got the dip stick tube installed, whoever suggested the freezer for a hour was right on target, tapped it right in, was cake.
Still need to shim the starter, put the new yoke on the rear, and measure for the driveshaft. Next weekend I'll get the exhaust all installed and do the startup on the engine, looking forward to that. have a few little odds and ends to do, but should have it all knocked out by the end of next weekend. More to come...
.
Finished wiring the amps, cap, and speakers, all the grounds, power, etc.
Got the amp fuse setup installed by the battery, think I'm going to paint the cover black, write the amp for the fuse in white.
Finished a bunch of the other wiring, main harness, etc. Left slack in the charge wire so I can easily drop the starter. Routed the pos calble differently, have slack in that too, for the starter.
Got the dip stick tube installed, whoever suggested the freezer for a hour was right on target, tapped it right in, was cake.
Still need to shim the starter, put the new yoke on the rear, and measure for the driveshaft. Next weekend I'll get the exhaust all installed and do the startup on the engine, looking forward to that. have a few little odds and ends to do, but should have it all knocked out by the end of next weekend. More to come...
.
May 30th, 2011, 12:02 PM
#83
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Location: Manassas, VA
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Installed the remaining wires, throttle bracekt and cable, and a bunch of little stuff. Got the starter installed, shimmed, and had to make a small harness because the post was too close to the header. Fun.
Figured out all the wire looms for the plugs, and made all the plug wires after priming the engine and installing the distributor. Had to go through the whole distributor, was a ProComp HEI, shaft had burrs, was hanging, had to lube it, and recurve it. Plates were hung too. Careful if you buy one, look it over carefully.
Well, the engine is almost ready to fire, need to hang the exhaust and add gas, but that should be a day next weekend. Still a few little things to knock out too, didn't get to the driveshaft measurement, for one, but think I will have it done by next weekend...
.
Figured out all the wire looms for the plugs, and made all the plug wires after priming the engine and installing the distributor. Had to go through the whole distributor, was a ProComp HEI, shaft had burrs, was hanging, had to lube it, and recurve it. Plates were hung too. Careful if you buy one, look it over carefully.
Well, the engine is almost ready to fire, need to hang the exhaust and add gas, but that should be a day next weekend. Still a few little things to knock out too, didn't get to the driveshaft measurement, for one, but think I will have it done by next weekend...
.
June 13th, 2011, 05:14 AM
#84
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Location: Manassas, VA
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Had the A/C lines crimped, and got the A/C setup all together, was pretty much the last item I had left in the engine compartment.
Hung the exhaust, it's a Pypes header-back, was one of the first runs of the style, and bought it years ago. The one tailpipe on the driver's side hangs a low, called them, and they said after they look at a pic they will send me new tailpipes. Nice. VERY nice, especially considering how long ago I bought the setup. I used Dynomax Turbo mufflers, 20" case, wow, it's nice and quiet! Once it's mobile, I'll take it to a friend's shop and have it welded up, and can make sure it doesn't contact anything. Will be much easier on a rack to do that stuff. It fits nice and tight up against the floor, the mufflers are about even with the axle tubes.
Did the initial startup, broke in the cam and shut it down. No issues, which is always a relief! I had one pipe plug in the water crossover of the intake I had weep, will have to correct that, but no biggie. Will retorque the heads one night this week and call it 'done'. Will have to do some minor tuning, jetting, advance, idle mix, etc, but for the most part, it's pretty dang close the way it is.
I'll bolt the converter up next and measure for the driveshaft, hoping to have the driveshaft before the weekend. Will have to do the trans break-in, flush it after warm up and cycling through the gears a few time, check for leaks.
Final items are things like alignment, the exhaust welded, windshield, inspection. Have a couple things in the interior, like seat belts, the one visor, fix a minor scratch in the dash area along the bottom (rattle can it), and that stupid console lid that I boogered up. Need to build out the rear bumper, and install the grills, but that's pretty cake. I'm thinking 2-3 weeks and can get it into the body shop, get it painted. Looking forward to that!
I'll get some more pic posted here soon...
.
Hung the exhaust, it's a Pypes header-back, was one of the first runs of the style, and bought it years ago. The one tailpipe on the driver's side hangs a low, called them, and they said after they look at a pic they will send me new tailpipes. Nice. VERY nice, especially considering how long ago I bought the setup. I used Dynomax Turbo mufflers, 20" case, wow, it's nice and quiet! Once it's mobile, I'll take it to a friend's shop and have it welded up, and can make sure it doesn't contact anything. Will be much easier on a rack to do that stuff. It fits nice and tight up against the floor, the mufflers are about even with the axle tubes.
Did the initial startup, broke in the cam and shut it down. No issues, which is always a relief! I had one pipe plug in the water crossover of the intake I had weep, will have to correct that, but no biggie. Will retorque the heads one night this week and call it 'done'. Will have to do some minor tuning, jetting, advance, idle mix, etc, but for the most part, it's pretty dang close the way it is.
I'll bolt the converter up next and measure for the driveshaft, hoping to have the driveshaft before the weekend. Will have to do the trans break-in, flush it after warm up and cycling through the gears a few time, check for leaks.
Final items are things like alignment, the exhaust welded, windshield, inspection. Have a couple things in the interior, like seat belts, the one visor, fix a minor scratch in the dash area along the bottom (rattle can it), and that stupid console lid that I boogered up. Need to build out the rear bumper, and install the grills, but that's pretty cake. I'm thinking 2-3 weeks and can get it into the body shop, get it painted. Looking forward to that!
I'll get some more pic posted here soon...
.
Last edited by HWYSTR455; June 13th, 2011 at 05:18 AM.
June 23rd, 2011, 04:21 PM
#87
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Location: Manassas, VA
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Couple updates, built out the rear bumper and got it mounted, mainly so I can fit the tail pipes so the trumpets are lined up. One little tip, I shot the inside of the bumper with undercoating, will help prevent the flaking and rust that you see on the original.
Also wire wheeled the underside of the hood and shot it with some engine paint. Figured for the few miles that thing will be on there, a little effort will make it look better.
First time it's seen sunlight for some time, so figured I'd wash it. Actually doesn't look too bad the way it is...from 10 feet anyway!
Few more things to iron out, will give updates on that stuff next time. Then off to the body shop for minor repair and paint. Woo-hoo!
.
Also wire wheeled the underside of the hood and shot it with some engine paint. Figured for the few miles that thing will be on there, a little effort will make it look better.
First time it's seen sunlight for some time, so figured I'd wash it. Actually doesn't look too bad the way it is...from 10 feet anyway!
Few more things to iron out, will give updates on that stuff next time. Then off to the body shop for minor repair and paint. Woo-hoo!
.
July 9th, 2011, 03:30 PM
#88
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Location: Manassas, VA
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Update:
Removed the glass last weekend, was going to have the glass co come out and install a new windshield in the driveway, though once I had the glass out, saw there was some rot in the upper corner, and no sense putting new glass in without fixing it first. Dang, was hoping to get it aligned, AC charged, and inspected. Anyway, it looks worse than it is, it's really only a small section, an easy patch.
So, I stripped all the trim, vinyl top, door handles, wheel opening moulding, rocker moulding, reveal moulding, windows fuzzies, rear bumper, trunk seal, door seals, window channels, inside door panels, rear seats, everything I could to get it ready for the body shop. Have a rollback coming monday to take it up there.
Ordered a OAI hood (another thread on which one), and it's being delivered to the body shop tuesday/wednesday, so will go up then, take pics of that, and get a quote on the body work. Once I get that I'll post, on both the repair info, and the hood.
.
Removed the glass last weekend, was going to have the glass co come out and install a new windshield in the driveway, though once I had the glass out, saw there was some rot in the upper corner, and no sense putting new glass in without fixing it first. Dang, was hoping to get it aligned, AC charged, and inspected. Anyway, it looks worse than it is, it's really only a small section, an easy patch.
So, I stripped all the trim, vinyl top, door handles, wheel opening moulding, rocker moulding, reveal moulding, windows fuzzies, rear bumper, trunk seal, door seals, window channels, inside door panels, rear seats, everything I could to get it ready for the body shop. Have a rollback coming monday to take it up there.
Ordered a OAI hood (another thread on which one), and it's being delivered to the body shop tuesday/wednesday, so will go up then, take pics of that, and get a quote on the body work. Once I get that I'll post, on both the repair info, and the hood.
.
Last edited by HWYSTR455; July 9th, 2011 at 03:32 PM.
July 12th, 2011, 05:29 AM
#90
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Thank you sniswend, have some time in it for sure! Appreciate others' opinions!
The converter is an TCi Break-a-way, with the anti-baloon plate. It's pretty tight for an off the shelf converter, stall isn't too high where it heats up in stop & go, and the flash is still good for performance use. Once I get the car out on the road and start dialing it in, I'll report back on the specifics. I've used them before though, and have to say I really like them. And I've tried a LOT of converters!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-241101/
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/th350-400-...ing-plate.html
The rear, well that's a sore spot, kind of. There's a couple things the guy did I wasn't happy about, and it's going to have to be checked out again. The backlash for one is way too sloppy, that thing would sing if I left it the way it is. Anyway, to have it gone through I think I paid like $850. Some shops are a little less, some a little more, but that's a pretty good basis for figuring out about what it would cost. Of course, that's with no parts, I bought all my own parts. I think total, I have about $1650 in parts in it, to give you an idea. I bought a piece here, a piece there, so it wasn't like it was a lump-sum hit on the wallet.
Next time, if there is one! Next time I do a rear that I want to use the housing I have on hand, I'm just going to ship it to Moser.They can clean the housing, toss it on a jig, check for straightness, weld the brackets and tubes, and assemble it, all within a reasonable price, and you know it's right. (and I spent about that much anyway).
If you don't care about the housing, I say buy a Moser 12-bolt housing, and have the big Ford ends put on it. They have housing and axle packages that are right around $850. If you want a complete one, all the good stuff, the one I priced was like $2350, to give you an idea.
.
The converter is an TCi Break-a-way, with the anti-baloon plate. It's pretty tight for an off the shelf converter, stall isn't too high where it heats up in stop & go, and the flash is still good for performance use. Once I get the car out on the road and start dialing it in, I'll report back on the specifics. I've used them before though, and have to say I really like them. And I've tried a LOT of converters!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-241101/
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/th350-400-...ing-plate.html
The rear, well that's a sore spot, kind of. There's a couple things the guy did I wasn't happy about, and it's going to have to be checked out again. The backlash for one is way too sloppy, that thing would sing if I left it the way it is. Anyway, to have it gone through I think I paid like $850. Some shops are a little less, some a little more, but that's a pretty good basis for figuring out about what it would cost. Of course, that's with no parts, I bought all my own parts. I think total, I have about $1650 in parts in it, to give you an idea. I bought a piece here, a piece there, so it wasn't like it was a lump-sum hit on the wallet.
Next time, if there is one! Next time I do a rear that I want to use the housing I have on hand, I'm just going to ship it to Moser.They can clean the housing, toss it on a jig, check for straightness, weld the brackets and tubes, and assemble it, all within a reasonable price, and you know it's right. (and I spent about that much anyway).
If you don't care about the housing, I say buy a Moser 12-bolt housing, and have the big Ford ends put on it. They have housing and axle packages that are right around $850. If you want a complete one, all the good stuff, the one I priced was like $2350, to give you an idea.
.
Last edited by HWYSTR455; July 12th, 2011 at 05:37 AM.
July 12th, 2011, 06:00 AM
#91
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Location: Manassas, VA
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Hey, I just remembered, I have a low-mile used break-away from my LeMans, has about 5k miles on it which came out when I swapped over to an overdrive trans (and had already bought one for the Cutlass). It's perfect, not from a trans burn-out or anything, would let it go for $140 + shipping, if you're intersted....
.
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July 13th, 2011, 02:44 PM
#92
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fort Collins
Posts: 12
Thanks for the info. I am in the process of turning my 71 Cutlass back into a more streetable car. It has been a stock appearing drag car for 20+ years. I am debating what to do about the rear-end gearing. It had a 12 bolt posi with 4:11s but that is too steep for most driving. So I put the 10 bolt posi with 2:73 gears in it and it is kind of a dog off the line. I need to find a good balance.
As for the torque converter I took out the hole shot 3000 stall and put in a stock converter, and again that killed more off the line power. The 3000 stall with 2:73 gears would burn out the tranny overtime so I have to find a good balance there. The transmission is a Turbo 400 from a 1970 Cadillac so I am not sure if your converter will work. If it is out of a turbo 350 it won't work.
I am thinking 3:42 gears with some sort of tight 2000 stall torque converter will be good.
As for the torque converter I took out the hole shot 3000 stall and put in a stock converter, and again that killed more off the line power. The 3000 stall with 2:73 gears would burn out the tranny overtime so I have to find a good balance there. The transmission is a Turbo 400 from a 1970 Cadillac so I am not sure if your converter will work. If it is out of a turbo 350 it won't work.
I am thinking 3:42 gears with some sort of tight 2000 stall torque converter will be good.
July 14th, 2011, 04:40 AM
#93
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It is out of a BOP Th-400, and has the correct flexplate bolt pattern. TCi advertises @ 1000 rpm over stock, and as I mentioned, it's pretty tight for an off the shelf converter. If you don't like it, I will pay shipping back even, but doubt you would be disappointed.
As for gearing, it's a lot of preference, but looking at the factory gearing is a good starting point. One thing many overlook is targeting a cruise rpm as the cam profile dictates, as well as what that cruise rpm is. Some states/areas a valid cruise speed would be 60, others 70, and yet others, 80, so need to keep that in mind when people make recommendations. Gearset in the trans makes a diff too, fyi.
A good all-around gear is the 3.23, 3.42 is a good choice also. With a 455, 3.08 is very popular, and you just have to make the other selections (cam, intake type, carb) match. You'd be surprised at how well a 455 with 3.08s perform at the track with complimenting parts. Many of the Pontiac guys are in the md to low 12s, with a fully loaded street car...
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As for gearing, it's a lot of preference, but looking at the factory gearing is a good starting point. One thing many overlook is targeting a cruise rpm as the cam profile dictates, as well as what that cruise rpm is. Some states/areas a valid cruise speed would be 60, others 70, and yet others, 80, so need to keep that in mind when people make recommendations. Gearset in the trans makes a diff too, fyi.
A good all-around gear is the 3.23, 3.42 is a good choice also. With a 455, 3.08 is very popular, and you just have to make the other selections (cam, intake type, carb) match. You'd be surprised at how well a 455 with 3.08s perform at the track with complimenting parts. Many of the Pontiac guys are in the md to low 12s, with a fully loaded street car...
.
July 14th, 2011, 04:49 AM
#94
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Location: Manassas, VA
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If anyone wants any OE parts that came off my project, please contact me, all will go for a very reasonble or low price.
OE disc brake spindles
Hood
serveral sets of Hood grills
undamaged rear bumper, re-chome candidate
A/C and other brackets
OE A/C condenser w/OE dryer (operational when removed)
OE Gauges, several sets, clock too (rebuilt and operational)
serveral sets of headlight grills
OE jack and hold down hardware
OE distributor
OE 2bbl intake and carb (operational)
OE 4 bbl intake
350 Exhaust manifolds
throttle & kickdown bracket
brake booster vacuum line (with correct, enlarged end and fitting)
OE 8.5 axles, excellent condition
Tons of stuff I can't think of, contact me....
.
OE disc brake spindles
Hood
serveral sets of Hood grills
undamaged rear bumper, re-chome candidate
A/C and other brackets
OE A/C condenser w/OE dryer (operational when removed)
OE Gauges, several sets, clock too (rebuilt and operational)
serveral sets of headlight grills
OE jack and hold down hardware
OE distributor
OE 2bbl intake and carb (operational)
OE 4 bbl intake
350 Exhaust manifolds
throttle & kickdown bracket
brake booster vacuum line (with correct, enlarged end and fitting)
OE 8.5 axles, excellent condition
Tons of stuff I can't think of, contact me....
.
July 14th, 2011, 06:12 AM
#95
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Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 2,175
July 14th, 2011, 06:17 AM
#96
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 694
.
July 14th, 2011, 06:27 AM
#97
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Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 2,175
Okay great! Thanks for the feedback, i wasn't sure if making a hole with a nail would make a difference but i'll definitely try that.
P.S - Your car is lookin' great so far! I might be asking you for some more info on those parts that you've got for sale sometime soon. Where abouts are you located for shipping?
P.S - Your car is lookin' great so far! I might be asking you for some more info on those parts that you've got for sale sometime soon. Where abouts are you located for shipping?
July 14th, 2011, 08:43 AM
#98
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Location: Manassas, VA
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The buttons have that flat 'stalk' that has a point, but it's kind of flimsy, and sometimes bends as you try to push it through. That's the only reason I was thinking punching a hole with something else first would help. That way too, you don't have to keep flipping it over to see where the mark is for the button..
Northern VA, right outside DC, xxxxx zip to be exact...
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Northern VA, right outside DC, xxxxx zip to be exact...
.
Last edited by HWYSTR455; August 25th, 2011 at 11:02 AM.
August 25th, 2011, 07:18 AM
#103
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Location: Manassas, VA
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Quick update:
*Fab guy made lower fender patches, which is why he said we didn't need to buy any, they include the factory step, the guy is really good.
*Roof in final stages of being smoothed out, they are paying close attention to it since this car will be black.
*Passenger quarter looked great, minor touchup behind the wheel opening, and minor lip repair.
*Driver quarter is done as well.
*Windshield frame is done, just needs to install one pin for the trim clips and it's complete.
*Both door hinges were re-bushed, guy mentioned it had nylon bushings in it, something he's never seen, and said it's probably why they weren't all ate up. He replaced them with brass bushing. (will get a pic of the bushings posted soon.
Once the deck lid arrives, he will prep, and then over to the paint side of the house. Moving right along, really happy it won't be hostage for too long!
.
*Fab guy made lower fender patches, which is why he said we didn't need to buy any, they include the factory step, the guy is really good.
*Roof in final stages of being smoothed out, they are paying close attention to it since this car will be black.
*Passenger quarter looked great, minor touchup behind the wheel opening, and minor lip repair.
*Driver quarter is done as well.
*Windshield frame is done, just needs to install one pin for the trim clips and it's complete.
*Both door hinges were re-bushed, guy mentioned it had nylon bushings in it, something he's never seen, and said it's probably why they weren't all ate up. He replaced them with brass bushing. (will get a pic of the bushings posted soon.
Once the deck lid arrives, he will prep, and then over to the paint side of the house. Moving right along, really happy it won't be hostage for too long!
.
August 25th, 2011, 09:46 AM
#104
72 Olds CS
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,657
I just did the drivers hinge on my 72 CS also remanants of plastic bushings in there, the kit I got had the copper bushings and another material bushing. I installed the other material bushing on the detent hinge at the top, as there were no instructions and that seemed like the place to put it
August 25th, 2011, 10:09 AM
#105
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Posts: 3,123
I just did the drivers hinge on my 72 CS also remanants of plastic bushings in there, the kit I got had the copper bushings and another material bushing. I installed the other material bushing on the detent hinge at the top, as there were no instructions and that seemed like the place to put it
August 28th, 2011, 04:53 PM
#107
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Location: Manassas, VA
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.
August 28th, 2011, 11:26 PM
#108
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Posts: 653
Thanks for the info! I have no problem paying for quality work. Like you I discovered County Transmission in Vienna and I go out of state for Olds experts when needed but I have yet to find a good local body shop. I will need paint and body work done on both my cars (71 442 & 70 Supreme). I'm very impressed with what you've done on your car and I'm fixing up the 70 Supreme for my son like you are fixing up yours for you daughter.
Here are the details on the 70 Supreme:
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....er=asc&start=0
I've actually made lots of progress on this car but need to post some new pics and updates.
and here is the thread on my 71 442:
http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...42-convertible
-Joe
Here are the details on the 70 Supreme:
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....er=asc&start=0
I've actually made lots of progress on this car but need to post some new pics and updates.
and here is the thread on my 71 442:
http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...42-convertible
-Joe
August 29th, 2011, 04:58 AM
#109
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Location: Manassas, VA
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Nice Joe! Both are sweet rides! Need to do the cruise scene now before it gets too late in the year! Ever been to Dulles Town Center on a Friday night? Or Burger King in Manassas Saturday afternoons? Probably seen my driver, the LeMans around, drive the tires off that thing, owned it since '91. It's ready for a freshening up now though. First, time to focus on my 'bird, once the cutlass is done!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...71+lemans.html
If you go up to Classic, and talk to Jim, the owner, mention me, couldn't hurt, and may be able to make room for one of yours sooner than later.
-Mike
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...71+lemans.html
If you go up to Classic, and talk to Jim, the owner, mention me, couldn't hurt, and may be able to make room for one of yours sooner than later.
-Mike
Last edited by HWYSTR455; August 29th, 2011 at 05:02 AM.
August 29th, 2011, 09:26 AM
#110
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 653
Thanks again Mike. Lemans looks very nice too. My 71 442 is still in PA getting some work done but I may head over to Dulles Town Center or BK before the winter hits in the 70 Supreme. County Trans is putting a shift kit in the TH350 on Wednesday. Hampton talked me out of doing the stall converter until after we add the new rear end and the exhaust. Headers and full exhaust will be next on that car. The 3.42 posi rear will hopefully be ready to swap for the 2.78 peg leg soon. Slowly but surely coming together. Your post here gave me some ideas on the engine compartment work and undercarriage anti rust/detailing. Please keep the info and pics coming. Maybe I'll see you around at one of the local events or get togethers.
-Joe
-Joe
August 29th, 2011, 10:09 AM
#111
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Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 694
This Friday at Dulles Town Center is supposed to be big, and Monday is teh Clifton car show, which has a ton of Oldsmobiles. Last year I saw no less than 6 W-30s, and a bunch of Cutlass' and 442s. Jill's House show is Saturday in Springfield, another good one.
http://www.capitalcruisin.com
Check the Cruise and Events sections....
Yeah, I'll be a around, flag me down if you see me!
.
http://www.capitalcruisin.com
Check the Cruise and Events sections....
Yeah, I'll be a around, flag me down if you see me!
.
August 29th, 2011, 12:27 PM
#112
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 653
Wow. I didn't know about most of this stuff. I went to Burger King in Manassas about a decade ago but there was no where near 300 cars there. It's about a 45 minute drive for me but it sounds like it may be worth it. My Dad was a member of the Capitol City Rockets so I did a few car shows/get-togethers with them and I've raced at 75/80 dragway a few times..that's about it.
Guess I need to get out more. I appreciate all the info!
-Joe
Guess I need to get out more. I appreciate all the info!
-Joe
November 11th, 2011, 12:00 PM
#113
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fabulous Las Vegas
Posts: 194
Thank you sniswend, have some time in it for sure! Appreciate others' opinions!
The converter is an TCi Break-a-way, with the anti-baloon plate. It's pretty tight for an off the shelf converter, stall isn't too high where it heats up in stop & go, and the flash is still good for performance use. Once I get the car out on the road and start dialing it in, I'll report back on the specifics. I've used them before though, and have to say I really like them. And I've tried a LOT of converters!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-241101/
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/th350-400-...ing-plate.html
The rear, well that's a sore spot, kind of. There's a couple things the guy did I wasn't happy about, and it's going to have to be checked out again. The backlash for one is way too sloppy, that thing would sing if I left it the way it is. Anyway, to have it gone through I think I paid like $850. Some shops are a little less, some a little more, but that's a pretty good basis for figuring out about what it would cost. Of course, that's with no parts, I bought all my own parts. I think total, I have about $1650 in parts in it, to give you an idea. I bought a piece here, a piece there, so it wasn't like it was a lump-sum hit on the wallet.
Next time, if there is one! Next time I do a rear that I want to use the housing I have on hand, I'm just going to ship it to Moser.They can clean the housing, toss it on a jig, check for straightness, weld the brackets and tubes, and assemble it, all within a reasonable price, and you know it's right. (and I spent about that much anyway).
If you don't care about the housing, I say buy a Moser 12-bolt housing, and have the big Ford ends put on it. They have housing and axle packages that are right around $850. If you want a complete one, all the good stuff, the one I priced was like $2350, to give you an idea.
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The converter is an TCi Break-a-way, with the anti-baloon plate. It's pretty tight for an off the shelf converter, stall isn't too high where it heats up in stop & go, and the flash is still good for performance use. Once I get the car out on the road and start dialing it in, I'll report back on the specifics. I've used them before though, and have to say I really like them. And I've tried a LOT of converters!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-241101/
http://www.tciauto.com/tc/th350-400-...ing-plate.html
The rear, well that's a sore spot, kind of. There's a couple things the guy did I wasn't happy about, and it's going to have to be checked out again. The backlash for one is way too sloppy, that thing would sing if I left it the way it is. Anyway, to have it gone through I think I paid like $850. Some shops are a little less, some a little more, but that's a pretty good basis for figuring out about what it would cost. Of course, that's with no parts, I bought all my own parts. I think total, I have about $1650 in parts in it, to give you an idea. I bought a piece here, a piece there, so it wasn't like it was a lump-sum hit on the wallet.
Next time, if there is one! Next time I do a rear that I want to use the housing I have on hand, I'm just going to ship it to Moser.They can clean the housing, toss it on a jig, check for straightness, weld the brackets and tubes, and assemble it, all within a reasonable price, and you know it's right. (and I spent about that much anyway).
If you don't care about the housing, I say buy a Moser 12-bolt housing, and have the big Ford ends put on it. They have housing and axle packages that are right around $850. If you want a complete one, all the good stuff, the one I priced was like $2350, to give you an idea.
.
Thanks.
November 11th, 2011, 12:26 PM
#114
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 694
Thanks!
Cover, well, I checked around and Moser had them. I mentioned it to the shop that did my rear, and they said they would give me the same price. So I sourced it through them.
When I went to pick up the rear, I asked where he got it, and he said that it was a 'Trick Flow', I believe, and when he got it, it was in a Moser box. He called Moser, and they said they aren't in the catalog, and they are made by them for re-branding. (Notivce no name on the cover). Then he explained that the original one he got that Moser has listed didn't fit, and he sent it back. And at that time the sales person said that was the only one they have, which made him shop elsewhere.
Anyway, I can find out exactly who it was through if you're interested, but that's the story I got!
,
Cover, well, I checked around and Moser had them. I mentioned it to the shop that did my rear, and they said they would give me the same price. So I sourced it through them.
When I went to pick up the rear, I asked where he got it, and he said that it was a 'Trick Flow', I believe, and when he got it, it was in a Moser box. He called Moser, and they said they aren't in the catalog, and they are made by them for re-branding. (Notivce no name on the cover). Then he explained that the original one he got that Moser has listed didn't fit, and he sent it back. And at that time the sales person said that was the only one they have, which made him shop elsewhere.
Anyway, I can find out exactly who it was through if you're interested, but that's the story I got!
,
Last edited by HWYSTR455; November 11th, 2011 at 12:37 PM.
November 14th, 2011, 09:15 PM
#115
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Winterset, IA
Posts: 30
I used a simple Harbor freight siphon fed cup gun, a clear plastic hose from ACE hardware, and a couple different brass fittings with holes in them, and held it together with some hose clamps to coat the inside of my frame. It worked really well. I found a fitting which sprayed in almost all directions at the same time.
The gun was cheap ($10?) another couple bucks for the clamps, hose, and fittings. The gun could only push the Por15 through about a 4 foot length of hose. A better gun with a metal cup (mine was plastic) would be able to do a farther stretch with a better pattern than mine. I didnt want to screw up my gravity HVLP's.
I haven't started on any of my bodywork but i will be using this in the cowl area and anywhere else i cant get to. I can get a picture of my set up when I get to my booth if you would like. I was very happy with how well it worked for my frame.
The gun was cheap ($10?) another couple bucks for the clamps, hose, and fittings. The gun could only push the Por15 through about a 4 foot length of hose. A better gun with a metal cup (mine was plastic) would be able to do a farther stretch with a better pattern than mine. I didnt want to screw up my gravity HVLP's.
I haven't started on any of my bodywork but i will be using this in the cowl area and anywhere else i cant get to. I can get a picture of my set up when I get to my booth if you would like. I was very happy with how well it worked for my frame.
November 16th, 2011, 09:33 AM
#116
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 694
I used a simple Harbor freight siphon fed cup gun, a clear plastic hose from ACE hardware, and a couple different brass fittings with holes in them, and held it together with some hose clamps to coat the inside of my frame. It worked really well. I found a fitting which sprayed in almost all directions at the same time.
The gun was cheap ($10?) another couple bucks for the clamps, hose, and fittings. The gun could only push the Por15 through about a 4 foot length of hose. A better gun with a metal cup (mine was plastic) would be able to do a farther stretch with a better pattern than mine. I didnt want to screw up my gravity HVLP's.
I haven't started on any of my bodywork but i will be using this in the cowl area and anywhere else i cant get to. I can get a picture of my set up when I get to my booth if you would like. I was very happy with how well it worked for my frame.
The gun was cheap ($10?) another couple bucks for the clamps, hose, and fittings. The gun could only push the Por15 through about a 4 foot length of hose. A better gun with a metal cup (mine was plastic) would be able to do a farther stretch with a better pattern than mine. I didnt want to screw up my gravity HVLP's.
I haven't started on any of my bodywork but i will be using this in the cowl area and anywhere else i cant get to. I can get a picture of my set up when I get to my booth if you would like. I was very happy with how well it worked for my frame.
.
November 16th, 2011, 09:41 AM
#118
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 694
One I forgot to post before, the deck lid and wing fitment. The shop says the repop deck lids fit well, and require minimal work. The wing also fit good, and required a little work to fit flush, but not excessive.
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November 16th, 2011, 12:20 PM
#120
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 694
I'm anxious to see the final results too! Should be soon!
The wing and deck lid came from Parts Place. The deck lid had cutouts in the bracing so mounting the wing was a no-brainer.
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The wing and deck lid came from Parts Place. The deck lid had cutouts in the bracing so mounting the wing was a no-brainer.
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