charlierogers

pics,

charlierogers

pics,,,

pcard

Hey Charlie - looking gooood.

davebw31

charlierogers: Nice restore project and looks like a quality job on the body/paint work. If you really want to be "correct" there are several (and I mean several) items jump out at me that are not correct for a W30/BOB Olds engine compartment. Here are just a few that jump out at me:

A) wrong air cleaner base for a 70' model IE no hole at bottom of snorkel inlet for mounting the sensor for the N9 option (that is part of the Calif. Emission requirement so W30/W31 could be sold there). The snorkel is smaller (narrower) than a correct W25 ram air base were it attaches to the base. It "swedges" out about a 1/4 " about 1" before it is attaches to the base.

B) the heater hoses clamps are not correct. The correct clamps are "army green" in color and look just like the fuel hose clamps, a "flat, tension, band clamp". They are 5/8" and 3/4" and they are harder to find than "hens teeth" (the correct ones are). In-Line tube sells them, but they are not correct.

C) the Alt. fan is wrong color (finish). The originals were "hot dipped galvanized". They look the same as the original ign. coil brkt. www.ss396.com has a kit with the fan, pulley, wave washer, and nut. They also have the correct repo of the "WB" code adjuster bolt with the "captured washer".

D) the dip stick was not installed when engine was painted. Only the tube was installed, therefore the dip stick should be "natural". With the "blue plastic plug" at the end of the "loop" also unpainted.

E) it is hard to tell, but I believe the "finish" of the power brake booster is not "Gold Iiradate" (sic).

F) Hard to change now, but the firewall is the not "Ultra Flat Black" as we called it. The firewall looks like you painted it "semi-gloss ?". The "heater core case" is not glossy enough. Those were made by an "outside vendor" and were shipped to us in "gloss black".

Well, I could go on, but I am tired of typing.

davebw31

OK, I went back and looked at some more pics. of the brake booster and the finish looks OK to me. Must have been the light on the pic. I was looking at. But I did notice that the "frt. disc brk. limiter" mounting brkt. is the wrong finish along with the mounting bolt/star captured washer. Both should be "gray phosphate". As I was looking at the same pics. I noticed that the large concave washers for the "upper control arm shaft" should be a "cadmium" finish in color, not Gold Irradiate.

There is still more, anyways, beddy time for us old folks.

charlierogers

yikes, thanks for the tips dave! i can and will change some of those things. not much i can do about the firewall paint {this is my fault as i changed gears in the middle of the resto for what the car was going to be} brake booster is gold Iiradate{ i think its the pic}. we do have the correct dipstick. anyway thanks again for the tips.
charlie,,,

charlierogers

i have a few things going to get the gray phosphate, i will get those things off and throw them in to be done! thanks charlie,,,

davebw31

charlierogers: what finish did you do for the two mounting self tapping bolts with a star washer for mounting the horns to the core support? Everyone does them in gray phosphate. The bolt/star washer should both be "silver zinc". Also the "hood spring" should be "black zinc". If done right it has a blue/purple hue to it! lol You really can go "crazy" on this stuff. lol

BTW: you must have been "bit by the Krayta bug" as I see all of those "tags" on the chassis. Very few were even used especially at the Lansing Final Assembly Plant. I saw/heard Line Inspectors get there royal a**es chewed out in Quality Control Meetings for allowing the tags to be left on, when "line audits were performed". Most of the chassis parts did not have tags. Example: There was only ONE rear sway bar for an A body car. Why in the hell would Olds put a tag on it???? DUH. Now in the GMAPD warehouse, they did use tags to identify parts. Most if not all parts I saw in the parts warehouses had tags. Olds considered those tags to be not very attracted to the buyer. Any that could be seen without going under the car were to be removed. It is like this big X put on the frt. of the LH valve cover. What! I saw many, many engines in the "engine run in area" and never saw an X on any W30 engine. Whenever I was in the plant any W30/31 or any particular car on the assembly line that had black walled G78X14 tires with steel wheels and it was a W30/31, and had 9 million two digit letter code stickers on the RH side of the windshield I checked it out, because it was a race car, engineering special build, or something very unusual. Soooooooooo all those tags in your engine compartment were not allowed to be left on. Besides that they were not used, at least in Lansing when I was there. As a Quality Control executive I would have been required to write people up for that!

Del70

Great info Dave. – Please keep on supplying us all with your firsthand knowledge on how these cars were really built. great information

charlierogers

now thats some inside info! dave speaking of horns....... would you know what the hi/low notes were? for and if the horns pointed to the sides or at each other? i cant seem to get an answer on this.
thanks charlie,,,,,

junior supercar

listen to dave. not only has he been there when these were built, but he's gone through this with his W-31 resto. I too have seen waaaay too many cars that got attacked by stickers (or those paper tags, whatever you want to call them), but lots of original cars I've looked at rarely have any. others are also right, if you are getting your car judged be prepared for lots of **** details

given that, very nice car. dave and octania mentioned a lot of little details I saw incorrect. unless I missed it, I didn't see this one mentioned. on SSI/II cars the face of the drums were blacked out. don't forget that on your rear drums. I believe there was also a paint dab on the dipstick tube. I'd have to look at my 70 engine assembly manual for the correct color, but believe it was an inch down.

also, very nice to see a Keep you GM car all GM sticker on the air cleaner that does not have the NJ code on it. lots of resto places sell that as a one size fits all. it's a 71 code iirc and obviously not correct for every car.

keep those pics coming

stevengerard

wow looking great. To keep up with the little things there have been lots of discussion recently about the color of the oil sending unit. Most seemed to come painted black originally

charlierogers

thanks steve, i followed that discussion and it was very interesting. seems there is no absolute correct answer for this. i have heard from a few respected members here and one says one way the other says another. seems a little strange the vender would coat these cadium for protection from weather, gas,oil, salt, ect, ect, than the factory shoots them black for what reason? who knows. anyway i am leaving that as is and am in the process of changing a few things.
charlie,,,

charlierogers

thanks for the compliment! i did not know the face of the drums were black. i think the dab of color on dipstick and tube was orange. i have been getting conflicting answers that the dipstick is painted engine color and some say raw {no paint}? thanks for the tips.
charlie,,,

davebw31

junior supercar: we go way back you and me and no bad feelings on what you said. I am 68 now and it does get "foggy" now and then! Yes you are correct as both SSI and SSII brake drums were fogged with black paint. A dab of paint was on the tube, forget what color. Also, agree on the air cleaner emissions decal. Ram air was different for sure! I was given three by a use to be friend and is the "paper decal" so it goes bad (wrinkles up) with age. When I replace it I am thinking of using Eastwoods Clear Satin to make it last longer.

stevengerard

I think the engine manual would specify the oil tube and dip stick. I'll check and see. One thing that always confused me was how the engine hook is painted blue on W30/31s. I just don't think the factory would do such a perfect job of taping around the manifold and paint the hook blue. Dave can you clarify that. In the engine assembly manual it lists what shouldn't be painted and the hook is an item that is not "taped" but with an aluminum manifold I would think they would cover the whole top of the manifold - hook included. Thus I left mine natural.

My hard top has it natural too but not sure if that's original or not.

davebw31

stevengeard: the W30/31 s were not built on the reg. engine sub-assembly line. They were built in a room off the engine sub-assembly line. The water neck and frt. engine hoist brkt. were painted by the person assembling the engine, before being installed.

The dipstick tube was installed when the engine was painted, along with the starter (alumn. nose only) and ign. dist. (base of dist. and clamp/bolt). Only "over spray" should be on the starter and ign. dist. The starter support brt. may or may not be painted, as I think it depended on the mood of the guy assembling the engine.

charlierogers

ok, got some more pics. made a few changes to get it a little more correct. pulled heater core box to paint with a little bit of gloss, changed air cleaner due too mix up. I had incorrectly installed the repo air cleaner. changed color on disc brk limiter bracket and bolt. horns have self tapping/star washer bolts silver zinc plated.sent a couple things to get black zinc plated including hood spring. and a few other small details we are working on.
Charlie,,,

charlierogers

more pics,

charlierogers

mre pics, fogged brk drums he,he,

charlierogers

more front end,

charlierogers

well just about finished up. been a long summer with work and other car projects. will post some better finished photos later this week.
Charlie,,,

charlierogers

well its finally finished!

charlierogers

more pics, sun was fading in and out.

charlierogers

pics,pics

charlierogers

pics pics,,,

charlierogers

last pics of this thread!!!! Thanks Larry Jr and Larry Sr!

Sampson

Charlie great pics of a great car! Job well done!

RetroRanger

wow that looks really great Im sure it was tons of hard work congratulations on the finished car its fantastic

OLD SKL 69

Charlie, just went through the entire thread. What a beautiful job, congrats on a superb job. Looks like it belongs in a museum.

2olds

Nice the car looks great.

davebw31

Very, very nice restoration Dude!

Not to be picking the restoration, but I noticed two items that jumped out at me and in my opinion are not "correct".

1) The yellow warning label for posi. rear at underside of deck lid is wrong shape. It's corners should be rounded, not square off.

2) The "horn relay" cover should be Gold Di-Chromate, not sliver zinc.

junior supercar

that jumped out at you? although I went back and looked at the pics he posted and I can see that now since he highlighted that in a shot.

I thought you might point out the TH400 dipstick, which is red. Or the W-30 emblem on the fenders (did pace cars get those?) although I still see those reproduction inline tube heater hose clamps. they have two versions now, with the "second" versions being more correct. I haven't compared them to the originals I have yet, but need to. should the plastic cap on the alt be black? How come you changed the shorter heater hose from passing over the longer one to passing under? I thought it went over the longer one.

otherwise nice car and I'll get to see it in a couple weeks.

Vette rod

Congrats Roger and Theresa on the Concours Gold Certification at the Muscle Car and Corevette Nationals. Glad your first show with the car was such a success.

Everett also sends along his thanks for your help with his little, um, situation...

Indy Guy

Car is for sale now?

charlierogers

yep car is for sale. my wife and I agree that using this car for a cruiser/driver and logging a lot of miles would just hurt the value too much. we think the car would be better off in a nice collection somewhere. the wife is taking my 66 Malibu convertible 396 4spd and I have my 57 chevy gasser. both nice drivers that we wont have to worry about if they get nicks/scratches or if rocks are pinging off the bottom as the roads in Illinois are ALLWAYS under construction! I think we will be looking for a dry 70-72 cutlass vert to paint twilight blue with white guts and a 455/4spd combo and a w-25 hood. but need to get rid of a couple other cars first. sometimes high end restored cars with large price tags take awhile to sell {example lee"s 70 442 w-30 4spd vert} our car will not command that 200k+ price tag but the quality of the cars are the same and there is a hefty reserve on the pace car. we figured a run on ebay this month then again in june. maybe a couple big shows. then off to one of the big auction houses.

JpMotorsports

Beautiful car!!!