Console restoration and bucket seats
January 29th, 2011, 04:36 PM
#1
http://www.youtube.com/wa
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Posts: 291
Console restoration and bucket seats
January 29th, 2011, 05:12 PM
#3
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Location: USA
Posts: 2,200
Looks fantastic. I want to perfect mine as well for a sale.
I'm guessing you used the SEM paints ??
Don't forget to use the SEM low luster clear coat with the rubberized texture to seal and protect them.
So quick question......
Are there any bolts holding that console to the floor forward of the shifter or no ??
I'm guessing you used the SEM paints ??
Don't forget to use the SEM low luster clear coat with the rubberized texture to seal and protect them.
So quick question......
Are there any bolts holding that console to the floor forward of the shifter or no ??
January 29th, 2011, 07:25 PM
#4
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yeah sem would work great but i got it done by some guy that dyed them to original color really cheap and there are 2 brackets that hold the console one in the front and back and the shifter is bolted in im pretty sure
January 29th, 2011, 09:17 PM
#7
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Location: Austin, Texas
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Vinyl paint, dye, etc......it's still a paint coating that lays on the surface for the most part so it WILL scratch, etc. just like any other paint/coating so treat it accordingly.
Looking good.
Looking good.
January 30th, 2011, 09:46 AM
#9
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Location: USA
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SEM Paints are used by body shops everywhere.
They just call it "Dyeing it back to OE colors".
Here's a video Pete did for Fbodywarehouse to show you.
http://www.fbodywarehouse.com/fbw/home.php?cat=213
That's why I said you should really look into the clear coat to protect it.
Last edited by Aceshigh; January 30th, 2011 at 09:49 AM.
January 30th, 2011, 01:14 PM
#11
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Location: Plano, TX
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VERY nice looking! Well worth the price you told me last week.
I am pretty sure "dye" is very thin permanent coloring that is absorbed by the fibers in the fabric and paint is a thicker coloring that sits on the surface. Yes vinyl can be dyed during the the mfg process (like the coloring process of any plastic), but after it is made, it can only be painted.
Now there ~might~ be a chemical coloring that might etch the surface to bond better, but it would not be a true dye.
"true dye - the sole contents of a red towel when washed with white clothes......................"
The SEM Surecoat that I used stays on the surface and is subject to damage like any painted surface. Yours might be the same stuff. My improper prep and first experience with an air gun did not help either...
I hope you were able to get a small container of the leftover paint for touchup.
If it gets thick from storage, water can be used to thin it.
I am pretty sure "dye" is very thin permanent coloring that is absorbed by the fibers in the fabric and paint is a thicker coloring that sits on the surface. Yes vinyl can be dyed during the the mfg process (like the coloring process of any plastic), but after it is made, it can only be painted.
Now there ~might~ be a chemical coloring that might etch the surface to bond better, but it would not be a true dye.
"true dye - the sole contents of a red towel when washed with white clothes......................"
The SEM Surecoat that I used stays on the surface and is subject to damage like any painted surface. Yours might be the same stuff. My improper prep and first experience with an air gun did not help either...
I hope you were able to get a small container of the leftover paint for touchup.
If it gets thick from storage, water can be used to thin it.
February 2nd, 2011, 08:51 PM
#12
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 601
Interesting topic about dye, leather etc. On a long trip with my buddy on the weekend (Rolex 24 Hour in Florida) we had that very conversation. He's in the leather business. Everywhere from Italy to China. He explains only the best leather or Final Grain is dyed in a water based anyline dye. Speaking in general terms, everything else is an imprint and paint. Including SEM. Your not DYEING anything, your just laying it on top.
Mike
Mike
February 3rd, 2011, 04:08 AM
#14
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Location: Plano, TX
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The paint shop DID remix a correct color for me free of charge so i resprayed the parts.
Color now matches but is still a very fragile finish. My guess is i did not prep it right. The instruction sheet was not exactly correct in saying that only certain materials needed their prep chemicals - they all do!
I just let it all be and am just very careful with it all.
February 3rd, 2011, 07:43 AM
#16
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Location: Plano, TX
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Exactly. The instructions I got said that AP only needed to be used on certain types of materials, which did not cover the parts i was doing. So I did not use the AP. The paint shop verified the same reasoning.
My advice is to pay the extra and use it regardless. Persoanally I would like to see how durable it is after using AP...
My advice is to pay the extra and use it regardless. Persoanally I would like to see how durable it is after using AP...
February 3rd, 2011, 08:03 AM
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Erie,PA
Posts: 3,814
I have a dupont mix for the correct 72 dark saddle color.I have one mix for vinyl & plastics,and another for the metal items.I also have the 70 dark sadle mix,as well as a variety of the other interior colors.The rattle cans being offered by the resto companies are too far off.
I do NOT clearcoat anything.I want to retain as much of the grain texture as possible,so adding layers will only take that away.
What color did you use Camel Tan?
I do NOT clearcoat anything.I want to retain as much of the grain texture as possible,so adding layers will only take that away.
What color did you use Camel Tan?
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