mv213

OK this is going to sound stupid! I got my console out thanks to some instructions from member 70442clone. The console consists of three main pieces plus the box lid. It's very obvious how to take the bottom (long) piece off. What I cant see is how to take the top (box) part off from the middle long piece. The box part is made of steel as rather than plastic, and has the lock cylinder in it.

Do I need to drill out the rivets holding the chrome trim piece on around the top of the box? Or is there a simple trick to getting it apart?

Thanks!!!

mv213

OK, to disassemble the top (box) from the rest of the console:

Removed the lid--there are three screws holding the lid to the console body.
Remove the lock. There is one Phillips screw on the back of the lock holding it in place.
Notice there are two black rivets on each side holding the chrome strip in place around the top of the box. These are plastic push rivets. I got two of mine out by using a utility knife blade to pry them out. The other two, I took a small sheet metal screw and screwed into the center of the rivet, then used pliers to pull the screw and rivet out together. Worked great.

Then simply remove the chrome trim from around the top of the box, then the metal outside shell of the box will slide straight up and off.

To remove the other chrome strip, which goes around the front of the console: Use some regular slip-joint pliers to straighten the tabs on the underside of the console. Get them good and straight then you can push them back through the slots and the chrome strip will come off. Be careful not to bend it.

I'll post pictures a little later in my interior resto thread.....

My442

I found the plastic rivets that hold the trim on to the top of the console....

mv213

Tomorrow I'm going to bring the console shell parts in and give them a good scrubbing in the bathtub. I've ordered some SEM Landau black to paint the plastic parts with....hopefully it will work on the metal shell as well....

70Post

Is this a console that was black originally?

The "metal" part has a thin layer of grained vinyl over it....no matter...the SEM works on plastic, vinyl and metal.

You might consider using some type of adhesion promoter on the parts also....may not be that necessary if the console has already been painted before but if it was originally black then I don't think there is any paint on there (unless someone painted it later). The other "colors" are painted on so adhesion promoter may not be necessary. You can get something like SEM Sand Free or locally, you should be able to get Bulldog Adhesion Promoter (O'Reilly's Auto Parts has it down here).



Pay attention to the air temperatures also...you don't want to shoot the stuff in cool/cold or real humid environments. Make sure your parts are at that temp also....so if they're outside in the cold let them warm up before shooting.

mv213

Thanks for the info! I assumed that the grain on the metal piece was stamped in. The console was originally blue. I ordered the SEM pre-coat stuff, it's called Plastic Prep. Hopefully that's what I need. I can test it on the inside of the console anyways....

I'm changing the color of my interior from "bright blue" to pearl, I have a thread in this forum about what I've done so far. I'll post some pics of the console repaint/reassembly in that thread, when I get a little further along. Thanks again!

70Post

So--you are going with the 1970 Blue "Pearl/Metallic" interior color?

I call it "Jetson's Blue".....has a cool space-age look to it.

mv213

No, sorry, I meant pearl white with black carpet, console and dash.

70Post

That'll work also...a classic combo.

If you are spraying the SEM out of a spray can try and position (and move) your parts so you can spray while holding the can UPRIGHT....not a big deal on small parts but on large parts it can help. The spray pattern seems to get a little "dry" along the edges when you tilt the can a lot...a good example of this would be when you try to shoot the top of the dash pad.

Also...the SEM paint is VERY THIN so you don't want to hose it on real heavy as it will just run.

Read the instructions on your adhesion promoter can and follow them.

mv213

I think that pearl blue was actually called "Bright Blue" but I'm not 100% on that. At any rate I don't like it because everything in the interior is blue....I prefer the black and white color scheme because everything is not the same color.

I remember that (vaguely) about SEM, thanks for the reminder. Back in about '84 I redid the interior of my '71 El Camino and used SEM on the hard vinyl parts and dash cover. I was amazed how well it worked and how durable it was.

KZ442

Were can you buy these rivets?

mv213

I haven't looked yet...I've seen similar items at the local auto parts store in the fastener section. They have a lot of reproduction screws and plastic rivet type items. I'll let you know when I find a reasonable substitute.

My442

You won't find those rivets in any store....trust me.

fjross

I was reading thru this thread and was wondering if anybody has tried to polish out any scratches that are in the chrome/alloy trim. I have collected a few consoles, but even the ones in best of shape have some scratches in the trim pcs. I wondering if maybe the large pc. that goes around the front should be polished before removing since it looks fragile.

Dave

507OLDS

I have those plastic rivets.I get them in a box of 20,as I do a lot of console restorations.You can order them at some of the lesser-kown/old-school auto parts stores & some auto body supplies stores.The SEM paints are one of the better brands to use.If you are doing black,you are real lucky,as they don't have a lot of the exact colors,& the colors from the resto vendors are never exactly right.The SEM Landau black is a great match to the original black.Other brands like the Krylon Fusion is too glossy,eventhough it says satin black,& it never seems to adhere as well as the SEM.
When disassembling & reassembling the consoles,you want to be ginger with them,as they are 40-year olds pieces of plastic,& the type of plastic is not as flexible as todays plastics.The console is stronger when it's all together.A small pair of flat-nose pliers works great to twist the tabs on the large aluminum trim.Needle-nose don't work very well,as they tend to curve the tabs,& you need to straighten them out perfectly,to pass them through.To remove the upper section,I take a utility knife & slice the heads off of the plastic rivets.Then I can work the remains of the rivets out.You just don't want to force them out because those little plastic ears can break-off.
For those of you that have the hinge area broken-off,& think the console is junk,this is now the time that you can correct that problem,& make that area stronger than it ever was,& will all be hidden away when reassembled.You can take a piece of sheet-metal or thin aluminum,long enough to take all 3 of the hinge screws,& place it on the backside of the hinge flange of the console top.You will need to line-up & drill the 3 holes in it for the hing screws.You will need to do some preliminary mock-ups with the hinge & lid,to figure out exact where the strip of metal needs to be placed.Once you have that figured out,take a thin strip of two-faced tape & fasten the metal strip to the backside of the hinge flange.Once the console is reassembled,you will be able to refasten the hinge into that strip,& it will never break off,unless to break the whole top of the console off.If you reuse the original screws that originally fastened the hinge,you will need to trim them down,if you don't have the section of plastic rail that broke-off.If you still have the plastic rail,reinstall it with the hinge.It will act as a spacer,& give you the correct look.If you don't have that rail,no big deal,as it is hardly noticeable,but you will need to trim the screws down,so they don't poke into the metal surround trim.
Sorry for writing a book here.Just sending some helpful info.

mv213

Hi Brian,thanks for posting all that good info! It will come in handy for guys who want to restore their console. I already got mine apart. I'm lucky, it doesn't have any broken parts and all the wiring is intact. All the lights even work!

Dave, I believe that trim is anodized aluminum. I think about all you can really do is polish it very lightly to clean it. You don't want to polish the anodizing off. I'll try it and let you know how it turns out.

507OLDS

That aluminim trim is clear anodized.Unless it's NOS,it probably has their share of nicks & scratches,which can make them look bad.If you got a console that has been bounced around at different swap meets & such,then they look worse.Polishing them won't do much.I take all of mine & wet-sand them until ALL of the anodize is completely gone.I start with a coarser grit to cut most of it off,then finsh it with a finer grit.The upper piece takes me about an hour,& the larger piece takes a little longer than that.When you are doing the proccess,you will be able to see a line,where the anodize is still intact.You will know when it's all gone.Take your time.This proccess will also remove most or all of the fine scratches.When I get them finished,I run them on a buffer,which makes them look like a mirror.They never looked this good.If you really wanted to,you could have them re-anodized.I also repaint the black stripe in the upper piece.My consoles are second to NONE.I know you only see a certain percentage of the console after it is installed,but some of my customers are real picky,like myself,so I make them nice enough that you could take them to a console show,if there was such a thing.

mv213

Hi Brian,

Do you use anything to keep the aluminum from oxidizing later, like a clear coat of lacquer, or is it not necessary?

Also, do you do anything about the creaking of the console? I was thinking of gluing the lower base to the upper piece to prevent creaking when the console is bumped by a leg or whatever. Maybe that's not such a hot idea.

507OLDS

I would not glue the two console halves together,for the simple fact that IF you ever had to separate them,you probably won't.I've never really had too much problems with creaking,but my cars are also not the quietest things either.I suppose you could put a light coating of clear grease along the rails that interlock with each other,before assembly.That should let each half move without creaking against each other.
As for the aluminum trims.you could clear coat them,after the final wet-sanding,& NO buffing.That would give you a very similar look compared to the original when new.They never looked chrome,just bright.It would take take a decent amount of temperature changes or weathering,to tarnish the uncoated aluminum.You are obviously restoring the car,& do not have plans on using the car like they were when they were originally purchased as an everyday car,so they will last.If you do not clear them,you can always repolish them later on,as a touch-up,but nothing as involved as when you initially do it.Keep the questions coming guys.There are NO bad questions.We can all learn together.

mv213

Thanks Brian, I appreciate your sharing your experience and insight! I'll probably try the wet sanding/clear coat approach.

mv213

I finished my console this weekend. I'm holding off on reinstalling it until I get the dash done though. Thanks to Brian and everyone who suggested various ideas. I used the SEM landau black, perfect color and gloss. Sanded and polished the trim, did not clear coat it. Also replaced all the light bulbs and tested the wiring harness using a battery charger, everything lights up nice. I cleaned up the rear courtesy lamp lens with some soapy bleachy water.

mv213

Forgot to attach these.

mv213

Apparently nobody liked the finished product!

Actually just wanted to add a note about SEM vinyl dye and plastic prep. The plastic prep did a great job of getting the dye to stick. I tried the dye without the plastic prep and got some fisheyes. And that was after a thorough scrubbing down with lacquer thinner. After using the plastic prep it worked great. I used just about exactly one can of the dye on the console. I ordered two more cans for the dashboard.

Thanks to everybody for their advice on the dye and refinishing the metal. I'm pretty pleased with how the console came out.

bccan

Does anybody (Brian) have an Au-Ve-co or equivalent part # for the above mentioned rivets?

70Post

That looks very good! Next time you are cleaning plastic parts don't use lacquer thinner to clean them. It can soften and "melt" the plastic + it really doesn't do too good of a job of cleaning if you are wiping the surface with it (vs submerging or rinsing the part with thinner...which you DEFINITELY DON'T WANT TO DO ON PLASTIC PARTS).

Use a soap-based cleaner with water (hot water preferably), scrub brush, etc.....the soap helps lift and carry the dirt and oil off the surface. Lacquer thinner tends to just liquify oils and then they just spread around when you wipe it.

My442

Prep Sol works great om cleaning plastic with no damage.

507OLDS

I just scrub my consoles with a good dish soap & warm water.It seems to help if I put a mist coat on 1st,then lay a thicker coat on & be done.I normally do these inside,but I did do a batch of consoles outside this past summer,& the conditions were really good.It was in the 70's with some sun.Those turned-out real good.I will post some "before & after" pictures of one of those consoles,& you might be pretty suprised it is the same one.I'll get that part number for you guys,for the plastic rivets.

mv213

Great! I used some incorrect black plastic "christmas tree" rivets that they use on modern cars now. Don't look too bad but not really correct.

jpm

507OLDS

The part number on the box,for the plastic rivets,is 14016.Auveco products.This is a box of 25,but I do know that you can get smaller quantities.On that back of this back,it also says "tail light push-in type retainers",and has GM#16500308,and Chrysler#6500787.Fits 3/16" hole.

mv213

Great, thanks Brian!

jensenracing77

just bumping this thread. some awesome info here.

Aceshigh

Thanks for bumping.

I needed this info and now I'm subscribed to keep it. Console restoration looks mint.
Looks like the same one I saw a guy trying to sell on Ebay for $400 just a few weeks ago.
Anyone know where to get the carpet lining inside the console ??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

theoldsrocket

its not carpet lining its some crushed felt paint or something

507OLDS

Some call it flocking.You can get a kit from Eastwood to reflock the liners & compartment.If/when I have a console that is real nice,and real clean,I leave that area original,as it gives that certain look,and shows how nice it always was.Unless the console was weathered,or something was spilled in there,the original flocking usually looks pretty good.

jensenracing77

if i am doing a black console in black again, all i need is the plastic prep and the SEM black, right? i don't need the primer do i? i done one several years ago and think i only used the plastic prep. also how far does one can of each go? i plan to do 2 consoles and other parts at the same time.

501Paratrooper

x2

scott_442

About ready to tackle one of these myself...sure appreciate you pro's sharing the info. Brian, what grit sandpaper do you use for wet sanding the anodize off the trim?

mv213

I'm not Brian but I used some 800 wet/dry followed with some 1500. Then to the buffing wheel. It polishes up nicely. Just be careful not to let it catch on the wheel. It can be dangerous. A portable buffing tool might work better, something a little bigger than a dremel but not a like a big 8" buffer.

507OLDS

I wash/scrub the console,with hot water & dish soap.Once it's dry,wipe it again with alcohol,then air-hose it,to make sure there isn't any fibers from the cloth or anything on the console,then spray lighter,thin coats of the SEM.If the 1st coat lays on good,without separating or fish-eye,give it a nice 2nd coat & be done.
As for the aluminum trim,I start with 120(if they are really scratched),then 240,and go up.It takes me a good hour or more to wet-sand the coating off of each piece.You will be able to see the color difference,even when wet,where the bare aluminum is,and where the coating is still on.I get all of it off before going to the finer grits.
You want to have the top piece all polished before relaying the black stripe because you will get compound & dust in there anyway.i have done the stripe a few different ways.I have masked the whole thing off,and sprayed the stripe,and I have also used a good black paint marker & went wround it without masking.If you get some of the paint marker on the polished surface,you can take it off with your thumb nail.

mv213

120 eh? No wonder it took me so long to sand that anodizing off! It did come out really nice but it took a looong time!