Dash restoration
January 29th, 2017, 11:58 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: North Haven CT
Posts: 239
Dash restoration
I'm looking to get my dash pad repaired and dash restored. It would be mint if not for a crack dead center of the windshield on the pad only. Has any member had any luck with just dash's and I've also looked a bit at classic car plastics for the job. Worst part was getting the thing out without damaging anything else. Those retaining nuts are impossible to see/get to
January 29th, 2017, 05:52 PM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,845
The general feedback is Just Dashes does excellent work. And they charge appropriately. The dash will look more plus/swollen than it does now, but it'll be soft and will stand up to use.
Keep an eye on the for sale and post a wanted ad. Good dash pads show up fairly regularly. It's particularly easy if you're willing to paint it to get your color.
Just make sure the seller bolts a plastic lower dash to the dash pad before shipping it. Shipping a bare dash pad, regardless of how well packaged, is just asking for a big crack in the middle.
Getting the dash assembly out is much easier after the 6th time.
Remove the seats, get some flashlights and a good deep socket (11/32nd, right?) The one tucked next to the steering column is the one I hate.
Keep an eye on the for sale and post a wanted ad. Good dash pads show up fairly regularly. It's particularly easy if you're willing to paint it to get your color.
Just make sure the seller bolts a plastic lower dash to the dash pad before shipping it. Shipping a bare dash pad, regardless of how well packaged, is just asking for a big crack in the middle.
Getting the dash assembly out is much easier after the 6th time.
Remove the seats, get some flashlights and a good deep socket (11/32nd, right?) The one tucked next to the steering column is the one I hate.
January 29th, 2017, 06:22 PM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 2,357
Hope these are all of them. Just be gentle.
Last edited by Gary M; January 29th, 2017 at 06:29 PM.
January 29th, 2017, 07:19 PM
#5
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,134
The last pic Gary shows (fastener is broken off) is typically NOT a attachment location with a nut. Due to the horrific lack of access (from under/behind the dash) the factory DID use a threaded stud in the dashpad (like the others) BUT I'm fairly sure there is an insert in the dash metal hole/receptacle.
The "insert" is a stamped metal thing that basically has barbs or fangs that grab the threads on the stud once it's pushed in and this keeps the dash from coming loose on that end.
It can be a struggle to get the pad loose from that fastener but folks are doing it all the time so be patient on that one.
At least this may save the OP some trouble if he thinks there's supposed to be a nut holding the stud on the D side end of the pad.
As far as replacing it....I'd find the best original pad you can and freshen it up with some vinyl/plastic paint/dye. You'll be many $ ahead VS. those places that re-cover the pads and you won't have problems I've read with things like the channel for the "chrome" dashbead molding being too thin to accept a new molding or the loss of detail lines that are in the original molded vinyl pad surfaces.
You'll also save HUNDREDS of $ going with a nice original pad.....$ you can spend on the rest of the interior if you are redoing other parts inside. Shipping cost alone (both ways) is not going to be pretty.
Edit: Who is "classic car plastics"??
The "insert" is a stamped metal thing that basically has barbs or fangs that grab the threads on the stud once it's pushed in and this keeps the dash from coming loose on that end.
It can be a struggle to get the pad loose from that fastener but folks are doing it all the time so be patient on that one.
At least this may save the OP some trouble if he thinks there's supposed to be a nut holding the stud on the D side end of the pad.
As far as replacing it....I'd find the best original pad you can and freshen it up with some vinyl/plastic paint/dye. You'll be many $ ahead VS. those places that re-cover the pads and you won't have problems I've read with things like the channel for the "chrome" dashbead molding being too thin to accept a new molding or the loss of detail lines that are in the original molded vinyl pad surfaces.
You'll also save HUNDREDS of $ going with a nice original pad.....$ you can spend on the rest of the interior if you are redoing other parts inside. Shipping cost alone (both ways) is not going to be pretty.
Edit: Who is "classic car plastics"??
Last edited by 70Post; January 29th, 2017 at 07:49 PM.
January 29th, 2017, 07:44 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: North Haven CT
Posts: 239
Getting the one for the dash pad, far left just inside of the dash vent was a bear. I ended up taking out the vent and the duct and was able to get in there. It was stuck and didn't want to crack the dash even though it wasn't a nut holding it. Thanks for the tip, I"ll keep my eyes open for a dash. Since mine is black it should be easy to match
January 30th, 2017, 06:41 AM
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 1,845
Gary, the attachment is identical 70-72, regardless of options. Well, except for where it's been broken by a previous owner. 
IIRC, there are:
2 nuts on the far right (passenger) side
2 nuts above the glove box
4 nuts along the bottom of the lower dash
2 bolts between the gauges going into the dash
1 pinch retainer by the driver's vent - no nut, but as noted may have to push from inside if it's gotten really stuck
Your dash is black? Man, jackpot. You can get any dashpad and slather on some black vinyl paint. I know Landau is the best match for plastics, probably the same for vinyl. That paint is pretty resilient with correct prep.
A plastic welding kit may also come in handy to repair tabs, especially the glove box door bumper tabs.
also, keep a plastic lower dash bolted into any dash pad that you are storing. I made the mistake of storing my really good pad without a dash, and it lost the slight curve in the top. Some time with a heater and bolting one back in got it back though.
IIRC, there are:
2 nuts on the far right (passenger) side
2 nuts above the glove box
4 nuts along the bottom of the lower dash
2 bolts between the gauges going into the dash
1 pinch retainer by the driver's vent - no nut, but as noted may have to push from inside if it's gotten really stuck
Your dash is black? Man, jackpot. You can get any dashpad and slather on some black vinyl paint. I know Landau is the best match for plastics, probably the same for vinyl. That paint is pretty resilient with correct prep.
A plastic welding kit may also come in handy to repair tabs, especially the glove box door bumper tabs.
also, keep a plastic lower dash bolted into any dash pad that you are storing. I made the mistake of storing my really good pad without a dash, and it lost the slight curve in the top. Some time with a heater and bolting one back in got it back though.
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