72' cutlass replacing fuel sending unit & fuel pump
October 10th, 2014, 05:54 AM
#2
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Fuel Pump: You may wish to replace the little paper gasket.
It's small and invisible, though, and you can probably reuse the old one and / or make do with a small bit of RTV sealant.
Fuel sender: It should come with a new gasket and sealing ring (nut).
You will want to replace the one, two, or three rubber hoses from the sender to the steel fuel lines (the hoses will be different sizes).
You may need to destroy the bolts that hold the tank straps to the body, so you may need new ones.
You may need new tank straps (or yours may be fine).
You may want to replace the rubber insulator between the tank and the body; if so, Patton Glade on this forum sells new ones.
You should also cap the other end of all of the fuel lines and hit each one with compressed air to confirm that they don't have any pinholes and check the top of the tank for pinholes while you're there.
It's also a good time to completely clean any sediment or sludge out of the tank.
- Eric
It's small and invisible, though, and you can probably reuse the old one and / or make do with a small bit of RTV sealant.
Fuel sender: It should come with a new gasket and sealing ring (nut).
You will want to replace the one, two, or three rubber hoses from the sender to the steel fuel lines (the hoses will be different sizes).
You may need to destroy the bolts that hold the tank straps to the body, so you may need new ones.
You may need new tank straps (or yours may be fine).
You may want to replace the rubber insulator between the tank and the body; if so, Patton Glade on this forum sells new ones.
You should also cap the other end of all of the fuel lines and hit each one with compressed air to confirm that they don't have any pinholes and check the top of the tank for pinholes while you're there.
It's also a good time to completely clean any sediment or sludge out of the tank.
- Eric
October 10th, 2014, 06:21 AM
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Eric hit on most,key issues but here are a few more.
1972 does not have an isolation pade on top of the tank but you can certainly order and install one if you wish. I did for mine.
Drain your tank before you attempt to do this drop.
Check your fuel pump to see if there is a return line. If there is, you need a sender with a return line as well.
There are a minimum of 4 rubber lines at the tank end that need to be replaced. 5 if you have a return. You'll also need new clamps. Lines are 5/16 and 1/4".
Disconnect the sender ground, and sender wire to the trunk. The wire to the trunk is tan colored, and the ground is black.
There is another rubber fuel line at the front of the fuel line run that also needs to be replaced. This one is often overlooked. It may be dry/brittle.
There,will be residual fuel in the line so be prepared for about 1/2 cup to drain out.
When you have the fuel pump off this is a great time to reach in and check the slack in the timing chain. Make sure the new pump goes in so the pump lever goes on top of the eccentric.
Most of the new style fuel,lines are designed for methanol or ethanol based fuel so you shouldn't have to worry about that.
Last - if your car was built at Freemont, Arlington or Feemont there's a good chance you'll find the cars build sheet on top of the tank.
PB Blaster is your friend here with rusty bolts.
1972 does not have an isolation pade on top of the tank but you can certainly order and install one if you wish. I did for mine.
Drain your tank before you attempt to do this drop.
Check your fuel pump to see if there is a return line. If there is, you need a sender with a return line as well.
There are a minimum of 4 rubber lines at the tank end that need to be replaced. 5 if you have a return. You'll also need new clamps. Lines are 5/16 and 1/4".
Disconnect the sender ground, and sender wire to the trunk. The wire to the trunk is tan colored, and the ground is black.
There is another rubber fuel line at the front of the fuel line run that also needs to be replaced. This one is often overlooked. It may be dry/brittle.
There,will be residual fuel in the line so be prepared for about 1/2 cup to drain out.
When you have the fuel pump off this is a great time to reach in and check the slack in the timing chain. Make sure the new pump goes in so the pump lever goes on top of the eccentric.
Most of the new style fuel,lines are designed for methanol or ethanol based fuel so you shouldn't have to worry about that.
Last - if your car was built at Freemont, Arlington or Feemont there's a good chance you'll find the cars build sheet on top of the tank.
PB Blaster is your friend here with rusty bolts.
Last edited by Allan R; October 10th, 2014 at 06:24 AM.
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