Hooker headers install question
#1
Hooker headers install question
Hello all. I just recently purchased a set of Hooker Headers for my 1971 Cutlass Holiday Hardtop. It has a 350, I dont know the exact year, but between 1977-1980. I have managed to get the manifolds down and getting ready to install the headers. I have no experience doing this before, so I was wondering if you could get me some info on how to install them.
Will the starter have to come of, do I need to get the steering linkage separated etc to get the headers to fit? It looks kinda tight.
Should they be installed from the top or do I try and slide them in from under the car?
Will the starter have to come of, do I need to get the steering linkage separated etc to get the headers to fit? It looks kinda tight.
Should they be installed from the top or do I try and slide them in from under the car?
#2
They need to be installed from underneath and it's a lot easier if you raise the front of the car as high as you can and support the frame on jack stands. The dipstick, oil filter, and possibly the starter need to be removed. You also may have to disconnect your transmission linkage. You may have to take the big bolt out of the engine mounts and raise the engine with a jack on each side to slide them in place.
#5
I just put hookers on my 350, the starter had to come off, along with the dipstick tube on the drivers side. I also popped the shift linkage off just for a little extra room to get in there not needed though. On the passenger side I popped off the oil filter, I also loosened the transmission lines, if I had the car higher I don't think I would have needed to loosen them but up on jack stands I just couldn't get by them. The cross member clearance was no problem I didn't have to lift the engine, looks like you are using the 3901's which I used I had plenty if room.
Last edited by Eric Anderson; March 17th, 2014 at 03:00 PM.
#6
Agree with all the other posters with regard to starter, dipstick, oil filter and also the shift linkage. Also, be aware that if your cutlass is an S model, there's a possibility that the headers may contact the cross member on the drivers side (I have yet to find a rational explanation...maybe someone else on here can help with that). I had to make a few modifications to mine in order to get enough clearance. An added suggestion is while you have the starter out you hay want to wrap it in heat resistant tape or maybe manufacture a heat shield for the starter. You'll see what I'm talking about when you get it back in. Good luck!
#7
Perfect! This is just the type of info I was looking to get! I’m really grateful for your help. I will do some more work asap and get beck here with the progress. The headers came with different lengths on the bolts. Do you know where the longer one goes?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#8
I use an engine hoist to raise the engine a bit 1 side at a time( take out the motor mount bolt on one side, raise a couple inches, install the header, replace the bolt, move on to next side), this helps so you don't have to install from underneath as that sucks big time.
#9
I used the longer ones on the ends with a washer where the flanges have a slot. Also on the drivers side where the power steering bracket bolts up I used the factory bolt with two washers to space the bracket out.
#10
NOOOOOOOO! Please, not another "headers won't fit" myth. There is absolutely NO mechanical difference in frame, crossmember, sheet metal, suspension, or engine location on the Cutlass S or Supreme or any other Olds A-body for a given year. The only reason why headers would contact the crossmember is because the rubber motor mount on that side has deteriorated and sagged.
#12
I just installed these same headers on my 72' 350...I will throw in that I replaced the engine mounts at the same time and did lift each side of the motor during the install. Since you have good access the motor mounts are never going to be easier to replace. Also removed the already mentioned items starter/dipstick/oil filter& mount.
Does anybody have a pic of how they routed their transmission cooler lines after the install? In order to get clearance I have them routed essentially under the oil filter which is a pain to get on and off. Is there a better way to route them?
My .02
Tim
Does anybody have a pic of how they routed their transmission cooler lines after the install? In order to get clearance I have them routed essentially under the oil filter which is a pain to get on and off. Is there a better way to route them?
My .02
Tim
#14
I managed to get the headers in place on the passenger side after unmount of the oilfilterhousing. Then it was no problem to get the headers in place. But it was not that simple to get the bolts in place, ill guess my hands are to big. I will give it another try as soon as possible. Two bolts are now holding the header in the right place.
I unmount the starter yesterday and try to put on the riverside header from underneath but it was still to tight. I will try by unmount the steering thing(don't know the name in english) Then i try again to put the riverside header in place. I really don't want to raise the engine
Many thanks guys, and excuse me for my poor english. I really grateful for your help.
I unmount the starter yesterday and try to put on the riverside header from underneath but it was still to tight. I will try by unmount the steering thing(don't know the name in english) Then i try again to put the riverside header in place. I really don't want to raise the engine
Many thanks guys, and excuse me for my poor english. I really grateful for your help.
#15
I unmount the starter yesterday and try to put on the riverside header from underneath but it was still to tight. I will try by unmount the steering thing(don't know the name in english) Then i try again to put the riverside header in place. I really don't want to raise the engine
Also, I have never been able to install headers without lifting the engine. This is no big deal and will really make your life easier. Remove the one bolt between the motor mount and the frame mount, then jack the motor with a floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan sump. Slide the header in, lower the motor slowly, start the header bolts, and reinstall the motor mount bolt and steering shaft.
#16
I removed the steering shaft and that helped a lot. I did remove the oil dipstick to. Then it was no problem to put the header in place. But i did face another problem. The plate where you attach the generator blocks the headers first mounting hole. I have to cut a piece of it so i can mount the header properly.
Thanks again for all your help
Thanks again for all your help
#18
NOOOOOO! Simply loosen the alternator bracket, move it out of the way, install the header, and bolt everything back together. That part of the bracket is important to stabilize the alternator and PS pump under belt tension.
#19
ok i understand that now. I did move the alternator. But then the bracket and the hole in the engingblock did not align. I cant figure out how it all of a sudden not align? When i tock off the old ones it was ok but now it has moved? Look at the picture.
#21
#24
#25
I havent loosen all the bolts yet, ill do that sometime today i hope.
Grinding a bit off was my guess too. I try loosen all the bolts on the bracket first.
Here is some better pictures of the bracket.
Grinding a bit off was my guess too. I try loosen all the bolts on the bracket first.
Here is some better pictures of the bracket.
#26
I know that on the early A-body's 64-67 the best to install the headers was as mentioned lift one side of the motor at a time. That said, if you using the stock GM starter hows the clearance between the starter and one of the header tubes? On my 67 455 you cannot barely get a sheet of paper between the too. In extreme Texas summer heat the solenoid gets heat soak when I shut the motor off. In addtion if the starter needs service I have to raise the engine, remove the header out of the way to get the starter out. When that time comes I will re-install a new mini starter.
#27
Well today i got the header in place on the driver side. But it is so tight that i had to use a hammer and force in to place. Now it is impossible to get the gasket between the header and engineblock... It seems like the only solution is to remove the bolt that holds the motor.
#28
Also, I have never been able to install headers without lifting the engine. This is no big deal and will really make your life easier. Remove the one bolt between the motor mount and the frame mount, then jack the motor with a floor jack and block of wood under the oil pan sump. Slide the header in, lower the motor slowly, start the header bolts, and reinstall the motor mount bolt and steering shaft.
#29
i know But i had to grind a bit of the bracket anyway. Otherwise the header wouldn't be able to slip into place. The thing is when i muscle the header into place the gasket was totally mashed between the block and header. Thats because there is no space between the frame and the header on the driverside. On the passangerside on the other hand there was no problem at all, just to set the header into place and mount it.
I have a question about the motor bolt mounting hole. Do i have to compleatly remove the bolt from the engine/chassi bracket? I was thinking maybe there are some room for adjustment in the holes?
I have a question about the motor bolt mounting hole. Do i have to compleatly remove the bolt from the engine/chassi bracket? I was thinking maybe there are some room for adjustment in the holes?
#30
The bolt must be removed to lift the engine. Put a wide piece of wood on a floor jack and lift under the oil pan once the bolt is removed. The wood will distribute the weight and not damage the pan.
#31
NOOOOOOOO! Please, not another "headers won't fit" myth. There is absolutely NO mechanical difference in frame, crossmember, sheet metal, suspension, or engine location on the Cutlass S or Supreme or any other Olds A-body for a given year. The only reason why headers would contact the crossmember is because the rubber motor mount on that side has deteriorated and sagged.
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