pcard

The two photos show the front lower mounting studs from the front for the passenger and driver side. The bolts have been torqued properly.
You can see that the passenger side extends down a bit further than the driver. Also, what the photos do not show, due to my lack of photography skills, is that the studs do not seat flush on the LCA, but rather the end of the stud contacts the side of the pocket on the bottom of the LCA as if the studs were too wide. There is about a 1/16" space between the shock stud and the LCA on the driver side and about 1/8" space on the passenger side.

My first question is if I should insert a spacer washer between the LCA and the shock stud to provide a firm seat. If I do not then I am worried the shock mounting bolt will have lateral play and become fatigued.

Secondly, you will notice that the front of the lower pocket on the LCA has a different profile passenger to driver side. The passenger side is sort of pushed up while the driver side is more level. Is this normal? The LCAs are not original but reproduction.







Thanks, Peter

Octania

What?
A Repro part that does not quite fit right?
Of course the shocks may be wider than OEM also

So, as I understand it, the crossways mounting rod at the bottom of the shock is a little too long, and hits on the curved part of the LCA?

We have MANY tools for removing metal...
Shorten the shocks' mounting rod.

oldcutlass

My lower shocks mount through the control arm with 2 bolts through the lower control arms with J nutplates. Your shocks have studs and attach with hex nuts?

pcard

Hi Eric - my shocks mount just like yours I think. The "studs" I refer to are the two "ears" on the bottom of the shock that the bolts go through, the crossways mounting rod. The J nuts, or "spring" nuts slide onto the LCA, and the bolts go up through the "ears" then through the LCA and into the nuts.
The space that concerns me is between the "ear" and the LCA, as Octania explains above.
I could grind down the ear as Octania suggests or put washers in between the ear and the LCA, but I think I must do something.

oldcutlass

I would go the spacer route, I'm **** so I would probably do the same thing on both right and left sides. With gas charged shocks I would also remove just 1 bolt at a time also, mine were a pain to get up there and get the bolts started.

MDchanic

I'd grind down the ears. Shouldn't take long. Deepen the slots if you need to, too.

They're not hard to get back into position against the gas pressure using a bottle jack.


Heh heh. He said, "nutplates."

- Eric

Allan R

I installed my shocks (exactly as you did with the GM clip nuts) on my OEM LCA's and there were no issues whatsoever. I didn't spend big money on shocks - I bought NAPA Sensitrac and they had no fitment issues whatsoever.

Those control arms might also be the reason you have a tilt on your car. They're not a matched set.

oldcutlass

I used my mini floor jack. I forgot about your height issue, Alan may be right.

pcard

I wondered about the aftermarket control arms too. Frustrating.

MDchanic

That's why I eschew "new" parts unless I have no other choice.

- Eric

pcard

I am going to see if I can retrieve my old control arms and fix them up ala Rob.

pcard

Just an update on what I did last week while up in Newport. I added a couple of stainless washers to bring the shock ears lower and now they clear the LCA beautifully.
Everything fits nice and snug and I was able to torque the bolts to spec.
Thanks guys.

oldcutlass

Well done.