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'73 Carb# 7043250 Electric Choke Conversion and Questions
I have a '73 Rochester Quadrajet 4-BBL Carburetor # 7043250 on a '71 Cutlass w/ Auto Transmission that I am trying to convert to an electric choke. So far I am having trouble tracking down a kit and I also have a few questions concerning the choke and carb itself.
I believe the carb has an "integral" choke. By referencing the Carb#, my search has only came up with one option and the link is pasted below:
Will any electric choke conversion for a GM 350 work as long as I do not have a divorced choke? Does is need to be year specific?
I am rebuilding this carb and I suspect it has been sitting in open air for a while, are there any other parts I should be looking for?( Accelerator pump, floats, choke pull off, etc)
Will any electric choke conversion for a GM 350 work as long as I do not have a divorced choke? Does is need to be year specific?
Yes and no. Be sure to remove the choke cover gasket so that the electric heating element has a good ground to the carb body.
Originally Posted by BrawnyMan
I am rebuilding this carb and I suspect it has been sitting in open air for a while, are there any other parts I should be looking for?( Accelerator pump, floats, choke pull off, etc)
Accelerator pump will come in the kit, just be sure it is ethanol compatible. You can check the float to determine if it leaks (is cracked or for whatever other reason doesn't float properly). Same for the choke pull-off - draw a vacuum on the port and ensure it actuates and holds vacuum.
First, every single Olds Qjet since the 1970 model year has an integral choke. Second, if you type 7043250 quadrajet rebuild kit into Google, you get a boatload of sources. Prices seen to be right about $28. Hint: get a new float at the same time.
Update: Even RockAuto has the kits - for about $16. Where exactly have you been looking???
I have the rebuild kit already, did not know if there was any other parts usually swapped out along with gaskets, seals, etc. Im looking for an electric choke conversion kit.
Last edited by BrawnyMan; December 17th, 2018 at 07:40 PM.
Any later model Q-jet from the 80`s has an electric choke. The housing is located futher toward the rear so the base will not work, however the housing and coil should interchange but you may have to swap the internal linkage. And if you have clearance inside, use the heat shield. I have found that in some cases, an uninformed person will get over zealous and over tighten the front two bolts. This causes the top cover to warp . Turn top upside down and check with straight edge. Flat file if warped. I`ll let Joe tell you about well plugs if you have that problem.
Any later model Q-jet from the 80`s has an electric choke. The housing is located futher toward the rear so the base will not work, however the housing and coil should interchange but you may have to swap the internal linkage. And if you have clearance inside, use the heat shield. I have found that in some cases, an uninformed person will get over zealous and over tighten the front two bolts. This causes the top cover to warp . Turn top upside down and check with straight edge. Flat file if warped. I`ll let Joe tell you about well plugs if you have that problem.
What technically are the well plugs? (which circle in pic below) and do you need to seal those? I have heard of some people using JB-weld to seal them so they do not leak into the manifold.
Any later model Q-jet from the 80`s has an electric choke.
None of the 1980s Oldsmobile Qjets used an electric choke - they were hot air choke to the end of production in 1990. Chevy did and I typically recommend getting the choke coil from a mid-80s Chevy pickup with a Qjet.
What technically are the well plugs? (which circle in pic below) and do you need to seal those? I have heard of some people using JB-weld to seal them so they do not leak into the manifold.
The bottom plugs are those circled on the 'bottom' of your picture. "During the machining process it was necessary to access several areas of the main casting from the bottom side. This mandated sealing them up afterwards." [Cliff Ruggles]
You can apply a soap & water mixture over the plugs, introduce high-pressure compressed air in through the front & rear jet openings in the fuel bowl to determine if any streams of bubbles or large leaks occur in the bottom plugs. The bottom plugs in your picture look like they've been sealed pretty well.
The Qjet well plugs get unfairly blamed for everything from hard starting to global warming. The reality is that only the stamped sheet metal cup plugs used on the 66-67 Qjets are prone to leaking. The spun-in aluminum plugs are not. Every Qjet I've ever rebuilt that had the epoxy "seal" applied during a prior rebuild has the epoxy peeling off due to exposure to fuel. Not sure how that is sealing anything. If you are convinced that your well plugs are leaking, prop the carb up over a piece of white paper, fill the bowl with fuel, and let is set overnight. If there are no stains or wetness on the paper in the morning, the plugs are NOT leaking.
As for the electric choke, I don't know why a "kit" is needed. I just get the choke coil from a mid-80s Qjet off of a full size Chevy pickup. Swap it out for the hot air coil, wire as I showed in the link provided above, and done.
December 17th, 2018, 10:46 AM
