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z bar help

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Old December 21st, 2017, 01:57 PM
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z bar help

Last night I began the task of removing the dead 350 & trans from my 64 Cutlass. I will be using the 4 speed on my 455 that I have built. I separated the trans and removed it from the bottom. My z bar bracket is welded onto the frame. How does the z bar come off? I think there is a bolt on the frame side of the z bar. Do I remove the bolt and then just pull the z bar off of the stud on the block or is there something I'm missing?


Also on the bell housing does the starter and dust shield have to be removed first before the bell housing will come off? I was thinking that they didn't. I removed the 6 bolts to the block but it is fighting to stay on.


And last question: Centerforce recommended an 11" clutch if it will fit. Since I haven't been able to get the bell housing off I don't know what size I have now. Would the bell housing limit the size and/or is it if the flywheel mounting will accept it?
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Old December 21st, 2017, 06:43 PM
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If your flywheel is drilled for 11 inch pressure plate it will work no problem, the frame bracket the Z bar mounts to is slotted so loosen the bolt/nut and pull the z bar up and out. Pull off starter 1st then dust cover for clutch can come off.
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Old December 21st, 2017, 06:47 PM
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Bell Crank Removal

The bell crank is bolted to the bracket that is welded to the frame. Here is a pic of mine while I was in process of installing headers. You can just barely see the bracket hiding behind the silver-colored brake line in the upper right of the photo. The bell crank frame mounting stud is retained within the end of the bell crank with a c-clip. The exposed threaded end is "shaped," in that opposing "sides" of the threaded shaft are shaved off so that there is an oval shape, when viewed "end-on." The flattened sides lower down into the frame bracket, then prevent the stud from rotating when tightening down (or loosening) the nut on the end.
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Old December 22nd, 2017, 02:02 PM
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Got the engine out last night. I was able to get the bell housing off then. I don't know anything about the history of the clutch on it so I figure it would be smart to replace it now. The flywheel is drilled for the 11" (yay.) Did find an extremely dense mouse house with the relatively recent remains of the last occupant wedged between the block and flywheel.


No exterior signs of why the engine failed. I'm guessing oil pump failure. Someday I'll take it apart out of curiosity and see if there are salvageable parts that may have been original to the 330. I know the water pump is a 64 330, hoping distributer and exhaust manifolds are as well.
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