Need a shop to help with '55 Starfire.
#1
Need a shop to help with '55 Starfire.
Need experienced help in my area with most everything with this '55 Starfire. Engine, transmission, brakes, powered devices such as top, windows, seats, etc. Nothing works as advertised. My father and I can't seem to get anywhere with it and I'm looking for nearby help. I live in Calhoun, Georgia.
If I have posted this in the wrong forum then please move or call it to my attention. Thank you.
If I have posted this in the wrong forum then please move or call it to my attention. Thank you.
#4
A shop. I am an otr truck driver and just don't have the time to address these issues. My Dad is a retired auto repair shop owner with tons of knowledge, but this car has him perplexed.
#8
First thing you need is an original print copy of the 1955 Oldsmobile factory shop manual. Not a CD-ROM or pdf file- they lose critical detail.
There are also airconditioning and HydraMatic supplements.
Next- contact the Dixie Olds Club in Georgia. They're concentrated in Atlanta and like most groups heavy on 68-72 A-body but there are some 50s owners in it.
https:/www.oldsmobileclub.org/members/group.aspx?id=190049
A membership in either Oldsmobile Club of America or National Antique Olds Club will help too. They both have 1955 model year advisors.
There are also airconditioning and HydraMatic supplements.
Next- contact the Dixie Olds Club in Georgia. They're concentrated in Atlanta and like most groups heavy on 68-72 A-body but there are some 50s owners in it.
https:/www.oldsmobileclub.org/members/group.aspx?id=190049
A membership in either Oldsmobile Club of America or National Antique Olds Club will help too. They both have 1955 model year advisors.
Last edited by rocketraider; July 26th, 2023 at 10:37 AM.
#9
First thing you need is an original print copy of the 1955 Oldsmobile factory shop manual. Not a CD-ROM or pdf file- they lose critical detail.
There are also airconditioning and HydraMatic supplements.
Next- contact the Dixie Olds Club in Georgia. They're concentrated in Atlanta and like most groups heavy on 68-72 A-body but there are some 50s owners in it.
https:/www.oldsmobileclub.org/members/group.aspx?id=190049
A membership in either Oldsmobile Club of America or National Antique Olds Club will help too. They both have 1955 model year advisors.
There are also airconditioning and HydraMatic supplements.
Next- contact the Dixie Olds Club in Georgia. They're concentrated in Atlanta and like most groups heavy on 68-72 A-body but there are some 50s owners in it.
https:/www.oldsmobileclub.org/members/group.aspx?id=190049
A membership in either Oldsmobile Club of America or National Antique Olds Club will help too. They both have 1955 model year advisors.
#11
Most of your issues are not that specialized and could be repaired by most shops with a good old time mechanic. Not knowing what does or doesn't work you might have to go to several shops to cover all your problems. Take that motor manual with you and let them know they can use it. Show them a Fusick catalog for stuff they need to know where to get. I know nothing about your local shops or area, I'm from the left coast, but ask around at local car shows, or clubs for good info on decent local shops. Tedd
#13
Are there any regular "cruise ins" in your area where car guys gather on a regular basis ? If so go to one and ask around. Those guys will know if there are any decent shops to work on vintage cars.
Also, edit your post and add your location in the title.
Also, edit your post and add your location in the title.
#14
Most of your issues are not that specialized and could be repaired by most shops with a good old time mechanic. Not knowing what does or doesn't work you might have to go to several shops to cover all your problems. Take that motor manual with you and let them know they can use it. Show them a Fusick catalog for stuff they need to know where to get. I know nothing about your local shops or area, I'm from the left coast, but ask around at local car shows, or clubs for good info on decent local shops. Tedd
#16
#17
Couldn't edit the title of the topic. My location is in my O.P.
#18
Nobody reads those. People post for sale ads thinking the same thing. Take the time people. I know it really hurts your thumb on a cell phone but... Post Where You Are. Don't assume that people are going to check your profile. That is not happening.
#19
I got the shop manual a few days ago. Honestly there wasn't anything on the convertible top motor or troubleshooting in general. It was primarily part rebuilding and installation. Not exactly what I need. I wish I'd never come across this thing.
#20
It ought to be in the body section of the shop book.
IDK if there was a separate Fisher Body convertible shop book or not but all five GM Divisions used the same top mechanism and hydraulics, so the info is out there somewhere.
IDK if there was a separate Fisher Body convertible shop book or not but all five GM Divisions used the same top mechanism and hydraulics, so the info is out there somewhere.
#21
#22
The CVT should be the only thing on a 55 that's still hydraulically operated. Windows and seat changed to electric that year.
Are any of them functional? Would help to know exactly what isn't working or performing right and what it's doing.
Oldsmobiles didn't usually get subjected to the electrical buggery and butchery other cars did but your Starfire is almost 70 years old. There's no telling what some yahoo owner or mechanic has done to it over those 70 years.
With a shop book, wiring diagram, basic troubleshooting skills and understanding of hydraulic systems you can get this stuff functional. Don't write the car off yet but don't turn it over to just anyone to repair it. Old car club connections are where you'll find people who can fix it.
Are any of them functional? Would help to know exactly what isn't working or performing right and what it's doing.
Oldsmobiles didn't usually get subjected to the electrical buggery and butchery other cars did but your Starfire is almost 70 years old. There's no telling what some yahoo owner or mechanic has done to it over those 70 years.
With a shop book, wiring diagram, basic troubleshooting skills and understanding of hydraulic systems you can get this stuff functional. Don't write the car off yet but don't turn it over to just anyone to repair it. Old car club connections are where you'll find people who can fix it.
#23
The CVT should be the only thing on a 55 that's still hydraulically operated. Windows and seat changed to electric that year.
Are any of them functional? Would help to know exactly what isn't working or performing right and what it's doing.
Oldsmobiles didn't usually get subjected to the electrical buggery and butchery other cars did but your Starfire is almost 70 years old. There's no telling what some yahoo owner or mechanic has done to it over those 70 years.
With a shop book, wiring diagram, basic troubleshooting skills and understanding of hydraulic systems you can get this stuff functional. Don't write the car off yet but don't turn it over to just anyone to repair it. Old car club connections are where you'll find people who can fix it.
Are any of them functional? Would help to know exactly what isn't working or performing right and what it's doing.
Oldsmobiles didn't usually get subjected to the electrical buggery and butchery other cars did but your Starfire is almost 70 years old. There's no telling what some yahoo owner or mechanic has done to it over those 70 years.
With a shop book, wiring diagram, basic troubleshooting skills and understanding of hydraulic systems you can get this stuff functional. Don't write the car off yet but don't turn it over to just anyone to repair it. Old car club connections are where you'll find people who can fix it.
#24
Double check the firing order. 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2. Distributor rotation on these is counter clockwise. You would be surprised at how many people try to use the later 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order and order the plug wires clockwise.
Past that, before you pull the heads, pull the rocker covers and observe the rocker arms and shafts at cranking speed. If a valve is sticking, pull the rocker shaft, spray penetrating oil around that valve stem and guide and whack the stem and spring a couple times.
From an old MOTOR's general service manual:
Dwell 26°-33°, timing 5° BTDC at 850rpm with vacuum advance disconnected. Hot idle speed 400RPM in D.
Timing mark.
Same info should be in your 55 CSM. Mine is packed up and the MOTOR's was handy.
Past that, before you pull the heads, pull the rocker covers and observe the rocker arms and shafts at cranking speed. If a valve is sticking, pull the rocker shaft, spray penetrating oil around that valve stem and guide and whack the stem and spring a couple times.
From an old MOTOR's general service manual:
Dwell 26°-33°, timing 5° BTDC at 850rpm with vacuum advance disconnected. Hot idle speed 400RPM in D.
Timing mark.
Same info should be in your 55 CSM. Mine is packed up and the MOTOR's was handy.
Last edited by rocketraider; August 5th, 2023 at 05:21 PM.
#25
There is a supplement for the top, I have one somewhere, but to me, it didn't open up much that wasn't pretty obvious. If you are having trouble raising the top when the pump won't run just remove the lift cylinders (top bolts) and manually pull it up. It's tough and usually takes two people especially if the top hasn't gone up in a few years, lube all the folding joints first... Lost in the fifties.. Tedd
#27
Well, to update you guys, we've triple checked the firing order and have that correct. We changed out the plugs, plug wires and other tune-up parts. I purchased the best parts on the market and it's getting plenty of fire. Dad next found an issue with the carb and fixed that. Dad then did a compression check on all the cylinders and found that 6 and 7 have very low compression, about 30 and 60 PSI at idle. So we've pulled the heads off and hopefully I can get them to the machine shop in the next town (Rome, Ga) tomorrow morning. I need to purchase a complete gasket set, checked with RockAuto, who does not have it at the moment. But I should find one without an issue.
#28
Fusick should have a gasket set, always did in the past, but that shouldn't be a problem as those are pretty common parts. Hydro-E-Elictric will have any parts for the top parts, motors or cylinders hoses etc. After a while you will find places to get parts cheaper but at first some of the specialty houses will save you lots of time finding stuff and usually know more about vintage part problems.
I don't know if you have seen an approximate value on that car but in bad conduction #4 it would be somewhere around $15- $20 thousand. You might want to look into it, could surprise you...Tedd
I don't know if you have seen an approximate value on that car but in bad conduction #4 it would be somewhere around $15- $20 thousand. You might want to look into it, could surprise you...Tedd
#29
Hydro-E- Electric co, should have any part you might need for the top motors, cylinders, hoses etc. Usually specialty houses are a little more expensive but when you are just starting in the hobby their expertise in these parts are well worth the extra price.
I don't know if you have ever had even a rough idea of the value of a Stare fire but a #4 car is somewhere around $15000 to $20000, it might surprise you... Lost in the fifties ...Tedd
I don't know if you have ever had even a rough idea of the value of a Stare fire but a #4 car is somewhere around $15000 to $20000, it might surprise you... Lost in the fifties ...Tedd
#31
There is a supplement for the top, I have one somewhere, but to me, it didn't open up much that wasn't pretty obvious. If you are having trouble raising the top when the pump won't run just remove the lift cylinders (top bolts) and manually pull it up. It's tough and usually takes two people especially if the top hasn't gone up in a few years, lube all the folding joints first... Lost in the fifties.. Tedd
#32
Fusick should have a gasket set, always did in the past, but that shouldn't be a problem as those are pretty common parts. Hydro-E-Elictric will have any parts for the top parts, motors or cylinders hoses etc. After a while you will find places to get parts cheaper but at first some of the specialty houses will save you lots of time finding stuff and usually know more about vintage part problems.
I don't know if you have seen an approximate value on that car but in bad conduction #4 it would be somewhere around $15- $20 thousand. You might want to look into it, could surprise you...Tedd
I don't know if you have seen an approximate value on that car but in bad conduction #4 it would be somewhere around $15- $20 thousand. You might want to look into it, could surprise you...Tedd
Like I have written, very little works, no power to the top, windows, seats or locks. No brakes. Engine running on 6 cylinders. Auto trans only shifts to low gear and reverse. A little rust, but no rust was suppose to be apparent on the car. Not what I paid for. Another thing that is frustrating is the past owner (deceased) was suppose to be one of the top auto enthusiasts in his region of Canada, and a top notch Oldsmobile guy. He owned a hot rod shop in Winnipeg called 'Softy's'. But his so-called 'pride and joy' is an absolute mess, when compared to how it was touted. Oh, it's far from worthless, certainly is worth the #4 condition of the car, which is noteworthy.
We will have the heads back and the engine back together soon. It's not a full-on engine rebuild, just a valve job. Hopefully there won't be any complications and it will start to run properly. Then we can try to look at the other issues.
Oh, one of the exhaust manifolds has a crack, we are going to try repair it. But may end up coming back to here, shopping for a replacement.
Last edited by Rickey1964; August 25th, 2023 at 07:50 AM.
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