Master cylinder for '68 442 - questions
#1
Master cylinder for '68 442 - questions
I have 3 questions, regarding the correct master cylinder for a '68 442.
My car is a factory front disk/rear drum power brake vehicle. The current master cylinder on my car has two wire clips that seal the top of the master cylinder to the body rather than one long wire clip.
1) I would like to keep the car "stock" and am wondering if the master sold by Inline Tube (MotorCityMuscleCar on E-Bay) is the correct part? Or, if someone has another source that is correct for a new master cylinder?
2) How do I tell if I have the Moiraine or Bendix unit? The shop manual seems to indicate the 442's like mine would be Moiraine (if I am reading the text correctly)?
3) Is there a method to hold the metering valve open when bleeding the front disk brakes without using the GM tool listed in the shop manual, e.g. with a C-clamp or pliers/vice grips?
Thank in advance for any advice or guidance.
Jim
My car is a factory front disk/rear drum power brake vehicle. The current master cylinder on my car has two wire clips that seal the top of the master cylinder to the body rather than one long wire clip.
1) I would like to keep the car "stock" and am wondering if the master sold by Inline Tube (MotorCityMuscleCar on E-Bay) is the correct part? Or, if someone has another source that is correct for a new master cylinder?
2) How do I tell if I have the Moiraine or Bendix unit? The shop manual seems to indicate the 442's like mine would be Moiraine (if I am reading the text correctly)?
3) Is there a method to hold the metering valve open when bleeding the front disk brakes without using the GM tool listed in the shop manual, e.g. with a C-clamp or pliers/vice grips?
Thank in advance for any advice or guidance.
Jim
#3
The correct M/C is an oval Morraine unit with two bail wires and two bleeder screws above the fluid outlets...I haven't had a problem bleeding the front discs...same as doing the drums
#4
I bent up a clip out of some scrap steel for the hold-off valve up by the MC on my '68 goat.
My '71 Vista has the combination valve on the frame and I use a C clamp when I bleed those. The button when pressed allows the fluid to flow at a 1-1 ratio when bleeding.
You may not have had any problems bleeding them without doing the button yet, but the farmer's horse never died before it did either.
I've seen plenty of guys on the forums that have had problems trying to get their discs becuse they didn't have that button pressed, also have personal experience.
My '71 Vista has the combination valve on the frame and I use a C clamp when I bleed those. The button when pressed allows the fluid to flow at a 1-1 ratio when bleeding.
You may not have had any problems bleeding them without doing the button yet, but the farmer's horse never died before it did either.
I've seen plenty of guys on the forums that have had problems trying to get their discs becuse they didn't have that button pressed, also have personal experience.
#5
I bent up a clip out of some scrap steel for the hold-off valve up by the MC on my '68 goat.
My '71 Vista has the combination valve on the frame and I use a C clamp when I bleed those. The button when pressed allows the fluid to flow at a 1-1 ratio when bleeding.
You may not have had any problems bleeding them without doing the button yet, but the farmer's horse never died before it did either.
I've seen plenty of guys on the forums that have had problems trying to get their discs becuse they didn't have that button pressed, also have personal experience.
My '71 Vista has the combination valve on the frame and I use a C clamp when I bleed those. The button when pressed allows the fluid to flow at a 1-1 ratio when bleeding.
You may not have had any problems bleeding them without doing the button yet, but the farmer's horse never died before it did either.
I've seen plenty of guys on the forums that have had problems trying to get their discs becuse they didn't have that button pressed, also have personal experience.
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