Crank verification
#3
Ok thank you! I feel better now about buying one. I posted a pic somewhere of one online for sale but not sure if it's correct? It just says olds v8 no specifics. Its only like 40 bucks so I'm hoping it's the right one.
#4
Ok now about the headers, they are hooker comp headers I believe shorts, an I correct in thinking I need the tranny bolted up before modifying the one on the drivers side find it? The passenger side one we got in with little trouble but the drivers side appears to be hitting the proportioning valve and it's probably too late cuz father in law already hear it and pounded the cheap out of it to the point it's half the diameter it was on that tube. In sure it can be cut out and new pope welded in but I'm thinking trans needs to be attached so we know exactly where it will be sitting ?
#5
Pounding that exhaust tube isn't the end of the world, but maybe you should have moved the proportioning valve...just a little to the top of the frame. That is part of using headers in the oldsmobile world, sometimes you have to ding it or move it. Or do some more internet searching first.
At this point, run it. Dont' try to remove that tube or weld it..or what ever.
The transmission should have no effect on the header tubes with two exceptions. The Shift Linkage/floor shifter bracket at the valve body, or the back drive linkage near the firewall .
At this point, run it. Dont' try to remove that tube or weld it..or what ever.
The transmission should have no effect on the header tubes with two exceptions. The Shift Linkage/floor shifter bracket at the valve body, or the back drive linkage near the firewall .
#6
Ok. It we will run it if we canngetbit all in there. It appears that once the trans is attached the back of the motor will "squat" a bit possibly changing where the headers will ultimately possibly interfere is what in was going by I guess.
#7
Also, supposedly this motor, well crank anyway, has been balanced. Will that make a difference as far as what flexplate I need? The one I'm going to order does have a weight on it so I'm just trying to save another major headache before it comes I guess lol!
#8
Depends on how it was balanced. If it was balanced to stock specs, a stock replacement flexplate will be fine. If it was balanced WITH the flexplate and balancer, you're kinda screwed without that flexplate.
#9
Well it came with a new harmonic balancer that looked like it was never installed, as well as a new flexplate,which we now know could not ever work, so I'm inclined to believe it was never balanced. Is that possible? And so if that's the case will this flexplate I'm ordering work even lol. I'm so lost. Never buy something that has no info with it ugh.
#10
Well it came with a new harmonic balancer that looked like it was never installed, as well as a new flexplate,which we now know could not ever work, so I'm inclined to believe it was never balanced. Is that possible? And so if that's the case will this flexplate I'm ordering work even lol. I'm so lost. Never buy something that has no info with it ugh.
#11
Ok So if I put it all together and it isn't right, will it just vibrate? Will it ruin anything? And then if it's not right what do I need to do to make it right? Disassemble while motor and take to machine shop? I guess I'm at no turning back now stage. I guess I order a flexplate, put it in and cross my fingers.
#12
Yes
Only if you continue to run it that way for a length of time (like hours)
Unfortunately, yes.
That's about your only realistic choice. Do you have access to an engine run stand? It would be nice to be able to run the engine before dropping it in the car.
Will it ruin anything?
And then if it's not right what do I need to do to make it right? Disassemble while motor and take to machine shop?
I guess I'm at no turning back now stage. I guess I order a flexplate, put it in and cross my fingers.
#13
OK
OK
UGH, OK
AND NO. I have asked around and nobody I know has any access to one. Also, thinking all I needed to do was bolt a flexplate on and go, I already put motor in and have pretty much everything other than one header and the tranny in and hooked up lol.
OK
UGH, OK
AND NO. I have asked around and nobody I know has any access to one. Also, thinking all I needed to do was bolt a flexplate on and go, I already put motor in and have pretty much everything other than one header and the tranny in and hooked up lol.
#15
The holes are not symmetric and will only align one way. The torque spec on the flexplate bolts is 60 ft-lbs. Use a star pattern, like on wheel lug nuts.
#18
To the best of my knowledge that references the casting box design the block was cast in. Say, a different version than the F1. Probably just a minor change.
You have a year code stamped below the #1 cyln. with vin derivative. The month and day code is near the distributor hole. You'll see probably 3 numbers, with what looks like screw heads, but cast into the block it self.
If you want to post those we'll sure decipher them.
You have a year code stamped below the #1 cyln. with vin derivative. The month and day code is near the distributor hole. You'll see probably 3 numbers, with what looks like screw heads, but cast into the block it self.
If you want to post those we'll sure decipher them.
#22
One more thing, the new flexplate came with a weight inn the box but not bolted on. So I need the weight at all? If so does it matter where I put it? There are 2 places it can go. Trying to get this in tonight. Thanks.
#27
If you can't find a new one, create a parts wanted ad and I'm sure someone will come up with a good used one that will work for you. I've got some extras but due to my work schedule I couldn't get to it for a couple days. You could also add your location to the parts wanted ad, who knows, someone close to you might have what you need.
John
John
#29
I can Damn near get the holes to line up if I put it on "backwards" meaning weight side towards block. But every motor I've ever seen ,which doesn't mean much lol, had the weighted side out towards trans.
#31
I have new one given to me with the motor, and it is identical to the one off the old 350. We ordered one from oldsrocketparts that says specifically for early pattern 330 400 425 and it has a whole bunch of holes and I can only seem to get them all 6 to line up if I turn it inside out or like the side the weight would bolt to in towards the block,which to me seems wrong.
This doesnt give much info but wondering if this will work on the 425 crank?
This doesnt give much info but wondering if this will work on the 425 crank?
#35
OK, I didn't trust myself so I just went out and counted one. 166 is correct. Balance weight goes towards the trans. I'm still nervous about the fact that the flexplates in the photos seem to have multiple bolt patterns (one size fits none, apparently).
#37
I just heard back from oldsrocketparts and I explained what my issue was and their response was "you can't put it on backwards,the way the holes line up is the way it goes on" lol. I guess I'll just try to find a used original here locally and if not I'll buy the one from the guy on here. Just so completely frustrated.
#38
I just heard back from oldsrocketparts and I explained what my issue was and their response was "you can't put it on backwards,the way the holes line up is the way it goes on" lol. I guess I'll just try to find a used original here locally and if not I'll buy the one from the guy on here. Just so completely frustrated.
#39
No I didn't, however it appears that the weight will only bolt up to one side as it uses v tapered headed screws with corresponding holes, if I remember correctly. I'll have to look for sure when I get home.
#40
My point is that a non-factory flexplate may have been made such that the balance weight should be on the block side, not the trans side. I can only speak with certainty on how factory parts were made.