costpenn

Have a hell of a squeaking noise coming from my left convertible top latch as I'm going down the road (with the top up) Is it possible to remove the latch assemblies without removing the top material itself? I cant see (with the top up) how it is held in place. This is perhaps the ONLY part on my #@!#@ 72 442 I have not restored (the top guy was supposed to replace the J hooks and the chrome yoke thing when he was replacing the top, but he "forgot") and that noise is driving me crazy.

Thanks

Octania

Pretty sure they unbolt easily, yes.

Octania

Pretty sure they unbolt easily, yes.

btw did you know that if you leave your top down for a couple years, then it will no longer stretch far enough to close and you get to drive home in the downpour holding the thing down as best you can?

So I hear...

Greg Rogers

Yep you can remove them.

costpenn

Is there a thread or tips anywhere on how to do it? I really don't want to mess up the top.

69442C

Joe,
Those latches will be tough to remove with the top material in place. The bolts come down from the top and with the top fabric and baffle strip in place over those latches, it may require that the top fabric be removed. I tried to put a socket on the bolts for the 69 conv in my garage and I couldn't do it, even with the top partially open so the fabric was relaxed. The front header bow adjustment is also made with these latch bolts so if you loosen them the front bow can and likely will move. You would need to mark it to know where it was. These latches are super easy to remove without the farbric in place but not so once the top is done. I know that's not what you wanted to hear.

Brian

costpenn

You're right Brian, not the answer I wanted to hear, but from you it's one I know to be correct. I jacked with the J hooks last night and was able to quiet it down a bit, but it's still not right.

Joe

69442C

Joe, I had another thought. Did you replace the weatherstrip on the bottom of the front bow? This weatherstrip will seal the underside of the top bow against the top of the windshield frame. I'm wondering if your weatherstrip may be worn or compressed and is causing a metal to metal issue which is creating the noise. Also, I believe you can change the yoke and chrome retainers with the latches in place but it will be a little harder to do. There is just a roll pin that is removed to get it apart. Pay attention to the spring inside the chrome yoke retainer so you get it together correctly.

Brian

Greg Rogers

Geez I am pretty sure I took mine out a year ago or so. I tried to tighten it up because it would go over center. I need to replace them so I will revisit them soon. But it seems like I removed the right one without taking the fabric off using a open end wrench. I think it was doable but not real easy- especially putting back together.

texxas

Joe, Didn't I read that you used Ray's Trim on Plano Road? If you did and they had agreed to do the latches but "forgot", call and talk to Henry or Kevin. They are great guys and I'm sure they would want you to be happy with your top and would fix them.
They did my top about 2 years ago. I set it all up with Henry ahead of time to bring it in in 2 weeks. That gave me time to completely disassemble, clean and paint my top frame and replace both top latches and front header bow. When I brought the car at the prearranged time. Henry wasn't there and the guys who were knew nothing about me bringing it in. I explained all I had previously explained to Henry and left the car. About a week later they called saying the car was ready. I went in and wasn't happy with the job. They were supposed to make the final adjustments on the front header bow and install the top and pads as the factory would have done it. The adjustments weren't done before the top was installed and it had a gap at the front because the bow header strip was left off. Also the top well liner wasn't sandwiched in between the top and rear tack strips but held on with trim screws drilled into the face of the rear strips. I explained my displeasure and left the car without paying. After a few days Henry called me. He told me he had fallen off a ladder and broken a bunch of ribs on one side. He was very apologetic and explained he had hired a guy from another shop to help out until he had recovered sufficiently to return to work. He also explained he had fired the same guy for all the work that was having to be redone. He asked if I could wait a couple of weeks until he was better and he would redo my top himself. When Henry returned to work he almost completely removed the top and started over, addressing every one of my concerns. I went by the shop almost everyday after work (only a 1 1/2 mile from the old house) while it was being redone. I was greeted with a smile and a beer and given help and tips on other issues I might have when reinstalling my interior. My top still looks great after two plus years. I had them do a couple of SUV headliners, Jeep front buckets and I'm about to have them do a panel repair on a leather seat from my 94 25th Anniversary Trans Am. They are usually recommended by NTOC members as I'm sure you know and I have heard them proudly mention this to other customers. Make them aware of your unhappiness and I'm sure they will get it taken care of for you.

Greg Rogers

Don't know if you have already resolved your problem yet, but I did go back and replaced my latches on the car without removing the top-took 1/2 and 5/8 open end wrenches A little tight but doable.

costpenn

Thanks for the tip Greg.