Can't take the heat!
#41
As my car didn't have a factory 4 core, I will need to get new saddles and a new top plate? and what about the shroud? is it different? And pardon the stupid question is there a repo shroud?
apparently there is only 2 left now.
#42
Thank You Sir!
Joe as Always Thank you, another stupid question, would it be worth finding an adapter and adding engine oil cooling through the tranny cooler in the Radiator, just thinking out loud?
#43
I don't know if the trans cooler can support sufficient flow rate for engine oil, which is more viscous than ATF. If you're worried about that, I'd just get an external cooler.
#46
See definition of "WharehouseCloseout"
Their site says it won't matter if the cooling lines are not used because they will not affect the operation with a manual.
The listing shows alternate part numbers may be sent that will work on your application so I hope that doesn't translate into "plastic tanks". Will see when I receive the part. Most likely will be metal though.
The listing shows alternate part numbers may be sent that will work on your application so I hope that doesn't translate into "plastic tanks". Will see when I receive the part. Most likely will be metal though.
#48
wow, can't get a human on the phone, that's helpful. I need to know if it will work with factory a/c and auto trans, does anyone have the part number? There's several listed, none at that price
#49
Go to rockauto.com, click on Part Number Search, and type in that number. Just came up for me at $59.
#52
Are you talking about RockAuto.com? Click on Oldsmobile, scroll down to 1971, select 442, select 455 (don't get me started that they also list a 350...), select Cooling, select Radiator.
#61
I wouldn't have any problem with that, except that I'll be out of town until late Sat. I've got a last minute trip to L.A. that just got scheduled. Somehow these meetings always manage to miss the Pomona or Long Beach swap meet weekends...
#62
No worries, thanks Joe. Looks like it may be here here Friday anyway according to the FedEx tracking.
I'm going to go ahead and install a new fan clutch and high flow thermostat while I'm at it. Since I don't trust my Chilton's manual and don't have the shop manual yet, do you guys know what temp the thermostat should be? I'm thinking it should be 180 but see there are 165's and 195's available also. I want to use the same temp that would have come from the factory.
The fan clutch, should that be a thermal fan clutch right? I also see on OPGI that there are 7 blade fans that are 17.5 inches in diameter, and 6 blade "fan clutch fan blades" that are 18 inches in diameter. I believe I have the latter, is that the correct fan?
I also was wondering what the correct backspacing is between the fan and the radiator. My engine isn't the factory motor so I was just wondering if it was set up correctly.
Thanks guys
I'm going to go ahead and install a new fan clutch and high flow thermostat while I'm at it. Since I don't trust my Chilton's manual and don't have the shop manual yet, do you guys know what temp the thermostat should be? I'm thinking it should be 180 but see there are 165's and 195's available also. I want to use the same temp that would have come from the factory.
The fan clutch, should that be a thermal fan clutch right? I also see on OPGI that there are 7 blade fans that are 17.5 inches in diameter, and 6 blade "fan clutch fan blades" that are 18 inches in diameter. I believe I have the latter, is that the correct fan?
I also was wondering what the correct backspacing is between the fan and the radiator. My engine isn't the factory motor so I was just wondering if it was set up correctly.
Thanks guys
#63
The fan clutch, should that be a thermal fan clutch right? I also see on OPGI that there are 7 blade fans that are 17.5 inches in diameter, and 6 blade "fan clutch fan blades" that are 18 inches in diameter. I believe I have the latter, is that the correct fan?
I also was wondering what the correct backspacing is between the fan and the radiator. My engine isn't the factory motor so I was just wondering if it was set up correctly.
Thanks guys
I also was wondering what the correct backspacing is between the fan and the radiator. My engine isn't the factory motor so I was just wondering if it was set up correctly.
Thanks guys
#64
Heater hose fitting?
I posted this in the other thread, But how are you going to deal with the heater hose outlet ( the extra one on Radiator) Joe mentioned it might be worth having it cut off and plugged or capped? is this something that cabn be accomplished with a copper cap from a plumbing supply and some plumbing solder ( silver type) or would this have to be done at the ( A) rad shop?
Joe mentioned something about the plug having a limited lifetime?
Joe mentioned something about the plug having a limited lifetime?
#66
Every time I've used one of those cheap-@$$ rubber caps, it looks like this after six months or less:
Coolant leakage starts shortly after that.
I did just find these silicone caps, at $10 each. Probably worth it. Yes, they come in black.
Coolant leakage starts shortly after that.
I did just find these silicone caps, at $10 each. Probably worth it. Yes, they come in black.
#67
Thank you joe, do you think I could just solder a plumbing cap on there? I liked your idea of having it cut off and plugged, but I would think a sweated copper cap would be a good fix.
#68
Depends on the diameter of the hose barb. Keep in mind that it's a hose barb, not a standard copper pipe size. Also, can you solder that cap on without overheating the solder holding the barb to the tank?
#69
Joe, I was thinking of the heat near the tank connection, perhaps a heat sink? yes if you can find the right size cap as well, as you said in the other it might be worth taking the entire tube off and just having the hole plugged at the tank all together? I will look at it when the radiator arrives. what is the worse that could happen? LOL..
#71
#75
If you don't care about absolutely correct appearance, you can also just flatten the stock brackets. I've done this on prior cars that I owned. I typically flatten only the leg towards the motor on each of the brackets. If you do this carefully, it doesn't look like a total hack. You could also do this for now and install the correct saddles later (like over the winter) if you wanted to.
#76
For capping the Chevy heater hose barb, would one of these work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/RestoParts/759/CH24880/10002/-1
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...ing-bypass-cap
http://www.jegs.com/i/RestoParts/759/CH24880/10002/-1
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...ing-bypass-cap
#78
#79
For capping the Chevy heater hose barb, would one of these work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/RestoParts/759/CH24880/10002/-1
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...ing-bypass-cap
http://www.jegs.com/i/RestoParts/759/CH24880/10002/-1
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...ing-bypass-cap
#80
For capping the Chevy heater hose barb, would one of these work?
http://www.jegs.com/i/RestoParts/759/CH24880/10002/-1
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...ing-bypass-cap
http://www.jegs.com/i/RestoParts/759/CH24880/10002/-1
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...ing-bypass-cap