A-Arm Shaft and stuff
#1
A-Arm Shaft and stuff
I am going to do a complete overhaul of my 442's front end. I am in need of some help on some details
1) I am going to replace the bushings on the upper control arm's A-Arm shaft, but I am not sure if I should replace the shaft itself. How stressed is such a thing? And what e-retailer sells exact OEM replacements?
2) Regarding the control arms themselves - should I paint them? I would like to bring my car up to a concourse show level over time and I am not certain if painting them is correct. If I did paint them would it be appropriate to use GM Black? What about those clear paints that let the metal show through, but provide protection?
3) Do the front end springs have insulators? I see some sites sell front-end insulators, but some say they were never stock? Anyone know for sure?
4) Should I get new shims or re-use old ones? It is hard to believe they wear out - any advice?
1) I am going to replace the bushings on the upper control arm's A-Arm shaft, but I am not sure if I should replace the shaft itself. How stressed is such a thing? And what e-retailer sells exact OEM replacements?
2) Regarding the control arms themselves - should I paint them? I would like to bring my car up to a concourse show level over time and I am not certain if painting them is correct. If I did paint them would it be appropriate to use GM Black? What about those clear paints that let the metal show through, but provide protection?
3) Do the front end springs have insulators? I see some sites sell front-end insulators, but some say they were never stock? Anyone know for sure?
4) Should I get new shims or re-use old ones? It is hard to believe they wear out - any advice?
#2
The cross shafts are pretty thick, I've never heard of one breaking. The bolts through the center on the other hand, can stress and break over time.
I had insulators in the front of my 85, but that's apples to oranges. They won't hurt anything if you run them.
I'd keep the stock shims. I glued all of mine together with body sealer before I removed them so I wouldn't lose any. LOL.
I had insulators in the front of my 85, but that's apples to oranges. They won't hurt anything if you run them.
I'd keep the stock shims. I glued all of mine together with body sealer before I removed them so I wouldn't lose any. LOL.
#3
Shafts don't typically wear out. If you're going to replace them, consider these.
http://www.globalwest.net/1964-72_Ch...nd_shafts..htm
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50052+2052019
They allow more positive caster (Straight line stability) while allowing a proper camber adjustment.
Remember upper shaft studs in frame do not turn, they are splined in the holes so they don't turn. If you need to remove, knock them straight out.
Arms should be satin/ semi gloss (GM) black. Use clear on new, natural finish steering linkage & similar so they stay looking proper & won't get rusty down the line.
No insulators on front springs but be sure they (springs) are properly oriented when installing.
Shims are usually fine to reuse as long as they aren't beat up, crushed or torn. Ask shop to use new ones when aligning, if they have new ones.
http://www.globalwest.net/1964-72_Ch...nd_shafts..htm
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50052+2052019
They allow more positive caster (Straight line stability) while allowing a proper camber adjustment.
Remember upper shaft studs in frame do not turn, they are splined in the holes so they don't turn. If you need to remove, knock them straight out.
Arms should be satin/ semi gloss (GM) black. Use clear on new, natural finish steering linkage & similar so they stay looking proper & won't get rusty down the line.
No insulators on front springs but be sure they (springs) are properly oriented when installing.
Shims are usually fine to reuse as long as they aren't beat up, crushed or torn. Ask shop to use new ones when aligning, if they have new ones.
Last edited by bccan; May 9th, 2010 at 05:19 PM.
#4
as far as paint goes. i would paint them the same color as the core support is. some were painted and others were not. i had a 72 w-30 that i sold in 1999 that had 16,000 original miles. it had no paint on the a arms originally. i also had a nos set that was painted. if you drive the car i would definitely paint them.
#5
Over time that big old hunk of cast iron filling up that engine bay will cause the front cross member to sag. Moog K5250 allows extra camber adjustment. there's a real good chance you'll need every bit of the extra adjustment. the front end will need an alignment
#6
They retain the stock apperance onced installed (same hardware, same cast iron apperance, same shape of original part).
#7
before Moog started marketing the Problem Solver offset shafts the old timer alignment guys would chain down each end of the cross member on the align rack, with a big bottle jack in the center of the cross member bend it back into spec. had it done to several GM big blocks. the stiffer the springs and shocks the quicker the sag
#8
The cross shafts are pretty thick, I've never heard of one breaking. The bolts through the center on the other hand, can stress and break over time.
I'd keep the stock shims. I glued all of mine together with body sealer before I removed them so I wouldn't lose any. LOL.
I'd keep the stock shims. I glued all of mine together with body sealer before I removed them so I wouldn't lose any. LOL.
See here for details:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post162138
Gluing them not a bad idea. Do not tape them together with lectrical tape like some bonehead did with mine years ago. They started to 'ooze out' under pressure.
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