350 Headers
#2
There are many folks on our site who run headers on their Cutlass. I've heard the Dynomax headers fit fine and generally run pretty cheap. IMHO, you would be better off spending a bit more and getting a set of ceramic coated headers that wouldn't bake after the first 10 minutes; then again, I don't have headers on my 71 98... yet.
#3
Thanks. Kinda of a stock man, but I have had a hankering for that sound. Probably going to turn into a major project though. Some of my manifold bolts are going nowhere.
Do the headers (Dynomax) install from above or below. Does the motor need to be jacked up etc.
Thanks.
Do the headers (Dynomax) install from above or below. Does the motor need to be jacked up etc.
Thanks.
#5
The driver's side requires the starter to be removed and usually it's a lot easier if you remove the steering shaft as well. You will likely need to raise this side of the motor. In both cases, the car must be several feet in the air and the headers go in from the bottom.
#6
I have Ceramic Coated Hooker Competition Headers on my 72'. They look great and made a big difference in easing flow restriction. I could tell from the moment I took it out that it had picked up a few extra ponies!
I didn't have an clearance issues with break lines or anything like that, but I did have to drop the starter out to get the driver's side in. The pipes will sit close to the starter so I would certainly recommend a starter thermal wrap unless you want to go through a new starter every couple years. Ceramic coating should also help with heat reduction.
After install, you gotta watch out and take it easy over speed bumps. I scraped them slightly the other day. Luckily it was just the flanges. They hang down below the engine mount cross member.
Most header compaines say that headers won't fit a Cutlass Supreme due to some issue of engine offset, but that's BS. Mine went in just fine and I didn't have to mod a thing. If you have sag in the front cross member that pulled the frame in or you've had a collision then you might have to do a hammering on a pipe or two to keep them away from the frame, but other than that...you'll be fine!
My vote: Hooker competitions with ceramic coating. (and yep, I'm biased!)
I didn't have an clearance issues with break lines or anything like that, but I did have to drop the starter out to get the driver's side in. The pipes will sit close to the starter so I would certainly recommend a starter thermal wrap unless you want to go through a new starter every couple years. Ceramic coating should also help with heat reduction.
After install, you gotta watch out and take it easy over speed bumps. I scraped them slightly the other day. Luckily it was just the flanges. They hang down below the engine mount cross member.
Most header compaines say that headers won't fit a Cutlass Supreme due to some issue of engine offset, but that's BS. Mine went in just fine and I didn't have to mod a thing. If you have sag in the front cross member that pulled the frame in or you've had a collision then you might have to do a hammering on a pipe or two to keep them away from the frame, but other than that...you'll be fine!
My vote: Hooker competitions with ceramic coating. (and yep, I'm biased!)
#7
I just installed a set of blackjack headers on my 71 supreme 350. I did have to take out the starter, dipstick and steering column to install the left side. I didn't have to raise the engine, but did have to bend the header slightly since it was hitting on the top of the motor mount. I had no problem on the pass side after just removing the oil filter housing. I changed the starter to a 1985 307 style since they are about 3/4 the size of the old 350 one, otherwise the starter wires on the solenoid were too close to the header tubes for my liking. I installed both from the bottom.
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