1961 olds super 88 questions 394
#1
1961 olds super 88 questions 394 - more ? on timing
I have a few questions:
1- where is the ign coil resistor supposed to be mounted?
2-checking ATF, run warm and check running?
3-converting to gm alt, will 62 up bracketry work?
1- where is the ign coil resistor supposed to be mounted?
2-checking ATF, run warm and check running?
3-converting to gm alt, will 62 up bracketry work?
Last edited by oldrelics; March 8th, 2014 at 01:20 PM.
#2
You may have to modify the mounting a bit to get the pulley to line up.
#8
#9
If you don't have a factory service manual, join WildAboutCars.com (free) - you can download PDF's of the 61 manual on that site. It has this type of info, plus a wiring diagram.
#11
Thanks guys, I found no resistor on the intake and the coil wiring looks factory taped.
I tried to set dwell tonite but it kept sparking out the little window and shorting out when I stuck the little allen wrench in. It would just completely die out when I try and bring it to 30 from 25....
I tried to set dwell tonite but it kept sparking out the little window and shorting out when I stuck the little allen wrench in. It would just completely die out when I try and bring it to 30 from 25....
#12
Hmmmm... That shouldn't happen.
Are you touching the Allen key against anything other than the screw head?
Ideally, you want to use one of those ball-headed Allen keys, or use a purpose-made GM points adjuster, so as not to place a lateral load on the adjusting screw, which will change the setting while you're setting it, so that it snaps back to a different setting when you remove the Allen key.
What sort of dwell meter are you using, and how are you connecting it?
Also, note that changing your dwell will change your timing (which is why you adjust your timing afterward), so that if your dwell is way off, setting it right may change your timing enough that the car won't run. Set your dwell part way, then readjust your timing, then re-set your dwell, then adjust your timing properly.
- Eric
Are you touching the Allen key against anything other than the screw head?
Ideally, you want to use one of those ball-headed Allen keys, or use a purpose-made GM points adjuster, so as not to place a lateral load on the adjusting screw, which will change the setting while you're setting it, so that it snaps back to a different setting when you remove the Allen key.
What sort of dwell meter are you using, and how are you connecting it?
Also, note that changing your dwell will change your timing (which is why you adjust your timing afterward), so that if your dwell is way off, setting it right may change your timing enough that the car won't run. Set your dwell part way, then readjust your timing, then re-set your dwell, then adjust your timing properly.
- Eric
#13
Okay, I filed the points which then I could set the dwell and timing, I think a carb kit is next and some vacuum issues maybe.
The wire going to the coil is a type of cloth covered wire, resistor? I haven't found a ceramic block anywhere.
Is this a factory power brake booster/master cyl?
This vacuum mess at the back of the carb, factory?
How is the column removed from the steering box?
The wire going to the coil is a type of cloth covered wire, resistor? I haven't found a ceramic block anywhere.
Is this a factory power brake booster/master cyl?
This vacuum mess at the back of the carb, factory?
How is the column removed from the steering box?
Last edited by oldrelics; March 9th, 2014 at 07:17 PM.
#14
Ummmmmm... That hasn't really been considered to be a good idea since about 1951.
When you file them, you can alter the angle slightly, causing burning.
Also, modern points have a thin metallic plating that greatly extends life, and when you file them, it's gone.
Also, since filing removes the "mountain" on one point, but does not remove the "valley" on the other side, it can completely screw up the effective gap.
I'd put in another set.
Yes.
Hell no.
Nope.
- Eric
When you file them, you can alter the angle slightly, causing burning.
Also, modern points have a thin metallic plating that greatly extends life, and when you file them, it's gone.
Also, since filing removes the "mountain" on one point, but does not remove the "valley" on the other side, it can completely screw up the effective gap.
I'd put in another set.
Hell no.
Nope.
- Eric
#15
Yea, I was going to buy a new set, I was just trying this in the interim. BTW I have filed points on other vehicles with no
ill effects, prob just got lucky. Do you recognize the brake setup? What ever it came out of it mounts in the original bolt holes!
ill effects, prob just got lucky. Do you recognize the brake setup? What ever it came out of it mounts in the original bolt holes!
#18
The vacuum setup, although not original, is correct. Some vacuum is supplied from the carb and the fuel pump supplies the rest. The booster/MC looks to be S10, which is exactly what I used on my '61 when installing the Scarebird discs conversion. My car has all the braking it needs, plus some now.
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