1966 Cutlass 330 OEM throttle linkage options
#1
1966 Cutlass 330 OEM throttle linkage options
I am looking to find advice on options for linking the 1966 Cutlass 330 throttle linkage with an Edelbrock 750 with a Torker intake and a TH 350 trans. The linkage could be reused and the kickdown switch could just stay in place but it would be good to know what others have done to replace it.
I would appreciate other ideas and pictures if they are available. The motor should be in the car by Sunday if all goes well with the brake line conversion.
Thanks....
I would appreciate other ideas and pictures if they are available. The motor should be in the car by Sunday if all goes well with the brake line conversion.
Thanks....
Last edited by Larrys'66; February 25th, 2014 at 06:39 PM. Reason: Added detail on carb and trans...
#2
Buy a lokar replacement pedal & cable system, then it will hook up like every other TH350 setup, and you can actually properly adjust the WOT position.
If you haven't put the engine in yet, its the perfect time to do it while you have easy access to the firewall.
If you haven't put the engine in yet, its the perfect time to do it while you have easy access to the firewall.
#3
Thanks RamboW
I had a look the Lokar stuff at Summit Racing, very nice stuff and pricey.... Nothing specific for an Olds though and I would need to confirm if the linkage mounting location on a Chevelle is the same. I know a guy who has a '67 Chevelle, so at least I have a car to compare to.
Maybe I can fabricate a linkage component to take the place of the kickdown switch but I still need to think about the trans.
Maybe I can fabricate a linkage component to take the place of the kickdown switch but I still need to think about the trans.
#4
I am looking to find advice on options for linking the 1966 Cutlass 330 throttle linkage with an Edelbrock 750 with a Torker intake and a TH 350 trans. The linkage could be reused and the kickdown switch could just stay in place but it would be good to know what others have done to replace it.
I would appreciate other ideas and pictures if they are available. The motor should be in the car by Sunday if all goes well with the brake line conversion.
Thanks....
I would appreciate other ideas and pictures if they are available. The motor should be in the car by Sunday if all goes well with the brake line conversion.
Thanks....
#6
Here is how I did it it on my 65, should be real similar on your 66. I removed the stock arm and made a new one using the stock rear pivot a piece of 1/4" metal rod and a new pivot on the front end, all you need all you need is a 1/4" fine thread die to make this and you can bend or make it any length needed.
#7
Here is how I did it it on my 65, should be real similar on your 66. I removed the stock arm and made a new one using the stock rear pivot a piece of 1/4" metal rod and a new pivot on the front end, all you need all you need is a 1/4" fine thread die to make this and you can bend or make it any length needed.
This is what I did on my 66 except instead of a rod end I bent a 90, welded a washer in place, and drilled a hole for a cotter pin. Looks very similar to a stock unit. I like this one much better than mine. As long as you thread the rod far enough you will have plenty of room to adjust the WOT position.
#9
#10
Now that the car is running and driving, it is clear that the stock throttle linkage doesn't have near enough travel to fully open the carb. I get about 3/4 open before my foot is to the floor.
I will take the advice on this thread and work on altering the linkage to see if I can find my secondaries. It was kind of funny to cruise the highway at a top speed of 50 MPH as the mini vans went whizzing past.
I will take the advice on this thread and work on altering the linkage to see if I can find my secondaries. It was kind of funny to cruise the highway at a top speed of 50 MPH as the mini vans went whizzing past.
#12
There is two ways I know of, if your car has always been an auto there is an adjustment below the switch pitch switch on the bottom link that you readjust for more travel and if you hook your carb linkage into a lower hole on the carburetor arm you should be able to shorten the linkage which will give you more travel.
I had to do both on my 65 to get full travel.
I had to do both on my 65 to get full travel.
#13
Thanks Jag1886, I will look more closely. I bead blasted and painted the switch pitch linkage while out of the car and totally missed the adjustment. I did remove the stopper on the linkage to get a little more travel.
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