Jonmueller1

1) I have electronic ignition on this car. Is the coil integrated into the electronic distributor? I don't see a coil anywhere in that area of the engine. Probably a dumb question.




2)After car is run to grocery store, come back out, it won't start. I wait say 1/2 hour then keep cranking it and it eventually fires up. If this is a form of vapor lock, can I put additive in fuel to help?
3) It has an old fuel pump. I bought a new one, what about installing that to see if it helps? Doesn't the diaphragm lose ability to pump effectively with time?
4)If a fuel pump is gradually going bad, does it just quit altogether and car doesn't run, or, does it intermittently cause car not to start at certain unpredictable intervals?
5) I have seen suggestions for running a return fuel line to tank. Also have seen suggestion of adding 1% of 2 cycle oil to fuel which reduces vapor lock.
6)Maybe some of this is "old wives tale" or possibly some is true. I appreciate an expert opinion from this site from someone more knowledgeable than me. Thank You JM

oldcutlass

What I would do is trouble shoot by the process of elimination.


1. Do I have full battery voltage to the HEI distributor? And yes, the coil is built into the cap.


2. At this point, look down into the carb with the air cleaner removed, operate the throttle and see if you have 2 solid streams of fuel spraying in there? Also make sure the choke is engaged or not depending on temperature.


3. and 4. I've found in most cases fuel pumps either work or don't. The other issue is if the diaphram is leaking fuel into the crank case.


5. Since your car and others have survived for over 40 years without a return line, why would you want to put one on now? However I would make sure the fuel tank vents are working properly.


6. Vapor lock is not usually an issue this time of year unless the outside air temps or your engine operating temp is extremely high. Adding 2 cycle oil to fuel is probably the same as adding trans fluid, Rislone, Marvel Mystery, etc...


Please do a bit of trouble shooting and make sure you have spark and fuel. At that point you have a direction and not speculation.

Octania

Spark is more likely to fail, in my experience.
Swap out the HEI module - they are readily available

especially if examination when misbehaving shows weak or no spark at the end of the plug wires.

tru-blue 442

^^^X2. Again.
The squirts then the sparks, always
one then two, good luck.

Fun71

Carry some starting fluid with you. When it fails to start again, spray some into the carb and see if it starts. If so, it's a fuel problem. If not, it's a spark problem.

Jonmueller1

I think this is great site. Thank you for all your responses, I shall proceed with these as the weather permits, a very Merry Christmas to all!

sixtyfour

Don't know if this applies to you, but when I got my 64 442 out after sitting for forty years I had to put new eldebrocks on it, it would start like a champ but after running it for say 45min to 1 hour it wouldn't start to well. Eldebrock service tech told me the new ethenol fuels vapor lock at a lower temp than the orginal fuels. I was instructed to put a wooden spacer plate under the carbs, and havent had a problem since. So, don't know what the folks here will have to say. Just saying it worked for me.