Factory A/C success stories - GM '66-'72
June 29th, 2012, 04:31 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Factory A/C success stories - GM '66-'72
So I have been long researching which way to rebuild my 72 Cutlass's factory A/C system. 
There are about as many success stories to every configuation as there are failures. There are good and bad to almost every functional component of the system. So instead of just reading other forums, which could be out of date or inaccurate, or ASSumptions, I want to know what you guys have been using with reliable success, whether original or not! I want facts that have been proven in use, not ideas in theory.
So here are the rules of the thread!
0. The evaporator core / box and controls must be stock to the car.
1. Must be a GM FACTORY installed A/C system from 1966 to 1972 that originally used the POA valve.
2. System must have been working reliably through at least one hot season and was used quite a bit. Must not have been serviced at all within that time!
3. Tell us what year, make, model, and body style (coupe, sedan, wagon, convertible).
4. Tell us what refrigerent you are using - only choices will be R12 or 134a.
5. Tell us what compressor you are using - original A6, rebuilt A6, new A6, new other brand, etc. Model numbers or name of rebuilder / supplier would be very helpful.
6. Tell us what condenser you are using. Original stock, new stock, stock type parallel flow, or new universal. Source would be helpful...
7. Tell us what fan setup you are using - # of fan blades (engine driven), clutch or not (engine driven), shroud or not, CFM (electric), etc.
8. Tell us if you are using the POA valve or the drop-in cycling switch replacement. Is it set to proper refrigerent type?? If POA, is it original or rebuilt?
9. Tell us anything else that could be helpful, like links to your AC build...
10. Please do NOT ask technical questions here - start a new thread instead.
Optional...
Some vent temperatures / ambient temperatures at idle and cruise would be helpful if you have them. "Dad-burned cold" would work if you live in the south.
Also let us know about any problems that occured right after build, but were successfuly repaired.
The results that are gathered here will hopefully help me make up my mind of what I will do with Lady's A/C system.
Hopefully this will be a fun yet informative thread!
---Here is an easy form to copy and paste...
Year, make, model, body style -
Years in constant working state -
Refrigerent -
Compressor -
Condenser -
Fan setup -
POA valve or cycling switch -
optional but helpful...
Vent / ambient temperatures at idle -
Vent / ambient temperatures at cruise -
Links to A/C system build -
Any issues encountered and corrected?
Any recurring issues?
There are about as many success stories to every configuation as there are failures. There are good and bad to almost every functional component of the system. So instead of just reading other forums, which could be out of date or inaccurate, or ASSumptions, I want to know what you guys have been using with reliable success, whether original or not! I want facts that have been proven in use, not ideas in theory.
So here are the rules of the thread!
0. The evaporator core / box and controls must be stock to the car.
1. Must be a GM FACTORY installed A/C system from 1966 to 1972 that originally used the POA valve.
2. System must have been working reliably through at least one hot season and was used quite a bit. Must not have been serviced at all within that time!
3. Tell us what year, make, model, and body style (coupe, sedan, wagon, convertible).
4. Tell us what refrigerent you are using - only choices will be R12 or 134a.
5. Tell us what compressor you are using - original A6, rebuilt A6, new A6, new other brand, etc. Model numbers or name of rebuilder / supplier would be very helpful.
6. Tell us what condenser you are using. Original stock, new stock, stock type parallel flow, or new universal. Source would be helpful...
7. Tell us what fan setup you are using - # of fan blades (engine driven), clutch or not (engine driven), shroud or not, CFM (electric), etc.
8. Tell us if you are using the POA valve or the drop-in cycling switch replacement. Is it set to proper refrigerent type?? If POA, is it original or rebuilt?
9. Tell us anything else that could be helpful, like links to your AC build...
10. Please do NOT ask technical questions here - start a new thread instead.
Optional...
Some vent temperatures / ambient temperatures at idle and cruise would be helpful if you have them. "Dad-burned cold" would work if you live in the south.
Also let us know about any problems that occured right after build, but were successfuly repaired.
The results that are gathered here will hopefully help me make up my mind of what I will do with Lady's A/C system.
Hopefully this will be a fun yet informative thread!
---Here is an easy form to copy and paste...
Year, make, model, body style -
Years in constant working state -
Refrigerent -
Compressor -
Condenser -
Fan setup -
POA valve or cycling switch -
optional but helpful...
Vent / ambient temperatures at idle -
Vent / ambient temperatures at cruise -
Links to A/C system build -
Any issues encountered and corrected?
Any recurring issues?
June 29th, 2012, 07:33 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
Rob, is the Vintage Air system out of the question? I know you want your car to look factory but from what I hear from the Austin Olds guys that used their cars as R&D for the system are REALLY happy with it. The Prez of the STOC said he can't get out of the driveway before his freezes him out and he has to turn it down.
Year, make, model, body style - 1972 Oldsmobile, Cutlass Supreme, Convertible
Years in constant working state - 5 years
Refrigerent - 134A
Compressor - Original A6
Condenser - Factory
Fan setup - Factory Clutch
POA valve or cycling switch - POA valve (converted)
optional but helpful...
Vent / ambient temperatures at idle -
Vent / ambient temperatures at cruise -
Links to A/C system build -
Any issues encountered and corrected?
Any recurring issues? - If the system is used from the morning throughout the day it stays cool, not cold. However, if you park the car in the heat and then restart it the system will not cool the interior down. It is great at maintaining the temperature, but cannot overcome a heat saturated car. IDK if it's because it's a convertible or if it's just an inefficient system.
Year, make, model, body style - 1972 Oldsmobile, Cutlass Supreme, Convertible
Years in constant working state - 5 years
Refrigerent - 134A
Compressor - Original A6
Condenser - Factory
Fan setup - Factory Clutch
POA valve or cycling switch - POA valve (converted)
optional but helpful...
Vent / ambient temperatures at idle -
Vent / ambient temperatures at cruise -
Links to A/C system build -
Any issues encountered and corrected?
Any recurring issues? - If the system is used from the morning throughout the day it stays cool, not cold. However, if you park the car in the heat and then restart it the system will not cool the interior down. It is great at maintaining the temperature, but cannot overcome a heat saturated car. IDK if it's because it's a convertible or if it's just an inefficient system.
June 30th, 2012, 07:12 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Yes, I am reviewing only factory systems. I will not be retrofitting another system into Lady, nor the wagon when i get it. Want stock look, do not want the work/hassle of retrofitting.
What do you mean converted?
Is this a real POA valve calibrated to 134 or is it the new cycling switch that bolts in its place?
Which of these do you have?
What do you mean converted?
Is this a real POA valve calibrated to 134 or is it the new cycling switch that bolts in its place?
Which of these do you have?
June 30th, 2012, 08:12 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,703
It's a POA valve that is recalibrated to run at the higher pressure that 134A needs to run at. Taken from classic auto air:
"If you are converting to 134a Refrigerant, your POA Valve will need to be recalibrated to by-pass at a different rate than it did with the old R12 Refrigerant.
You can send your POA Valve to us and we can test it for you. If it passes a series of tests, we can recondition and recalibrate it for you. If it is a Frigidaire Valve and it fails any of the tests, we can completely rebuild it..."
Back to me:
The problem with doing this conversion to your system is that the 134 needs a higher pressure but the A6 was never designed to be run at that high of pressure. It is inefficient but can be 'made' to work. The best route is to get a Sanden compressor if you're going to use 134A as it is designed for the higher pressure making it more efficient.
This is what the plan was for my silver car (Mobi), but I need the space on the firewall and have heard such great reviews for the VA stuff I'm gonna go that route. As I stated in PM, you can have anything you want from the silver car...It's all coming out today and tomorrow. I'll bring whatever you want from it and you can have it tested before you put it in your car to be sure it will work.
"If you are converting to 134a Refrigerant, your POA Valve will need to be recalibrated to by-pass at a different rate than it did with the old R12 Refrigerant.
You can send your POA Valve to us and we can test it for you. If it passes a series of tests, we can recondition and recalibrate it for you. If it is a Frigidaire Valve and it fails any of the tests, we can completely rebuild it..."
Back to me:
The problem with doing this conversion to your system is that the 134 needs a higher pressure but the A6 was never designed to be run at that high of pressure. It is inefficient but can be 'made' to work. The best route is to get a Sanden compressor if you're going to use 134A as it is designed for the higher pressure making it more efficient.
This is what the plan was for my silver car (Mobi), but I need the space on the firewall and have heard such great reviews for the VA stuff I'm gonna go that route. As I stated in PM, you can have anything you want from the silver car...It's all coming out today and tomorrow. I'll bring whatever you want from it and you can have it tested before you put it in your car to be sure it will work.
July 13th, 2012, 11:21 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 169
Year, make, model, body style - 1971 Oldsmobile, Cutlass S
Years in constant working state - 5 years
Refrigerent - 134A
Compressor - Original A6
Condenser - Cross Flow
Fan setup - Factory Clutch
POA valve or cycling switch - Cycle Switch
optional but helpful...
Vent / ambient temperatures at idle - 37 degrees
Vent / ambient temperatures at cruise -
Links to A/C system build - http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ac%20complete/
Any issues encountered and corrected? No
Any recurring issues? - Temp was 87 degrees and overcast/ not hot.. I will post later on a typical hot Houston day on how the car cools down after being in the sun and, whatambienttemp is on a hot (100 degrees) day...
Years in constant working state - 5 years
Refrigerent - 134A
Compressor - Original A6
Condenser - Cross Flow
Fan setup - Factory Clutch
POA valve or cycling switch - Cycle Switch
optional but helpful...
Vent / ambient temperatures at idle - 37 degrees
Vent / ambient temperatures at cruise -
Links to A/C system build - http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ac%20complete/
Any issues encountered and corrected? No
Any recurring issues? - Temp was 87 degrees and overcast/ not hot.. I will post later on a typical hot Houston day on how the car cools down after being in the sun and, whatambienttemp is on a hot (100 degrees) day...
July 13th, 2012, 02:08 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 169
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