classicjoe

Today, all of my A/C parts were delivered and Im ready to get my A/C retro fit journey started which I will be converting everything over to R134A. After much research and talking with several A/C technicians i have decided to repace all my old A/C parts. The following is the plan:

• Replace the condenser with the new cross flow design
• Replace all of my hoses and o rings
• Replace the drier
• Replace the expansion valve
• Replace the evaporator
• Replace my compressor
• Replace my POA valve with a "new" POA w/ a cycle switch

The install starts this weekend and I will post my results

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Aceshigh

Mind if I ask you what all of that cost you and where you purchased it from ??

I have all my old AC equipment sitting on my garage floor.
I wasn't sure if I should throw it out, or sell it and start over.

I think I want all new stuff so I'm curious what it runs for everything.
It's either this, or Vintage Air or Classic Auto Air.

Lady72nRob71

What compressor are you going to use? If sticking with the A6, I would recommend keeping the POA valve, as the A6 and its clutch are not designed for cycling and can fail sooner when cycled.
POA valves can be tested and calibrated easily for 134 (I just did a friend's today).
If you are running a sanden, then the cycling switch should work fine with it.

Should you wish to get rid of the POA valve, I would consider buying it from you to test and keep as a spare.

Did you get new O-rings? Make sure you get the correct size for the two small POA fittings. Repops are often the wrong size and can cause leaks. Correct rings are industry size number is ARP568-901

classicjoe

I purchased my componets from several sources. The hoses, valves and drier were purchased from Old Air Product. The compressor and the evaporator were purchased from O'riley Auto Parts ( purchased last year) and my Condenser were purchased from Classic Auto Air. My total cost for all of the above was $844.00. Hope this helps..

classicjoe

Rob yes, I'm using a new A6 Compressor with my retrofit. After speaking with John and Curtis of Old Air Product about using the A6 with the upgraded POA with the cut off switch, both agree that most of their customers uses that set up with no problem. Also, I have a friend that have been using his A6 with the updated POA for over three years with no problems so far so, I'm convinced.

I'm a bit of a Pack Rack when it comes to auto parts so, I think I will hold on to my POA valve, for now. Thanks for the size number on the O rings, I plan on replacing all of them.

DeltaPace77

Just so you know, a POA valve is a capacity reduction bypass valve, based on system pressures. Since R-12 and R-134a operate at different system pressures, assuming your meaning of updated POA valve, is set up for R-134a use. Not meaning to be a wet blanket here, but pretty important.

classicjoe

Yes, I'm fully aware of the function of the POA valve. The ^^^^^ post was a response to Rob's statement in reference to using the factory A6 compressor with an "updated POA valve, which has a cycle switch in which it wasnt orginally design to do. Read my orginal post " R-134a retrofit".

Lady72nRob71

The device he got to replace the POA valve is not even a POA varient. It is neither an update or an upgrade, but a conversion part to eliminate suction throttling and cycle the compressor clutch instead when there is extra cooling capacity.
There are R12 and R134 versions, He should have been sold the one for 134.

classicjoe

This is the same POA that my friend has. It is marketed as a POA "update kit" and the fittings I have are for a R-134a. The out come that I'm looking for with this conversion is to leverage modern technogly to achive the same comfort level as the newer vehicles. I know there are a lot of purish on the board but at some time, we have to accept the facts. It wont be long untill R12 will be in the musuem and we all will be using R-134a or another type of freon.

DeltaPace77

You're right about that, as R-1234yr is being phased in right now, as a replacement to current R-134a. You can thank the european union for this one. It's pretty common knowledge, home/commercial R-22, has been replaced with R410a over the past couple years. I've been in the refrigeration industry for years, and this whole thing's becoming little more than a political joke now, doing nothing for the environment, and of course raising prices to the consumer. Anyway, good idea giving your system a UV trace dye shot when reassembling it, as will make leak tracing, much simpler later on.

classicjoe

Thanks DeltaPace77 for the tip on the UV dye shot. After assembly, my plan was to pump her down for a while and see if it holds a vacume overnight.

brown7373

The crossflow condenser is a good move. It made a major difference in my A/C in traffic and at stop lights after I installed it.

classicjoe

brown7373, what temputure did you getting out of your vents after your conversion?

Lady72nRob71

POA valves can be used with R12 or R134 - just have to set the bypass pressure on the bench to match which you will use. Compressed air, a nutdriver, and a pressure gauge is all you need.

This stupid valve has caused the most contraversy I have ever seen.
On some AC forums (sponsered by a site that even sells the cycling switches), the POA is superior to cycling, according to their personal experience. At local shops I talk to, they say they always have problems, according to their personal experience. Some old timers say the POAs rarely go bad. Some guys say they are tempermental.
Some guys burned up the A6 clutches by cycling them, some have not.
Some guys here are running POAs with no issues. Some have installed this conversion kit and have complained about it. Some have installed and never said how good it worked.

Things like this is why my AC is not done yet - not sure what way to go or who to believe.

Please keep this thread updated. Real life experience is what I want to base my system rebuild on.

classicjoe

The debate on the cycle switch ( POA replacement valve) is the reason why I didnt do this prject last summer. I have heard all kind of opinions on whats the right direction to go in respect to vehicle's with POA valves. Well, its been over 100 degrees the last few days in Houston and its not even Summer yet. So, I decided to pull the trigger and install all new componets with the cycle valve. Worst case scanioro would be the big A6 burn up as and need to be replaced. If that occurs, I will simply convert over to the sanden compressor and all should be well as the entire system would have already been converted over to R134a. Any way, I will post the results of this project.

cheven

Thanks for starting this thread, I was just logging on to see what could be done about my ac? (1969 cutlass) I'm in Ohio so I don't get to use my cars much, but hate seeing that compressor just sitting there ...beltless

Lady72nRob71

Better than mine, which is in a box on the garage floor, in the way of my feet...

classicjoe

Update:
The install of the componets went well execpt for a few minior issues. The evaporator was 20 degrees off so, I took it to the radiator shop to make the correct bend and weld back . Also, while taking off the evaporator box, one of the the nuts was stripped and wouldnt come off the stud. As a result, the box cracked but will be repaired before being reinstalled.
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Lady72nRob71

Wow - looks familiar... I restored my evap box last year and it came out great. Details are in my underhood resto thread if you want to see what you are up against.
That break should be able able to be epoxied back in.

I assume you mean the top pipe (to the POA) was off 20*. I saw that in the store. That was the reason i did not go with the Oreilly core. It was a great price but did not like the looks. Glad you got it straightened out!

Looks like that firewall can use a quick detailing while the box is out.
Wait - there is no 'quick' version...

jensenracing77

this is why i will be using the original setup with R-12. i know it works great.

classicjoe

[QUOTE=I assume you mean the top pipe (to the POA) was off 20*. I saw that in the store. That was the reason i did not go with the Oreilly core. It was a great price but did not like the looks. Glad you got it straightened out!

Right, the upper pipe that connnects to the POA is 20* off ( Please be aware if you purchase one from Oriley's). When I did a dry fit, the POA replacement valvle was pointed at the hood hinge. This was unaccaptable and I broght it right to the raditator shop to make the correct bend. Also, I had the shop test my orginal evaporator and it tested good,no leaks so, I probably will be listing it for sale soon.

Looks like that firewall can use a quick detailing while the box is out.
Wait - there is no 'quick' version...[/QUOTE]

I will be detailing the firewall while its out, I dont plan on taking this box out anytime soon. Also, I will be replacing the blower motor and clening up the blower cage.

brown7373

I get below 30 all the time and down to as low as 22 degrees. I would mention that I live in south Florida, but that doesn't matter now, since it is hotter up north and in Texas than it is down here. I replaced dryer, expansion valve, got the crossflow condenser and switched to a rebuilt POA calibrated to 134A. It has been working great!

Lady72nRob71

Easy - soak in deruster, wash, and paint!

classicjoe

I hope this POA replacement valve works as good as my friends and all the other sucess stories I heard about . If it doesnt, i will send my POA out to ger calibrated and rebuilt.

classicjoe

WoW, what a week! First my "NEW" heater core started to leak ( I bypassed it for now) and I had to purchased a new evaporator core from Classic Auto Air. So, after all the drama was over I was able to install all of my components for my A/C system. The system was then vacumed down for 40 minutes and held the vacume for 5 hours. The system was then charged with 30oz of R134a...

The temperature read 37 degrees at the vents with an outside ambient temperature of 82 degrees ( not as low as I expected however, I'm satisfied). The cycle switch was cycling the A6 without any problems. My engine temperature went up 10 degrees: Driving temp before/after: 170/190...Idle temp Before/After 190/200....
Below are some pics of the install..
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droptopron

Congrats. I am glad the hard work paid off.