Del70

Looking into replacing the brake line from the proportioning value to the axle. And the fuel line from the pump to the tank. Both using the one piece – pre bent lines from in line... couple of questions

1 lines are folded for shipping. anyone have issues removing the shipping bend/s (I can pick them up but may not be abel to fit them into my car, so I may have to have them shipped)

2 Fuel line - I Assume I can easily join the new line to rubber line/tank metal line…I don’t want to drop the tank if I don't have to... Any thoughts on this , tips etc

3 Brake Line main -From proportioning valve to axel rubber line. Looks like I it can be replaced w/o lifting the frame (I will not lift the frame) only area I see is at the front , it looks like the line runs over the frame?...I assume I can get the line over it (already replaced axel line and hose)

I have the assembly manual , and service books for ref…looking for feedback, tips pictures etc

thanks

DENT

I had no problem straitening the lines from ILT , they fit good but my body is off. My guess is they will work good. I picked them up and the box fit in my back seat , depends on how big your car is.

Pacecar

If you have a bench, try rolling the lines out across the bench. that straightens them out for the most part. There will be areas where the lines bend going across the frame, I had to use a block of wood and a hammer to sharpen the bends so they fit better and closer to the frame. Going along, one clamp at a time from one end to the other and adjusting along the way

Del70

thanks. Did you install the lines with the body on?.

joesw31

I have not had any problems using ILT products and they are the best on the market.

For the shipping bends; they are easy to remove.

The brakes lines are easy to change and the body does not need to be lifted on your cutlass.

The fuel line can not be changed with the body on the frame due to the way the fuel line is routed on the back and above the frame rail. You can section the fuel line in with no problems. You may also have problems removing the fuel line clip on the top rail frame rail.

Rickman48

I just did a '65 Catalina 2+2 with Inline Tubes a couple weeks ago, on the car!
Determine front and rear, and straighten while under the car - much easier to get over the crossmember.
You can actually straighten the 'shipping bend' against the frame, and hook them pretty easily!

Del70

thanks for the feedback. I was under the car yesterday looking at the fuel line. More I looked at, the more I got that bad feeling that a one piece fuel line might be impossible to get it up and over the frame to the tank. It might make sence to just make the rest of that section by hand and join the other line I made already in place for many years , running the rest of the way to the front. I am thinking a smaller section at the rear might be possible since I can move it about.. Just would have been nice to replace the entire thing with a more factory fuel correct line.

Junkman

I have found that trying to replace brake or fuel lines on the car when it is up on jack stands is just about impossible, since you have limited work area, and are working on your back. If you can get access to a lift, it will make the job a lot easier, and it will go a lot faster. Sometimes, you need to turn (spin) a line to get it to clear an obstacle, and when the car is in the air, you can clearly see which way you need to turn and twist the line to get it where it belongs.

joesw31

For sectioning the fuel line: Remove the right rear tire; section the new fuel line infront of the right rear lower control arm (approx. area); install the new rear upper section of the fuel line from the outside of car between the wheel well and frame where you removed the tire.

I have installed several using this method with just joining the fuel line with fuel hose and clamps.

Pacecar

I installed the brake and fuel lines with the body off. Each line has a large clip or clamp that goes over the rear axle. Very tough to get at with the body on. And on my fuel line ( single line ) there were two other smaller clips that were hard to get at.

rcorrigan5

I installed the fuel lines intact (didn't have to cut them) on my '68 4-4-2 with the body "on". With the car on a lift, I loosened all the frame-to-body bolts. I removed the tank. I used a transmission jack with a good size piece of 3/4" plywood on top to press up against the trunk area and slightly lift the body above the frame. That gave me just enough room to snake the fuel lines between the body and frame at the passenger rear wheel opening, as well as get the back part of the fuel lines through the same opening and then lined up where they go. It allowed enough room to secure the fuel lines with the stock fasteners along the frame (especially the point where the lines are fastened on the top forward side of the frame as it rises over the wheel opening). I tightened the frame-to-body bolts after the fuel lines were in place and secured, and then re-installed the gas tank. All worked well.

Randy C.

Del70

Did you try to install w/o lifting the body? (sure you did, trying to undersatand the major issues you found...). It looks like there is room along the frame once you get past the control arm area. May have to straighten the section the runs to the tank to help it get over the top brace of the frame.., but it looks possible ..maybe?. The little section where the line runs up and over the frame before the control arm looks like the issue for a full line. I may buy a section from the parts store and bent it to simulate the factory piece and try it try to understand where the issues in the area . For me, there is no way I am lifting the body. Car is complete . The fender margins will never be the same and I fear damaging things. I want to avoid this if I can..thanks

70ConvCutlass

Del70,

Just curious to understand if you were able to install the single piece brake line from Inline with the body on. I have my '70 Cutlass on jack stands now, but seems impossible without cuttling the line or lifting the body. Would appreciate any tips anyone has to offer! Thanks!

kitfoxdave

on my 72 cutlass I used right stuff brake lines (Stainless) It was very tight with the old compressed body mount over the control arm front bushing lug. I decided to lift the body and install the brake and furl lines. Not difficult that way... to get the fuel line clamp bolt undone over the rear crossmember, I bout a 1/2 in wrench at northern tool, heated it with acetelyne torch and bent it in 2 directions....

70ConvCutlass

Sounds like I'll have to investigate lifting teh body slightly. Thanks!

mike's88

If you have to cut the fuel line, use flare fittings. Flare the lines before you install, then use a drop of red thread locker on the fitting AFTER you get everything lined up.

kitfoxdave

This is a picture of my modified 1/2 wrench for getting at the clamp bolt in the tight spot above the rear cross member and above the control arm mount lugs.

Koda

Is inline tube better to deal with than I heard they used to be? I heard classic tube was the way to go.

kitfoxdave

the fuel lines I got from Inline tube fit better than the brake lines I got from right stuff... I got my tubes quickly from both. Did not have trouble at all with inline tube.

70ConvCutlass

Well, I was able to install the brake line this morning. Removed the rear shock and coil spring to snake the line in from teh rear. Had to use a pry bar to create space between the upper control arm mount and the bottom of the body. Lines are connected, not I have to figure out the best way to bleed the brakes since the since the lines are empty...

kitfoxdave

I just cracked the bleeders open and filled the reservoir with fluid, let gravity do the work overnight. Put something under the bleeders to catch the drips... Then bleed it normally from that point.

70ConvCutlass

I haven't had much luck bleeding the brakes, I've tried the gravity method, tried using a bleeder kit, double checked all line connections, etc. Just can't seem to get anything to flow through the back lines.

At this point, (through the power of the internet), I have determined the proportioning block valve may have engaged when the rear line began leaking fluid (a safety mechanism to prevent total lose of fluid/brakes?).

The block is right next to the header and gonna be a real pain in the #$% to remove. And once removed, not sure if I can "reset" the valve or if it will require replacement (more $$$).

Weather permitting, and if I have enough time and patience on Sunday I may take a stab at it. Otherwise my next post may be a detail overview of the car and new parts for any interested parties


BTW, sure could have used that modified wrench from Kitfoxdave!

kitfoxdave

Special Wrench? a couple bucks at northern tool, a few minutes of torch time and voila!