1970 cutlass "S" 455 How much horsepower??
#1
1970 cutlass "S" 455 How much horsepower??
Have had my cutlass for almost 2 years now, am 17 and have yet to get it dynoed. Based on all the info the guy has given me when i bought it? How much horsepower do you think it has?
Olldsmobile 455 engine
750 CFM edelbrock carb
Edelbrock performance olds 455 intake
Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads (RPM performer)
Comp Cam XR276HR hyrdrollic roller
Intake Exhaust
Duration 276 282
Duration .50 224 230
Valve Lift .505 .505
Lobe Lift .316 .316
Speed pro forged pistons and pins
high volume oil pump
MSD distributor
Msd igntion (MSD 6AL)
Anything you think i forgot let me know and ill see if i can find it out for yall! Thanks appreciate this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Olldsmobile 455 engine
750 CFM edelbrock carb
Edelbrock performance olds 455 intake
Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads (RPM performer)
Comp Cam XR276HR hyrdrollic roller
Intake Exhaust
Duration 276 282
Duration .50 224 230
Valve Lift .505 .505
Lobe Lift .316 .316
Speed pro forged pistons and pins
high volume oil pump
MSD distributor
Msd igntion (MSD 6AL)
Anything you think i forgot let me know and ill see if i can find it out for yall! Thanks appreciate this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
#3
I'd put it at about 450 crank hp, with torque everywhere. Figure high 300's at the wheels for driveline loss. Maybe sounds a bit low, but worth paying for some chassis dyno tuning compared to what you've already got into it. Carb jetting and dizzy tuning can really make a difference.
#6
My car's a similar 455 build to yours with TH350(actually 375), and was fine on the street, until changing to a 3.73 posi axle. Highway cruising rpm was a bit much, and changed to a beefed 700R4 o.d. lock up. Probably not up to drag slick 1/4 mi track use, but pretty sweet on the street. Highly recommended, unless really beating up on things.
#7
I would estimate that horsepower to be near 465-475 range and your torque around 530 maybe a bit more, this is assuming you have headers (large tube), 10:1 compression and a good 2.5" dual exhaust. That cam and the heads are your largest increase in power. I will run this on my engine analyzer desktop dyno later and send you a more accurate figure. The dyno program I use cost $400 and has so far been within 5-10 horsepower either way on every motor I have built.
#8
FYI Tuning will also be a huge factor. Having a carb and distributor out of tune can reduce horsepower by more than 50 depending on how off the two parts are. I will estimate everything for you assuming the motor is tuned near perfect.
#9
I would estimate that horsepower to be near 465-475 range and your torque around 530 maybe a bit more, this is assuming you have headers (large tube), 10:1 compression and a good 2.5" dual exhaust. That cam and the heads are your largest increase in power. I will run this on my engine analyzer desktop dyno later and send you a more accurate figure. The dyno program I use cost $400 and has so far been within 5-10 horsepower either way on every motor I have built.
#10
#11
Think you're in pretty good shape with your current 2-1/2" exhaust "j", as have a 3" Dynomax Super Turbo set up on mine, and a bit overkill that pops a lot when really getting on it. By the way, beautiful car you have there, and can only imagine having something like that at 17. Probably do something about the intake though. I usually modify a stock filter housing, hosing in air before the hot rad.
#12
Think you're in pretty good shape with your current 2-1/2" exhaust "j", as have a 3" Dynomax Super Turbo set up on mine, and a bit overkill that pops a lot when really getting on it. By the way, beautiful car you have there, and can only imagine having something like that at 17. Probably do something about the intake though. I usually modify a stock filter housing, hosing in air before the hot rad.
#13
Not sure about the air gap, as using a standard aluminum Edelbrock 455 performer on mine. Dave Smith Iron ported, polished, cc'd adjustable valvetrain heads w/TRW forged pistons, for 10.5 compression. With the mentioned 3.73 posi axle and 700R4's 3.05 1st, thing really moves. Also running the 6AL ignition w/rear mounted Mallory 140 electric fuel pump. Q-Jet and dizzy are propery dialed in, and fresh air intake, that really helps on hot days.
#16
Thanks guys!! Sorry for the late response! But whenever i get my car dynoed i will let yall know the results!! and @ DeltaPace77 your talking about running to air vents around the radiator to get cooler air forced in the carb?
#17
Not talking about ram air, just getting cooler intake air, rather than heated through te radiator. Most cars mid 70's up started hosing in air from a fender well. Mine was like this, but was a pretty restrictive set up. I opened things up a bit, plus ran a second hose to the other fender well.
#18
I hope your not hooking up with those bfgs and that jacked up suspension. Anything with that much power should annihilate those tires.
I had a mismatch built car when I was younger, too much cam, not enough compression, converter with not enough stall, 2" headers etc etc, sounded mean but it was a dog and still roasted bfgs
Hopefully they took advantage of the aluminum heads and put some compression in it for you.
I had a mismatch built car when I was younger, too much cam, not enough compression, converter with not enough stall, 2" headers etc etc, sounded mean but it was a dog and still roasted bfgs
Hopefully they took advantage of the aluminum heads and put some compression in it for you.
#19
Not talking about ram air, just getting cooler intake air, rather than heated through te radiator. Most cars mid 70's up started hosing in air from a fender well. Mine was like this, but was a pretty restrictive set up. I opened things up a bit, plus ran a second hose to the other fender well.
#20
I hope your not hooking up with those bfgs and that jacked up suspension. Anything with that much power should annihilate those tires.
I had a mismatch built car when I was younger, too much cam, not enough compression, converter with not enough stall, 2" headers etc etc, sounded mean but it was a dog and still roasted bfgs
Hopefully they took advantage of the aluminum heads and put some compression in it for you.
I had a mismatch built car when I was younger, too much cam, not enough compression, converter with not enough stall, 2" headers etc etc, sounded mean but it was a dog and still roasted bfgs
Hopefully they took advantage of the aluminum heads and put some compression in it for you.
#21
Don't think a wider street tire's gonna do you any good, as you're already very wide. Probably have to go with a softer compound tire like drag radials. Hard to believe you could actually fit 325's back there, as have a late model Corvette ZO6 with 325/35/19's on 12" rims, and the bodywork is flared. The lower couple gears spin the factory tires quite easily, but only a 3100 lb car. Run Hoosier R6's for road track days, and these do the trick when warmed up.
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