mr.69delta

Hello everyone my uncle gave me his old 69 delta 88 thats been sitting for 15 years outside uncoverd. I towed the car home and it fired up with a new battery and oil. it seems to run just fine no white smoke just some black carbon build up. it fired up everytime the first time no knockes no leaks. I can floor the gas and it just melts the back tires down the street. even tho it runs well is there somethings i should change. This is my first olds car and first big block so im just trying to get all the info i can. I plan to drive this car 3 hours away to hot august nights in reno nevada next year. any suggestions? (YEP THE FACTORY AC STILL WORKS...COLD)

jpaulwhite

Pics :-)

mr.69delta

yes i have pics in the newbie forum just posted a few

jaunty75

With the engine now running, you've gotten THE major issue out of the way. You might put 100 miles on the car and then change the oil again.

More importantly, you want to check the brake system. Check the rubber hoses for deterioration, check the wheel cylinders to make sure they're not leaking, pull of the brake drums and check the shoes for wear and the brake hardware for corrosion and general condition. Rebuild kits for the drum brakes are easy to get. I don't know if your car has front discs or not.

You likely want to drain and refill the coolant and probably the transmission fluid as well. Check all hoses (radiator, vacuum, fuel) for leaks and general deterioration.

f-85

x2 But I wouldnt touch the coolant or the trans fluid if its good. If the coolant is nasty then change it, if its clean leave it. Check the trans fluid if anything, but i wouldnt change it. Top it off if needed.

Another thing on old cars i like to do it put in Mechanical gauges. That way i can see whats going on with the engine at all times. (Temp,oil,amp) You can get cheap sets for $30 at your local auto parts store.

MDchanic

I'd check the dwell and the timing and make sure the advance diaphragm is working okay.

I'd also consider changing the spark plug wires, especially if they weren't new 15 years ago, as they can often begin to leak over the years, and it's often only noticeable under load (at higher voltages). I'd also take a look at the spark plugs after a bit of driving, just to be sure there are no "surprises" (you'd be amazed at how well these things can run on seven cylinders).

As Jaunty said, check your belts and hoses, and your brakes (make sure there's enough meat on the pads and shoes, and that the wheel cylinders aren't oozing).

Carry a spare set of points and condenser (these can be had new-in-the-box, VERY CHEAP at flea markets and such).

Can't think of much else...

Good luck, and welcome!

- Eric

rustyroger

Have a good look at the tires, if they are 15+ years old they could fail anytime even if they look in great shape.
Crack off and retighten the lug nuts too.

mr.69delta

On the down side I do have drum breaks all the way around but summit sells a disk kit for like 750 so I think im going to be getting that. I was told they dont make the drums for these care anymore im not sure how true that is.

mr.69delta

Well today I found out I had 2 lose spark plugs but im going to put a full tune up on it. I just ordered an hei distributor and some other things. The motor had a bad valve cover leak so i pulled the covers off and painted them olds gold and plan to pressure wash the engine. I got a edelbrock 4bbl intake and a Q-jet carb for it. I still have the stock rochestor 2bbl carb and intake. I was thinking of holding on to it or maybe selling it to someone who needs those factory parts.

jaunty75

I've got a '67 Delta 88 with drum brakes on all four wheels. The car stops just fine, and I've no plan to convert anything to disk brakes. Certainly disk brakes were and are an improvement over drums, but drums were not unsafe.

When I got my car two years ago, I redid all four wheels. New cylinders, had the drums turned, replaced the shoes and all hold-down hardware, and they work fine.

As I say, standard parts to repair your brakes are readily available. If you need the drums themselves, they're available, too, from Kanter.

http://www.kanter.com///productdetai...0&Cat=6&Prc=35

At about $100 each, they're not cheap, but if you need one you need one.

MDchanic

Why? Why not get it going well first, and then start making changes that could adversely affect running?

I believe the '69 455 was the last year of Olds Red. Gold was for the 350, and I think 455 Blue started in 1970.

You're unlikely to make significantly more power with the 4-barrel.

- Eric

mr.69delta

Its running! maybe you didnt read the post but the car runs great. And yes the engine was red but I myself like the gold better. And the car came with a 4bbl out the factory it was changed to a 2bbl in the mid 80's so im correcting the carb swap....... and I have never heard anyone say 4bbl carb will pound out the same as a little carter 2bbl..... trust me with cam intake and exhaust all being replaced im sure that little 2bbl wont get it.

MDchanic

My point was that sometimes it's best to get the car on the road, bugs out of it, driving regularly, before making major aftermarket changes.


You were not clear on this point.

A car that had originally come with a 4-bbl would be expected to run better with one.

However, when the opposite change is made, and a 4-bbl is put on a car that was originally a 2-bbl, the expected increase in power often doesn't materialize.
No matter how large the carburetor is, if the engine is not set up to use the extra capacity, there will be no benefit, and often it won't run as well as it did before.

- Eric

Blk71SX

amen!

getting your car to run right can sometimes be a PITA, but not being able to stop it will ruin your day, not to mention other driver's

nickd

All I know is the 1970 Two barrel I'm using takes off like a maniac with a 1975 455 stock except true duals

69HO43

Hoses, wires, belts...replace them all. Period. If you don't, you will likely be soon anyway.

I advise heavily against pressure washing the engine unless you take excellent precautions on keeping water out of electrical stuff and the inside of the engine. Don't open the hood and start blasting away, or your car will be sitting there in that spot for some time while you dry out everything and drain the water/oil out of the engine.

As far as the rubber brake lines. Buy new ones. Just because they might look ok on the outside, doesn't mean they're intact on the inside. Likely it's 15 year old or older brake fluid, which has an affinity to absorb moisture. It's a good time to do a complete brake flush too.

A car that sits for 15 years is a car that's going to need a lot of attention just to make sure it's safe.

Rickman48

Gotta really disagree with the 2 vs. 4-barrel statement!
Not only will you pick-up performance, you'll pick-up MPG, with a Q-jet over a 2-barrel!
Smaller primaries = more velocity = better responce = less opening of the throttle!
More CFM when opening = more power, especially with 455 C.I.
Did this on a 350 back in the '70's - picked up 4 mpg + quite a bit in performance, then did duals, and gained more!!

MDchanic

Did it on a SBC 350 in 1982, lost some throttle response, gained no top-end power, mileage didn't seem to change (but the odometer never worked, and my foot was kinda heavy then ).

I'm willing to go for the "smaller primaries" argument (heck, I used it on my dad at the time), but if the motor can't use the extra CFM (and without a shift kit, that TH400 will shift around 4,500 RPM), then the added capacity won't translate to any gains.

I've got a lot of respect for the 2GC, and my original point was that in the case of a car that's been resurrected like Lazarus after fifteen years, it's better to run it for a while and get all the wrinkles smoothed out before changing things and making "improvements."

- Eric

Rickman48

But, I believe a '69 455 has at least 9 to 1 compression to take advantage of more CFM's - not like the 7.5 in the '80's.
We had good gas back then, too!

MDchanic

Good point.