dumb power steering belt question 72 cutlass
#2
Welcome to the site! There are adjustment bolts, but I don't know if I can describe them without looking at the pump! If someone else doesn't walk you through it first I'll try to get the details for you tomorrow evening. John
#3
The nut is above and behind the pulley.
In this picture, it's the rusty bolt visible against the backdrop of black-painted parts.
Look under there - you'll see (or feel) a curved hole, with a bolt somewhere along it, clamping the pump in place. Turn it with an open-end wrench.
- Eric
In this picture, it's the rusty bolt visible against the backdrop of black-painted parts.
Look under there - you'll see (or feel) a curved hole, with a bolt somewhere along it, clamping the pump in place. Turn it with an open-end wrench.
- Eric
#4
Eric, I thougth there was a bolt in the back that also needed to be loosened to move the pump.
One thing I am sure of, once the pump is loose resist the temptation to put a big screwdriver in between the pump and motor and reef on it to tighten the belt. If your not careful you can damage the pump reservoir. Don't ask me how I know that John
One thing I am sure of, once the pump is loose resist the temptation to put a big screwdriver in between the pump and motor and reef on it to tighten the belt. If your not careful you can damage the pump reservoir. Don't ask me how I know that John
#7
Oh. Yeah. Duh.
But it's got to be lined up, which is easy with the belt off, but with it on, I found it easier to just grab an open-end wrench.
- Eric
#8
Not a dumb question at all!
Pump body (reservoir) will damage easily!
I think there is a metal tab on the front so you can pry the tab against the pump SHAFT to tension it. Get the belt snug but not tight. 1/2" downwards deflection when belt is depressed with your finger. Then tighten bolts.
Tension alternator belt afterwards.
Pump body (reservoir) will damage easily!
I think there is a metal tab on the front so you can pry the tab against the pump SHAFT to tension it. Get the belt snug but not tight. 1/2" downwards deflection when belt is depressed with your finger. Then tighten bolts.
Tension alternator belt afterwards.
#10
There were some pullys that don't have holes in the front, if you have one of those Eric's suggestion of an open end wrench works well.
In 1972 it was still metal, but it dents/crushes easily. As the others said be careful when you put tension on it.
John
In 1972 it was still metal, but it dents/crushes easily. As the others said be careful when you put tension on it.
John
#13
There is some bad info in this thread.
First, NO Olds V8 (prior to the Aurora) ever used a PS pump with a plastic reservoir.
Second, there are THREE fasteners that must be loosened to adjust the belt, two bolts behind the pulley and the one nut at the bottom rear of the pump.
Third, to properly tension the belt, look down between the pulley and the front of the pump. You will see a tab on the front bracket that is parallel to the nose of the pump. Use a large screwdriver or a pry bar to lever between this tab and the nose of the pump. This is the only way to properly tension the belt without crushing the thin metal reservoir.
First, NO Olds V8 (prior to the Aurora) ever used a PS pump with a plastic reservoir.
Second, there are THREE fasteners that must be loosened to adjust the belt, two bolts behind the pulley and the one nut at the bottom rear of the pump.
Third, to properly tension the belt, look down between the pulley and the front of the pump. You will see a tab on the front bracket that is parallel to the nose of the pump. Use a large screwdriver or a pry bar to lever between this tab and the nose of the pump. This is the only way to properly tension the belt without crushing the thin metal reservoir.
#14
Power Steering belt:
Thank you for the information. I had no ideal how to find that adjustment bolt.
1971 Cutlass Supreme 350 with Air-conditioning.
My car is equipped with a double pulley on the PS-pump. This type of pulley does not have any access holes for a socket. So I used a wrench to access the adjusting bolt. I removed the alternator to make it easier to tighten the PS-pump belt.
In the first picture, I painted the bolt with whiteout to make it easier to see (72420.
In the second shot shows the placement of the 9/16 wrench and the screwdriver being used as a tightening lever between the shaft and the bracket tab (actually need a longer screwdriver, 7255).
I looked at the picture provided by MDchanic; it seems that on a 455 you have more room between the pump and the pulley than on a 350.
1971 Cutlass Supreme 350 with Air-conditioning.
My car is equipped with a double pulley on the PS-pump. This type of pulley does not have any access holes for a socket. So I used a wrench to access the adjusting bolt. I removed the alternator to make it easier to tighten the PS-pump belt.
In the first picture, I painted the bolt with whiteout to make it easier to see (72420.
In the second shot shows the placement of the 9/16 wrench and the screwdriver being used as a tightening lever between the shaft and the bracket tab (actually need a longer screwdriver, 7255).
I looked at the picture provided by MDchanic; it seems that on a 455 you have more room between the pump and the pulley than on a 350.
Last edited by Miles71; February 12th, 2012 at 03:00 PM. Reason: edit
#15
#16
#17
I have a wrench that I ground down a little thinner so as not to scratch anything. Service manual says to loosen the pressure hose to install the belt, but I find it much easier to just remove brace for a minute. Why disturb something that can start leaking.
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