No Start, Then Start
#1
No Start, Then Start
Today I took my 70 Cutlass out for a ride, stopped for breakfast then started her up, it ran fine but soon died then would not start (turned over fine), no pops-nothing. It was getting gas, coil good and getting 12 volts (tested positive terminal) Still no start. I called for a tow after several tries then gave it one last try and she started right up, cancelled tow. I drove home and it ran fine, I could not reproduce the problem. I checked all connections in the distributor all good. I could not reproduce the no start problem. Can a condensor fail abruptly and intermittently. I had a condensor fail in the past but the engine still started and ran but ran terrible. Points are good and they are clean. Also engine was still cold so it is not heat related.
Any ideas where else to look or test? car runs geat but something today caused a no spark situation.
Any ideas where else to look or test? car runs geat but something today caused a no spark situation.
#2
Assuming the engine cranks with the key? It's probably somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil. Next time it happens check for 12v at the coil. If you need to get it running you can use a jumper wire from the battery to the coil and it will start right up with the key.
#3
A bad condenser could do this.
If you go through the whole rest of the system and can't find anything, then I'd suspect the condenser. If all seems good, and you really want to find out, you can relocate the condenser to the outside of the coil (wire to (-) coil terminal, metal can to ground), carry a spare condenser, and be able to switch them in 2 minutes if the problem occurs again.
- Eric
If you go through the whole rest of the system and can't find anything, then I'd suspect the condenser. If all seems good, and you really want to find out, you can relocate the condenser to the outside of the coil (wire to (-) coil terminal, metal can to ground), carry a spare condenser, and be able to switch them in 2 minutes if the problem occurs again.
- Eric
#6
Day was dry, car ran fine just would not fire over after shutting off. While I was waiting for the tow I was trouble shooting. I cancelled the tow.
I checked for 12 volts on the + terminal of coil with key turned on, it was fine. My next step was to jump from the battery but It started. I may carry a length of wire with me. I think I'll replace the condensor, it isn't very old but the last one I had failed the same summer I installed it. Good idea about mounting the condensor.
I checked for 12 volts on the + terminal of coil with key turned on, it was fine. My next step was to jump from the battery but It started. I may carry a length of wire with me. I think I'll replace the condensor, it isn't very old but the last one I had failed the same summer I installed it. Good idea about mounting the condensor.
#7
New condensers, in general, suck.
In the old BMW motorcycle world, it is often found that an original 40 year old condenser is more reliable than a brand-new one.
I've had a few new ones, both German vehicles and GM, bad out of the box over the years.
- Eric
In the old BMW motorcycle world, it is often found that an original 40 year old condenser is more reliable than a brand-new one.
I've had a few new ones, both German vehicles and GM, bad out of the box over the years.
- Eric
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emarkay
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November 14th, 2005 09:13 PM