Small simple things that make a car run better & go faster
August 26th, 2010, 10:49 AM
#1
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Small simple things that make a car run better & go faster
I'm asking because I always hear about different tricks people use that don't cost alot!!!!
And I've got 2 races lined up Sat against some loud mouth Chebbie guys!!!
I wish u all could hear the things I've had to hear come out their mouths!!!
It's gotten me to the point of it no longer being FUN!!! I gotta shut these suckas up!!!!!
I love being the only Olds powered car out of around 20 guys in a close circle we race in!!!
Smh cause there's 4 mustangs!!! 1 even has a chevy motor?????
And I've got 2 races lined up Sat against some loud mouth Chebbie guys!!!
I wish u all could hear the things I've had to hear come out their mouths!!!
It's gotten me to the point of it no longer being FUN!!! I gotta shut these suckas up!!!!!
I love being the only Olds powered car out of around 20 guys in a close circle we race in!!!
Smh cause there's 4 mustangs!!! 1 even has a chevy motor?????
August 26th, 2010, 12:41 PM
#2
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,292
Comebacks to use on Chebby smart-asses:
"Shh. Hear that? That's a Chevrolet rusting out from under you"
"Somebody got a leaky faucet around here? Oh, that's just oil dripping outta that Chevrolet over there."
"Well, I reckon I need to ride to K-Mart to pick up some Chevy parts..."
"Put Chevy Rally wheels on my (fill in blank)? Why the hell would I want to do that? They look like *** even on a Chevrolet."
Get creative, hoss. The guy who can talk the best trash wins.
"Shh. Hear that? That's a Chevrolet rusting out from under you"
"Somebody got a leaky faucet around here? Oh, that's just oil dripping outta that Chevrolet over there."
"Well, I reckon I need to ride to K-Mart to pick up some Chevy parts..."
"Put Chevy Rally wheels on my (fill in blank)? Why the hell would I want to do that? They look like *** even on a Chevrolet."
Get creative, hoss. The guy who can talk the best trash wins.
August 26th, 2010, 01:16 PM
#4
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Lol!!!
Oh don't think I just stand there and listen to that stuff!!!
I speak my piece, but they'll hit me with something like, why do u think everybody else took their olds motors out and dropped chevys in!!! Cause they're all stupid, I tell them!!! Lol
and when I do get some good ones in it just gets another one involved!!! Ha ha!!!
Oh don't think I just stand there and listen to that stuff!!!
I speak my piece, but they'll hit me with something like, why do u think everybody else took their olds motors out and dropped chevys in!!! Cause they're all stupid, I tell them!!! Lol
and when I do get some good ones in it just gets another one involved!!! Ha ha!!!
August 26th, 2010, 01:29 PM
#5
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,289
The number one thing is to make sure the car is tuned up and running correctly. Make sure all filters are clean, gas is fresh, etc. Be sure the choke opens all the way and the advance mechanism is working properly. Be sure the plug wires are in good shape. Get all unnecessary crap out of the car. You'd be amazed at how much the stuff in the trunk weighs. Loosen the fan belts before the run, but be sure to tighten them back up as soon as the run is over. Run with the windows closed to minimize drag. Keep tires properly inflated (hint: street tires are NOT wrinklewall). If anything, inflate the fronts to the maximum allowed on the sidewall (usually 35 psi these days). If you have drum brakes, back off on the adjuster screws, but again, be aware of the reduced braking and be sure to readjust before driving on the road. Be sure the front end is aligned properly so there's no drag and be sure the front wheel bearings are adjusted properly. Run with only a partial tank of gas. Don't make it so empty that you uncover the pickup at launch, but don't carry any extra weight unless you need it for traction.
Again, don't expect miracles from these items. If you're lucky, they'll make a couple of tenths of difference.
August 26th, 2010, 02:51 PM
#8
1970 442
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 238
If you have any traction problems, you can shim your front sway bar. Simply undo the front bolt on each of the sway bar u-shaped brackets (attached to the chassis), gently pry or spread the bracket with a screwdriver, insert a washer, then put the bolt back through and tighten it down. That will give you some front end travel while not affecting your cornering ability too much.
August 26th, 2010, 03:22 PM
#9
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Lol!!
I don't think I gave enough power to have traction problems!!! Smh!!
Stock motor with a intake, carb, & headers!!!
22311540.jpg
I don't think I gave enough power to have traction problems!!! Smh!!
Stock motor with a intake, carb, & headers!!!
22311540.jpg
August 26th, 2010, 05:25 PM
#12
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August 26th, 2010, 08:18 PM
#14
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Those throttle return springs look kinda weak. You may want to use an old valve spring, lol.
Air bags in your rear coil springs are great for traction on the street or strip. 15-20lbs in the right one and 5lbs on the left should be a good starting point.
Since you removed the AC compressor I'd think about moving the alternator over to the right side at some point. With the PS and Alt pulling from one side like that you'll wear out that WP early.
A good general tune up and lighter springs in the distributor will help. Maybe even slightly more initial timing too, 2 - 4 degreesish.
A larger air cleaner couldn't hurt, 14 x 3 or 14 x 4 if you have the height.
Every hundred pounds is roughly a tenth of a second so remove the spare tire, dead bodies in the trunk, etc.
Air bags in your rear coil springs are great for traction on the street or strip. 15-20lbs in the right one and 5lbs on the left should be a good starting point.
Since you removed the AC compressor I'd think about moving the alternator over to the right side at some point. With the PS and Alt pulling from one side like that you'll wear out that WP early.
A good general tune up and lighter springs in the distributor will help. Maybe even slightly more initial timing too, 2 - 4 degreesish.
A larger air cleaner couldn't hurt, 14 x 3 or 14 x 4 if you have the height.
Every hundred pounds is roughly a tenth of a second so remove the spare tire, dead bodies in the trunk, etc.
August 27th, 2010, 09:49 AM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 501
Malibu & a LS Monte, both have close to the same setup!!
350 010 blocks with the normal bolt ons, 373 posi rearends!!!
I've already raped (beat) the guy with the Montes Cutlass!!! Lol
I got alot of stuff in my trunk!!! 3f39e653.jpg
350 010 blocks with the normal bolt ons, 373 posi rearends!!!
I've already raped (beat) the guy with the Montes Cutlass!!! Lol
I got alot of stuff in my trunk!!! 3f39e653.jpg
August 27th, 2010, 11:22 AM
#20
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August 27th, 2010, 12:06 PM
#21
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Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta
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Yeah, and they don't help a lot either...
The number one thing is to make sure the car is tuned up and running correctly. Make sure all filters are clean, gas is fresh, etc. Be sure the choke opens all the way and the advance mechanism is working properly. Be sure the plug wires are in good shape. Get all unnecessary crap out of the car. You'd be amazed at how much the stuff in the trunk weighs. Loosen the fan belts before the run, but be sure to tighten them back up as soon as the run is over. Run with the windows closed to minimize drag. Keep tires properly inflated (hint: street tires are NOT wrinklewall). If anything, inflate the fronts to the maximum allowed on the sidewall (usually 35 psi these days). If you have drum brakes, back off on the adjuster screws, but again, be aware of the reduced braking and be sure to readjust before driving on the road. Be sure the front end is aligned properly so there's no drag and be sure the front wheel bearings are adjusted properly. Run with only a partial tank of gas. Don't make it so empty that you uncover the pickup at launch, but don't carry any extra weight unless you need it for traction.
Again, don't expect miracles from these items. If you're lucky, they'll make a couple of tenths of difference.
The number one thing is to make sure the car is tuned up and running correctly. Make sure all filters are clean, gas is fresh, etc. Be sure the choke opens all the way and the advance mechanism is working properly. Be sure the plug wires are in good shape. Get all unnecessary crap out of the car. You'd be amazed at how much the stuff in the trunk weighs. Loosen the fan belts before the run, but be sure to tighten them back up as soon as the run is over. Run with the windows closed to minimize drag. Keep tires properly inflated (hint: street tires are NOT wrinklewall). If anything, inflate the fronts to the maximum allowed on the sidewall (usually 35 psi these days). If you have drum brakes, back off on the adjuster screws, but again, be aware of the reduced braking and be sure to readjust before driving on the road. Be sure the front end is aligned properly so there's no drag and be sure the front wheel bearings are adjusted properly. Run with only a partial tank of gas. Don't make it so empty that you uncover the pickup at launch, but don't carry any extra weight unless you need it for traction.
Again, don't expect miracles from these items. If you're lucky, they'll make a couple of tenths of difference.
August 27th, 2010, 12:38 PM
#23
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Location: Granite City, IL
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August 27th, 2010, 12:48 PM
#24
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Location: Granite City, IL
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Hahahaha
August 27th, 2010, 03:40 PM
#27
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August 27th, 2010, 03:56 PM
#28
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OMG, cold air induction.
Big 14" air filter. Think about using the stock 4 bbl air cleaner base to divert underhood heat away from carburetor, at the very least. Or use the whole thing, and use dryer ducting to bring cold air in from the front of the grille.
Phenolic carb spacer.
600 cfm Holley is too small for drag racing a 350 IMO. A750 will always pick up 1-2 tenths if it has even a little bit of converter.
Make sure you have full throttle.
Ditch that direct drive FAN. Find a clutch fan that is totally shot (loose), or get an electric fan.
It may run warmer, but that alone will find you 20 hp from parasitic drag.
Cool the fuel.
Insulate the fuel line from heat. Use a heat sink on the line.
You did block the heat risers, didn't you?
Play with the tune/jetting/timing AFTER you do this basic stuff.
I could go on for days.
Jim
Big 14" air filter. Think about using the stock 4 bbl air cleaner base to divert underhood heat away from carburetor, at the very least. Or use the whole thing, and use dryer ducting to bring cold air in from the front of the grille.
Phenolic carb spacer.
600 cfm Holley is too small for drag racing a 350 IMO. A750 will always pick up 1-2 tenths if it has even a little bit of converter.
Make sure you have full throttle.
Ditch that direct drive FAN. Find a clutch fan that is totally shot (loose), or get an electric fan.
It may run warmer, but that alone will find you 20 hp from parasitic drag.
Cool the fuel.
Insulate the fuel line from heat. Use a heat sink on the line.
You did block the heat risers, didn't you?
Play with the tune/jetting/timing AFTER you do this basic stuff.
I could go on for days.
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; August 27th, 2010 at 04:26 PM.
August 27th, 2010, 03:59 PM
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granite City, IL
Posts: 141
OMG, cold air induction.
Phenolic carb spacer.
600 cfm Holley is too small for drag racing a 350. A750 will always pick up 1-2 tenths.
Make sure you have full throttle.
Ditch that POS direct drive FAN. Find a clutch fan that is totally shot, or get an electric fan.
It may run warmer, but that alone will find you 20 hp.
I could go on for days.
Jim
Phenolic carb spacer.
600 cfm Holley is too small for drag racing a 350. A750 will always pick up 1-2 tenths.
Make sure you have full throttle.
Ditch that POS direct drive FAN. Find a clutch fan that is totally shot, or get an electric fan.
It may run warmer, but that alone will find you 20 hp.
I could go on for days.
Jim
August 28th, 2010, 06:51 AM
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Beachwood, NJ
Posts: 1,461
You want a fan that doesnt spin when the motor is cool, but locks up when the motor is hot. Thats why a clutch fan uses less power than a fixed fan. If your stock fan is squeeling, try spraying wd40 in where it spins, there's a bearing in there thats dry. Keep spining it till its worked in good. It will give you enough lubrication for the weekend races.
Also pull your vacuum advance hose off the distibutor and block it off. Then advance the timing to around 10-12 degrees initial timing. Take it for a ride. If it pings, back it off a little till it doesnt. This will give you WAY better throttle responce off the line!
Let us know how you make out!
Also pull your vacuum advance hose off the distibutor and block it off. Then advance the timing to around 10-12 degrees initial timing. Take it for a ride. If it pings, back it off a little till it doesnt. This will give you WAY better throttle responce off the line!
Let us know how you make out!
August 31st, 2010, 07:37 AM
#34
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Guys guys guys!!!!!!!!
I raped the LS Monte, but the Malibu beat me by a 1/2 car!!!!!!!!!
I'm not gone lie but I missed shift against the Malibu, I threw the column shift in N!!! Smh cause it cost me the race!!!!!
I raped the LS Monte, but the Malibu beat me by a 1/2 car!!!!!!!!!
I'm not gone lie but I missed shift against the Malibu, I threw the column shift in N!!! Smh cause it cost me the race!!!!!
August 31st, 2010, 08:10 AM
#36
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Location: Beachwood, NJ
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Didnt blow the trans or the rear apart but the rear tires locked up and stalled the motor. After that I just raced it in Drive. No chances of messing up like that. Next time you may want to try leaving it in Drive and seeing how you do?
August 31st, 2010, 12:29 PM
#39
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August 31st, 2010, 12:36 PM
#40
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