dallasite21

OK, so I have had the engine out of the car for 3 weeks and now have it stripped down as far as I am going to take it, but I just wanted to ask a few questions about things I should change out or replace that are very very simple to do. So far I plan to do the following

Replace:

Fuel Pump
Water Pump
Oil Pump
Oil Pan Gasket
Water Pump & Timing Cover Gasket
Timing Chain & Both Gears
Intake Manifold Gasket
Oil Filter Gasket


I am also going to clean the engine and trans real good and give it some fresh new paint. I dont want to touch the heads or valves or any of that stuff, but is there any other seals, gaskets etc that are fairly simple to replace that should be done whill I have the engine out.

Also, I have an old set of headers that I bought a couple of months ago. I want to put them on and put the engine back in with the new headers on... Can that be done or do ethey have to be installed from the bottom? Also, are the headers even worth the trouble. I keep hearing arguments both ways. Here are some pics as well.

70 cutlass s

Your list looks pretty good. I would go ahead and change out the rear main seal too. Since your planing on replacing the oil pump you might consider looking at the main and rod bearings to see what kind of wear they have on them and take a look at the crank.

I would look at the freeze out plugs. Chance is they are ok but since you have the engine out I would take a real good look at them.

Wiring for the engine look it over really good also before you put the engine back in.

Yeah and also I would change out the front seal in the transmission and flush the tq converter and replace the fluid in it.

joe_padavano

And of course, at that point, you're pretty much just a set of head gaskets away from a complete engine rebuild...

The MIGHTASWELLS will getcha every time...

don71

I'm going to suggest to leave the headers for another day.......its not gonna make much difference right now. Concentrate on the job at hand.

True....you can do the headers right now and some will say its the time to do it, but I'm saying.....wait. There is more to it.

You did'nt specifically mention the crank seal in the timing chain cover, so I thought I would mention it now. If your crank has a groove worn in it from the old seal, get a Felpro "speedy sleeve".

And don't forget to re-install the oil slinger before you put the timing cover back on.

joe_padavano

I'm going to suggest that now IS the time to install the headers. Lay them in the engine compartment while the engine is out. Lower the engine nearly into position. Bolt on headers. Finish engine installation. This is by far the easiest way to install headers.

Don L/442

This is how I did mine and worked well. Be sure you relocate brake proportioning valve for clearance.It's your call.(MIGHTASWELL)

gearheads78

You know a few more bolts you could have the body off Parrish

Bluevista

Those core plugs can rust through or start leaking at anytime, I agree it would be a real good idea to replace them now, it's a real bear later.
I would be wanting to pull those heads so bad, just to see what I could see, like the bear that went over the mountain.
No large deal doing head gaskets, you need a torque wrench to do the intake anyway...Mightaswell.

70 cutlass s

Yeah while I was gone I started thinking about suggesting that he rebuild the engine since he's just a handful of bolt away from it.

Instead of wishing later that it was done when it was out and have to go back pull the engine out again.

I agree with Joe about the headers too.

Dave Siltman

Now that the motor is out, I would suggest a complete rebuild. The hard work is 1/2 done and the headers (provided they are correct for your application) are a whole easier to install while re-installing the newly rebuilt motor. The money and time invested will be well worth it. A stock rebuild should be in the $1500.00 range and a little more money spent in the right places can net some good power gains. A slight upgrade in the cam and valetrain (no more money than new stock replacements) and a decent aluminum intake ($200.00) along with your headers could easily net an extra 50 horsepower. Make sure you get that carb freshened up as well and have it calibrated for any mods. Everyone that is telling you to DO IT probably has experienced just what you are thinking--I know I have. My motto is: "DO IT NICE- NOT TWICE".....

oldsdroptop

I could have that motor completely tore down in an hour with a high quality 1/2 drive air gun and a 120 psi 60 gallon 6 HP air compressor. And a set of good quality hardened sockets ( I like snap on or proto my self, personal preference) Might as well go BIG or go HOME. I agree with Joe and the guys. go for it!!....Oldsdroptop

BOOWAH

When you paint the engine, please don't use that hideous bright gold paint! I found that the Eastwood Hitemp Paint is the closest match to the original "mustard" color. They have a new selection of ceramic engine enamels that claim to be an exact match to the factory paint. I bought a quart for touchups and I couldn't tell the difference!

dallasite21

I totally agree with you guys on the engine rebuild, but I just dont have the money to do that right now. I have spent all of my discretioanry mony on this car since i got it and I am tapped out. Pulling the engine out was really about me taking the next step in learning about engines and cars in general. I am almost tempted to take the heads off, but i just dont have the expertise to gauranty that i can put it back together right. My biggest fear is screwing something up to the point the car wont run. At least right now i know it runs and i have not dissambled anything that will change that. Now that I know what it takes to pull the engine I dont have a problem pulling it out again if need be. Ill just chalk this up as a lost opportunity.

70 cutlass s

I have an idea. Instead of spending money on this engine right now. Find a used engine that runs and put it in your car for now. Leaving your engine on the stand. Then when you have the money, rebuild it.

71supreme

Dallasite, I agree with you. I am in a similar spot with my olds. I look at doing some of these things over as experience. The more I do them, the more proficient I become at them. The "while you're at it" folks are mostly more experienced, and/or well financed.

As long as you don't put a bunch of miles on your car every year, change the gaskets, painter up & toss her back in, then take her back out next year, or the year after.

From what I have read here you may find things that you want to repaint in a years time, or even less due to burning or discolored paint, or even paint not being as resistant to heat or chemicals as you thought.

Sometimes you only want to do something once, and sometimes you need the schooling the experience has to offer, so doing it again is less of a chore, and more of a learning experience.

Keep us posted!

~Mike

dallasite21

Thanks Supreme71... I think we are on the same page. 70cutlass S... I am also on board with your idea, however I think I would rather put my engine back in and buy another engine and have it rebuilt. That way I can search for a 1968 350 with the higher Horsepower rating. My current engine is out of a 72'. I have located this one on ebay and I am interested in... What do you guys think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/oldsm...mZ150425518457

gearheads78

Too many small blocks local to have one shipped in. I have seen many out of running cars on craigslist 250.00 and less over the last 6 months.

dallasite21

Thanks Gearhead... On another note.. I did not compression check my engine before I pulled it out, but the whole reason I even got to the point of pulling it was becasue it jumped time. I was driving down the alley doing about 10 miles an hour. I gave it a little gas.. it reved, then died and wouldnt start again. After stetting the engine back to TDC I looked at the rotor and it was pointing at 2 oclock instead of 5, so I assumed it jumped time. When I took the timing cover off, the chain was so loose I dont know how it ever started in the first place. My question is would the car jumping time cause any damage to heads, valves, etc? I have been told that it wouldnt on the olds 350, especially at the low speed I was going when it died. Any thoughts?

Lady72nRob71

The only thing I failed to see on your list that was not mentioned (did not see elsewhere) were valve guide seals. I have to change these in my old Furd...
You will be able to assess their condition once the valve covers are off.

Use felpro permadry plus valve cover gaskets - they seal better than cork.

I do not think that this is an "interference" engine, so probably no damage was done when the timing jumped.