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Hey all, I am beginning to think about an eventual engine refresh. I will do all the general wrenching that I am able to do, and outsource the machining, balancing, etc. I'm starting to look at engine hoists. I have a coupon for a HF 2Ton for $179 that I am about to pull the trigger on. However, I've seen some comments that the apparatus is not big/long enough to reach into the A Bodies' bays without getting close to tipping. It looks like other decent units can be had anywhere between $300 and $600, with several nods toward t
I buy very little that I can't lay my hands on first. It didn't show length of legs and the spread. No jib length is shown either. As the jib is extended, your lift capacity diminishes. Wheel sizes are important, the bigger, the easier they roll around. Are any of the wheels lockable ? You'll need a leveling beam to hang from the hook.
I just sold my HF 2 ton unit. It will do the job just fine. The only minor issue is that when loaded with an engine, it can be a bit unweildy, and stubborn to roll. That being said, it was very sturdy and never even hinted that it wanted to tip. You definitely want to use a tilting mechanism if you plan on installing the motor back into the car with the tranny attached.
I just sold my HF 2 ton unit. It will do the job just fine. The only minor issue is that when loaded with an engine, it can be a bit unweildy, and stubborn to roll. That being said, it was very sturdy and never even hinted that it wanted to tip. You definitely want to use a tilting mechanism if you plan on installing the motor back into the car with the tranny attached.
One thing that would be handy, if they had a swivel so you could twist instead of pulling the hoist. Would require a 3rd leg tho
I have had a HF one ton unit that folds up for many years [20 ?] with no problems. Used it to pull engine and trans together from 67 A bodies with no problems. As said, sometimes hard to get moving or turn but other than that nothing. Very handy when installing heads or cast iron intakes.
Thanks guys, this is just the input I was looking for. Definitely some good Garage Knowledge regarding movement and usage! It is also heartening that the HF unit, at a great cost, should fit the bill. In my searches yesterday, I came across a post in which a fellow stated that he used a large adjustable wrench literally on one wheel to facilitate fine movements/adjustments, especially with the lift loaded. I don't recall whether it was on CO or another site. Thanks also for the suggestion of the load-leveler. I found a couple HF coupons on the web for two different versions, with the coupons good through the end of April. I do a lot of tool purchasing through CL and other online sources, so will be checking the ads there as well. Thanks again! Keep any other good ideas and info flowing; I'm sure other CO members could benefit as well!
I have 2 of the old, non-break down ones. They are ok. I bought both of them used- the second one at a auction for $40.- cheap enough. But the bad thing about them is they require a lot of room to store cuz they don't break down. I would pay more for a break down lift if I was to do it over.
I bought one from HF and couldn't be happier with it. I've puled and installed multiple engine and trans combos with it with no problems. It has 6 casters under it all 6 pivot so it's easy to move in any direction. The long legs will pivot up to the handles for storage in a surprisingly small space. If there is any issue with it al, it is that the wheels are a little too large in diameter so that the legs will not roll under he engine crossmember with the engine in the car. Having to elevate the front of the car is a very small price to pay in my opinion.
The main engine picker I use is a China unit. It has an 8ton ram. I made an 8 inch longer box tubing to extend the reach and to balance it out I stacked a set of "J" heads, the top one has an exhaust manifold still bolted on. The "counter weights are bungee corded on. The extra length worked well pulling/installing engine and transmission in 1971 Delta. I have a heavy duty swivel/tilling fixture that works way better than those engine tillers, imo.
The main engine picker I use is a China unit. It has an 8ton ram. I made an 8 inch longer box tubing to extend the reach and to balance it out I stacked a set of "J" heads, the top one has an exhaust manifold still bolted on. The "counter weights are bungee corded on. The extra length worked well pulling/installing engine and transmission in 1971 Delta. I have a heavy duty swivel/tilling fixture that works way better than those engine tillers, imo.
After using a bunch of hoists, I certainly have opinions.....
Ram: I made fun of my friend for getting an air-assist ram, but it is actually super helpful for setting up the lift. It causes the boom to bounce so you don't want to use the air for lifting an engine out of the bay. Really the only problem you'll have to watch out for is a ram leaking. It's impossible to get rebuild kits for these rams now, so consider them to be expendable purchases. I learned the hard way that they can freeze and crack the housing.
Balance: Never had a problem with balance. Just assemble the thing correctly.
Knock down vs non: Non-issue to me. Just whatever you prefer. Really depends on how much you'll use it.
Movement: You have to use the hoist on clean pavement. All of them are comparable, just make sure none of the wheels are seized. You have to man-handle any unit, especially if you have the engine and trans on it.
And the big one:
Boom: All common hoists are short for the A-body. Some are worse than others. Look for the boom length spec on anything you look at. I have to remove the bumper and grill assembly, and most hoists will still hit the point of the core support on the 71/72. So, if I've got time, or the car is a work in progress, then having your own hoist can be handy. Also good for moving junk around. However, when I want the job to go quickly and easily, I get the rental "knock down" hoists from the local tool rental place. Every town has companies like this. Big companies like Sunbelt also have them. Usually $40/day, super easy to assemble and haul around. The key is the ram is mounted real high, so it clears the core support. That gives you much more reach.
Non-hoist: If you're installing the engine and transmission together, then a good load leveler bar is a must. The HF one is trash. Don't bother. I like the OTC 4305 one, especially after I replaced the handle roll pin with a removable bolt and welded a nut onto the end so I can use an impact to turn it.
The short one is from a Habor Freight one ton picker (4 ton hydraulic cylinder) the middle length is from a two ton picker (8ton cylinder) the home made extender is 8 inches longer than the middle. I lined the bolt holes up for visual difference of the 3.
Cylinder heads are my "counter weight." With engine and transmission it's very stable. The swivel is an industrial swivel/tilt rated @ 5000 lbs.
Can't recommend a specific unit but I bought this 2 ton knockdown one probably 40 years ago at some warehouse club. I like it because both legs and boom are adjustable to fit different weights as well as vehicles. Its heavily constructed, easy to assemble and use. That's a Pontiac 400 plus trans in the first pic and a fully dressed Cadillac 500 in the second. Definitely get the knockdown unless you have a big shop space!
Non-hoist: If you're installing the engine and transmission together, then a good load leveler bar is a must.The HF one is trash. Don't bother. I like the OTC 4305 one, especially after I replaced the handle roll pin with a removable bolt and welded a nut onto the end so I can use an impact to turn it.
I bought an engine hoist from Sam's Club a couple of decades ago. Made by a company (Ex-Cel) that isn't in business any more, at least I couldn't find any trace of them when my hydraulic ram took a dump. The thing is built like a tank, big enough in every dimension, and USA-made except for the ram. Rated for "2 tons" but the framework is strong enough for far more than that.
Some day, I will see another one on Craigslist, and I WILL buy it, and have two of them. Mine now has a Chinese piece of crap air-hydraulic 8-ton ram because the original hydraulic failed after ~15 years (maybe more) and having lifted...ummmm...well above rated capacity. Cadillac 500, TH425 trans. Full suspension, brakes, tires, and enough frame to hold it all together--and the boom at FULL extension.
When I moved my shop, I needed one hoist to lift crap onto the trailer, and another on the other end to lift crap off the trailer. I bought a piece-of-**** ALL CHINESE junk hoist from Craigslist. It's 2/3 the size of my "good" lift. THIS is the dirty secret of engine hoists: If you make the thing small enough, 2-ton capacity is easy. Hanging two tons off the end of a tiny boom is easy, two tons off the end of a proper, long boom is much harder. Leverage, and all. Short Story: Cheap Chinese hoists universally suffer from Little ***** syndrome. They just DO NOT stick out far enough to do anyone any good.
The piece-of-***** Chinese, cheap-junk crane was adequate--but not more than adequate--for lifting most everything else. It felt flimsy under load. The single advantage is that when unloaded--or lightly loaded--it swivels and rolls easier than the big-dog Ex-Cel. I didn't even try to lift the Caddy/frame off the trailer. We connected ramps, and rolled the two-wheel mess down the ramps to get it off the trailer.
I bought an engine hoist from Sam's Club a couple of decades ago. Made by a company (Ex-Cel) that isn't in business any more, at least I couldn't find any trace of them when my hydraulic ram took a dump. The thing is built like a tank, big enough in every dimension, and USA-made except for the ram. Rated for "2 tons" but the framework is strong enough for far more than that.
Some day, I will see another one on Craigslist, and I WILL buy it, and have two of them. Mine now has a Chinese piece of crap air-hydraulic 8-ton ram because the original hydraulic failed after ~15 years (maybe more) and having lifted...ummmm...well above rated capacity. Cadillac 500, TH425 trans. Full suspension, brakes, tires, and enough frame to hold it all together--and the boom at FULL extension.
When I moved my shop, I needed one hoist to lift crap onto the trailer, and another on the other end to lift crap off the trailer. I bought a piece-of-**** ALL CHINESE junk hoist from Craigslist. It's 2/3 the size of my "good" lift. THIS is the dirty secret of engine hoists: If you make the thing small enough, 2-ton capacity is easy. Hanging two tons off the end of a tiny boom is easy, two tons off the end of a proper, long boom is much harder. Leverage, and all. Short Story: Cheap Chinese hoists universally suffer from Little ***** syndrome. They just DO NOT stick out far enough to do anyone any good.
The piece-of-***** Chinese, cheap-junk crane was adequate--but not more than adequate--for lifting most everything else. It felt flimsy under load. The single advantage is that when unloaded--or lightly loaded--it swivels and rolls easier than the big-dog Ex-Cel. I didn't even try to lift the Caddy/frame off the trailer. We connected ramps, and rolled the two-wheel mess down the ramps to get it off the trailer.
Schurkey
I purchased one of those in 1992
The heaviest thing of known weight it lifted was 3500lbs
I would guess it has lifted more... LOL
I purchased a hydraulic ram that lifted on both on the up and down stroke in the 1990's and wore that one out. I put the original ram back on it still works great
I drilled a hole through the top of the hoist and boom to put a pin through... ******* buddy and his kid would pull the handle to watch the boom "shoot " out
I also have a stack of cast iron olds intakes towards the back for ballast, That way you do not need to extend the lower legs as far. I did manage to tip mine over once.... NOT GOOD
If you see one of these for sale buy IT
Cheers
brian
Last edited by 11971four4two; April 14th, 2019 at 07:42 PM.
that ex-cel looks like a beast ! mine is from tractor supply 199.00 model i did put an extension boom on it for a little longer reach and as stated its a good idea to have a counter balance .i dont routinely change motors so mine has done the job and im happy with it .
For my engine out project I looked at the HF unit but ended up with an AC Delco branded one from O'Reilly's. Slightly better than the HF unit but more $.
The A body cars are so long in the nose the hoist was hard against my bumper- put a rubber donut on it to protect it. Did not remove the trans with engine, removed it afterwards using hoist.
Also bought a load leveler, really helped since I did all this solo except for hood removal.
I needed a hoist which would break down, I just shoved it under the car for now until I'm ready to install the engine.
I removed the core support to restore it after the fact and will keep it removed and drive the whole engine/trans back in like a torpedo with the CS removed.
I cannot trust these smaller hoists
to high lift a 455/TH400 over the core support.
2 things quality and the ability to fold. It is a pain in the A$$ having to take mine apart to make room. Years ago I bought a thin frail piece of... I had to toss that one after a few uses.
I almost bought one a couple of weeks ago to yank my engine. My friend close by in Spiro managed to borrow one for me. It was loose as a goose and swayed like a drunken sailor on a Saturday night. Had the car on jack stands, it was downright scary for the wife and I to maneuver the thing to get the engine out. I had my buddy come over to help get the engine back in using the wife as ballast weight to keep it from tipping. Fun times... NOT
Right-on. When reading your original post I thought it was funny because I've done this and it isn't a pretty sight - darn near comical yet scary. Watching folks stand on one end, maneuvering the hoist/lift, trying to get everything balanced - a real treat it is not.
April 13th, 2019, 05:58 PM
