Lost trunk key - code from tumbler?
#1
Lost trunk key - code from tumbler?
Helping a relative, and am trying to get a trunk key made to replace one that was lost. Is it possible to get a key code from the removed trunk tumbler? I’m not sure how I get the tumbler removed from the lock housing assembly without a key.
I could remove the glove box lock if that makes it easier, but that seemed like a bit of a process as well.
The application is a ‘73 cutlass, if that makes a difference. Thanks!
I could remove the glove box lock if that makes it easier, but that seemed like a bit of a process as well.
The application is a ‘73 cutlass, if that makes a difference. Thanks!
#3
Not in the 1973 model year. The original trunk key would have been an "H" blank. The only way to remove the cylinder from the housing to inspect the tumblers is to destroy that stainless cap that is crimped over the top of the assembly. Replacements are available. PM me if you want more info, as I can do this for you and make a new key.
#5
Joe"s way is by far the best but a good locksmith can make a key by using blue dkyem (sp) and a clean new blank. By inserting the blank he will be able to see where the tumblers mark the blank , file those spots and with repeated attempts cut your key. I had this done for my 55 a number of years ago and it still works well. The hard part is to find a old world smith that still does this work..... Tedd
PS. The best advice is don't lose your keys.
PS. The best advice is don't lose your keys.
#6
Joe"s way is by far the best but a good locksmith can make a key by using blue dkyem (sp) and a clean new blank. By inserting the blank he will be able to see where the tumblers mark the blank , file those spots and with repeated attempts cut your key. I had this done for my 55 a number of years ago and it still works well. The hard part is to find a old world smith that still does this work..... Tedd
PS. The best advice is don't lose your keys.
PS. The best advice is don't lose your keys.
I understand that, but be aware that the original keys have discrete cuts with a specific dimensions and angles. Frankly, removing the stainless cap takes a couple of minutes, at which point you look at the tumblers (which are numbered) and cut a key to match. That's likely a lot faster and cheaper than the cut-and-try method, and definitely gives you a better key when you're done. I've got the Curtis key cutter tool that the factory used to punch new keys.
#7
Thanks guys. When the stainless surround is pried off, can the assembly be restored to like-original condition? Is it any easier to work with the glove box lock if there's no key?
An old school locksmith figured out my keys for the H/O because they were missing, and I never figured out how they actually did it... gave them a door lock and trunk lock and got keys back later that day. Hard to find those resources anymore.
Joe, I'll drop you a line when I get a chance. Thanks for the info!
An old school locksmith figured out my keys for the H/O because they were missing, and I never figured out how they actually did it... gave them a door lock and trunk lock and got keys back later that day. Hard to find those resources anymore.
Joe, I'll drop you a line when I get a chance. Thanks for the info!
#8
Thanks guys. When the stainless surround is pried off, can the assembly be restored to like-original condition? Is it any easier to work with the glove box lock if there's no key?
An old school locksmith figured out my keys for the H/O because they were missing, and I never figured out how they actually did it... gave them a door lock and trunk lock and got keys back later that day. Hard to find those resources anymore.
Joe, I'll drop you a line when I get a chance. Thanks for the info!
An old school locksmith figured out my keys for the H/O because they were missing, and I never figured out how they actually did it... gave them a door lock and trunk lock and got keys back later that day. Hard to find those resources anymore.
Joe, I'll drop you a line when I get a chance. Thanks for the info!
#9
This was my thought as well, or maybe I misunderstand the issue. Any '71 and up GM I've owned or worked on over the years had 2 keys. One square key for the ignition and 1 round key for the doors, trunk and glove box.
#11
OK, I understand. It's been 38 years since I had my '71 Lemans. So the '73 must be the same as the prior years, another difference I didn't know about in 73-77 grouping.
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