brandon reynolds

oldcutlass

oFor ignition parts (points, condenser, cap, rotor, and 7mm wires) I like to use Standard Motor Products (Blue Streak). I use points for a Vette the rest for stock Olds. For spark plugs Autolite, AC, or NGK. You can go with Rockauto or make a trip to your local auto parts store.

70Post

Brandon - Go to a local NAPA Auto Parts store and get the PREMIUM Napa/Echlin brand cap and rotor. The cap is the shiny blackish finish similar to the originals and has brass instead of aluminum contacts in it. The rotor is also a better piece compared to cheap replacement rotors.

Haven't ever looked into plug wires to see if there's a decent black 7mm set made that at least looks similar to the originals with black regular looking boots, etc (ie - as an alternative to the more expensive repro wire sets).

Looking at RockAuto - the AC/Delco "Professional" plug wires 9188W don't look bad if the pic is accurate....silicone wires that appear to be black. You could change out the boots that go into the cap if you wanted a more "stock" look......looks like the wires have right angle dist cap boots and the factory used straight boots there.

shiftbyear

Brandon, I've always used Accel points, very high quality. The 32oz. kit will give you stable fire up to 6500 rpm. I shifted my big block at 6000 rpm and never missed a beat. Their caps and rotors are extremely good. Shop around because prices can vary widely from ebay, amazon, summit, jegs, ect. A good curve kit with bronze bushing will make tuning fun. Make sure your distributor doesn't have shaft play it will screw up you settings. Best of luck with your Cutlass.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...g/applications

shiftbyear

Accel points kit GM, cap and rotor.

brandon reynolds

Fun71

Back when I worked at NAPA the Echlin performance points were made by Accel. Not sure if it's still the same but you could ask the store manager if they are. Those are what I used in my car for the many years it had the points distributor and as said, they were good for 5800 RPM in my engine with no points bounce.

RetroRanger

shiftbyear

The bushing limits the amount of mechanical advance in the distributor. The factory used rubber (I think) which disintegrates and sometimes falls out. By limiting travel with the brass bushing you can add more initial timing and make the engine idle better and respond quicker. Total timing can be more easily maintained around 36-38. I never ran a vacuum advance (personal preference). Testing different combinations of springs, I was able to get the best performance without pinging. A dial timing light is a great tool to have when doing this, along with a dwell/tach. Search youtube for distributor curving, total timing, although some videos relate to aftermarket distributors, the basics still apply. Good luck.

redoldsman

Go to ebay and buy the old genuine Delco/Remy ignition parts. The points will be in the foil wrapped box. You might pay a little more but you know you are not getting junk. I bought an extra set to carry as spares. I probably won't need them.