Craigs442

Hi all,

Thanks for your continued advise, My motor has 19,750 original miles on it but is 48 years old. My friends say to have the motor rebuilt so it is dependable. And the Transmission. What do you think, all of you have sooooo much more experience than myself. I happened into this Barn Find, I have always wanted a 442, now I have this one. Really I want a weekend driver that is fun.

Today I removed the original fuel tank, it has so much crud in the tank, The tank cap was off for I am guessing 39 years, the top of the tank looks new, the bottom is dirty but not bad, just a lot of debris and dead somethings, lots of bones in the tank. Anyway, I noticed the exhaust pipes are rotten and Holey. So I am putting in a new tank, vent valve and hose. I would like to go to 2.5 inch stainless exhaust using the factory exhaust manifolds. I am thinking headers to improve performance but am not sure. What do all of you think?

Factory manifolds or headers?

Last my interior Looks brand new, it just smells like a barn. DUH! How do I fix the smell issue? Thinking to replace the carpet, but it looks new, just stinks a bit. the Entire Interior looks newish. Automatic on the floor. Love that option. How to get it smelling right?

Craig

Tiberian Fiend

There's no sense in rebuilding the engine if it runs fine now.

oldcutlass

The biggest issue is all the rubber and plastic parts are dried out and probably need replacing. If the car really has that low mileage an engine and trans rebuild are probably not needed. Fluid and filter changes are a good idea. Your choice, headers will provide some horsepower gain but SS pipes are not necessary in my opinion. A good set of aluminized pipes with the mufflers of your choice will last you a lifetime.

stevengerard

leave dryer sheets in the car

swashbuckler67

For the smell you can get a ozone treatment or just purchase a inexpensive ozone generator for $70 on amazon. They work very well at eliminating odors.

Tiberian Fiend

Or just leave the windows down and let it air out for a few weeks. Better yet, drive it around with the windows down.

Sugar Bear

"What do all of you think?"

If it was mine, with 19,000 miles, I would not allow anyone to "rebuild" it unless something truly needs rebuilding. My goal would be to keep it as original as possible in every respect only changing things that are 100% reversible. Headers, no. New dual exhaust sure, it is needed and be aware that stainless sounds slightly different.

Most importantly prepare it to be started after sitting so long...a new battery, gas and just starting it can cause a lot of damage. Be patient, soak the cylinders, turn it over by hand numerous times, change the oil and filter, fill the filter with oil, disconnect the coil so it will not start and crank it with the starter to get oil moving after it turns freely by hand. After it runs change EVERY fluid in it. My $0.02.

Please post pics.

Best of luck!!! Enjoy it and have fun!!!

classicmuscle442

To get rid of smells use charcoal, not the easy light stuff. Any kind of charcoal works great, my new to me truck had a funky smell and after a couple weeks all good.

droldsmorland

All great advice, with exception of breaking open a 20K mile engine. 20K miles is one hell of a bunch of restraint on the original owner. Ya leave the engine alone. Whoever gave you that advice doesn't know shizit about this subject. At minimum give it a compression check just for sanity. The trans if its an auto is another story. It has soft parts in it that are likely not soft anymore. A trans refresh kit could be considered as it's not invasive and is undetectable. See how it behaves after changing the fluid and filter. If it shifts fine dont mess with it until absolutely needed. A stick trans only needs new gear oil.

Step 1...Get classic car insurance on it NOW. Agreed value policy. Have it professionally appraised then add 30-40K for insurance purposes. JC Taylor, Grundy, Hagarty etc don't insure with a regular daily driver insurance company.

Find a good old school mechanic. This isn't something you take into PepBoys...ever!

You should go through it and replace rubber items as needed.
Mandatory replacement of the tires.
Mandatory replacement of ALL 3 rubber brake lines. Flush a gallon of brake fluid through the system.
Flush/service all fluid systems including the fuel, rear end, cooling system (when you pull the heater core hoses to replace them flush the core separately) power steering, trans etc...
If the trans is an auto flush it and install a new filter then repeat after 100-500 miles. Use TCI or other high-quality fluid and filters. Install a new trans pan with the drain plug.
The radiator may need professional cleaning.
Re-gasket things as needed.
Clean and inspect and repack the front wheel bearings with new seals.
Inspect/Replace the belts, hoses, vacuum lines. Maybe the fuel pump. The carb likely needs a rebuild especially the accelerator pump cup. Services are available to restore a carb, (not a just rebuild).
Clean the engine positive and ground cables on both ends.

Remember this car is original once. Keep EVERYTHING you take off the car mentioned here. Even the hose clamps which your gona reuse. Have all components professionally rebuilt using the original cores. Never turn in your cores for core credit! These parts are date coded numbers matching and expensive to replace. Make sure whoever does the rebuilding knows this.
Take pictures of everything before disassembling for documentation for you and us.

Everything on this car is USA American issue, Keep it that way. Resist putting anything on it from a big box store and anything that is made in china!

The ignition system may need some attention, Maybe a tune-up or at minimum a check(wires in the distributor, Vac, and centrifugal advance mechanisms). USA high-quality points and condenser sets are available through the Corvette restoration supply houses. Anything else is offshore junk. Corvette Central, Ecklers, Mid America etc...Other Olds specific items are available through Fusick, Year One etc...

Clean and detail it as needed sticking with originality and replication of factory methods, procedures, and products in mind. Careful cleaning things as to not destroy factory stamps or marks etc...

You could pull the carpet out and replace it. Inspect the floors and maybe even find a build sheet. The carpet in where most of the smell could be coming from.
Pull the rubber mat from the trunk. I dont run one. They dont let the trunk breath. I keep my trunk open a bit all year round. I don't have rodent or climate concerns.

Store this car in a clean dry rodent free environment at all times. Consider a high-quality padded car cover.

Consider some theft deterrents. This is a wanted car so the crooks will be watching. Don't let it out of your direct line of vision.

Run ethanol free gas only, Use premixed coolant. Never add tap water to coolant only distilled. Use high Zinc oil. Hemmings sells it. Shell Rotella T still has zinc and additives are available to mix with conventional oil.

All of the fluids you change will need to be changed again after a few 100 miles to ensure nothing as far as dirt and varnish breaks free(if driving a low mile car is on your agenda?). To include the engine oil. Cheap insurance.

The most important part of all this IS.... WE ARE picture junkies. PICTURES, please!
Steve