Winter storage tips...
#1
Winter storage tips...
Just wondering if any of you Oldsmobilers store your cars outside for winter hibernation. I don't have a garage and the thought of renting a storage unit with the risk of critter infestation doesn't appeal to me. I already plan on buying a weatherproof car cover, but I was wondering what other steps I should take in preparation for putting my Supreme away for the season.
,Thanks,
Dave
,Thanks,
Dave
#2
I would rent a garage or storage unit or SOME kind of dry space just to get it out of the weather. Then, depending on where it ends up, you can pack it up as needed against any other threats.
Moisture is the enemy. Wherever it is, keep it dry, and be aware of condensation and the damage it can cause.
Moisture is the enemy. Wherever it is, keep it dry, and be aware of condensation and the damage it can cause.
#3
I store mine for the winter also, but you really should look into renting a storage unit. Like it was said above "moisture is the enemy". You could always place a trap or two in the unit, if that worries you. I always put a few boxes of drier sheets inside. In addition to keeping the car smelling nice while in storage, it will also (believe it or not) keep the rodents away. You will also want to spend 1-2 bucks on those aluminum roasting pans that can be picked up at any Walmart. Place them under the oil pan and the transmission. It's been my experience that cars that sit for more than a month or so, will start to leak fluids. This will help contain the mess. You will also want to pull the battery and throw it on a tender for the winter.
Lastly, and if you look through this site you will see many arguments both for and against, I always place my Olds on jack stands. Just a habit taught to me from my Dad.
Lastly, and if you look through this site you will see many arguments both for and against, I always place my Olds on jack stands. Just a habit taught to me from my Dad.
#4
I store mine for the winter also, but you really should look into renting a storage unit. Like it was said above "moisture is the enemy". You could always place a trap or two in the unit, if that worries you. I always put a few boxes of drier sheets inside. In addition to keeping the car smelling nice while in storage, it will also (believe it or not) keep the rodents away. You will also want to spend 1-2 bucks on those aluminum roasting pans that can be picked up at any Walmart. Place them under the oil pan and the transmission. It's been my experience that cars that sit for more than a month or so, will start to leak fluids. This will help contain the mess. You will also want to pull the battery and throw it on a tender for the winter.
Lastly, and if you look through this site you will see many arguments both for and against, I always place my Olds on jack stands. Just a habit taught to me from my Dad.
Lastly, and if you look through this site you will see many arguments both for and against, I always place my Olds on jack stands. Just a habit taught to me from my Dad.
#5
Check around for prices I found storage units in my area to be ~120/ month, looking around I found a nearby guy that stores cars campers boats $70/mo.
i usually air up the tires to 40psi or so, add gas stabilizer and fill it w premium. I also change the oil before storage. If you have chrome rims spray them w wd40 to drive off moisture and prevent rust.
if you have an area w asphalt or concrete a portable shelter could be an option, I wouldn't put one up on dirt tho...to moist
i usually air up the tires to 40psi or so, add gas stabilizer and fill it w premium. I also change the oil before storage. If you have chrome rims spray them w wd40 to drive off moisture and prevent rust.
if you have an area w asphalt or concrete a portable shelter could be an option, I wouldn't put one up on dirt tho...to moist
#7
#10
#15
I missed hearing what part of the World you're in. Prudhoe Bay would be slightly different from Key West, but I always support inside storage, year round.
You've got a lot of good suggestions already. Just follow up. If there is wildlife, but sure to use a deterrent.
You've got a lot of good suggestions already. Just follow up. If there is wildlife, but sure to use a deterrent.
#17
I'm in SE VA...prob won't see snow for a while, but I'm just wanting to get a head start.
#18
Theres other products that will prevent corrosion, but wd40 is something most of us already have.
When i was forced to keep my 85 442 outside for the winter (massachusetts) i sprayed all the rims very liberally w wd40. its thin but after a week or so i noticed it had formed a noticeable film. When i wiped the rims off in the spring they looked great. If your familier w the all chrome ss3s those things attract rust like cars attract mice. I also use it on my tractor and plow exposed cylinders when storing them it works very good. just spray it on and dont wipe until spring
#19
My Cutlass goes inside. I basically park mine nice and clean inside and out. I inflate the tires to 35 pounds, fill tank with a pint of mystery oil added, take it on a long drive then park it hot. I disconnect the battery and cover it with a soft car cover. I periodically use the mint things to keep mice out of the engine compartment which has only been partly successful. I maintain the car well throughout the year so there isn’t really a whole lot more to do. It sits from late November/early December to mid March/early April. There is probably more to do taking it out come spring, check all fluids and top off, I always lose antifreeze during winter. A seam towards the top of my radiator opens when the temp gets into the single digits. I check all hose connections, tires etc and change the oil within a couple weeks after taking it out of storage. I avoid opening the garage door during those misty warmer winter days to prevent moist air rushing in and condensing on cold exposed surfaces. If you store outside and live in a part of the country that stays cold all winter that is not so bad, cold air is dry air. If you don’t allow moisture to accumulate under covers you should be fine but at some point you need to find indoor storage as the long term solution.
#20
I have an unheated, damp garage. I pull the plugs, spray with fogging oil, turn the motor once with a ratchet, spray again and reinstall the plugs. Also spray some into the carb and cover it with a cap GM used to ship new carbs. I bring in the air cleaner and washer jugs (one used as a coolant reservoir). Not sure if it really does any harm, but why subject 40 year old plastic to sub-zero temps. I also like to fog the tailpipes and cover them, and fog/WD-40 the aluminum intake and anything else that looks like it needs protection.
In the spring I pull the plugs, spray, spin with the starter, install plugs and fire it up. I usually crank a second or two until I see the oil pressure gage move before I set the choke and give it a shot of gas.
I've had the car 31 years with no engine problems.
Probably shouldn't have said that.
In the spring I pull the plugs, spray, spin with the starter, install plugs and fire it up. I usually crank a second or two until I see the oil pressure gage move before I set the choke and give it a shot of gas.
I've had the car 31 years with no engine problems.
Probably shouldn't have said that.
Last edited by frankr442; November 7th, 2018 at 09:35 AM.
#21
Guys, if you have a damp garage, consider getting a dehumidifier. I got one for my oversized double garage and it effectively brings the humidity from over 70% down to the mid-forties.
#24
Do not depend on dryer sheets to keep mice away! Here is a shot of my air cleaner with a mouse nest stuffed in one of the wings. I believe mice robe the sheets from a waste basket in front of the car. They had gone through the dryer but still had the dryer fresh smell on the ones in the waste basket, I didn't risk a snort on the ones in the air cleaner..... Tedd
#25
Re dryer sheets True!!! Ive had old dryer sheets in my shed that mice ignore. I think the trick is fresh dryer sheets maybe every two weeks while the rodents are looking to get inside (first signs of cold) until its really cold (40s or below all the time) I have had good luck w dryer sheets and essential oils on cotton ***** used together but I keep em fresh from at least first cold to first good snow. I also throw out some p nut butter baited snap traps just in case
#27
Here in central N.C., we'll have have some some sub-freezing temperatures here and there but days in the 60s and sometimes even the 70s throughout the winter are not uncommon, either so I don't anticipate having to completely put the convertible into suspended animation. That said, I just had a metal carport put installed at the bottom of the driveway. It's nice not to necessarily have to mess with the cover if I think I might take the car back out in the next day or so, while I have the extra protection of both when I don't plan on driving it for awhile.
#30
Put heavy mil plastic under the car to prevent moisture from wicking up during large temperature swings. Look under a car after its been 20*f then then it dramatically warms up in a short period to say 45*f. Drops of water will be hanging off the chassis. The plastic will prevent this. Keep the trunk cracked open and remove its contents to include the rubber mat if so equipped. Stabil 360 in the gas tank. Wax the chrome. Pull the battery and put it on a float charger(tender as mentioned).Toss a breathable cover over it. Then rodent proof the place with bar soap, dryer sheets, decon tomcat glue trap et al...cheap insurance there. You never know what in the storage units adjacent to yours. Ill turn mine over every so often to get the oil to the top end and rotate the cam to alternate the comperssed springs. My garage is in my house and somewhat climate controlled.
#31
Like oldcutlass, I do the oil, filter and lube in the spring.
Since my garage is heated and I keep the temp around 55, I don't have moisture to contend with.
I will wash, and if time allows, wax the car, throw in some Sta-bil and fill the tank. I don't pull the battery, just hook up the Tender.
I haven't had any mice problems, but I do set several traps under and around the car loaded with peanut butter just in case.
I also stuff some Bounce sheets in the exhaust tips and under the hood as well, but I can't say for certain that they have actually prevented anything from nesting.
Since my garage is heated and I keep the temp around 55, I don't have moisture to contend with.
I will wash, and if time allows, wax the car, throw in some Sta-bil and fill the tank. I don't pull the battery, just hook up the Tender.
I haven't had any mice problems, but I do set several traps under and around the car loaded with peanut butter just in case.
I also stuff some Bounce sheets in the exhaust tips and under the hood as well, but I can't say for certain that they have actually prevented anything from nesting.
#32
Great advice from everyone and thanks. To be honest, I'm questioning the thought of "putting it up for winter", and here's why:. As I said above, I live in SE VA where the winters are relatively mild. We may get an occasional hard snow, and also, we usually don't even see snow till Jan-Feb.
As far as temps, it may dip below freezing a few nights sporadically through the winter, but again, on the whole, temps are usually pretty mild averaging around 40-45 throughout. I get what everyone is saying about moisture and condensation, but how does that issue differ from rain and humidity in the summer? Again, I keep my Cutlass in my driveway with a good quality cover, and I do intend to take it out every so often even during the winter. So my question is, do I really need to be worried about winter storage? I will check the anti freeze just to make sure it's the right mixture, but other than that, I dunno if I'll do anything else.
For those that live in the same climate, what are your thoughts, and what is the general opinion/consensus?
Thanks,
Dave
As far as temps, it may dip below freezing a few nights sporadically through the winter, but again, on the whole, temps are usually pretty mild averaging around 40-45 throughout. I get what everyone is saying about moisture and condensation, but how does that issue differ from rain and humidity in the summer? Again, I keep my Cutlass in my driveway with a good quality cover, and I do intend to take it out every so often even during the winter. So my question is, do I really need to be worried about winter storage? I will check the anti freeze just to make sure it's the right mixture, but other than that, I dunno if I'll do anything else.
For those that live in the same climate, what are your thoughts, and what is the general opinion/consensus?
Thanks,
Dave
Last edited by 72455; November 12th, 2018 at 01:42 AM.
#33
I think you should be fine. There will doubtless be plenty of pleasant days throughout the winter when you might want to take the Cutlass out for a little exercise. I've always parked my cars outside year round with no ill effects.
#35
#36
Stay on the side streets, then -- my guess is that in SE Va, they're gonna be salting the main routes if the temperature even starts to tickle freezing. And it takes very little of that to reduce your quarters to Swiss cheese.
Last edited by BangScreech4-4-2; November 12th, 2018 at 09:00 AM.
#37
Around here it takes a good all day rain storm followed by a mild day (so they don’t throw salt on wet roads again) to clean the roads during winter.
When I had my 71 Coupe Deville I stored it outside during the winter. I used a cotton cover with a tarp over the cotton. It worked well, BUT after every rain storm or wet snow event I would uncover to let any accumulated moisture dissipate. During long stretches of cold I left it alone. If the roads were salt free and dry I would take it out during the winter, including a stretch of single digit cold. These cars were built to drive during the winter but most people don’t anymore because of the salt. When roads are clean I’ll often see some old cars on the road during the middle of winter. I don’t take my Cutlass out on those nice winter days mostly because I haven’t replaced the heater motor yet and I no longer have a stock air cleaner with an operable exhaust heat stove.
When I had my 71 Coupe Deville I stored it outside during the winter. I used a cotton cover with a tarp over the cotton. It worked well, BUT after every rain storm or wet snow event I would uncover to let any accumulated moisture dissipate. During long stretches of cold I left it alone. If the roads were salt free and dry I would take it out during the winter, including a stretch of single digit cold. These cars were built to drive during the winter but most people don’t anymore because of the salt. When roads are clean I’ll often see some old cars on the road during the middle of winter. I don’t take my Cutlass out on those nice winter days mostly because I haven’t replaced the heater motor yet and I no longer have a stock air cleaner with an operable exhaust heat stove.
#38
As far as temps, it may dip below freezing a few nights sporadically through the winter, but again, on the whole, temps are usually pretty mild averaging around 40-45 throughout. I get what everyone is saying about moisture and condensation, but how does that issue differ from rain and humidity in the summer?
Simple answer...It doesn't,
ALL moisture is not good for these antique cars hot mild cold or other. Even large temp swings from day to night can cause condensation in all the wrong places. The metal is not treated and sealed like today's cars are. Door seams come to mind, inner cowl areas, closed trunks trap moisture....I no longer wash my car. Have not for decades. IMO the only way to keep the tin worms at-bay, short of moving to Phoenix is indoor dry (semi)controlled environments. Bare min at least inside. Outside storage would be my last choice no matter where your located.
So my question is, do I really need to be worried about winter storage?
If rust doesn't bother you then no
Simple answer...It doesn't,
ALL moisture is not good for these antique cars hot mild cold or other. Even large temp swings from day to night can cause condensation in all the wrong places. The metal is not treated and sealed like today's cars are. Door seams come to mind, inner cowl areas, closed trunks trap moisture....I no longer wash my car. Have not for decades. IMO the only way to keep the tin worms at-bay, short of moving to Phoenix is indoor dry (semi)controlled environments. Bare min at least inside. Outside storage would be my last choice no matter where your located.
So my question is, do I really need to be worried about winter storage?
If rust doesn't bother you then no
#39
So I've made a decision...I'm buying a high end car cover and I'm going to keep the Cutlass in my driveway. If cold air is dry air then I shouldn't have to worry about the condensation issue, nor the dessicant, correct? Again, it's not going into complete hibernation...I will be taking it out for a drive at least once a week (if not more often). If things go according to plan, we'll be moving late spring/early summer next year and we'll have a garage, so I'll be in a better position next winter.
I'll keep everyone posted on how things go.
Dave
I'll keep everyone posted on how things go.
Dave
#40
Very cold air is dry, on days when it warms up is when you'll have a problem. In New England it can stay very cold for a few weeks or more at a time but it will then jump up to the mid 30's to 40 with misty rain then get cold again. Make sure the cover can breath and that rain can't get down into doors, seams etc. If your storing outside for one winter and you'll have a garage soon you should be fine. Use Damp Rid in the trunk and interior. If you are taking it out regularly, on clean roads, that will drive out accumulated moisture. In New England late fall and early spring is when the air is cold and wet for a week or more at a time, not a nice time for a car to be outside.
Last edited by Destructor; November 15th, 2018 at 03:58 AM.