When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Researching an electric choke for my 1972 CS 350 4BBL. Seems like some of you folks have done this. What kit did you use and were you happy with the results?
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
BTW, I found Joe's post about wiring for the EC , slick, I bookmarked that !!
If you have a stock Qjet, you don't need a kit. Simply replace the hot air choke coil with an electric one. I use the ones from a mid-80s Chevy Qjet. Standard Motor Products P/N CV329, about $38 at RockAuto. Note that the terminal requires a special plug to fit. Dorman P/N 85113 is about $4 at RockAuto. Be sure to discard the gasket between the old choke thermostat and the housing. The electric thermostat requires metal-to-metal contact for the ground path.
And be sure the 12 VDC wire is connected to a keyed 12 volt source so it shuts off with the engine.
Well, technically, you want the choke connected to a source that only has power when the engine is running. This is why I showed the use of an oil pressure switch, which is what the factory uses. If you have an oil pressure switch, it doesn't matter if the source is keyed or full time, since the switch only closes when there is oil pressure.
I see the part numbers for the oil pressure switch. My car has an oil pressure gauge in addition to an idiot light. Will any of these switches support the three circuits? Oil pressure gauge, oil pressure light and electric choke?
I see the part numbers for the oil pressure switch. My car has an oil pressure gauge in addition to an idiot light. Will any of these switches support the three circuits? Oil pressure gauge, oil pressure light and electric choke?
Thank you
Kevin Walker
I'm not aware of a three way sender like that, and frankly, every gauge requires a different resistance range for the sender. Just install a tee fitting with the sender for the gauge and the sender for the idiot light and choke.
If you're talking about a 2GC, the coil in the choke operates in the other direction. There is an electric choke coil that works in this application. This thread will provide more info.
I'm not aware of a three way sender like that, and frankly, every gauge requires a different resistance range for the sender. Just install a tee fitting with the sender for the gauge and the sender for the idiot light and choke.
Thank you for your response. Are you referring to a pneumatic tee or a jumper wire? If a pneumatic tee, would you happen to have a part number I could order? I would not know where to begin.
Thank you for your response. Are you referring to a pneumatic tee or a jumper wire? If a pneumatic tee, would you happen to have a part number I could order? I would not know where to begin.
Apollo, I hooked mine to a 12 volt source that is on when the key is on. That was in 1992. Have never had a problem. I see this is an old thread and you may have already figured it out. Take care.
Given a choice, I route the power from a source that's hot with the key in "Run", but not hot in "Accessory", "Off", or "Crank". I don't want the choke powered while the starter motor is grinding away; extended crank time in the winter shouldn't open the choke.
THEN route the power through a normally-open oil pressure switch, so that the choke won't continue to heat if the engine stalls while I'm inside having my last cuppa coffee while the engine warms-up.
Given a choice, I route the power from a source that's hot with the key in "Run", but not hot in "Accessory", "Off", or "Crank". I don't want the choke powered while the starter motor is grinding away; extended crank time in the winter shouldn't open the choke.
THEN route the power through a normally-open oil pressure switch, so that the choke won't continue to heat if the engine stalls while I'm inside having my last cuppa coffee while the engine warms-up.
August 14th, 2018, 04:43 AM
