Glasstek OAI Hood Question
#1
Glasstek OAI Hood Question
So I was able to pick up a glasstek OAI all fiberglass hood for my 71 cutlass convertible . I have purchased as well the lightweight springs and the chrome twist and lock down ***** set. My question is once I install the hood do I still use the existing hood latch system with the t-handle release or do I remove all of that and just use the lock down twist *****
#5
The pins in those chrome hood locks don't look strong enough to me. If they fail you better have a change of shorts with you. GM used the stock hood releases with the OAI hoods from the factory.
#6
Make sure the pins in the twist lock are secure so they stay centered. Some have had the pin move off center and then can't get hood open. Checked mine and they were tight, so not sure if it was the repops that had the problem.
#7
Well after getting through the holidays i was able to install the hood. But, the fiberglass hood has no holes or bolt holes to allow the factory hood latch to be installed thus forcing me to only use the twist *****.
Any thoughts??
Any thoughts??
#8
Make it a point to mention to any mechanics that work on it not to slam the hood. When I first got my black cutlass it had the fiberglass hood and I heard a mechanic repeatedly slamming my hood. I hollered out the door "stop". He thought it was like stock. Fortunately no damage but DAMN!
#9
Well, I hit a deer with my 71 back in 96 or so. I couldn't find a good hood and asked the body shop if I could get a aftermarket OAI hood and the insurance company did paid for it. It was a glasstek. It was sent to the body shop and they didn't know how to latch it and neither did I. So they put it on and finished and painted it. It's been over 20 yrs with using just the hood pin latches. I would NOT recommend doing what I did but it has been fine for years. Of course it would only take one time of forgetting to latch the pins for disaster to happen. EVERY time I close the hood I latch it. EVERY TIME, even if I think it won't be moved I still latch them. Also when I drive the car I look down the hood and can see the left pin and make sure it's latched. I don't recommend it but that's what I still have.... Now that the car is older and better I plan to go back to a regular steel hood, which I have since bought.
#11
There was a thread on here where someone had reinforced the latch area on a fiber hood so they could use the factory latch besides the twist locks. The factory hoods had a metal frame w a fiber top, the glass Tekhood is all fiber
#12
#13
The Cutlass I just grabbed has an older glasstek hood with only the pins, been on there for probably 12 - 15 years and no problems yet. Though the previous owner lost one of the pins. I noticed it the first time I took it down the expressway , had to slow down real quick!
As for the little pins moving on the twist lock my W30s have that problem and they are original twist locks. Every time I open the hood I double check to make sure they are in the correct place. I bent them just a little so they don't slide as easy. Some folks dab some adhesive on there others use wire-cutters to crimp them that creates a lip on each side that prevents it from shifting.
As for the little pins moving on the twist lock my W30s have that problem and they are original twist locks. Every time I open the hood I double check to make sure they are in the correct place. I bent them just a little so they don't slide as easy. Some folks dab some adhesive on there others use wire-cutters to crimp them that creates a lip on each side that prevents it from shifting.
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