New to me 1983 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Coupe! 307 V8, 58K miles
#1
New to me 1983 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Coupe! 307 V8, 58K miles
Picked this up over the weekend and so far - couldn't be happier. Been a long time since I've driven a big car like this. Forgot how much I enjoyed it. Extremely comfortable and smooth. Always loved the idea of a big 2 door. Luckily the previous owners took good care of it and saved a ton of receipts. Most of the work having been done in the last 10K miles.
The engine runs great. A/C works. Brakes are a bit squeaky at the moment. Not sure if it's partly from sitting, or they need some work. Previous owners have recent receipts for replacing - but I'm still going to check them out.
The interior is very nice. Only flaws I can find are 2 small dash cracks on the right side.
The exterior is about a 7 out of 10 in my opinion. Have a few chrome pieces that need replacing, the top is cracking and needs replaced, rear bumper filler missing (have the new pieces, just not installed), and a few misc dings. My plan is to take it to a good body shop/resto shop and get a quote to have it cleaned up a bit. I don't mind wrenching - but not so much on trim, paint, body work, etc..
I don't want to get it to a 10/10 - I imagine that would be thousands..but maybe about a 9/10 would make me happy.
Any suggestions where I should by the vinyl top and chrome pieces? Any other suggestions are also appreciated. Thanks!
The engine runs great. A/C works. Brakes are a bit squeaky at the moment. Not sure if it's partly from sitting, or they need some work. Previous owners have recent receipts for replacing - but I'm still going to check them out.
The interior is very nice. Only flaws I can find are 2 small dash cracks on the right side.
The exterior is about a 7 out of 10 in my opinion. Have a few chrome pieces that need replacing, the top is cracking and needs replaced, rear bumper filler missing (have the new pieces, just not installed), and a few misc dings. My plan is to take it to a good body shop/resto shop and get a quote to have it cleaned up a bit. I don't mind wrenching - but not so much on trim, paint, body work, etc..
I don't want to get it to a 10/10 - I imagine that would be thousands..but maybe about a 9/10 would make me happy.
Any suggestions where I should by the vinyl top and chrome pieces? Any other suggestions are also appreciated. Thanks!
#2
Welcome to the site and congrats on your new to you toy. I always go through all the safety stuff, front end, check tune, check filters, Then move on to the cosmetics. You possibly can carefully remove the dents in your trim. The vinyl roof will need replaced. Body dings may be able to be removed with a paintless dent guy. Check the age of your tires.
#3
Welcome to the site and congrats on your new to you toy. I always go through all the safety stuff, front end, check tune, check filters, Then move on to the cosmetics. You possibly can carefully remove the dents in your trim. The vinyl roof will need replaced. Body dings may be able to be removed with a paintless dent guy. Check the age of your tires.
I'm going to try to get it in the air this weekend and check the front wheels for any play, inspect the brakes. I'll replace the pads/rotors if I have any doubt at all in them. Same with the rear brakes. Also want to check the rear axle seals. Will replace and refill rear end fluid if needed (doubt it was ever serviced).
#4
My first two American cars were a 1979 Delta 88n Royale, and a 1978 98 Regency. Both 4 door sedans.
I'd have another 1977-86 B body tomorrow if one came up. I don't mind which GM clone badges it might have, although I'd prefer it to be Oldsmobile.
Roger.
I'd have another 1977-86 B body tomorrow if one came up. I don't mind which GM clone badges it might have, although I'd prefer it to be Oldsmobile.
Roger.
#6
Brakes have been getting noisier. Also noticing some pulsating and grabbing. Took a front and rear wheel off today. Both were pretty filthy, but nothing obviously wrong. Going to replace the front rotors and pads, lubricate everything well and see how it does. Will do the rear ones here eventually. Probably replace the rear wheel cylinders, axle seals, and differential fluid while at it.
#7
The pulsing in your brakes is warped rotors and/or drums. I would take the rotors/drums to a parts store that can cut them and have them trued. The stock stuff is better than any replacement. Tell them to take off the smallest amount of metal to get them cleaned up. Most will let you watch and explain what they are doing. In most cases if the wheel brake cylinders are not leaking they are good.
Rear axle oil usually does not go bad.
If your engine has not been tuned in a few years its time to do it again.
Rear axle oil usually does not go bad.
If your engine has not been tuned in a few years its time to do it again.
#9
The pulsing in your brakes is warped rotors and/or drums. I would take the rotors/drums to a parts store that can cut them and have them trued. The stock stuff is better than any replacement. Tell them to take off the smallest amount of metal to get them cleaned up. Most will let you watch and explain what they are doing. In most cases if the wheel brake cylinders are not leaking they are good.
Rear axle oil usually does not go bad.
If your engine has not been tuned in a few years its time to do it again.
Rear axle oil usually does not go bad.
If your engine has not been tuned in a few years its time to do it again.
I did notice a little oil on the rear wheel cylinder - but it wasn't bad and not obviously leaking. I'm wondering if it's just grease from when they were last replaced.
Looking forward to tearing into it and getting it back on the road. No parts stores in my areas have the rotors, so will have to wait at least a few days for them once I pick out a brand.
As far as the differential - It could be fine - but hard to know without opening it up. I've opened up hundreds of rear ends and you'd be amazed how many rear ends have very little fluid still in them. This one is likely fine (no obvious leaks) - but the drivetrain should be 100% perfect if it is serviced with fresh axle seals. Really doesn't add much time to doing a rear brake job.
The motor was all tuned up as well in the last 8K miles and it runs like a top. I'll probably do plugs, wires, cap, rotor this Winter at some point just for fun to make sure everything is tip-top.
Also, the tires are 7 years old. Lots of tread left...but I wouldn't want to run tires much older than that. I'll probably change them next Spring (if not sooner) and have an alignment done.
#11
#12
Finally got the parts to do the front brakes. New rotors, pads, bearings, seals. No more squeaking! I am still getting some pulling/grabbing - particularly after driving a short bit. Not super terrible, but doesn't seem quite perfect.
Got the back end jacked up and both rear drums off. Nothing obviously wrong - but there was a ton of brake dust. Not sure if that alone could cause this issue. Looks like there could be some minor weeping from the wheel cylinders..but maybe just factory grease?
Gonna replace the drums, shoes, hardware, possibly wheel cylinders, axle seals, and differential fluid. Just gotta get the parts together and can hopefully tackle the project over a couple weeknights.
Got the back end jacked up and both rear drums off. Nothing obviously wrong - but there was a ton of brake dust. Not sure if that alone could cause this issue. Looks like there could be some minor weeping from the wheel cylinders..but maybe just factory grease?
Gonna replace the drums, shoes, hardware, possibly wheel cylinders, axle seals, and differential fluid. Just gotta get the parts together and can hopefully tackle the project over a couple weeknights.
#15
The slightly annoying part is the previous owner has receipts for the wheel cylinders. So I'm pretty sure they were replaced recently. The bleeder nipple on the back looks new for both of them.. The cylinders themselves don't look like they have even been changed..but they obviously age fast in that environment.
Last edited by 83olds98; November 2nd, 2017 at 07:23 AM.
#16
If you have receipts for the wheel cylinders do they have a warranty on them? Perhaps you could take them to the auto parts store and swap them for new ones. Then again, I'm sure they're not too expensive.
#17
Good idea.. I didn't even think of that. I think it may have just been on a shop invoice though - and I already purchased them. They were about $10 a piece, so not a big deal. Hopefully these last longer than the last ones.. Aftermarket stuff certainly doesn't have the life span of OEM.
#21
Ninety Eight Coupes were seriously uncommon in the 80s so you have a stylish ride.
What are those wheels? Look like Buick Road Wheels? That car's screaming for a set of SSIV Polycasts or N82 Chrome Wheels.
What are those wheels? Look like Buick Road Wheels? That car's screaming for a set of SSIV Polycasts or N82 Chrome Wheels.
#22
The wheels are Keystone. I love them. Think they look great. I have the original steel wheels as well with the spoke hub caps. I think these look much better than the stock ones.
I talked to a local restoration shop this week. I'll be bringing the car down next week to get a quote on the vinyl top and some overall body clean up.
#25
Question - It looks like the car is nicely loaded, by chance does it have tilt & tele, or just tilt wheel? If it has T&T, could you snap a picture of the steering wheel? The brochures said T&T was available, but I've never seen one past 1980. Thanks!
#27
I don't know the production numbers. I'm sure someone knows.
I just wanted to let you know about a product I used on my 71 98.
http://wheelskins.com/
These leather steering wheel covers aren't too expensive and they look factory. I know the old style foam steering wheel covers like the one you have are nostalgic.
If you need to repair your steering wheel because it has cracks here's a good kit.
http://www.eastwood.com/master-steer...w-instruc.html
I just wanted to let you know about a product I used on my 71 98.
http://wheelskins.com/
These leather steering wheel covers aren't too expensive and they look factory. I know the old style foam steering wheel covers like the one you have are nostalgic.
If you need to repair your steering wheel because it has cracks here's a good kit.
http://www.eastwood.com/master-steer...w-instruc.html
#28
I went to the body shop the other day. He had no source for the chrome moldings.. I can tell those are going to be very difficult to find..Although I'm sure they are out there somewhere. I think they are just too random to have any luck going to the pick n pull yards searching.
I'll probably have them do the vinyl top (price seemed fairly reasonable for that) Also repair some dings, redo the pin striping, and repaint a few panels. I asked if he thinks he should respray the entire vehicle..but he said that would be very expensive. There is also a spot on the hood where someone buffed through the paint - He didn't notice that and I didn't bring it up. So including that a good chunk of the car will be repainted.
I'll probably have them do the vinyl top (price seemed fairly reasonable for that) Also repair some dings, redo the pin striping, and repaint a few panels. I asked if he thinks he should respray the entire vehicle..but he said that would be very expensive. There is also a spot on the hood where someone buffed through the paint - He didn't notice that and I didn't bring it up. So including that a good chunk of the car will be repainted.
#29
You might ask the body shop if the damaged chrome moldings you have can be repaired. The molding on the door could be removed and the dents could be straightened. The molding on the wheel well that's split might be able to be tack welded and ground smooth.
Of course, ideally you need replacements. As you said though, parts cars aren't easy to find.
The chrome molding around my rear window was bent pretty bad. I straightened it when I painted the car. It isn't perfect, but it's better than it was.
You might consider searching for Chevy Caprices and Impalas as well as Delta 88s for the chrome you're missing. They may have interchangeable parts. I'm sure someone can verify this.
Of course, ideally you need replacements. As you said though, parts cars aren't easy to find.
The chrome molding around my rear window was bent pretty bad. I straightened it when I painted the car. It isn't perfect, but it's better than it was.
You might consider searching for Chevy Caprices and Impalas as well as Delta 88s for the chrome you're missing. They may have interchangeable parts. I'm sure someone can verify this.
#30
You might ask the body shop if the damaged chrome moldings you have can be repaired. The molding on the door could be removed and the dents could be straightened. The molding on the wheel well that's split might be able to be tack welded and ground smooth.
Of course, ideally you need replacements. As you said though, parts cars aren't easy to find.
The chrome molding around my rear window was bent pretty bad. I straightened it when I painted the car. It isn't perfect, but it's better than it was.
You might consider searching for Chevy Caprices and Impalas as well as Delta 88s for the chrome you're missing. They may have interchangeable parts. I'm sure someone can verify this.
Of course, ideally you need replacements. As you said though, parts cars aren't easy to find.
The chrome molding around my rear window was bent pretty bad. I straightened it when I painted the car. It isn't perfect, but it's better than it was.
You might consider searching for Chevy Caprices and Impalas as well as Delta 88s for the chrome you're missing. They may have interchangeable parts. I'm sure someone can verify this.
I know the doors fit
80-85 OLDS 88
80-84 Electra
80-84 Ninety Eight
80-85 Lesabre
80-84 Park Ave
Fenders fit
80-85 Olds 88
80-84 Olds Ninety Eight
Less models, but they are the same from Sedans and Coupes.
The moldings may have been used on other models - but they should certainly be the same on those.
#31
I think I may have found it.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/230965849889?ul_noapp=true
I just still doubt it will be that whole wide piece of chrome. Almost worth taking a chance for the price.
I just still doubt it will be that whole wide piece of chrome. Almost worth taking a chance for the price.
#32
Those window sweeps are the felt between the door panel/window and between the window/outer trim. From your pics above you need the chrome trim for the top of the driver's door and the rear driver's window. If you need window sweeps too you can get both as a set. They're sometimes referred to as cat whiskers.
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