Zr1bandit

1970 442 coupe trunk lid re-pop from Tamraz lock cylinder hole not punched properly, anybody else have this problem?? Don't see any way to fix ??

RetroRanger

pics may help

Zr1bandit

Black lid is my original and the rally red on is the repop. Black hole has much more recessed area on the lower side of the hole to give the cylinder a better angle towards the lock mechanism

cherokeepeople

what the hell did they use to hack out those notches,looks like something a third grader would do.

Zr1bandit

Nobody ever saw this before ????

70W-32

What does Tamraz say about this?

My442

Reproduction parts are usually no where as good as OEM parts.

The engineering, materials and workmanship are usually sub par, and are made offshore for cheap labor.

I ALWAYS try to buy NOS or good used OEM over reproduction stuff.

Always fits and functions better.

The only way to fix that is to cut the area out around the hole of the original and graft it on to the reproduction part.

Or get a good used part.

Zr1bandit

Tamraz offered me 125 to settle this problem. Paid 450 for the lid to begin with, they clai all their deck looks look like the one i received No way it will work without major redo not counting the new paiant-----this is not right ---------

wifespain

wow, ran into this problem when i restored my chevelle with fenders not fitting properly. Like MY442 said, all made overseas, basically crap.

Hoffman2099

Did you pay through paypal? If so maybe you could open a complaint against Tamraz if it's not to late and say the item was not as described and get your money back? They obviously don't say there's a defect in the item description so the deck lid is not as described.

Zr1bandit

Bought it thru ebay if I remember right

Hoffman2099

Yeah, but did you send payment through paypal? And when did you buy it?

Zr1bandit

Its been awhile. Will have to look it up.

70W-32

Everyone take note that Tamraz has no intention of replacing the defective part, nor are they removing the defective part from their inventory, changing the description, or reducing the price.

ZR, have you considered using a factory electric trunk release until you can find a good lid from a parts car. You'll have access to the trunk, and can plug the whole with a key lock that doesnt do anything, for now.

Zr1bandit

Right on. So far no help fro Tamraz Electric trunk is an option.

wifespain

i was gonna buy a carpet off this guy for the olds, guess i'll look elsewhere.

tcolt

That looks pretty bad...

I just noticed something else. People always say something is made overseas as if that means that makes it an inferior product, but it doesn't. People here in this country are paying them to make it just the way they want it, so it's of bad quality because they were paid to produce bad quality. That goes for Chinese stuff as well. If they can send rockets into space and develop fighter jets they could make a trunk lid to the same standards as GM. :-) Part of the problem is that making only a few hundred of these at a time requires either that the part is extremely expensive because of the tooling costs or alternatively they are forced to use stamping presses with less pressing force and other compromises that cause the stamping to not be as sharp or as deep, etc....

Zr1bandit

Has anyone bought one that has the correct lock hole and worked ??? Are there different manufacturers of these trunk lids I wonder ???

Zr1bandit

Got this response from another vender for repo deck lids

oldolds88

had the same type of problem with my nova lid,the hole was 90* off. had to recut to install lock.

Zr1bandit

You would think the venders would let people know that these lids need modifications to work properly---------

marxjunk

why? if they said there where problems, they'd never sell one

i thought about this and edited it..this is not directed at anyone i dont want to be "that" guy

you ALWAYS test fit everything while its still in e-coat...never assume anything..always always always test fit everything...news for ya..lots of GM parts need adjustment too...ive worked as hard on NOS GM stuff as some after-crap...i test fit everything before it even gets to primer...

an educated consumer make better decisions...anytime you buy anything aftermarket do some research first...a simple google...

Zr1bandit

Did a test fit and it fit great----never thought the hole for the lock cylinder would be a problem tho-----------who woulda thought

marxjunk

those are the details that bite ya..every time

when i assemble a car in mock up, its gets fully assembled, weather strip moldings everything, lock cylinders..i mean everything...even with NOS stuff..it gets a once over before it even get to metal work...easier to fix before than after paint...

ive done it..its easy to over look things like lock cylinder holes...and the feeling ya get when it goes bad, its bad...

look at it like this...youll never make that mistake again..its all a learning process...

by the way, you can buy lock cylinder repair kits..its about 3x3...they have been selling them for decades, in the 80s, i put dozens in theft recovery cars.. doors and deck lids...

Zr1bandit

Can you send me a link to the repair kit you are describing ?? What is it exactly ??

marxjunk

its a stamped panel thats about 3x3 and has the lock flange stamped in it. its a little patch panel..people used to drive screwdrivers between the lock cylinder and the opening pry on them to break into trunks and doors...it would mangle them up pretty good and couldnt be straightened, so id trim the panel to a circle and weld it on the panel..


i am on the road...i will over the weekend, the last time i saw one i stumbled on it on rock auto its a lock opening repair panel..its been a bit since i saw it, but i will look

marxjunk

I just remembered..i have a chunk cut from a decklid with the cylinder and key...let me see tonight..

Zr1bandit

Keep me posted -------

marxjunk

i have it...i know i do..i just dont know where i put it...i am leaving town for a couple days for work..if you dont figure out a solution, i will look some more when i get home..i know i have it, i cut a 70 up and all the keys worked, so i cut the lock cylinders out of the doors and the decklid and kept the 4 speed coulmn and glove box, because they where all coded right ..hard to believe i just cant find them, but i will...

frankr442

The way the shaft is attached to the cylinder allows for some play. I know it's not ideal, but does it actually bind when you turn the key? Just curious.

Zr1bandit

Yes. MAJOR BIND. WONT WORK

Zr1bandit

OK. When you find it pleased let me know. I still need it for sure Thanks. Greg

sleeton

Who made that deck lid? Is it a golden star?

Zr1bandit

The lid came from Tamraz parts, and I believe they get their stuff thru the parts place. As to what brand it is i dont know. I was told all the re pop stuff comes from the same manufacturer, again, i dont know

70Post

So it's THE ANGLE of the flat lock "rod" that is affected/causing the problem? - due to the angle of the face of the depressed area? (which puts the lock cylinder at a bad angle).

How about the cutouts in the hole for the lock cylinder? Does the lock cylinder itself slide into and sit in the hole OK? (without the rest of the latch stuff mounted to the decklid underside)....regardless of the angle of the lock "bar".

If it's just the angle that the flat bar approaches/goes into the rest of the locking mechanism have you looked at MODIFYING the flat bar some way to get the "approach angle" corrected? Put a "jog" in the flat bar, etc...it's metal and can be welded, bent, added to, etc.

Zr1bandit

THE ANGLE is the problem. tried everything to get it to work just too much of a bind. the cutouts in the hole seem to be ok, but the lock cylinder wont even go all the way into the hole without removing some metal on the inside if the trunk lid. again its the angle of the hole in the lid itself-----------------Greg

70Post

OK - it's the angle. Why not try "adjusting" the angle w/a modified flat bar piece? MUCH easier than welding a patch onto the super-thin new metal skin of that decklid and dealing with all the warpage that will occur.

What do you have to lose but a bit of time and some light fabricating?

Either that or get a Dremel and cut a slot around the punched-out opening lip (down in the depressed area), fold/bend the tab to position the tab at a better angle (test fit a lock cylinder and flat bar) and see if it can then be tacked back in place at a better angle. At least that way you won't be putting a bunch of heat into the flatter areas that would be adjacent to a patch panel layout. MUCH LESS bodywork (and warpage) if the welding was down in the lock hole depression.

Zr1bandit

Tried bending to all angles, still too much of a bind---was thinking to about cutting and resetting the hole also, its just not gonna be easy either way. This sucks big time

stevengerard

Just a thought --- you can get the electric trunk release option for your car and use that. Just mount the lock cylinder in the hole but don't hook it up to the latch. Of course with a dead battery you are out of luck but its a solution. Its a bummer to hear that it is that off that you can;'t even get it to work if you bend the latch bar

Zr1bandit

Thought about the electric lock also----but what do you do if the lock fails and there is noe way into the trunk ? What's really interesting is nobody that I've heard of has come across this problem also----guess im the luck one