Ignition lock
#1
Ignition lock
I went to start my 57 olds today and when I let go of the key and car was running, the key didn't spring back to on position. It was keeping the starter going, I had to turn it back a clock to normal position. Do these locks break inside and can you replace them
#2
You can remove the key cylinder by turning it to the left as far as it will go, and then insert a paper clip end into the small hole on the face of the lock cylinder, and depress the button inside the ignition switch. Pull out the lock cylinder, and look inside the ignition switch for any broken parts. If it doesn't look like anything inside is broken, using a Q tip and a little brake cleaner on the end of the Q tip, clean out the old grease. Then put a little bit of white lithium grease inside the ignition cylinder, and then reinstall the lock cylinder. This should fix your problem, if it was hanging up from poor lubrication. Before you start working on this, disconnect the battery cable, since the key will be removed in the accessory position, and you don't want to drain your battery down. Also, while the lock cylinder is out, you can check for the 4 digit key number that is stamped on the side of all original lock cylinders. If the cylinder has been replaced, there will be no numbers.
#4
Another tip that I found in a old GM tech bulletin was to use unleaded gasoline squirted into the door lock to clean and lubricate them. That tech tip came from a service bulletin dated in the late 1940's. I always thought that unleaded gasoline was a relatively new product. They had unleaded gasoline, and ethanol mixed gasoline in the 1920's, from what I have seen in old gas station pictures.
#5
They used to call the unleaded gasoline white gas. I can't remember the oil company that sold it. It seems my dad had an old (not old then) outboard motor that was supposed to have white gas mixed with 2 cycle oil. White gas was long before unleaded gas in 1975.
#6
White gas is still sold in camping and outfitter stores. It is used in Coleman style stoves and lanterns. It is recommended for cleaning locks and such because it emulsifies most lubricants and then evaporates without leaving residue.
#7
Amoco was the brand name of "white" gas. Amoco Corporation, originally Standard Oil Company (Indiana), ....
(from Wikipedia)
Lead-free gasoline
While most oil companies were switching to leaded gasolines en masse during the mid-to-late 1920s, American Oil chose to continue marketing its premium-grade "Amoco-Gas" (later Amoco Super-Premium) as a lead-free gasoline by using aromatics rather than tetraethyllead to increase octane levels, decades before the environmental movement of the early 1970s led to more stringent auto-emission controls which ultimately mandated the universal phase out of leaded gasoline. The "Amoco" lead-free gasoline was sold at American's stations in the eastern and southern U.S. alongside American Regular gasoline, which was a leaded fuel. Lead-free Amoco was introduced in the Indiana Standard marketing area in 1970.[6] The Red Crown Regular and White Crown Premium (later Gold Crown Super Premium) gasolines marketed by parent company Standard Oil (Indiana) in its prime marketing area in the Midwest before 1961 also contained lead.[
While most oil companies were switching to leaded gasolines en masse during the mid-to-late 1920s, American Oil chose to continue marketing its premium-grade "Amoco-Gas" (later Amoco Super-Premium) as a lead-free gasoline by using aromatics rather than tetraethyllead to increase octane levels, decades before the environmental movement of the early 1970s led to more stringent auto-emission controls which ultimately mandated the universal phase out of leaded gasoline. The "Amoco" lead-free gasoline was sold at American's stations in the eastern and southern U.S. alongside American Regular gasoline, which was a leaded fuel. Lead-free Amoco was introduced in the Indiana Standard marketing area in 1970.[6] The Red Crown Regular and White Crown Premium (later Gold Crown Super Premium) gasolines marketed by parent company Standard Oil (Indiana) in its prime marketing area in the Midwest before 1961 also contained lead.[
#8
If your ignition switch is sticking due to lack in lubrication, I add a drop of 3 in 1 oil on the key and slide it into the lock with the battery disconnected and then turn it to all the different positions. Repeat again until you get smooth operation. Same goes for door and trunk locks.
#10
Lithium grease is no good as it will eventually separate and then you get rust. A good machine oil should do the trick. I'm unfamiliar with that year, where are the springs (in the cylinder or the housing)?
#12
Oil or any petroleum product is going to collect dust in the switch and the small tumblers and make it worse. Get a tube of graphite and shoot some down in the switch with the key out. It would be a good idea to clean it first.
Junkman, thanks for the info on Amoco and their white gas.
Junkman, thanks for the info on Amoco and their white gas.
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goldie442
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August 21st, 2015 11:01 AM