zeeke

Ladies & Gentlemen, first I want to thank all of you that give input on a regular basis to this site. I have read the questions asked and have asked a few which were answered. Without the information provided here there would be a lot more stress and disappointment with my projects. The info is invaluable. One thing I learned from this site is 350 & 455 cross member plates are not the same. Yep I would have found that out the hard way.

Now for my repeat question: Motor Mounts for the 350 & 455 are the same correct? I can't remember where I bought then from but I'm positive I told them they were for a 455. Today I spent the day taking the 350 out of the Cutlass and attempted to put the 455 in. Ran out of light and gas. That's bound to happen in a 14 hour day working by yourself. The 455 is missing lining up with the cross member plates by about an inch high on the left side. I know the cross member plates are correct for a 455 because I removed them from the 71' convertible 442 chassis where the motor came from. I also marked the left mount plate even though I couldn't notice a difference. The car also has the TH400 from the 442 behind the 455. Chassis on the 71' convertible Cutlass is also a boxed chassis correct for a convertible. All in all still had a great day. Any advise, as always, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance again.

2blu442

Hi Zeeke
Joe put together this sticky on motor mounts. Its pretty complete, and should answer your question. But if there's still confusion come back and let us know.

John

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tion-list.html

joe_padavano

I'm not sure what "crossmember plates" you mean. Are you talking about the frame pads for the motor mounts? If so, read the sticky I wrote as posted above.

zeeke

Ok Gents got it. thank you. I'll let you know how I make out.

joe_padavano

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tion-list.html

As we've discussed on numerous occasions, the motor mounts need to match the frame mounts, NOT the block. Every 1964-1990 Olds V8 block has the same motor mount bolt holes in the same location relative to the crank centerline. The frame mounts you now have require 2328 motor mounts. Your old frame mounts used 2261 motor mounts. Either setup puts the 455 in EXACTLY the same place.

zeeke

Sorry Joe I thought I deleted that. Late night last night early rise this morning and a long day of high angle rope training. Was shot when I got home. I took a second look and saw the number for the motor mounts. I ordered another set from Fusick. They said Friday, I hope they make it here by then or the car will be laid up for weeks if it doesn't get done Saturday. I centered the motor today & now they are both off by 1/2". Thanks again. I'll let you know as soon as I land it properly.

joe_padavano

What does that mean, exactly? Better yet, post some photos of the frame pads and mounts, preferably from the underside. Also, DO NOT EVER order Olds motor mounts by application - nearly every vendor, including Fusick, has errors in their applications lists. Just use part numbers. Also, FYI, Fusick sells exactly the same Anchor/Pioneer motor mounts that RockAuto sells. They even come in the same boxes. Fusick just charges about ten times as much for the parts.

zeeke

Ok Joe, here's the photos you requested. I cancelled the Fusick order today for $60 bucks shipped and ordered a set from Rock Auto $12 shipped. Thanks for saving me $40. When I saw 2328 I assumed, yea I know about assumed, that was an AC delco number. They should be here Friday.
First one is front right side, second is top right side and last is front left side. It was to late to fire up the power washer to clean the grease off. I'll do it when I put the 350 back in.

Why??? because the motor has been sitting for a year since the rebuild, it's #'s matching to the 442 and the 350 leaks oil from everywhere. Also need to drill out the top exhaust manifold bolt on each side of the 350 to eliminate the CO issue when the top is up due to a wicked exhaust leak. Yea floor boards need to be done as well.

Thaks again.

joe_padavano

To be honest, that doesn't look particularly unusual. Leave the bolts from the mounts to the block loose. Lift the motor and insert one of the cross bolts. Now wiggle things around to get the other one in. Don't worry about the nuts yet. Lower the motor and tighten the bolts to the block. Now install the nuts and tighten the cross bolts.

zeeke

Ok, I'll give it a shot right now Joe. I'll be back hopefully soon.

zeeke

You the man Joe, thank you. Now I'm going to torture myself & see if I can get the Hedman headers I got from D A D a few months back in that tight space. If not I'll have to get new manifolds or the cracks in the old ones fixed.

zeeke

Gave up on the headers. Way to much work by myself. I might use them on the 442. It's still off the chassis. For now I'll use my cracked manifolds and see how bad the hairline cracks leak.

joe_padavano

You have to raise the engine to get the headers in. Also, you need to remove the oil filter adapter, and probably the steering shaft. This is not difficult, just time consuming.

zeeke

I saw that yesterday, Joe. Now's the time to do it but I want to get the car going and once I saw what it entailed I decided to put it off. Hoping to have this engine running by Saturday night but I only have time to work on it a few hours a night, then all day Saturday. I have a road trip set in a few weeks to RI & I'm set on taking the Cutlass, but I want to have time to work out all the kinks. I'm going to go out and finish bolting the Trans, torque converter and all the other essentials that don't interfere with the exhaust. If all works out I'll do them Saturday morning, if not the manifolds will go on for now.

zeeke

Gentlemen Thank you again. Tok some time to get it sorted out but the 455 was finally fired up yesterday since the rebuild a year ago and being dormant for the last 28 years. It runs like a dream. I can not believe how smooth it runs, which means the 350 rans like crap. Compression was 150 + in every cylinder but 4 which hit about 135. Carb was a 2 barrel from a 68 pieced together by the previous owner to make it run. My friend has one of those engine dolly you gents have to test the motor. His is just a dolly but when I'm done with it, it will be an engine testing dolly. Going to grab the kids and do an evening cruise.